My S13 SR20DET Prep

[supreamS14]

I had to go under the dash and bend the gas pedal stop closer to the fire wall. That allowed the throttle cable the slack to close the throttle plate.

First: slide under your dash so you can reach your gas pedal with your hand. Second: Push this a half inch toward the firewall! DONE!

[positron1]

I had to go under the dash and bend the gas pedal stop closer to the fire wall. That allowed the throttle cable the slack to close the throttle plate.

First: slide under your dash so you can reach your gas pedal with your hand. Second: Push this a half inch toward the firewall! DONE!

Thanks man! I'll definitely try that out!

[I WE TODD ED]

Congratulations man!! That's great that you didn't have to go through all the timing and re-timing problems. Just wait to you drive it. SR's are **** load of fun.

[positron1]

Thanks man, I'm very excited that I did not have to fool with timing, timing is the most dreaded thing on this Earth! After confirming that the fan works, fixing the throttle cable problem and bleeding the radiator, how long should I let the engine run at idle before I actually get in and start driving it around? Also, to anyone with a DIF fan controller, the instructions are very vague about programming, so how did you program yours?

[enterpricorp]

Thanks man, I'm very excited that I did not have to fool with timing, timing is the most dreaded thing on this Earth! After confirming that the fan works, fixing the throttle cable problem and bleeding the radiator, how long should I let the engine run at idle before I actually get in and start driving it around? Also, to anyone with a DIF fan controller, the instructions are very vague about programming, so how did you program yours?

Thanks man, I'm very excited that I did not have to fool with timing, timing is the most dreaded thing on this Earth! After confirming that the fan works, fixing the throttle cable problem and bleeding the radiator, how long should I let the engine run at idle before I actually get in and start driving it around? Also, to anyone with a DIF fan controller, the instructions are very vague about programming, so how did you program yours?

If the engine came from a running car you shouldn't have to worry about timing, but if for some reason you had to set ignition timing it is very simple on this setup. TDC on #1, set cas, seems a lot of people relate all their engine problems to an incorrect diagnosis of timing these days.

Good practice to let your swapped in sr run with the radiator cap off while it reaches operating temperature. Keep an eye on oil pressure and temperature and check around the engine for leaks and strange noises. After that it's ok to cruise. I'd run some conventional/semi oil through the motor and then change to a synthetic if that's what you plan on using in the long run to be extra safe.

[duffman1278]

I would just let it idle for about 15 minutes. Than after that if there's no visible leaks anywhere take it for a cruise around the block. Than after that you should be set! You'll love it, SR's are so fun.

[positron1]

Congratulations man!! That's great that you didn't have to go through all the timing and re-timing problems. Just wait to you drive it. SR's are **** load of fun.

Thanks and I can't freakin' wait!

If the engine came from a running car you shouldn't have to worry about timing, but if for some reason you had to set ignition timing it is very simple on this setup. TDC on #1, set cas, seems a lot of people relate all their engine problems to an incorrect diagnosis of timing these days.

Good practice to let your swapped in sr run with the radiator cap off while it reaches operating temperature. Keep an eye on oil pressure and temperature and check around the engine for leaks and strange noises. After that it's ok to cruise. I'd run some conventional/semi oil through the motor and then change to a synthetic if that's what you plan on using in the long run to be extra safe.

Okay and thanks. I didn't worry about it when I got the engine because the CAS was intact but I broke mine...don't ask me how it happened please! I did follow specs on how to replace it though.

I would just let it idle for about 15 minutes. Than after that if there's no visible leaks anywhere take it for a cruise around the block. Than after that you should be set! You'll love it, SR's are so fun.

Cool!

[Solow240sx]

Looks awesome man, Good Job!

[homeslicej2]

Does anyone know if the little metal clip that holds the MAF plug onto the MAF sensor is the same on the SR as the KA because I'm missing one and went to the junkyard today and there weren't any. I snagged one off a Stanza but it's too small. I've got it on the MAF but it does not fit well.

