My S13 SR20DET Prep

[positron1]

Thanks!

[1unar3clipse]

Bump for awesome thread, and mighty clean work!

[positron1]

Got a set of fuel lines in.

Tools needed:Screwdriver

Got a set of stainless steel fuel lines in to use instead of the 5/16" rubber hose.The longer line goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the hardline.The shorter line goes from the manifold here to the hardline.

SIDENOTE: Should a set of Altima fans with a fan controller be wired up for high speed or low speed?

[Kalypso]

Should a set of Altima fans with a fan controller be wired up for high speed or low speed?

this i'd also like to know

[positron1]

My new oil pan comes in today so I spent some time removing the old one.

Tools needed: Socket wrenchSocket extension10mm socket12mm socketRubber malletPaint scraperPaper towelsTrash bagSoap( to wash mouth out...you'll see why later!)

OEM Oil pan, I wanted to swap it out just for piece of mind.

Get a 10mm socket, you need to remove the oil pan bolts in a specific order so refer to the FSM but it goes as follows for a S13 SR20.The front middle bolt,the rear middle bolt,the front right bolt, the rear right bolt, the front left bolt, the rear left bolt, the front right side bolt, the front left side bolt, the rear right side boltand finally the rear left side bolt.

Time for the oil pan removal.I didn't have a drain pan for the engine stand so I laid down a garbage bag.

Now you need to bust the gasket on the pan loose so you can remove the pan itself. I was a little worried about this part when it came to possibly scraping up the oil pan mating surface.Use a rubber mallet and a paint scraper or some equivalent.Insert the scraper into the pan by lightly tapping it. You will feel it move inward once the gasket is broken but take care not to scrape up the aluminum mating surface.Once you get it in, then hammer and chisel the scraper around by tapping it on the side. Don't make the mistake that I did. I tapped all the gasket down to the last inch without holding the oil pan and...the pan drops and oil goes everywhere...idiot!!!Oil pan removedRight in the middle of this removal, the UPS man drops off my new oil pan so perfect timing indeed!With the pan off you can see the internals, baffle plate, oil strainer, etc!I used a razorblade to remove the old gasket from the surface.Cleaned it up, for the last bits of gasket just use the world's best scraper, your fingernails.I also decided to swap out the oil strainer while I was at it. Use a 10mm socket to remove the baffle plate.Baffle plate.Removed.Use a 12mm socket to remove 2 bolts holding the strainer in.There is a small bolt holding the strainer bracket in also. You can't get a socket in this cramped space so use a 10mm box wrench to remove it.OEM Oil Strainer Gasket part#: 15053-1E400.OEM S14 Oil Strainer part#: 15050-65F01.I decided to use the S14 strainer because they say that it is a upgrade and picks up oil better because of the extra slotting on the sides...as you can see here.S14 strainer vs. S13 strainer.I was looking at these strainers and realized that the support brackets were in different places and thought that would be a problem because I wouldn't be able to bolt this bracket in but, after some testing, I found out that it wouldn't be a problem after all.The S13 strainer bracket bolts here...while the S14 bracket can be bolted here.Take the gasket and place it on the strainer.Bolt the strainer in but keep it loose for now...and this is where the soap to wash out your mouth comes into play... because getting this bolt in was a PITA! I cursed NISSAN and everyone who works for them but I finally got it on and tightened.The strainer is on. Don't forget to tighten and torque the strainer bolts to 12-14flt.lbs. I just tightened the strainer bracket.I'm gonna have to wrap this up some other time, I gotta go to work.Tonight...you!

TO BE CONTINUED!!!

Modified by positron_ at 5:00 PM 8/7/2008

Modified by positron_ at 5:01 PM 8/7/2008

Modified by positron_ at 5:02 PM 8/7/2008
Modified by positron_ at 5:06 PM 8/7/2008

[1unar3clipse]

Shweet!

How much the S14 oil strainer run you?

[Didderson]

God I love those greddy pans. You could have just used wire cutters and slotted your s13 oil pickup, but I know you like buying brand new things lol. I just slotted and widened mine when I re-sealed the oil pan, although this was early in the build so I didn't document it.

[Kalypso]

greddy pan



I wanted one for a while but If I add an oil cooler and a filter relocator it also ups the total oil capicity and reduces temps.

[positron1]

About $20 if I remember correctly.

[duffman1278]

OMG that is coming out good! Dam if only I would have known about upgrading to the S14 SR's oil pick up. Keep up the good work! Love greddy oil pan btw

[positron1]

I finished installing my oil pan today.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension10mm socketAllen wrenchPhillips head screwdriverOil pan gasketRazor

Picking back up where I last left off...I need to reinstall the baffle plate.Use a socket wrench and 10mm socket to put the bolts back in. Torque to 4.7 to 5.5ft.lbs.Done here.Greddy oil pan.



