My S13 SR20DET Prep

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enterpricorp
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Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:57 am
Car: S14

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supreamS14 wrote: Feeler gauges will work to help shim solid lifter's.

This it the type of tool you need to properly shim the stock hydraulic lifters. \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/

I'm still looking for tool # : KV10115700
Yeah, you use a dial indicator set hydraulic lifter preload, but we were talking about gapping spark plugs. It's always a good idea to check your lifter preload to the FSM if you are changing or replacing any valvetrain components. Stock stuff will be fine.

P.S. Any Suitable dial indicator will work in place of of the indicator setup you pictured as long as you have the provisions to mount it to the cylinder head and have a long enough extension for the spindle.
Modified by enterpricorp at 3:10 PM 10/13/2008


enterpricorp
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Car: S14

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positron_ wrote:I decided to see how difficult it would be to replace the gaskets on my transmission while I had the chance so I removed some parts to check the condition of the gaskets.

and the front cover assembly comes off.The seals look fine but if I do decide to replace them does anyone know how I can get them off because there is no where to grab at them like the other seals. I searched but couldn't come up with anything.

There's also a O-ring on the underside.

PARTS ON THE WAY TO BE CONTINUED......
The seals you couldn't see a way to remove are an integral part of the mainshaft and countershaft bearings on these transmissions. They only shielded/sealed the front of the bearings to reduce noise (barely). When we rebuild these transmissions we use bearings with no seals which lets the oil flow through and around the bearings. You could just take them out. The only seals you need to worry about replacing on these transmissions are the front seal in the front cover and the rear seal in the tail housing.

If you want to remove the bearing seals you can carefully pry it up from the edge with a fine blade or you can just stab the thing with a screwdriver and it will bend and come right out.

Also, that's not an o-ring, it's a shim. These are selected based on clearance between the front cover and bearing to match a specific tolerance when rebuilding the gearbox.

Make sure you use a GL-4 gear oil and not GL-5. I don't want to say all, but almost every store no longer carries GL-4 because GL-5 is the new spec and it's a better lubricant, theoretically. These synchronized transmission have brass synchronizers and the EP additives in the new GL-5 will corrode the metal, make shifts harder/less smooth and lead to reduced synchronizer life. Several companies make a GL-4 suitable for manual gearboxes. Redline, Amsoil, motul, and penzoil (stocked in some stores) off the top of my head, there are more.

If your transmission isn't leaking I wouldn't bother with the gaskets, clean it up and replace the seals if you wish.
Modified by enterpricorp at 6:17 PM 10/13/2008

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supreamS14
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Car: 96 240sx S13-blacktop Sr20deT

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I guess I got HAHA I had to read that a couple times for it to make sense . You seem very knowledgeable enterpricorp. I would like to welcome you to Nico What do you do for a living?

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Sleeping240
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Car: 240sx

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enterpricorp wrote:
What difference does that make? I was reading through the thread TODAY. Find something better to do with your time; I was correcting false information, and the thread starter is probably interested in knowing the facts as well as anyone else reading through it.

Modified by enterpricorp at 7:44 PM 10/13/2008
yeah dude i was just complimenting on his diligence.. but way to jump on someone's case

enterpricorp
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:57 am
Car: S14

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Sleeping240 wrote:
yeah dude i was just complimenting on his diligence.. but way to jump on someone's case
Sorry sleeping 240, I haven't had luck on some of the forums lately and it's hard to tell when someone is busting your balls/being a smartass or otherwise with the keyboard. That's what it seemed your response was to me, guess it wasn't.

Anyways, I thought of a few more things. Someone mentioned the heater hose coupler melting that heavy throttle sells with their hose kit. It looks like that heater hose connector that comes with the kit that heavy throttle sells is white plastic - could be nylon or a regular plumbing coupler which is not suited for heat. The auto parts store can sell you a 5/8x3/4 heater hose connector (made by gates if u go to napa or carquest) that will stand up to the heat. I think there may even be a coupler in those prestone radiator flush kits that may work.

Positron, if you want a flex pipe megan sells a nice bang for the buck downpipe with a flex joint in it (ebay). If you already have a pipe you can purchase a joint and have it welded on or you can use exhaust clamps. Just make sure you buy the correct joint, either weld on or clamp on.