Yeah, use the paper clip method duffman suggested. KA (sohc) and SR MAF's have different MAF plug widths. Not sure on the DOHC KA MAF. As for oil pressure, the FSM for the S14 SR states the following: Approximate pressure: At Idle: 11 psi At 3200 RPM: 46-57 psi I run around 12 psi idle, ~45-60 while cruising (varies with speed), and as high as 80+ when the motor is cold. I have a redtop as well. I'd run a good full synthetic from the start. You didn't rebuild the motor and even though it's getting colder, synthetic is best for the motor and turbo.

[I WE TODD ED]

...

Nice... I didnt know you could get away with posting stuff like this. I'm not complaining at all though.
Modified by I WE TODD ED at 4:24 PM 11/18/2008

[enterpricorp]

I'd run a good full synthetic from the start. You didn't rebuild the motor and even though it's getting colder, synthetic is best for the motor and turbo.

It has nothing to do with having a rebuilt motor or not, the motor probably had conventional oil ran through it its entire life and then sat in a warehouse for months or even years and it's a safe measure to flush any contaminants out before spending copious amounts of money on a nice synthetic oil. Colder or wamer a multi grade oil is going to perform nearly the same as the next as far as viscosity goes so I don't know what that's all about. But I agree like I said earlier, synthetics are the way to go.

[positron1]

What brands of synthetics are you guys using?

[enterpricorp]

What brands of synthetics are you guys using?

You can't go wrong with any of the group iv, v, synthetics which are pao based or even the group iii hydrocracked (mineral derived) oils

some examples of group iv trully synthetic oils would be amsoil, mobil 1

There's also some group v oils which are primarily ester based (also full synthetic) some examples would be Motul, Elf, Redline, royal purple

Group iii oils will also give you exceptional performance, but they are not trully synthetic. They are derived from mineral base stocks although the end product is nothing like what they started from. Some examples would be Penzoil platinum, castrol syntec, valvoline synthetic

Amsoil was the first in synthetics and does a lot of testing to back up their products and most show them to be on top - these oils are what I use in all my 2 stroke applications, cycles, and my SR. I also use their transmission and gear products. I also use Redline transmission products for gearboxes requiring a gl-4 gear oil like most nissans.

If you needed to pick up something locally, mobil 1 is definitely a great performer and a full synthetic. Next on my list would be Penzoil Platinum.
Modified by enterpricorp at 7:03 AM 11/18/2008

[homeslicej2]

It has nothing to do with having a rebuilt motor or not, the motor probably had conventional oil ran through it its entire life and then sat in a warehouse for months or even years and it's a safe measure to flush any contaminants out before spending copious amounts of money on a nice synthetic oil. Colder or wamer a multi grade oil is going to perform nearly the same as the next as far as viscosity goes so I don't know what that's all about. But I agree like I said earlier, synthetics are the way to go.

I see what you mean about the sitting. Some people still argue that you need to break in a motor (new or rebuilt) with conventional, then go to syn. I thought that was what you were talking about. As for the "getting colder", I was referring to synthetic's ability to withstand higher running temps than conventional (as in oil temp). In GA I generally run about 20+ degrees cooler while crusing in the winter than I do in the summer because the difference in outside temps (I still have my A/C condensor installed, but a/c is not hooked up). Down here when temps hit 95+ with 90%+ humidity, I worry about conventional's ability to handle the heat loads generated by the turbo. Anyway, I run Mobil 1 year round bc it's readily available and cheaper than Royal Purple (around here at least). If I tracked my car, I'd run RP. The above advice enterpricorp gave is good

Nice... I didnt know you could get away with posting stuff like this. I'm not complaining at all though.

You can't. you're not supposed to post stuff like that on NICO and if a mod sees it, it's insta-ban for the member who posted it. she does have some big tah-tahs though God I hope I never see a woman I know degrad herself like that though. I love to see that stuff, but at the same time it bugs me. Apparently, all you need is a camera and women will do anything, don't need money, fame, power, just a camera lol.

[enterpricorp]

If it were getting colder that's still no reason to have a preference to run conventional versus a synthetic. It's wise to use a break in oil or a group 2 oil on new and rebuilt engines, primarily for piston ring break in.