These are the ports for the oil drain plug and optional oil temperature sensor.I'm going to get a oil temp gauge but for now I'll close this up.Just use a allen wrench, which size I'm not sure...to put this plug in.Baffle plates. The instructions for this oil pan are all in Japanese so I had to look at the pictures and guesstimate where everything goes.From what I've read these plates keep the oil centered in the pan during hard cornering hence the swiveling hinges.You'll notice that one baffle plate is taller than the other...just as one side of the oil pan is taller than the other...so they'll really only fit on one way.

Make sure you have the hardware.Use a phillipshead screwdriver to install the plates.Done.Make sure you have the hardware for the oil pan.I used Ultra Black for the gasket.Greddy put grooves in the pan to show you how much of a bead of gasket to use and where to put it...sweet attention to detail!Cut the tip at the second mark and place your gasket around in a continuous bead and install the pan within 5 minutes or the gasket will start to cure. Have your bolts and allen wrench on standby. I forgot to mention that these oil pan bolts use a allen wrench. I also don't have the torque specs...but you couldn't torque allen wrenches anyway( on second thought you could but I don't have that tool/socket)...so I just tightened them down "real good". I speak good English don't I?

I guess you would just use the OEM pan's torque specs which are 4.7-5.5ft.lbs.

[Kalypso]

awesome

[Nicen96]

where did you buy those fuel lines at.

[Kalypso]

where did you buy those fuel lines at.

id like to know, they do look nice

safarest I get the suspicion you've done a build like this before.

[positron1]

I got those fuel lines on ebay from Erics Performance Parts. This is my first buildo.

[Nicen96]

i still cant find them on ebay

[positron1]

I found 'em http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...l1116

[homeslicej2]

You could have used the S13 Blacktop pickup as well. For all I know though, it's the same as the S14 one. For the Altima fans, wiring them on high will give you more cooling/CFM across the radiator, but will shorten the life of the fans. Low should last longer, but not give as much airflow. If you get certain fan controllers, you should be able to hook-up much like stock. Low speed from say 175-190 then high speed if above 190 or when the A/C is turned on. Just look around for different controllers/ways to wire it up this way. I plan on trying to do this when I get around to installing mine.

[Hijacker]

Nissan switched to using the updated S14 strainer for the S13 blacktops AFAIK. It's actually a better design in all aspects. With the support being attached to the strainer housing, the strainer has less chance of snapping off. And yes, I've seen the strainers snap completely off the tube. The failure of the motor was pretty devastating when that happened.

Looking at the leftover oil in the old pan, it looks a little bit milky. Is that the camera flash playing tricks? If it is milky, you may want to do a leakdown test once you get the trans reassembled onto the motor but before you drop the motor back into the car.

[homeslicej2]

^Bart the car is hawt!! More pics please

[Hijacker]

I'll snag some pics of it sometimes this week and post 'em up. I only had the one angle when I snapped that picture (the passenger door was still the old vert door, not the new painted coupe door). I was hustling to get the car submitted for the '09 calendar

[redtop91]

Question on the Crank pulley pulling (Or harmonic balancer whatever). How did you use the puller? Did you thread the bolt back in without the washer and base the puller on that? Also did you put the jaws behind the lip of the 1st step of the pulley, 2nd, or 3rd? I pulled the lip off the 2nd step LOLOLOLOLZ.

[positron1]

I threaded the washer back in with the bolt and I used the 2nd lip on the crank pulley.

[homeslicej2]

One thing that has kind of perplexed me with the Greddy pan. With the baffle plates installed to keep the oil from flowing away from the pickup under hard G's, doesn't that also hinder the oil from draining out of the pan properly during an oil change? I see that there is a bit of a gap around the sides of the plates and the pan, is there a small gap b/t the bottom of the baffles and the pan too? I just imagine a good bit of the old oil getting stuck in the pan. I guess get the car as level as possible, let it drain for 10-15 minutes and then raise the driver's side up higher (drain plug is on the pass side like stock correct?) and let it drain for another 10 or so minutes so that the leftover oil can work it's way around the gaps of the one baffle plate.

[Hijacker]

It just takes longer to let the oil drain out of the pan with those baffles. Thankfully, the pan has a slight angle towards the drain hole anyways, so the oil will move towards the hole while the motor is level.

[homeslicej2]

Got you I had just often wondered and I had never seen an up close picture of the pan until this thread.

[positron1]

Nissan switched to using the updated S14 strainer for the S13 blacktops AFAIK. It's actually a better design in all aspects. With the support being attached to the strainer housing, the strainer has less chance of snapping off. And yes, I've seen the strainers snap completely off the tube. The failure of the motor was pretty devastating when that happened.

Looking at the leftover oil in the old pan, it looks a little bit milky. Is that the camera flash playing tricks? If it is milky, you may want to do a leakdown test once you get the trans reassembled onto the motor but before you drop the motor back into the car.

Will do and thanks!

