My S13 SR20DET Prep

[positron1]

Thanks!

[positron1]

Alright, I tapped into the big black and red wire on the ignition switch and inserted a male connector into the tap and the boost controller is fully functional. It comes on when the key is turned and turns off when the ignition is shut off. Thanks enterpricorp!

[positron1]

Can anyone tell me what they used to get the snap rings back on their shifter? I know I can use some needle nose pliers for the snap ring with the holes in it that goes on top but for the other ring without the holes what can I use or get for it? I went to the parts store and the snap ring pliers that they had are only good for the rings with the holes in them.

[va240dude]

It took my bro and I with a pair of pliers/flat head screw drivers to do it...if you're by yourself it's a PITA...why doesn't you snap ring have holes in it? Both or ours had it...

[positron1]

The C ring on the bottom doesn't have any holes in it but the one that goes on top of that one does. I was thinking the same thing but last week while at the junkyard, I spied a S14 with the transmission sitting beside it so I took a look at the shift assembly and it was the same as mine with the non-holed C ring on the bottom and the C ring with the holes on top. I've been trying to put this thing into place by myself and you're right...it's a PITA!! I've thrown tools on the ground and stormed off cursing at least twice! I give up...if I'm to do this by myself I need a tool.

[datsun2401972]

I've thrown tools on the ground and stormed off cursing at least twice! I give up...if I'm to do this by myself I need a tool.

No, no, Posi in all his infinite patience would never do something like that!

[enterpricorp]

Can anyone tell me what they used to get the snap rings back on their shifter? I know I can use some needle nose pliers for the snap ring with the holes in it that goes on top but for the other ring without the holes what can I use or get for it? I went to the parts store and the snap ring pliers that they had are only good for the rings with the holes in them.

There is a special pliers made for these rings, but you should be able to get by without them. I would have thought it was harder to get it out than back in. Once you get it started in the shifter bore sharp blows with a blunt tipped tool like a punch ought to get it moving. Tilt one end in first then compress the right and push the other end in. Curious, did you replace both shifter bushings?

[duffman1278]

Their called SNAP RING PLIERS. I suggest getting them. They're inexpensive and make the job easier.

[enterpricorp]

Their called SNAP RING PLIERS. I suggest getting them. They're inexpensive and make the job easier.

SNAP RING PLIERS for constant section rings? Not going to work.

I never had any trouble getting them back in the groove just get one started on an angle and muscle it in the groove. To get them out I just put a small pin punch in the bottom shifter guide bushings pin/keyways and pop it out of the groove.
Modified by enterpricorp at 1:59 AM 11/25/2008

[TheBigS_42]

I did this last week with a buddy and believe me it was not fun. I also got frustrated after countless failed attempts. So finally I took it out of the car put it under my shoe and beat some sense into it in the form of bending it a bit. Now maybe this isnt ideal but by making the 2 tips a tiny bit closer together we were able to finally get it into place with 2 flat head screw drivers and some pliers. it doesn't fit as snug as it used to but it doesn't have enough room to come out and as much as I try there is no way for the shifter to come out so I am happy with it.

[positron1]

No, no, Posi in all his infinite patience would never do something like that!

I did this last week with a buddy and believe me it was not fun. I also got frustrated after countless failed attempts. So finally I took it out of the car put it under my shoe and beat some sense into it in the form of bending it a bit. Now maybe this isnt ideal but by making the 2 tips a tiny bit closer together we were able to finally get it into place with 2 flat head screw drivers and some pliers. it doesn't fit as snug as it used to but it doesn't have enough room to come out and as much as I try there is no way for the shifter to come out so I am happy with it.

I thought about doing that too if I couldn't wedge them in!

SNAP RING PLIERS for constant section rings? Not going to work.

I never had any trouble getting them back in the groove just get one started on an angle and muscle it in the groove. To get them out I just put a small pin punch in the bottom shifter guide bushings pin/keyways and pop it out of the groove.

I'll keep trying!

