Do you still have this?xharobikeslifex wrote:If your looking for one i have one for sale $47 for a Greddy Full-Auto Timer
I've got all the invoices tacked on a bulletin board and I just need to go back and add them all up...just a little scared to do so but I will post the final total.Xxnissan_s13xX wrote:This SR is really looking good my friend
As an off the wall guestimate, how much do you think its cost you for everything from the liquid RTV to just parts?..not including the motor
Because im considering doing the same to my newly bought SR and would probly be following your write up pretty closely ha
will this work on s-13 temp sending (gauge on the cluster not to the ecu )hole or is there a different size that i need ...positron_ wrote:I placed the water temp sensor in today. I won't go over putting on the S14 water neck as I put the S13 neck on earlier in the thread and it's the same.Pipe reducer bushing Part# 100460 1/4" male to 1/8' femaleThe two adapters, 3/8" and 1/2", do not fit the water neck bung.This new adapter is a perfect fit.When threaded into the adapter fully...the temp sensor will come through the hole in the center so it's in the water neck with the fluids.Use a 16mm socket to seat the adapter...the instructions say to put some teflon tape on the pipe threads.Use a 12mm wrench to tighten the sensor into the adapter and done...don't forget the teflon tape here also.
You should run premium on the SR, so stick with 93. As for the nearly year old gas, even if you used Stabil, at a year old, I'd drain and clean the tank and start with fresh gas.positron_ wrote:Couple questions on gasoline for this engine. Been searching old threads but I couldn't find it. What type of gas do I run on this engine? Also, the car has been sitting up since I yanked the engine back in November so do I need to do anything with the gas that's left in it? I believe it still has less than half a tank of 93 left in it.
That piece looks too large, considering the gauge temp sensor is pretty small. Also, only a factory calibrated sensor (or an aftermarket one calibrated to the factory gauge) will work with the factory temp gauge. If you just want to use the hole for an aftermarket gauge and sensor and leave the factory gauge dead, don't do that. Leave the factory gauge working and just drill and tap for the aftermarket gauge sensor on the upper or lower water neck, or buy and adapter for one of the hoses.pauliedrft wrote:
will this work on s-13 temp sending (gauge on the cluster not to the ecu )hole or is there a different size that i need ...
my temp gauge on my cluster in the dash has been dead since i bought the car ,so i have the after market gauge and sending unit that's y im trying to use the gauge sending unit hole so i don't have to start slicing the coolant lines ...homeslicej2 wrote:You should run premium on the SR, so stick with 93. As for the nearly year old gas, even if you used Stabil, at a year old, I'd drain and clean the tank and start with fresh gas.
That piece looks too large, considering the gauge temp sensor is pretty small. Also, only a factory calibrated sensor (or an aftermarket one calibrated to the factory gauge) will work with the factory temp gauge. If you just want to use the hole for an aftermarket gauge and sensor and leave the factory gauge dead, don't do that. Leave the factory gauge working and just drill and tap for the aftermarket gauge sensor on the upper or lower water neck, or buy and adapter for one of the hoses.
yes sirpositron_ wrote:Do you still have this?
The thread on the oem sending unit is 1/8 npt I beleive. If replacing your oem sending unit didn't fix your temp gauge problem then just get an adapter for your aftermarket sending unit/gauge combination. Chances are your aftermarket sending unit is either 1/8npt or 1/4npt as we saw earlier with the autometer sending unit (1/4 npt).pauliedrft wrote:
my temp gauge on my cluster in the dash has been dead since i bought the car ,so i have the after market gauge and sending unit that's y im trying to use the gauge sending unit hole so i don't have to start slicing the coolant lines ...
west covina nissanhttp://www.westcovinanissan.com/Yulaw wrote:would you happen to know the bolt sizes for the stock coil pack cover and where I could get them?
I beleive the size for the coil mounts is m6x1.0 see if the the cover screw holes are the same size, they probably are.Yulaw wrote:Awesome. One of the nicest SR's I have seen. Can't wait to see a startup vid. btw, would you happen to know the bolt sizes for the stock coil pack cover and where I could get them?
you can rebuild SR starters? I'll have to take pictures of mine because it's literally in pieces from the dumba$$es at the checker here in Montana who told me they could rebuild any starter and apologized as they refunded me my money and handed me a shopping bag full of parts that once was my starter. Can I email you some pictures of the debacle and maybe you can help? thanksKalypso123 wrote:YEAH!!! woah, honestly I didnt expect it so soon.
as long as your body harness has no shorts,and your starter works it will turn over.
I can also rebuild SR starters if you need a replacement.
yeah i know i have a glow shift gauge and temp sensor , but the threads on the water neck on my ka24de is metric . the 1/8npt (glowshift gauge unit) is a little smaller than the the water neck. I decided im going to buy the buddy club 34mm adapter to go in line with my radiator hose .... but i don't know if i should put it on top or the bottom hose ... (i would think the top because that temp will show how hot the coolant is coming out of the motor ?????)thanks for the help thoughenterpricorp wrote:
The thread on the oem sending unit is 1/8 npt I beleive. If replacing your oem sending unit didn't fix your temp gauge problem then just get an adapter for your aftermarket sending unit/gauge combination. Chances are your aftermarket sending unit is either 1/8npt or 1/4npt as we saw earlier with the autometer sending unit (1/4 npt).
Also like someone mentioned earlier you cannot mix and match gauges and sending units unless they are from the same model of gauge/sending unit. The (electrical) resistance curve of the sending unit will dictate what is displayed on the gauge.
the bay is flat or satin black and I'm sure that the wiring isn't done. What's wrong with it? I know it it's not the shiniest but it looks pretty clean to me. I've seen much worse looking bays in s13's that's for sure. My bay is Satin black and looks fine. Hides oil and grease messes too.eidk wrote:I don't want to sound negative. But that motor is so clean and sexy. But that would be the exact opposite of that engine bay. Going to stay that way?
This is an SR build thread, but the KA sensor is m12x1.25. No one that is easy to find stocks an adapter because just about everyone has looked, but there is a British website that stocks them although overpriced. For the 20 dollar price tag on the buddy club adapter it wouldn't be a bad way to go. If you didn't want the extra clutter you could see if your gauge manufacturer carries a sending unit with the correct thread pattern. I'm about to break out a few of these damn adapters, maybe it would make some people happy, who knows.pauliedrft wrote:And a beautiful motor sorry for the thread jack ....
yeah i know i have a glow shift gauge and temp sensor , but the threads on the water neck on my ka24de is metric . the 1/8npt (glowshift gauge unit) is a little smaller than the the water neck. I decided im going to buy the buddy club 34mm adapter to go in line with my radiator hose .... but i don't know if i should put it on top or the bottom hose ... (i would think the top because that temp will show how hot the coolant is coming out of the motor ?????)thanks for the help though
Enjuku seems to have the best deal on the O2 sensor adapters, if you can catch them near a holiday then you can get free shipping too!240sxHitman wrote:Where did you get your O2 sensor adaptor from?
kentuckyslider zerothread?id=378374 hooked me up with the sizes for the T. -12AN hose and -12 hose fittings fits perfectly on the 15mm T on the valve cover. I found that the 3ft. hose is the perfect size for both sides of the T. And thanks for the patience and the comments everyone!!!240life wrote:looks nice, where did you get the braided oil can lines?