One thing that has kind of perplexed me with the Greddy pan. With the baffle plates installed to keep the oil from flowing away from the pickup under hard G's, doesn't that also hinder the oil from draining out of the pan properly during an oil change? I see that there is a bit of a gap around the sides of the plates and the pan, is there a small gap b/t the bottom of the baffles and the pan too?

I should have taken better pics but there is a gap between the bottom of the baffle plates and the pan so oil can drain from the sides and the bottom.

[positron1]

I decided to get a dual fan controller for the set of Altima fans that I have.

Tools needed: Wire strippersExtra wire(which I don't have at the moment)

While researching the wiring of the Altima fans, I read many threads looked at many pics and diagrams and I think that I have the initial setup for wiring these fans in my head but I'm still not sure about how to wire them for power. Should I wire them up for low power or high power? I read that wiring them on high power will burn out the fans prematurely or lessen the fan motors life. From my understanding that was if the fans were wired directly to the battery, someone correct me if I'm wrong but my question is this...will it matter if I run them through a fan controller? I'm assuming this because the fan controller is drawing it's power straight from the battery and the fans will be getting their power from the fan controller correct???

Here's some of the info that I came across.



This is the diagram that I decided to use along with the following...I(Someone else) pulled this from Zilvia.net

+12v blue, (-12v black & -12v green) == low speed

+12v yellow, (-12v black & -12v green) == high speed

(+12v blue & +12v yellow), (-12v black & -12v green) == fans don't spin at all!--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Low Speed: blue connects to +12v source, black and green connect to ground.

High speed: yellow connects to +12v source, black and green connect to ground.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------These elec fans have 4 wires EACH.

2 go to 12V 2 go to GROUND

Low speed requires ONE 12V lead and ONE ground lead...

High Speed requires BOTH 12V active and BOTH Grounds active.

On my 240 and 200sx have the same color's on the fans and the FSM's state the same pattern.

BLUE & GREEN are the two 12V sourcesYELLOW & BLACK are the GROUND sources.

BLUE 12V & YELLOW Ground will give LOW speedBLUE 12V & BLACK Ground will also give LOW speedGREEN 12V & YELLOW Ground will also give LOW speedGREEN 12V & BLACK Ground will also give LOW speed

BLUE 12V & GREEN 12V with YELLOW ground & BLACK ground will give HIGH speed....

This is where I'm at on the fan wiring, I think I'm going to wire them for low power unless someone who's done this informs me that with a fan controller it won't matter.

From FRSport...



----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I got a DIF fan controller from Phase2motorsports.Break it out and make sure that you got every part on the list.BackFrontI'm going to start with the fan controller wiring. First up, the ground or BAT- on the back of the fan controller.Gonna need a pair of wire strippers for this.Particularly for the crimp sizing.These are the four connectors you will be crimping, they're all 16-14.Strip the wire.Like so.Put the connector on.Crimp the connector to 16-14.Ready.Plug this in to the ground outlet or BAT-. I need some extra wire for the opposite end of the wire that will be the two grounds coming from the fan but the wire that I have lying around is too small so I'll have to wait on that, besides I still haven't figured out exactly if I want to wire the fans for high or low power.Now for the power or BAT+ for the fan contoller.This wire with the fusible link.Pop the cover place the fuse...and close it back.Place a connector on the end and crimp to 16-14, the wire is already stripped.Plug into the positive outlet or BAT+.This is the provided extra wire for the other side of this fusible link.Connect like so.This gets crimped to 12-10.This is the side of the wire that will be connected to the battery for power, I'm not going to strip, crimp and connect here until swap day because the instructions say to keep this wire short and I don't know how much I'll need to shave.Next I moved to FAN+1 and FAN+2. These white wires will connect to the FAN+1 and FAN+2 on the back of the fan controller.Strip, connect and crimp to 16-14.Plug into FAN+1 and FAN+2.The other ends of these wires will accept the two positive wires from each of the dual fans.Strip, connect and crimp to 16-14. Next is the SWITCH SENSOR.It simply plugs into the SWITCH SENSOR outlet.For the other end there are four wires.WHITE-to coolant temp positive.GRAY-to coolant temp negative.BLACK-????BLACK-????(ground I'm assuming for these two but where?)I also have no definite idea where these will be connected either.INSTRUCTIONS

I don't have the right wire to do the fan wiring itself and like I said before I haven't totally decided on whether to wire them up for high or low power.





TO BE CONTINUED...


Modified by positron_ at 5:23 PM 8/12/2008

[duffman1278]

Good work, like usual, but if you have some heat shrink tubing, you could put it between the wires and the butt connectors to give it a kinda flush, clean look.

[ophaschillm]

keep it up man, i got a question about the CS turbo lines, the two smaller washers go on each side of the water outlet banjo side but the remaining 3 go between the fitting and the turbo? or between the fitting and the motor? thanks in advance