Noticed the ichiba manifold mentioned earlier. It's a copy of the tomei expreme and it's nice, but it can definitely use some port matching. When I bought mine the stud layouts were off on the turbo flange also so I welded them shut and laid out the holes where they should be and drilled and threaded them for studs. This isn't to say they're all off this much, but if they are you could enlarge your tubine housing bolt holes slightly and make due. Everything did line up well though for a China piece. Unless you shell out the bucks you're not going to get those nice tomei/silk road/peak boost pieces. I'll be making my own manifold next time.

Reason I bought the ichiba is because I bought a megan off ebay and the head-side exhaust ports were way off, not just small, but tilted or too low.

The greddy copy intake manifolds are also nice, they have sand cast (Dull color) and diecast (shiny) ones on ebay for cheap. The ports match well, but the fuel rail holes were slightly off which was no big deal. You'll also have to make a bracket for your throttle cable. It was very nice to get rid of that huge *** stock intake plenum/manifold combo that blocked access to everything on the right side of the motor though. I imagine the diecast pieces have better accuracy not too mention a smoother internal finish than the sand cast, but they are about 60 dollars more. I bought the sand cast one and sand blasted the inside of it to knock any casting slag off and then port matched the runners which didn't take much.

Oh, and gates makes an upper radiator hose, but I cannot find the part number anywhere - waiting on a contact to e-mail me back (maybe he has it). Heavy throttle carries the OEM and the Gates piece, but they took the pictures in such a position so that you can definitely not get the part numbers, lol... So if anyone comes across that it would be nice to post it.
Modified by enterpricorp at 11:57 AM 10/14/2008

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positron1
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Hey man thanks for the info and welcome to the forum! I just started buying fluids so that's good to know about the gear oil.

exhsturbine
Posts: 128
Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2008 4:33 pm
Car: 1997 240
Location: Miramar, San Diego, California

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i know i know. off topic from positrons amazing write up. sorry for the short thread jack.
supreamS14 wrote:

This it the type of tool you need to properly shim the stock hydraulic lifters. \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ \/\/\/ I'm still looking for tool # : KV10115700
505-552-0008

i found this number from custom steel on another forum. the post itself is sort of old.http://www.sr20forum.com/custo....html but the number and the business came up in google maps. its here in new mexico.... not too too far from where i live. probably an hour or so. ive never been there. but you might call and ask him if he still makes these tools. website seems to only offer body jewelry soooo i dont know. but if your looking for one still you may call him.end thread jack

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Team_Undisputed
Posts: 191
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Car: 90 240SX (Piggy)

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positron_ wrote: Because of my impatience....I now have two sets of plugs one of which is completely useless to me.BKR6EIX Stock#:6418-stock boost. Heat range=6BKR7EIX-Mild hp. Heat range=7
hey i noticed your running the BKR6EIX spark plugs and i have a question do you think i can run these same spark plugs on my car if i have the basic bolt ons and still running stock boost without problems?

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supreamS14
Posts: 1046
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Car: 96 240sx S13-blacktop Sr20deT

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exhsturbine wrote: but you might call and ask him if he still makes these tools. website seems to only offer body jewelry soooo i dont know. but if your looking for one still you may call him.end thread jack
He can make it for you. I just e-mailed him a week ago.
Team_Undisputed wrote:hey i noticed your running the BKR6EIX spark plugs and i have a question do you think i can run these same spark plugs on my car if i have the basic bolt ons and still running stock boost without problems?
You can run them on stock boost. I would go to a 7 heat range anyway myself. You might 1 day spike or creep 10 psi or more. I have had my waste-gate line break many times and hit 20+ psi

enterpricorp
Posts: 41
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:57 am
Car: S14

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Team_Undisputed wrote:
hey i noticed your running the BKR6EIX spark plugs and i have a question do you think i can run these same spark plugs on my car if i have the basic bolt ons and still running stock boost without problems?
I'd stay with the stock temp range (6) until you start pushing 230-240 hp then go for 7's

Around stock boost the hotter plug, 6, will work best.
Modified by enterpricorp at 1:27 PM 10/16/2008

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positron1
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Eh...that first fitting that I got to adapt the water temp sensor...she no worky so forget about that! This is the one!Pipe reducer bushing Part# 100460 1/4" male to 1/8' female

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positron1
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Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
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Got this to replace my clutch line with. This line goes all the way from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder. It replaces the hardline and the clutch slave line so this would be excellent for those doing a auto to manual swap as this line is cheaper than buying the OEM hardline and slave line setup brand new. Also, the end of my hardline was all kinked up anyway.Clutch slave to master line.

duffman1278
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Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

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Where do you plan on installing the actual brass piece that reads the coolants temperature?

enterpricorp
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Car: S14

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duffman1278 wrote:Where do you plan on installing the actual brass piece that reads the coolants temperature?
The temperature sensor gets installed in the water outlet neck pictured on the bottom of page 12.

enterpricorp
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Car: S14

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positron_ wrote:Eh...that first fitting that I got to adapt the water temp sensor...she no worky so forget about that! This is the one!

