My S13 SR20DET Prep

[datsun2401972]

ok, but if the "tip" is cracked then the "leak" will be inside the hose...therefore it would not be a leak...

So, now I think we understand it's not just the tip? Must be in the portion closest to the firewall, in which you would want to check the rest of the plastic peice to see where the crack has "traveled".

I think it's possible to have the crack around the grommet/plastic nipple interface so that very little coolant leaks into the footwell compaired to the engine bay.

[enterpricorp]

Yes, it would be a leak, if the barb is cracked the connection is going to leak especially with a clamping load on it. It's unlikely there's a crack in the middle of the tube that didn't start at the end.

After positron inspects it like I suggested earlier we'll know what the problem is.

[Ghast]

I have never ventured over to the SR thread until today.

And this is what I stumble upon.

This is the Art that i am looking to achieve when come time for the engine to be built then put into my car.

I have spent the last 2 1/2 hours reading your thread from front to back.

Inspiring.

Keep up the good work.

You can bet i will be coming to this thread when come time for my build.

One Love,

Ghasty

[positron1]

Thanks for the comments and info people...I'm gonna get investigating on that hose/nozzle thing today when it warms up.

[positron1]

THIS IS WHY I LOVE NICO...YOU PEOPLE ROCK THE HOUSE!Okay I went out there and removed the cooling unit to see if I could gain some kind of access to the side of the heater core and spy a leak and this is what I found.No leaks on the inside, so I put the hose back on the nozzle and tightened it down and the leak seems to be gone. I guess I just wasn't tightening the hose clamp down enough...probably in fear of busting the nozzle. I just went back out and checked again and there is just a trickle of coolant that looks to be just some excess that was on or in the rubber firewall stopper. How tight do you think I can clamp that hose down without busting the nozzle? Thanks again and extra thanks to enterpricorp!

[positron1]

Okay now that the coolant leak has been taken care of, I no longer have any leaks at all. My next problem is the fans, I still can't get them to come on. As I stated before, I used the battery cable/screwdriver method to test the fans and they both function and they are set up to push or pull or whatever the correct way to blow is for this radiator. I've checked the connections on the wiring and everything is intact and the fuse is not blown. I took the battery cables off and just applied the ground and power wires for the fan controller itself in an attempt to program it and I can hear it click over so it's functional as well. I followed the directions for programing and I can't get them to pulse like the directions say that they should. I also just set them to 0 which is 150 degrees, the lowest temp on the controller, and let the car idle until the water temp got to 150 and they have yet to come on. Unless anyone has any ideas, I'm gonna get a switch from the parts store and wire up the manual switch and see if that turns them on.

[aznrib]

did you follow the exact directions from frsport on how to wire it to the cts?

[positron1]

I went back and looked over the thread and remembered that I had the taps for the white and gray wires on the ECU part of the harness...the first time that I did it but like a dumb***...I redid it to put the taps on the coolant temp sensor part of the harness but the pic on for the SR setup on FRSport clearly has the taps on the ECU part of the harness next to the big gray plug like I originally had it so I'm gonna try that.

[aznrib]

on frsport they tapped to the ecu part for the ka motor. For the sr motor they did what you did. But the + wire was a different color then yours. Try the white wire on the harness instead.

[bruinbear714]

Okay now that the coolant leak has been taken care of, I no longer have any leaks at all. My next problem is the fans, I still can't get them to come on. As I stated before, I used the battery cable/screwdriver method to test the fans and they both function and they are set up to push or pull or whatever the correct way to blow is for this radiator. I've checked the connections on the wiring and everything is intact and the fuse is not blown. I took the battery cables off and just applied the ground and power wires for the fan controller itself in an attempt to program it and I can hear it click over so it's functional as well. I followed the directions for programing and I can't get them to pulse like the directions say that they should. I also just set them to 0 which is 150 degrees, the lowest temp on the controller, and let the car idle until the water temp got to 150 and they have yet to come on. Unless anyone has any ideas, I'm gonna get a switch from the parts store and wire up the manual switch and see if that turns them on.

