My S13 SR20DET Prep

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

Email sent!


User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

Anyone know the torque specs for the PS and alternator pullies, I found one thread but I'm trying to confirm this. It was listed as 50ftlbs. and 101ftlbs. for them...is this it?

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

I received a hotpipe/bov combo today.HKS hotpipe.HKS SuperSequential Blow-off Valve.

I checked around and most of the hotpipes that I came across had a different pipe for the frontmount and the sidemount intercoolers. This HKS hotpipe can be used for both so if I ever decide to upgrade to a frontmount then I won't have to buy another hotpipe.

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

I got a relocation kit in today.

Tools needed:Crescent wrenchSocket wrench11mm socket13mm socketFlathead screwdriverAllen wrench

Greddy oil filter relocation kitHardware.Fittings. I started with with the oil filter side of the kit.Use a allen wrench to plug up the two small ports and a 13 mm socket wrench for the larger port. I assume that these ports are used for a oil cooler kit and oil sensor(temp/pressure). There's also some ports on the other part of the kit.Take this nozzle and put on one of the gaskets.Install it in the kit like so.Take this nozzle and a gasket.

Screw the nozzle in.You'll need deepwell 20mm and 23mm sockets to get over these nozzles but I didn't have any deepwell sockets of these sizes so I used a crescent wrench to tighten these nozzles. The instructions also didn't have any torque specs so I just cinched them down.This bracket mounts to the oil filter side of the kit and bolts to your shock tower.Use the provided bolts and a 11mm socket to mount this bracket on the side.Next I got the hoses.Place the fittings.Place the hoses on the kit...tighten with a flathead screwdriver.Done with that.Now for the block side of the filter.Go ahead and install the two nozzles with the provided gaskets and put them on the kit. There are two small ports on this side of the kit...oil sensors?Stock oil filter location.Mount the kit and screw the nozzle until tight.Use a crescent wrench to tighten.Take the other part of the kit...Mount the hoses on the plate and use your screwdriver to tighten.

I used a ziptie to support the kit to the engine until swap day.The fittings on this relocation kit are as follows...-proper thread size 3/4-16UNF -According to Greddy they recommend the Greddy QX-01 or QX-03 filter. -They also have magnetic filter with the SX-01 or SX-03. -You can also use 1985-87 Toyota Corolla GTS Oil Filter.-The S13 Sr20 filter should also work.I thought I was going to have to buy a different filter but the stock SR filters do work.This hose cover came with the kit but where it goes...I don't know so I'm gonna let that part hang loose for now.


User avatar
inkslingers13
Posts: 1063
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:32 pm
Car: 1985 Corolla Gt-S

Post

nice updates! keep up the good work

User avatar
Sleeping240
Posts: 53
Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 12:25 pm
Car: 240sx

Post

DUDE...this thread is the best..

User avatar
xharobikeslifex
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 8:44 pm
Car: 1990 240sx
Location: Shawnee

Post

positron_ wrote:I received a hotpipe/bov combo today.HKS hotpipe.HKS SuperSequential Blow-off Valve.

I checked around and most of the hotpipes that I came across had a different pipe for the frontmount and the sidemount intercoolers. This HKS hotpipe can be used for both so if I ever decide to upgrade to a frontmount then I won't have to buy another hotpipe.
hey just wanted to let u know o the nipple of the bov i believe theres a cap thats what i use to plug the bottom of the throttle body it would look alot cleaner then the slave cylinder cap haha not really much of a big deal but eh

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

xharobikeslifex wrote:
hey just wanted to let u know o the nipple of the bov i believe theres a cap thats what i use to plug the bottom of the throttle body it would look alot cleaner then the slave cylinder cap haha not really much of a big deal but eh
LOL! That thing is a perfect fit so thanks for the heads up!

User avatar
xharobikeslifex
Posts: 102
Joined: Thu May 31, 2007 8:44 pm
Car: 1990 240sx
Location: Shawnee

Post

yup no problem i read this whole build took me about an hour and a half so far so good man keep at it also if ur looking for parts and what not im parting out my sr 240sx if ur interested in any parts lemme know heres the link to it http://www.kcda-online.com/mod...art=0

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

Need opinions on what type of boost controller to get. I've been reading up on many different brands and I'm lost...they all seem to have their pros and cons. So what's the electronic boost controller recommendation for a stock setup that will probably never see much adjustments in boost?

User avatar
I WE TODD ED
Posts: 296
Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 3:01 pm
Car: '90 & '91 S13

Post

I'd go with the AEM TruBoost Controller. Its the least expensive out of all EBC's I found and it doubles as a boost gauge.

User avatar
el OCHO
Posts: 107
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:41 pm
Car: 1990 rps13

Post

hey i seen that you went with the megan exhaust manifold...i been looking into a new exhaust mani and this one is so much cheaper than pretty much any other name brands...have you heard how it compares with the expensive ones?

Kalypso
Posts: 8609
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:10 am

Post

el OCHO wrote:hey i seen that you went with the megan exhaust manifold...i been looking into a new exhaust mani and this one is so much cheaper than pretty much any other name brands...have you heard how it compares with the expensive ones?
ive gotten reports of them cracking from a few members arounf the forum recently.


User avatar
el OCHO
Posts: 107
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 6:41 pm
Car: 1990 rps13

Post

hmmm...heard anything about this one??http://www.frsport.com/Ichiba-....html

User avatar
TheBigS_42
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:22 am
Car: 93 240sx Hatch

Post

Hey posi, quick question. When you put your crank pulley back on, what did you do to stop it from spinning when tightening the bolt? I used an electric impact wrench to get it off but I assume the full 250 ft lbs might be too much for putting it on seeing as im lookin for 105ish ft lbs.