Pipe reducer bushing Part# 100460 1/4" male to 1/8' female
I thought the hole on the s14 water neck was m12x1.5? The auto meter 2277 adapter is m12x1.5 male to 1/8 pipe. The new adapter threads into 1/4 pipe?
Modified by enterpricorp at 6:47 PM 10/16/2008

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positron1
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I placed the water temp sensor in today. I won't go over putting on the S14 water neck as I put the S13 neck on earlier in the thread and it's the same.Pipe reducer bushing Part# 100460 1/4" male to 1/8' femaleThe two adapters, 3/8" and 1/2", do not fit the water neck bung.This new adapter is a perfect fit.When threaded into the adapter fully...the temp sensor will come through the hole in the center so it's in the water neck with the fluids.Use a 16mm socket to seat the adapter...the instructions say to put some teflon tape on the pipe threads.Use a 12mm wrench to tighten the sensor into the adapter and done...don't forget the teflon tape here also.


enterpricorp
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Car: S14

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enterpricorp wrote:
I thought the hole on the s14 water neck was m12x1.5? The auto meter 2277 adapter is m12x1.5 male to 1/8 pipe. The new adapter threads into 1/4 pipe?
enterpricorp wrote:
I thought the hole on the s14 water neck was m12x1.5? The auto meter 2277 adapter is m12x1.5 male to 1/8 pipe. The new adapter threads into 1/4 pipe?

Modified by enterpricorp at 6:47 PM 10/16/2008
enterpricorp wrote:
I thought the hole on the s14 water neck was m12x1.5? The auto meter 2277 adapter is m12x1.5 male to 1/8 pipe. The new adapter threads into 1/4 pipe?
Guess the hole in the S14 neck is 1/4npt not the m12x1.5 mentioned earlier? Makes sense. I'll have to pick up some 1/4 weld bungs and start modding the s13 necks.

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positron1
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Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
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I wired up my gauges today, I'm not good at wiring but I did some research and I think I have it figured out but if anyone sees something that I need to change then by all means chime in.

Tools needed:Wire cutters18 gauge wire16-14 female connectors16-14 male connectors16-14 butt connectors16-14 ring terminals

I ditched the A-pillar gauge pod for the A/C vent bezel. I wanted to keep things as OEM as possible and thought about putting the gauges in the glovebox but they really need to be where I can see them at a glance.The three gauges that I chose were BOOST, OIL PRESSURE and WATER TEMP.I first mounted the gauges using the supplied nuts and mounting pod thingy.