You will need to go through the programming steps before the unit will work normally. Follow the steps below:

1) Remove power to the unit.2) Set BOTH dials to "4" for Nissan.3) Connect the two manual switch wires together.4) Apply power to the unit.

The fans should pulse four times. Disconnect the manual switch and power to the unit. Set the dials to 0 and 1 to test. Apply power and wait. Your fans should come on around 150F.

After that, the unit should work normally. Make sure you have the gray and white wires going to the proper coolant temp sensor wires. On the SR I think the wire colors are Orange/blue for positive and black for negative.

Verify with a multimeter that the two wires are reading around 1-2V.

[positron1]

Okay so this fan controller has had me stumped but I finally figured out the problem tonight. I went over my wiring time and time again and found it to be intact. I went to AutoZone and got a $4 on/off toggle switch with the two black wires attached. I went outside, removed the negative battery cable, stripped some wire off the two black manual switch wires on the fan controller switch sensor and tied them to the toggle switch. I followed the instructions by setting the switch to "4" for Nissan and touched the fan controllers ground wire to the negative battery terminal and turned on the toggle switch, the fans did not come on but I could hear the fan controller click on four times, stop and click on four times again. I was stumped because it was obvious that the fan controller works and was in programming mode. I went inside and looked over the instructions and it hit me that while I had the fan controller's ground wire at the battery, I had the two fans ground wires on the chassis where the ground for the headlights are. So I removed the fans ground wires and placed all three grounds ring terminals on a screwdriver and touched the screwdriver to the negative battery terminal and voila...THE DRIVERS SIDE FAN BEGAN TO PULSE FOUR TIMES JUST AS THE INSTRUCTIONS SAID. THE FAN PULSES FOUR TIMES, STOPS AND PULSES FOUR MORE TIMES AND THIS CYCLE CONTINUES TO LET YOU KNOW THAT THE FAN CONTROLLER HAS BEEN PROGRAMMED! So once again...success and thanks for the help! It's dark, cold, late and my hands feel like two blocks of ice so I'm done for the night. I'll get out there tomorrow and adjust the temp switches and see if the fans come on while idling the engine. Little tip...place all three grounds, the DiF fan controller and the two fan grounds at the battery if possible to complete the connection.

[positron1]

I'm going to apply power to the boost controller tomorrow and was thinking that since the $40-$50 gauges needed a inline fuse...why not use a inline fuse for a $300 boost controller? The instructions don't say to use a inline fuse but if I choose to what size fuse should I go with?

[enterpricorp]

I'm going to apply power to the boost controller tomorrow and was thinking that since the $40-$50 gauges needed a inline fuse...why not use a inline fuse for a $300 boost controller? The instructions don't say to use a inline fuse but if I choose to what size fuse should I go with?

What type of boost controller are you using? Are the amperage requirements listed in the manual or on the unit?

[positron1]

It's a Greddy Profec B and I can't find anything on amperage in the manual.

[va240dude]

Positron, what kind of battery are you using? Are you keeping it up front or relocating to the engine bay? Pics?

[positron1]

A AutoZone Duralast battery in the front.

[positron1]

I got out there today, reconnected the battery cable with ALL the fan controller/fan grounds at the battery, programmed the fan controller and set it to "0". I let the car idle for a while and both fans came on at 150 degrees as stated so now that problem has been solved.

[positron1]

Alright, now that the fans are operating I let the car sit and idle for a while. The idle started out at around 1800 but eventually dropped to 1000. My fuel pressure was around 39 to 40 PSI I just glanced at that gauge. I have a drip of coolant coming from the AN adapter that the water temp sensor is plugged into at the water neck, apparently I didn't put any teflon tape on it so I have to fix that.

Question, I have two nozzles on the rubber intake piece that need to be blocked off. A really small one and the larger one with the hose that, on a stock setup is connected to the T-fitting on the valvecover. Currently, I just took the nipple that was on the OEM coldpipe off and put it on the end of the smaller hose but the larger port I just have electrical tape covering it up. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can use to block these off with?