Their called SNAP RING PLIERS. I suggest getting them. They're inexpensive and make the job easier.

I went ahead and got those pliers but seem to be no good for the holeless snap rings.

[enterpricorp]

Quote, originally posted by duffman1278 » Their called SNAP RING PLIERS. I suggest getting them. They're inexpensive and make the job easier. I went ahead and got those pliers but seem to be no good for the holeless snap rings.

That's because it's not a snap ring it's a "constant section ring" I don't think he knew what you were talking about before he posted.

Anyways, I kind of feel like making a video for this one - maybe it will help. Let us know if you get it in.

[positron1]

Constant section ring, is that the one they refer to as a "C-ring"?

[enterpricorp]

Constant section rings are elliptical shaped and make contant at only three points of the groove versus the uniform contact area of a tapered section "snap ring."

I imagine if you hear "c-clip" they are referring to a retaining clip that is shaped like a C.

[datsun2401972]

Far from a technical term, but I always called them "e" clips for obvious reasons...

[Solow240sx]

Looking very nice man, but i couldn't find a section where you installed the clutch & flywheel and im just wandering if u no what the torque specs are for the flywheel to crank, and also the pressure plate to flywheel..

[positron1]

Thanks and flywheel is 94-101ft.lbs.Pressure plate is 25-33ft.lbs.

[exhsturbine]

i think if anyone here deserves to drive their car..... its you, ive been following this since you started....... so why havent you finished? : )

make no mistake.... good job!

[positron1]

Just a bunch of little things, a coolant leak here, an exhaust leak here...little stuff but I'm close.

[Slideways^Jordan]

i think if anyone here deserves to drive their car..... its you, ive been following this since you started....... so why havent you finished? : )

make no mistake.... good job!

what about me dude check my thread man! I havent really got to drive my car in 2 years and now its almost done man; my work is really under appreciated alot.

[positron1]

That is so true, this dude's thread is hardcore. Lot of information, lot of pics and a lot of hard work has paid off because his car has moved to baller status. Reading and keeping up on his thread really helped me and a tons of other people tremendously.

CHECK THIS ISH OUT!!! » Slideways^Jordan's SR Head Build / Turbo and Question thread. zer...age=1


Modified by positron_ at 4:07 PM 11/27/2008

[positron1]

Alright, I finally managed to fanagle both those shifter rings into place. After that I put my console and glovebox back in so my interior is back to norm...just needs a good cleaning, cobwebs and dust. I had my ECU on upside down so I had to fix that. I also broke out the zipties and cleaned up the loose wires in the bay. I ziptied them together and hid as many as I could. I still need some of that covering for the fan wiring. I ran the engine and tested the new gasket on the water neck and it's fine...no leaks but there was a leak on the bung in the S14 water neck so I pulled it out and teflon taped it, threaded it back in and it's no longer leaking. I think I am finally leakless...yes!!! I started the engine again and revved it slightly and heard my bov for the first time...friggin' sweet! Tomorrow I have to put that extra exhaust gasket on to close up the leak where the downpipe meets the cat and fix the bolt situation on the driveshaft carrier bearing. I thought that the bolts for the center bearing and the transmission cross member were the same but apparently they weren't and we got them mixed up so now I have to figure out which bolt in the transmission crossmember is the one for the center bearing, pull it out and put the loose bolt that I have in. Test drive tomorrow!!!

[positron1]

I got a set of radiator feet in. Part#: 21508-10V00It's raining out so I have to wait on the exhaust gaskets and carrier bearing bolts.

[Solow240sx]

Glad to hear its coming together man, i wish i was as far as you! Interested in seeing some more pics of the engine bay, with the wireing cleaned up..

[positron1]

It's 1 in the morning and I put my car up on jackstands and go ahead and put the extra exhaust gaskets on to seal up the gap between the downpipe and the cat. I also put the missing bolt in the driveshaft center bearing so now I guess I'm ready for the test drive tomorrow.

[va240dude]

Cool man I hope everything goes well!~!

[noobdrftr]

let us know how the test drive was...