Mounted.All three mounted.I started with the BOOST gauge which seems to be relatively simple.Here is the supplied hardware.Take the nylon line, the compression nut, the ferule and the adapter...and screw them together to the point where it's tight and the nylon line is secure and can't be pulled out but do not overtighten!!!Put some teflon tape on the adapter threads and screw it into the BOOST gauge and again do not overtighten!!!The other end of the nylon fitting will go through a hole of your choice in the firewall...and get connected to this T-fitting on the line between the top left port of the throttlebody and the fuel pressure regulator.Next, I moved on to the OIL TEMP gauge. This is the OIL TEMP sender unit.If you have a Greddy oil pan, you can mount the OIL TEMP sender here.If you have a Greddy oil filter relocation kit, you can mount the sender unit here. I chose to use the oil filter.Put some teflon tape on the threads...and insert into the kit.For the wiring of the OIL TEMP gauge, the back of the gauge has three terminals:S-to senderGND-groundI-to 12V ignition switch or other switched 12V source.There are posts for ring terminals or female connectors, I chose the female connectors.As far as how much wire I'm using, I'm just ball parking it. It's easier to take away than to add yes. I cut about 5 ft. for the S-sender and GND-ground.Put a female connector on and crimp.Place it on the S terminal.The other end, on swap day, will get ran through the firewall on the passenger side and get connected here on the OIL TEMP sender unit with a ring terminal.For the GND, put a female connector here...and for the other end, connect a ring terminal. Run the ring terminal through the same spot in the firewall. The instructions say to put the ground near the sender unit so I'll probably bolt it to the shock tower where the alternator and starter grounds are.For I-ignition, I placed a female connector and I'm going to splice the other end in either the radio harness or the cigarette lighter harness for my 12V switched power source.On to the WATER TEMP gauge. It has the same terminals as the OIL TEMP gauge so the wiring is basically the same.Probably excessive but I cut about 8 ft. of wire for the S and GND wires here. Since this sender unit is on the exhaust manifold side of the engine, I'm going to run them in a spot away from the excessive heat. Place a female connector on the S terminal.The wire will go through the firewall on the drivers side of the car. I'm going to run it through the same path as the hood latch cable that runs under the left fender and comes out in the hole near the drivers side fuse block. This path will allow you to avoid the heat coming from the exhaust manifold. Put a ring terminal on and connect here on the WATER TEMP sender unit.For the GND, I put a female connector on the GND terminal and I'nm going to run the wire through the same spot as the S wire. The ground has to be close to the sender unit so I'll use a spot on the radiator support or near the fuse block.For I-ignition, I cut a 2 to 3ft. wire and I'm going to use either the radio harness or the cig lighter harness.Lighting is next, especially if you want to see your gauges at night or if you have those smoked out gauges. I put the male 16-14 connectors on for the 18 gauge wire.Funny thing, the OIL TEMP AND WATER TEMP gauges that I recently purchased came with the bulb sockets but the BOOST gauge that I bought some time ago did not so I had to track down a bulb. The part# is 3211, only thing is this bulb socket doesn't twist and lock in like the others. I'm going to have to put something on the back to keep it from popping off.Take the bulb sockets...and insert them.For the power wiring, I ran three short 3" inch wires together into the one wire. I'm thinking about soldering these instead of using the butt connectors here.I connected them to the white(power) wires of the bulb sockets. The other end of the one wire that these converge on will get spliced to either the radio harness or the cig lighter.For the ground wiring, I connected three small pieces of wire into one...and plugged the black ground wires up.For the other end, I crimped on a ring terminal and will probably use one of the bolts on the shift boot dust cover for ground as this is bare chassis metal.If anyone has any suggestions or changes then please let me know!

Modified by positron_ at 4:58 PM 10/17/2008

Modified by positron_ at 5:01 PM 10/17/2008
Modified by positron_ at 6:53 PM 10/18/2008

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positron1
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enterpricorp wrote:
Guess the hole in the S14 neck is 1/4npt not the m12x1.5 mentioned earlier? Makes sense. I'll have to pick up some 1/4 weld bungs and start modding the s13 necks.
Yeah, I thought that was it but it's just a tad too small.

duffman1278
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To enterpricorp why not just buy the stance water neck adaptor for the SR. 50$ and no modifications needed, its made for the coolant temp.

enterpricorp
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duffman1278 wrote:To enterpricorp why not just buy the stance water neck adaptor for the SR. 50$ and no modifications needed, its made for the coolant temp.
Because we do work like this every day and to use the OEM s13 water neck with no adapters is clean and fits best. I'll do the mod to the motor we have just because I can and if anyone likes it I'll offer the service or maybe pick up some s13 necks so I can offer them off the shelf, ready to go.

Couple different temp senders we can use and they all have different thread. Screw the 50 dollar neck, I'm sure mine will look better

duffman1278
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Forgot to mention. Why not solder the connections positron?

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moyea
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While you have the gauges out, I would order the LED replacement bulbs from Autometer. They will light those gauges a lot better.

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positron1
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duffman1278 wrote:Forgot to mention. Why not solder the connections positron?
I think I'm going to redo and solder for a better connection.
moyea wrote:While you have the gauges out, I would order the LED replacement bulbs from Autometer. They will light those gauges a lot better.
Yeah, I didn't even think about that. I found a set to use...thanks!

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positron1
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The Autometer #3211 bulb socket that I got is the wrong one for this application, the twist and lock bulb sockets are part#3220. You could use the #3211 but you'll have to put something on the back like a strong tape or something to keep it from popping out of the gauge.
Modified by positron_ at 11:27 PM 10/25/2008

Kalypso
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you're really enjoying this aren't you.

im glad I chimed in with a P/S pump

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Team_Undisputed
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positron_ wrote:
hey man if you dont mind me asking, where did you order this bezel from im in need of one asap

duffman1278
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^^^ You can get one off ebay.

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positron1
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positron1
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Kalypso123 wrote:you're really enjoying this aren't you.

im glad I chimed in with a P/S pump
Thanks again!


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