My S13 SR20DET Prep

[Justin35ll]

I love this thread. Awesome build and it's going to be really helpful for me when I need to start putting my motor back together

[datsun2401972]

Uber clean engine Posi!@# Congrats on gettin her stabbed!

I will definately be using your thread for my build...

[positron1]

I got a filter in last week.

Tools needed:Phillipshead screwdriver10mm wrench

Apexi Power IntakePlace your gasket on the filter...and use a screwdriver to mount this thing on.You will need a wrench for one or two bolts because you can't get a screwdriver on the bolt head.Next, take your MAF.Bolt it up.Take your Intake pipe.I'm not using the stock recirc valve/BOV so I need to plug up this port. You can use a 2liter bottle cap.I got the HKS hotpipe and it came with plugs for the stock sidemount...so I used one of them instead.Put the intake pipe on, screw it together and you're finished. I can't wait to put this on tomorrow!

[positron1]

Still trying to finish up this swap. I put my driveshaft in a couple of nights ago at like 3 in the morning with a flood light, I was bored...that was fun! Today it was pleasant out so I put my clutch master to slave line in and pulled out the kinked up line, put my starter on and tried to put my radiator in. I ran into a problem with fitment, I had to shave some off the sides in order to get past the battery tray and the ledge of the engine compartment on the other side. I also found out that I'm missing some rubber bushings that go on the bottom of the rad where the posts sit in the holes on the frame, I'm gonna have to get to a junkyard or order a new set because it throws off the rubber bushings on the top...it leaves some uneeded slack between the rad brackets and the top of the rad definitely not cool. I put my lower engine harness in and connected the various grounds in the engine bay. I also connected the fuel lines and radiator hoses. It started to get dark on me but I managed to get my engine harness layed out, connected and ran through the firewall. I also put the ECU in place. I mounted the sidemount intercooler last week before we put the engine in and found that the intercooler ducting sticks out of the hole in the bumper. The only reason I can think of to explain this is that I have the non-turbo bumper so I'm gonna have to take my dremel and shave maybe an inch off that duct to keep it from sticking through the bumper. Also, can anyone tell me how to get those nuts off the throttle cable so I can run it through the SR throttle cable bracket. The SR bracket is not like the KA bracket which allows you to just slide off the cable. The SR has a circular bushing of some type that looks like you have to run the cable through it....?????

[enterpricorp]

. Also, can anyone tell me how to get those nuts off the throttle cable so I can run it through the SR throttle cable bracket. The SR bracket is not like the KA bracket which allows you to just slide off the cable. The SR has a circular bushing of some type that looks like you have to run the cable through it....?????

Could you post a picture? Don't know if the cable I'm looking at the is the same, but I just take the adjusting lock nut off the front of the cable and pull the threaded portion out and slide the inner cable out the top of the bracket. If yours isn't set up like this you could always slot the bracket.

[I WE TODD ED]

Also, can anyone tell me how to get those nuts off the throttle cable so I can run it through the SR throttle cable bracket. The SR bracket is not like the KA bracket which allows you to just slide off the cable. The SR has a circular bushing of some type that looks like you have to run the cable through it....?????

I'm pretty sure that all you have to do is loosen the two nuts on both sides of the bracket and then pull the cable straight up out of the bracket. But then again, I did this with my KA throttle cable. My SR didnt come with a throttle cable left in the bracket.

[mRodiek]

dude your engine looks EFFIN GORGEOUS!!!!im in love! lol keep up the good work man

im curious though, how much did you pay total for your engine from JSA?

[enterpricorp]

The prices are on their website..

[positron1]

Could you post a picture? Don't know if the cable I'm looking at the is the same, but I just take the adjusting lock nut off the front of the cable and pull the threaded portion out and slide the inner cable out the top of the bracket. If yours isn't set up like this you could always slot the bracket.

I'll get a pic of it tomorrow. But yeah fellas, that's all I remember doing with the KA was just loosening the nuts and sliding it off the bracket but the SR has that thing in it's bracket. It almost looks like that brass colored clutch pilot bushing but not quite as long. It comes off because I took it off when I sent that bracket off with some other parts that I powdercoated. I put that thing back on like I found it when I got the bracket back. There was even a rubber bushing on the bracket for that thing.

dude your engine looks EFFIN GORGEOUS!!!!im in love! lol keep up the good work manim curious though, how much did you pay total for your engine from JSA?

Thanks!

[homeslicej2]

You can get new lower rad. support feet from FRsport. They are $9 a pop, but it's a lot less time and hassle than going to the junkyard, finding an s13, removing the rad, and getting the old feet out.

http://www.frsport.com/Genuine....html

[positron1]

Exactly what I needed! Thanks!

[TheBigS_42]

Thats why my radiator was sitting low! O well I made some simple flat brackets for it so its not goin anywhere now but now I know.

Ps the engine looks amazing! Ive been following your build since I joined a few months ago and it has been a great aid to my own SR swap.

[hbpignosePA]

just read all 14 pages and i must say this should be stickied... you go over things so simple that everyone seems to have questions about and you are very thorough in your write ups. engine is sick, and you obviously know how to do things right

i guess i realize now i need to leave 240 gen to find any competent write ups and real tech/build threads

will definately help me when i do my swap

[duffman1278]

I agree with making this a sticky, except just remove all the reply's posted and just put all the write ups in order.

