My S13 SR20DET Prep

[positron1]

I recieved my O2 sensor this morning.

Tools needed:17mm wrenchO2 sensor socketSocket wrench

OEM "skinny type" O2 sensor part#: 22690-50F00.Old sensor vs. new sensorThe sensor goes here in the turbo outlet.Remove the sensor bung from the adapter.Place the sensor and screw on tight.I used a 17mm wrench to tighten. You'll need a O2 sensor socket to tighten to spec with your torque wrench. It gets torqued to 30-44 ft.lbs.Complete. I am officially done with the exhaust and the intake sides of the block...as far as I know.

[homeslicej2]

Question, would it be better to have a oil temp or a water temp gauge?

water temp. the stocker is cold, normal, screwed. If this is just going to be a street car with around normal hp (since you're keeping the T25), you should not need to worry about oil temps. It would be good to have both, but for a basic set-up, you need boost/vacuum, water temp, and oil pressure IMO.

[positron1]

Thanks for the headsup on that. I have a boost gauge, sold the air/fuel gauge, I'm watching a oil pressure gauge and now I'll get a water temp instead of the oil temp.

[positron1]

Got a boost controller in today.Greddy Profec B-Spec II

Now I just have to figure out the vac line setup.

[positron1]

Got my wire harness back from Wiring Specialties. I did the headlights for the conversion and the digital climate but this was out of my league so I sent it off.Lower engine harness.Engine harness...everything appears intact like the diagram below.

[Kalypso]

Question, would it be better to have a oil temp or a water temp gauge?

its common for people to use both

[positron1]

I managed to track down yet another P/S pump adjuster bracket...got one from a forum member.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension13mm socket

This bracket appears to be the one that I need so I removed the one that I already had on...and as you can see they are slightly different. I think that while I had all those brackets laying around and selling them that I switched them by mistake. The top bracket I believe is a SR HICAS adjuster bracket while the bottom one is a SR non-HICAS adjuster bracket.Use a 13mm socket to mount the adjuster bracket on the P/S pump bracket. This is indeed the correct adjuster bracket, the two line up perfectly!Install the hardware and this is finally complete.I just need to put my belts on.

[positron1]

I decided to replace my stock spark plug cover with an ignition plate.

Tools needed:Wire cuttersAllen wrenchesRazor

I picked up this ignition plate from FRSport. They state the functunality to be as follows "It helps improve the grounding to your ignition coilpack by grounding the engine's coil packs to the chassis. Doing this will help improve cooling for the coil packs that usually overheat with stock spark plug covers.".....uh whatever.First... I need to put my coil packs back in place...like so.Take the four large spacers provided with the plate and place them on the four mounting points on the coil packs.Take the plate...and place it over the coil packs.Next, take the four long M6 bolts and put a washer and the smaller spacer on them.Carefully thread the bolts in the valve cover until tight.Use a allen wrench(don't know what size) to tighten the plate down.Next you need to install the Earth wires and Earth terminal..."Earth" they call them........them copper wires man don't get fancy!The provided Earth wire came with a terminal ring on both ends which is strange since you obviously have to remove one of them in order to put the Earth terminal on the Earth wire. Start by using one of the allen wrenches to back out this port to give some room for the wire to slide into the terminal.Take the wire and use a razor to cut back some of the cover...and use a pair of wire cutters to remove the ring terminal.Insert the wire into the Earth terminal and tighten the fitting with the allen wrench.Take the left over hardware...and use it to bolt the Earth wire to the ignition plate here.Use a allen wrench to tighten.This is completed.The Earth wire is to be connected to the ground or - on the battery. Sidenote, this wire does not look like it's going to be long enough to make it to the battery but we'll see.

[positron1]

"Earth" is a different term for "ground" I just learned...shows you how much I know yes?!

[duffman1278]

Drop this engine in already!! lol I'm dying to see this run.

[Kalypso]

real clean,

Im realizing since im somewhat cheap, that I could just as easily make a grounding plate just like that.

it was a good choice.