Thanks and awesome work with your build!

duffman1278
Posts: 6816
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 3:09 pm
Car: 89 240sx Hatch, the wildcats!

Post

TheBigS_42 wrote:Hey posi, quick question. When you put your crank pulley back on, what did you do to stop it from spinning when tightening the bolt? I used an electric impact wrench to get it off but I assume the full 250 ft lbs might be too much for putting it on seeing as im lookin for 105ish ft lbs.

Thanks and awesome work with your build!
Just put to of the flywheel bolts on the back, across from each other, then just stick a prybar or somethin in between and torque it down with a torque wrench.

User avatar
TheBigS_42
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:22 am
Car: 93 240sx Hatch

Post

Thanks!

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

Clutch kit...again! I had to ditch the first clutch so this time I got a Stage 2 Exedy that is sprung.Pressure plate part#:06950BClutch disc part#:ND05TOne more clutch kit and I can open up my own shop!


User avatar
supreamS14
Posts: 1046
Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:13 am
Car: 96 240sx S13-blacktop Sr20deT

Post

I love my Stage 2 Exedy! My GF hates it tho. The clutch feels stiffer but grabs better than any clutch I've felt. I have beat the piss out of it in the last year Drifting and Drag racing! I took a look at it and there is still 60% left, so I'm pleased with it.

HaloZ
Posts: 29
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 5:56 am
Car: 92 Z32, 92 S13, 94 FD3S, 01 D22
Contact:

Post

you might want to check over the wire taps for the signal input for the fan controls.

they are suppose to be off the ECU temp sensor. it looked like in the pics you tapped into the ground of the ECU temp sensor and the dash temp sensor.


User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

Thanks for the headsup. I had the taps on the ecu part of the harness so I tapped into the coolant temp sensor plug part of the harness instead.

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

I've had every combination of P/S pump and bracket from here to Tucson so I finally thought that I had this pump situation complete.

Tools needed;Socket wrenchSocket extension14mm socket17mm socketLong socket extensionOld sock(Socko)

I finally got a SR pump with the right bracket so I can mount this pulley and be done with this.Mount the pulley...Place the nut on.In order to keep the pulley from spinning while you tighten it...I took a socket extension and stuck it through one of the pulley holes. Put something soft on it to keep it from scratching or dinging up your pulley.Take a 17mm socket and tighten the pulley.To torque it up just place it on the ground and use your foot to step on the extension to hold the pulley while you torque the nut to 50ft.lbs.Done.The pump is ready to be mounted to the block.Mount it here and then spin it so you can tighten the mounting bolt.Use a 14mm socket to torque to 23-31ft.lbs.After all this trouble I still ran into yet another problem.This P/S pump adjuster bracket seems to be the wrong one...doh!



TO BE CONTINUED!!!


Kalypso
Posts: 8609
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:10 am

Post

set it where you like....and drill it!!

User avatar
vipercon64
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:45 pm
Car: 1989 240sx

Post

id either notch that bottom bracket then bend and weld it in place but it might not be that clean and nice, or drill rite above that existing hole and put a lock washer on both sides and call it done nobody would be able to see it if you get a bigger washer, dont let this small roadblock make you spend any more money on that pump bro.

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

I finally got that missing little o-ring/gasket in and a tube of ultra-grey so now I can install this valve cover.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension10mm socketLiquid gasketRags

The FSM says to use a liquid gasket. I had the black and the red but people on many of the threads that I read up on were using the Permatex Ultra-Grey for this so that's what I chose.Spark Plug Gaskets part#: 13271-52F00I'm still not sure what to call this one but it's refered to as "Gasket-Rocker Cover" part#: 13270-53J13.Like I said before, I had some trouble getting the valve cover to sit flush. Turns out one of the nuts on the oil tube, on the exhaust manifold side, was making contact with the valve cover so I took my dremel and made a cut to keep the tube from touching.The gaskets will go here.Take the ultra-grey...and make a continuous bead on the valve cover and then place your gaskets.

Wipe off any excess liquid gasket, I think I over did it on a couple. With all your gaskets and o-rings on it's time to put the cover on.The FSM states to put a 3mm bead of liquid gasket on the four half moon sections of the block. Remove any traces of old gasket first.These two on the front...and these two on the back.Take the liquid gasket and make a continuous bead on the half moons...and place the valve cover on...yeah, that fuel pressure gauge is on the wrong line.Get your hardware ready. Valve cover nuts.Valve cover washers.Place the rubber valve cover grommets on.Place your valve cover washers on.Place your valve cover nuts on. The valve cover nuts need to be tightened in a specific manner so refer to the FSM.They get torqued to 2.9ft.lbs and then to 7.2ft.lbs.Completed.Next, your brackets for the coolant temp sensor harness and lines for the engine harness/throttlebody lines.Place the brackets...and tighten

Done with that.

Complete.


User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

Gasket maker on the spark plug well gaskets is overkill. They seal perfectly fine without any gasket maker.

Kalypso
Posts: 8609
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 10:10 am

Post

thats a healthy motor, what more do you have left.


User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

Kalypso123 wrote:thats a healthy motor, what more do you have left.
O2 sensorBoost controllerOil temp/pressure guagesIntakeDownpipe-already have one but I want one with the flex piping.

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

vipercon64 wrote:id either notch that bottom bracket then bend and weld it in place but it might not be that clean and nice, or drill rite above that existing hole and put a lock washer on both sides and call it done nobody would be able to see it if you get a bigger washer, dont let this small roadblock make you spend any more money on that pump bro.
I'm probably gonna try that since I can't track this part down.

User avatar
positron1
Posts: 3609
Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe
Location: Starkville, MS.

Post

Question, would it be better to have a oil temp or a water temp gauge?


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”