A little addition to the oil discussion - group iv pao based oils will hold up better in normal driving conditions than a group 5 like redline or royal purple. All this means is that you can run extended drain intervals with a group 4, but the group 5 oils have a high solvency will keep your motor very clean.
Modified by enterpricorp at 9:36 PM 11/18/2008

[positron1]

I had a coolant leak from the rear and it turns out that the small braided coolant line behind the block was loose so I was able to get back there with a 7mm wrench and tighten it but now I have another coolant leak where the S shaped heater hose connects to the firewall. The clamp is not loose so what's the deal? Also, I set my DIF fan controller to O on both fans and let the engine idle until the temp gauge got up to 150 degrees but the fans never came on so I shut it off...anyone?
Modified by positron_ at 3:07 PM 11/19/2008

[homeslicej2]

If it were getting colder that's still no reason to have a preference to run conventional versus a synthetic. ....

I know, but I do know guys down here that run conv. in the winter and syn in the summer in their turbo cars bc they think, colder air, colder intake air (at turbo), colder running turbo and engine, I can get away with the cheaper conv. summer is hot and humid air, hotter air intake (at turbo), i need to run syn. So, I was just trying to steer him away from that, aside from the benefits of syn over conv. As I said though, I run Mobil 1 year round.

A little addition to the oil discussion - group iv pao based oils will hold up better in normal driving conditions that a group 5 like redline or royal purple. All this means is that you can run extended drain intervals, but the group v oils have a great solvency and dtergency and will keep your motor very clean.

Interesting. I'd like to know more, but I don't want to clutter Posi's thread up more. maybe compile more info and start a new thread or dig up that old one floating around NICO about different oils and add to it?

[positron1]

I forgot to mention that the S shaped hose wasn't leaking at all until I added more coolant and water to the radiator to fill it up. Could it be that I added too much coolant? There seems to be a bulge where the S shaped hose connects to the firewall.

[schanne]

If you didn't replace the hoses back there yet, maybe you should. That hose back there would leak when it wanted to for me, I hated it soo bad. Finally it had to be replaced.

[va240dude]

positron, have you solved the throttle cable/plate issue? i'm working on mine at the moment trying to figure out what i should do, i think i'm going to have a friend weld a small bit to the existing one, but i'll need to get a good angle to the throttle as well.

[supreamS14]

positron, have you solved the throttle cable/plate issue? i'm working on mine at the moment trying to figure out what i should do, i think i'm going to have a friend weld a small bit to the existing one, but i'll need to get a good angle to the throttle as well.

I had to go under the dash and bend the gas pedal stop closer to the fire wall. That allowed the throttle cable the slack to close the throttle plate.

First: slide under your dash so you can reach your gas pedal with your hand. Second: Push this a half inch toward the firewall! DONE!

[SeanC]

not gonna lie, everything looks really good until you put the motor in. wish you would have taken your time installing it clean. the fans shouldn't kick on till 195ish.

[enterpricorp]

I forgot to mention that the S shaped hose wasn't leaking at all until I added more coolant and water to the radiator to fill it up. Could it be that I added too much coolant? There seems to be a bulge where the S shaped hose connects to the firewall.

No, that's not the problem, that connection shouldn't leak no matter how much coolant is in the setup. Take the hose off and inspect the barb/flare on the heater core - the tubes are most likely aluminum and farely easy to bend when installing or removing the motor. It seems to me like it's just a case of a bad seal. The hose may not be on far enough or the clamp may not be tight enough or in a bad spot - make sure it is right behind the flare on the tube, that ought to help. Inspect the inside of the hose also and make sure nothing is wrong there.

Any quality group II conventional oil will be rated for turbocharged engines and handle them just fine, but nothing beats the protection of modern synthetics.

Don't know what all the fuss is about.. The engine bay isn't as pretty as the motor, but the motor isn't going to stay shiny forever either. The bay is stock and it is what it is. Not show quality, but this install is about as oem as you get minus the few aftermarket bits that save some money and clean things up.
Modified by enterpricorp at 11:32 PM 11/18/2008

[positron1]

If you didn't replace the hoses back there yet, maybe you should. That hose back there would leak when it wanted to for me, I hated it soo bad. Finally it had to be replaced.

They were new hoses, now that I tightened that turbo coolant line everything is fine back there now.

positron, have you solved the throttle cable/plate issue? i'm working on mine at the moment trying to figure out what i should do, i think i'm going to have a friend weld a small bit to the existing one, but i'll need to get a good angle to the throttle as well.