[positron1]

I went out there tonight and put those radiator feet on the hard way...with the hoses intact and fluid in the rad...and by myself to boot. Let me start off first by saying to anyone who plans to do the swap, make absolutely sure that you have the feet on the rad before you put it in because it is an absolute PITA to put them on a completely setup rad by yourself. This would have been much easier in the daytime and with a friend to help but I'm always the only one around when I do this crap! By taking the battery out and removing the radiator brackets, I was able to shimy the rad up maybe an inch which allowed me to slide the feet on. THIS IS NOT EASY TO DO BY YOURSELF!!! After that I topped off my rad and let the car run for awhile with the cap off to bleed it. I then took a short spin around the apartment complex. I then came to a big conclusion, either I'm out of practice driving a manual or that stage 2 clutch is way to stiff for me. Either way I'm happy because I got to drive my 240 for the first time in some time. I need to get my stickers and then I'll get on a dead road somewhere and get some boost for the first time.

[supreamS14]

[QUOTE=positron_] either I'm out of practice driving a manual or that stage 2 clutch is way to stiff for me. QUOTE]

I thought my stage 2 exedy clutch was too stiff as well. The clutch pedal probable just needs a little wd40 on the spring and moving parts. Well 1 day my girl was driving and the crappy clutch pedal tack welds broke making the clutch pedal useless(she drives it like a granny)! we were in the middle of the road like what are we gonna do? I couldn't get it in gear with the car on. I did a auto to Manuel swap so I could start it when in gear. I turned the car off, I put it in first and cranked it, the car jumped and started to go in first. I then remembered the sr has a synchromesh transmission. I took it to 2500rpm, pulled it out of 1st gear and it slipped right into 2nd without the clutch. I got it home, pulled the pedal( the little crappy tack welds make me wander WTF did nissan do?), Took it to a muffler shop, Payed $5 for them to weld that crap the right way, went home, painted it so it wont rust, hit it with wd40, slapped it back in there, now it feels solid, smooth and it don't feel as hard to push the pedal.

[positron1]

either I'm out of practice driving a manual or that stage 2 clutch is way to stiff for me. QUOTE]

I thought my stage 2 exedy clutch was too stiff as well. The clutch pedal probable just needs a little wd40 on the spring and moving parts. Well 1 day my girl was driving and the crappy clutch pedal tack welds broke making the clutch pedal useless(she drives it like a granny)! we were in the middle of the road like what are we gonna do? I couldn't get it in gear with the car on. I did a auto to Manuel swap so I could start it when in gear. I turned the car off, I put it in first and cranked it, the car jumped and started to go in first. I then remembered the sr has a synchromesh transmission. I took it to 2500rpm, pulled it out of 1st gear and it slipped right into 2nd without the clutch. I got it home, pulled the pedal( the little crappy tack welds make me wander WTF did nissan do?), Took it to a muffler shop, Payed $5 for them to weld that crap the right way, went home, painted it so it wont rust, hit it with wd40, slapped it back in there, now it feels solid, smooth and it don't feel as hard to push the pedal.

Thanks for the info again! I will add some WD40 to the pedal and spring tomorrow.

Yet another leak I might add. This time it's oil coming from the turbo line banjo bolt. I'll have to get out the wrench and tighten that. It seems that all my leaks appear to be from stuff not being tightened enough. I'm going to have to be extra vigilant from now on when it comes to stuff that I don't tighten with a torque wrench. I also think I need to tighten the banjo and bolt on the P/S pump. The coolant leaks on the temp sensor bung and firewall fixed, the gas coming from the fuel gauge fixed(if you get one of these, make sure you take it apart, put teflon tape on the threads and tighten back). I guess it could be worse because aside from these minor leaks, everything appears to be fine. I will be doing a leakdown/compression test ASAP to see if my numbers match JSA's. Also, the idle started off at almost 2000 but after the car ran for awhile it dropped and leveled off at 1000. I'm gonna look more into this but if anyone has any info on that it would be greatly appreciated.