[chinoS13]

i respect the extent of your build keep it up you inspire many

[positron1]

i respect the extent of your build keep it up you inspire many

Thanks. Question, are turbo timers necessary. I've been talking to some people and some say yay and some say nay. If you don't use one, how long would you have to let your car idle before you shut it off?

[xharobikeslifex]

Thanks. Question, are turbo timers necessary. I've been talking to some people and some say yay and some say nay. If you don't use one, how long would you have to let your car idle before you shut it off?

The basic function of a turbo timer is to allow the vehicle to idle the engine for a timed period, with the ignition key removed. This allows the engine oil and turbo center cartridge to cool down and prevent internal turbo damage

I have mine set on 50 sec which may be to long but i wanted to be on the safe side

And yes i think it is nessary just because we all know your not going to sit in your car for about a minute to shut off your car everytime you stop at a place

If your looking for one i have one for sale $47 for a Greddy Full-Auto Timer

[positron1]

Another turbo timer question, when you hook these up can you just plug in the optional harness, wire the power/ground and go or do you have to do the ebrake and speed sensor thing too? If possible I want to avoid that ebrake thing and just use the unit for it's basic function.

[xharobikeslifex]

if

Another turbo timer question, when you hook these up can you just plug in the optional harness, wire the power/ground and go or do you have to do the ebrake and speed sensor thing too? If possible I want to avoid that ebrake thing and just use the unit for it's basic function.

speed signal safty feature is where when u try to move the vehicle as its counting down then the turbo timer and engine turn off immediately

parking brake safty feature is where when your car has it's e-brake up and the vehicle is in neutral then once the e-brake is let down when the timer is doing it's count down both the engine and timer should shut off immediately

both safty features to prevent theft while your turbo timer is doing it's count down

so then if you want your vehicle to get stolen then yes it's a must as well

and as for the plug and play thats only if u buy the adaptor but me i just simply read the wiring diagram and spliced it onto which ever wire but if you don't want to do that then u can also go to phase 2 and get it for like 30 bucks or less

Modified by xharobikeslifex at 10:26 PM 9/30/2008
Modified by xharobikeslifex at 10:36 PM 9/30/2008

[duffman1278]

The conversion harness iirc was only setup to install the turbo timer, you still had to wire up the ebrake because the conversion harness only has the plugs for the main harness off the TT. I usually just sit in my car for about 45 sec lol cause I'm a loser haha but I'm going to get one to be on the safe side, and save me time.

[xharobikeslifex]

The conversion harness iirc was only setup to install the turbo timer, you still had to wire up the ebrake because the conversion harness only has the plugs for the main harness off the TT. I usually just sit in my car for about 45 sec lol cause I'm a loser haha but I'm going to get one to be on the safe side, and save me time.

haha FTW!

[positron1]

I got my other two gauges in today.I deciced to drop the air fuel and oil temperature gauges for a water temp gauge. I looked up the many different ways people were hooking up these gauges and went for what seemed like the two easiet ways.

1. The Blitz upper radiator hose with the temp sensor port in it.Blitz radiator hose...drawback, this one hose is $100 so I chose the latter...2.A S14 water outlet/neck part#: 11060-69F01 and is half the price of the Blitz hose.The difference between the S13 water outlet and the S14 water outlet is the bung that is in the S14 water outlet. It can be used for another water line source, water temp fitting, etc.I decided to use it for the water temp sensor but I ran into a little problem...The temp sensor included with the gauge comes with a temp sender(1/8 NPT) two adapters(3/8'' NPT & a 1/2" NPT) unfortunately neither one of these adapters fit the bung on the water outlet. So I checked the thread pitch on the bung, which is M12x1.5, and found this...An adapter for electric temperature or pressure gauges 1/8" NPT to M12x1.5. None of the local parts stores had it in stock so I have to order and wait.