Yeah, the method that supreamS14 suggested worked perfectly. Just bend the bracket down.

not gonna lie, everything looks really good until you put the motor in. wish you would have taken your time installing it clean. the fans shouldn't kick on till 195ish.

Yeah, I wasn't happy with the flat black so the day after the swap before I started hooking up things I trashbagged the block and repainted the bay with low gloss black. I guess the new pics don't do it justice but when you're standing in front of it, it looks ten times better than before. I had considered getting it painted at a shop but dropped that idea. So the fans shouldn't kick in until around 195? I'm scared to let the temp get above 150 without shutting it down. 150 is the lowest setting on the fan controller.

No, that's not the problem, that connection shouldn't leak no matter how much coolant is in the setup. Take the hose off and inspect the barb/flare on the heater core - the tubes are most likely aluminum and farely easy to bend when installing or removing the motor. It seems to me like it's just a case of a bad seal. The hose may not be on far enough or the clamp may not be tight enough or in a bad spot - make sure it is right behind the flare on the tube, that ought to help. Inspect the inside of the hose also and make sure nothing is wrong there.Don't know what all the fuss is about. The engine bay isn't as pretty as the motor, but the motor isn't going to stay shiny forever either. The bay is stock and it is what it is. Not show quality, but this install is about as oem as you get minus the few aftermarket bits that save some money and clean things up.

Okay thanks, I'll do that tomorrow. Yeah, it's no where near show quality but for a straightforward bare bones swap it turned out pretty good, I guess you just have to be there to understand.

I had to go under the dash and bend the gas pedal stop closer to the fire wall. That allowed the throttle cable the slack to close the throttle plate.First: slide under your dash so you can reach your gas pedal with your hand. Second: Push this a half inch toward the firewall! DONE!

This solved my problem with the throttle cable so good lookin' out man thanks!
Modified by positron_ at 2:37 AM 11/19/2008

[Slideways^Jordan]

Congrats on the install man!! drive her already she just begging you !!

[positron1]

Congrats on the install man!! drive her already she just begging you !!

Thanks bro, I'm trying, everytime I fix one thing something else seems to pop up. I took the S-shaped heater hose off and the nozzle is intact but it appears that the rubber seal around the nozzle is bad which is causing the leak. I've checked Courtesy Nissan and the part(rubber seal) is no longer available. I'm thinking maybe try the junkyard but if I can't get one could I use a RTV or something to seal this up?They no longer sell this seal! I'm probably not going to be able to remove one at the junkyard without destroying the seal.
Modified by positron_ at 3:21 PM 11/19/2008

[enterpricorp]

The rubber you see on the firewal is just a pass-through grommet for the heater core tubes/barbs. The plastic tubes are crimped in the metal heater core or attached to the end tank with fasteners. I think you could replace the plastic inlet/outlet tubes by themselves on some of the heater cores.

Can't tell if the plastic is cracked without a close inspection so check that tube out all around (mirror helps here). If that checks out the only thing left would be the rubber hose or an inadequate seal between the rubber hose and plastic tube.

Here is the rest of the part you are looking at


Modified by enterpricorp at 2:52 PM 11/19/2008

[positron1]

There's no coolant on the inside of the car so if the tip of that tube has a crack can I seal it up with something?

[datsun2401972]

Well, if it's a crack on one of the heater core plastic nipples, wouldn't you rather buy a new heater core? I'm sure it's not "easy" to R&R...I just wouldn't want to trust some plastic epoxy to keep my coolant from spontaneously gushing out of that crack when your on the track.

You'll probably have to take the heater core out to trace any crack that might make it leak anyways...if you don't feel like doing it right now just reroute your heater core hoses and go without heat for awhile!

[enterpricorp]

There's no coolant on the inside of the car so if the tip of that tube has a crack can I seal it up with something?

If it's a crack you could rough it up and use some jb weld - but with the clamping force and considering how thin the tubes are I'd question that repair. If you really wanted to fix it versus getting a new part I'd weld the crack with a soldering iron and a bit of compatable plastic - the plastic type should be stamped on the end tank/tube.

You're not really out anything but some time if you attempt repair so it never hurts to try just keep an, eye on it.

From the picture it looks good, but even a hairline crack is going to leak, check it out well. It may just be the hose not getting a good seal.