[Nicen96]

hey who is the picture of that girl she looks like a girl from my area

[positron1]

I don't know but she has cast a spell on me! I'm hypnotized by that G.I.F!

[enterpricorp]

The profec b operates dual solenoids to control boost, the controller itself probably draws a few 100 millamps and the solenoids a few amps. A 3.5 or 5 amp fuse will offer protection from spikes or short circuits. Couldn't find ratings anywhere for this product, but you could measure the amp draw with a multimeter during operation.

Are you keeping it up front or relocating to the engine bay? Pics?

The engine bay is the front of the car

[positron1]

Thanks!

[positron1]

I need to find a spot to get power to the boost controller...any suggestions. I should mention that the wiring in my car looks like a bowl of spaghetti...it's a mess. I'm using the cigarette lighter for the gauge bezel. I was going to go with the illumination switch but wouldn't that mean that my boost controller wouldn't come on until I switched on my lights? I also tracked down that coolant leak that I thought was coming from the bung in the water neck...it's coming from the water neck itself. Apparently the gasket that I put around it isn't holding well enough so tomorrow I'm going to redo that. My question is what type of gasket maker should I use because I used the orange RTV the first time, it could be that I just didn't put a good enough bead of gasket around the neck though.

[enterpricorp]

I'd use a gasket from the parts store or cut my own from gasket material. I never did like the idea of using a gasket maker on plumbing like water necks and thermostat housings that originally used paper or rubber gaskets.

As for the power, if you start tieing into accessory circuits you may create excessive amp draw on those circuits. I would wire all your add-ons from a 12 volt ignition bus in the fuse/relay box or from 12volts on the ignition switch which would probably be a bit easier.

[positron1]

So I could run a wire with a male connector on it to the fuse block in the engine bay and plug into one of the relays there?

[enterpricorp]

For what you're running I'd just tie into the ignition, that will take care of switching and your devices will come on when the key is on.

[positron1]

Alright, I ran a wire straight to the battery and got power to the boost controller but I ran into a problem. The controllers led blue screen stays on all the time, when I hold the button to turn it off and when I shut the car off the blue screen reading "000" is on all the time so I removed the power switch and decided to go into the ignition switch. Luckily when I looked at the ignition switch, the previous owner already had a female tap on the ignition switch already so I put a male connector on the boost controller power wire and plugged it in and I got power...but the controller still stays on the blue screen all the time. Can anyone with a Greddy Profec tell me if it's supposed to do that?

[enterpricorp]

The switched 12v you should be tapping into on the column is the black/red.

Seems like the reason the controller would not be shutting down completely is because it's not connected to a switched source. Was the previously installed tap on the white wire of the ignition harness? That is the constant 12v supply, it's connected directly to the battery (fused).
Modified by enterpricorp at 10:16 PM 11/22/2008

[positron1]

The switched 12v you should be tapping into on the column is the black/red.

Seems like the reason the controller would not be shutting down completely is because it's not connected to a switched source. Was the previously installed tap on the white wire of the ignition harness? That is the constant 12v supply, it's connected directly to the battery (fused).

Modified by enterpricorp at 10:16 PM 11/22/2008

Yes, exactly...now that I think about it the wire is white. I'll tap the black/red...thanks again!

[homeslicej2]

Question, I have two nozzles on the rubber intake piece that need to be blocked off. A really small one and the larger one with the hose that, on a stock setup is connected to the T-fitting on the valvecover. Currently, I just took the nipple that was on the OEM coldpipe off and put it on the end of the smaller hose but the larger port I just have electrical tape covering it up. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can use to block these off with?

The smaller one is for a vacuum line to the factory boost control solenoid that none of us get with our engines (unless you buy a clip). The larger one needs to be connected to the T fitting on your valve cover. If you insist on blocking it off, go to an autoparts store and find a large enough nipple to slip over it. If you decide to reconnect it to the T fitting, just use the factory molded hose or get some hydralic hose and cut to length.