TO BE CONTINUED... *EDIT-THE THREAD PITCH ON THE S14 WATERNECK IS 1/4" so you will need an adapter 1/8" to 1/4" for your sensor.

Modified by positron_ at 4:20 AM 10/27/2008
Modified by positron_ at 4:21 AM 10/27/2008

[Team_Undisputed]

hey positron_ i know this is off topic but do you have a diagram on the order to take off the exhaust manifold bolts?? im in the process of taking it off for a gasket change so any help would be nice!

[positron1]

I don't have a diagram but it's on page 86 section EM-49 of the S14 factory service manual.

[240life]

very nice documentation in this thread people will be able to use this as a reference and calm some of there nerves about the swap

[positron1]

very nice documentation in this thread people will be able to use this as a reference and calm some of there nerves about the swap

Thanks!

[positron1]

I was reading some threads the other day and came across some info on hoses..."When the SR is out of the clip and sitting on an engine stand, take the time to replace every single rubber hose and belt on there. Rubber has a lifespan of about 5 years under perfect conditions. Less if it's out in the elements. Sometimes a hose or a belt may look perfect, but the rubber coating is just cosmetic. The rubber makes it look good, like dressing. The weaves under the rubber is what gives the belt strength and structural integrity. Usually SRs has been sitting in a yard somewhere for some time. So take the time to replace all the rubber parts."

After reading that I remembered that I hadn't replaced the coolant/water lines under the intake manifold so I took it back off and swapped them out.

Tools needed: Socket wrenchSocket extension13mm socketCutter/knifeFlathead screwdriver

Better do it now rather than later.13mm socket takes two bolts off here and one bolt on the back of the block...and you can take the airpipe off. You'll probably have to cut the old hoses in order to completely get it off...mine were on tight.I went to the local AutoZone and tried to get some hoses as close to what I removed as possible.For the hose coming off the thermometer housing I got this one. Part#: 4427For the larger coolant/water line. Part#: 4374For the smaller coolant/water line. Part#: 4427Hoses installed with some different clamps, I hate those OEM clamps. Bolt the air pipe back on to the block with the three bolts that you removed earlier. No torque specs listed for this in the FSM.

[240sxHitman]

yo man the motor is coming out to look great but like someone else said get this motor dropped in already lol.

[exhsturbine]

anything new positron? im anxiously waiting!

[Kalypso]

yo man the motor is coming out to look great but like someone else said get this motor dropped in already lol.

don't rush him

[enterpricorp]

Quote »(codyace)2 other things:

That torque stick you have is not accurate, get a click style

That spark plug gapper isn't very accurate either. Now on a 300ish hp car it may not matter, but your best bet is to buy a valve adjustment tool, and to use that[/quote]This information is not correct.

A dial type torque wrench is the most accurate analog type produced at +/-1%, with a click type being some of the most inaccurate wrenches produced at +/-5-20%. Not only that, your click or micrometer type torque wrench will not read true if it has not been stored correctly (reset to 0) as this will degrade the spring that controls the applied torque. I'd save your money and stay with the dial type for critical applications like engine rotating assemblies. Click types are fine for suspension components and others with high torque specs.

I imagine what cody means, by "valve adjustment tool" is a set of feeler gauges. Coin type gap gauges will give you +/- .0005 accuracy on your gap with most spark plug gap specifications having a .004 range you'll be fine.

Excellent write-up positron, found it while lookin for heater hose part #'s(thanks). I normally weld sensor bungs into my aluminum coolant pipes for that clean oem look, glad to do it for anyone doin the swap.


Modified by enterpricorp at 8:59 PM 10/12/2008

[Sleeping240]

WOW 9 months.. that is a long time.. very nice engine man..

[supreamS14]

I imagine what cody means, by "valve adjustment tool" is a set of feeler gauges.

Feeler gauges will work to help shim solid lifter's.

This it the type of tool you need to properly shim the stock hydraulic lifters. \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ I'm still looking for tool # : KV10115700