So whats next on your list?

[positron1]

Thanks guys! Next up is the downpipe, it came in yesterday and I put it on at like 2 in the AM. I just pulled the sidemount so I can take my dremel, clean up the edges of the hole that I cut, line it with rubber and I'm also going to shave like a inch or so off that sidemount duct so it won't stick out of the non-turbo bumper and so I can put that vent cover back in. I'm gonna put the intercooler back on later today, put my intercooler piping in and then my boost controller and gauges. Tomorrow I'll put my fluids in, get a battery and fire it up so wish me luck!

[positron1]

My downpipe came in.

I had a downpipe that I wrapped in exhaust wrap and sprayed with silicon but I sold it in favor of one with the flex section in it.Flex joint.

I also put a new shifter bushing on my shifter which apparently didn't have one on it to begin with. I hadn't noticed that when I removed it months ago.OEM shifter bushing part#: 32861-H7301 Place it on the end and one good pop with a hammer and it's on snug.

[MastaYu]

Very nice

[I WE TODD ED]

[QUOTE=positron_]My downpipe came in.

QUOTE]

Nice downpipe. I got the same one for the same reason (flex joint). When I installed mine, I had like a 1.5" gap between the bracket on the dp and the bracket on the transmission mount. I hope you don't have the same problem. I filled the gap with pieces of rubber hose. No big deal just annoying.

[TheBigS_42]

Nice downpipe. I got the same one for the same reason (flex joint). When I installed mine, I had like a 1.5" gap between the bracket on the dp and the bracket on the transmission mount. I hope you don't have the same problem. I filled the gap with pieces of rubber hose. No big deal just annoying.

I also have the same downpipe and had the same gap problem, however my gap was only about 0.75". So I just put the bolts in and tightened them until the two pieces met.

[I WE TODD ED]

I also have the same downpipe and had the same gap problem, however my gap was only about 0.75". So I just put the bolts in and tightened them until the two pieces met.

That's weird, I thought mine was just a fluke. JVT Racing, or whatever the company is called, should really fix that.

[TheBigS_42]

O in that case maybe I dont have the same one haha. Mine is Megan Racing. So maybe its a common problem?

[enterpricorp]

They're probably all made by the same firm, some mass production outfit over in China. You get what you pay for and stuff like this downpipe and those turbo manifolds are great, but you probably ought to spend some time to make it fit better.

Some steel bushings would fix the problem nicely.

[positron1]

Does anyone know if the little metal clip that holds the MAF plug onto the MAF sensor is the same on the SR as the KA because I'm missing one and went to the junkyard today and there weren't any. I snagged one off a Stanza but it's too small. I've got it on the MAF but it does not fit well.

[duffman1278]

I lost mine too, just get a paper clip and wrap it around then twist the ends of it and your done. Just make sure to push the sides in so that the paper clip sits inside the plastic piece and the MAF won't fall.

[positron1]

Cool man, thanks!

[positron1]

Over the last couple of days I installed the driveshaft, downpipe, P/S stuff, ran the vac/fuel lines, intercooler piping, shifter and the radiator. Yesterday I installed the gauge bezel and boost controller but did not connect the wires for power.This morning I filled the fluids and got a new battery. I had a friend who is a guru at engine swaps come down from Tuscaloosa and look over things. He adjusted the intercooler piping and I had the ground wire for my starter on the block, don't do this or it will eat your battery terminals up. After he checked some other things we connected the battery and turned the key and nothing happened...there wasn't a click for the starter or anything. Turns out that there was a wire running along the back of the firewall that the previous owner who did a auto to manual swap ran from the ignition to the starter, basically a starter wire. He ran this wire to the fuse block and connected it to one of the big plugs and...SHE CRANKED UP AND STARTED ON THE FIRST TRY!!!! He connected power to my guages and we got the oil pressure up to 50 PSI, I have to look up the oil pressure numbers on this engine and see where I'm at as I'm not sure about them at the moment.There are still some bugs that I have to fix like the throttle cable seems to be to short, when connected to the throttle pulley it won't go full rotation so it would rev up if it was connected. I have to adjust my alternator and P/S belts...one of them is squeaking and you can see them wobble because they are not tight! I WAS EXTREMELY WORRIED THAT MY TIMING WOULD BE OFF AFTER I BROKE THAT CAS AND HAD TO REPLACE IT BUT I FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE TO THE LETTER FOR TDC(TOP DEAD CENTER) AND LINED UP THE MARKS ON THE CAS SHAFT AND MY TIMING SEEMS DEAD ON SO FAR!!!!THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT READ THIS THREAD AND THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT HELPED OUT WITH INFORMATION, TIPS AND COMMENTS!

NICO RULES!
Modified by positron_ at 8:32 AM 11/16/2008

[240sxHitman]

THATS WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT!!!!! Congrats bruh welcome to the club

[J240sx]

I would also like to congratulate you on a job well done. Hopefully with all of the information i have learned in your thread I will be able to start up my own engine in a couple of days.

[Kalypso]

...

[positron1]

Thanks for the G.I.F! WOW!!!! I can't take my eyes off this one!
Modified by positron_ at 8:34 AM 11/16/2008