my 'not much of a build' build

[Razi]

[danshaz82]

so im just gonna go with what James suggested and pull it off from the knuckle side. im not about to mess things up by beating the crap out of the joint housing.

[danshaz82]

i should probably change the title of the thread, since its turned into an actual build haha

[SkyS13Walker]

NICe NISMO mounts!!! good add

[danshaz82]

thanks! ive been waiting to get em since i started this. so im pretty pumped cause my mounts now are completely shot.

[SkyS13Walker]

Deff going to like them a lot...might have a little problem putting the engine back in as the engine is going to sit higher then before. NO MORE SHAKE THO!!!!

[danshaz82]

Deff going to like them a lot...might have a little problem putting the engine back in as the engine is going to sit higher then before. NO MORE SHAKE THO!!!!

how much higher would you say? ive read that theres almost no difference to a noticeable difference
cleaned up the fender wells from where i pounded them in the first time. also painted it. id say it looks a ton better

cleaned/painted the subframe an put in the max solid risers. im excited to see how these feel once the car is back on the road

had my brother weld the diff. he did a fantastic job and im gonna have him sandblast it to clean out all the slag

and then the new wheels next to the s14 se's

[SkyS13Walker]

Nothing you would really notice but you will see that is have a more upright look to it

[SkyS13Walker]

I LIKE where your going with the car....Let me know if the sub-frame risers do justice to the height of the car

[danshaz82]

I LIKE where your going with the car....Let me know if the sub-frame risers do justice to the height of the car

thanks!
as for the risers, i got this right from the thread on the PBM forums:

the top of our solid part is flush with the top of the subframe itself without any collar or protrusions which will press the subframe to the chassis, up about a half inch from its previous position to assist proper geometry in lowered cars while stiffening the chassis

since i raised the car, and with the extra height of these, im hoping that ill have a real nice rear geometry with mostly stock arms and knuckles

[MellowZ32]

hot thread

[danshaz82]

hot thread

i reeeeeeally need the rest of the arms. and new knuckles. hoping to have the subframe back in the car by the end of the week.

[danshaz82]

nothing is ever easy with this car haha
happened on both sides of the rear subframe studs. everything ive read is to cut out that section of the frame, cut out that section from another car, and then weld it back in. thats really not an option right now.
im thinking about cutting off that part of the stud and leaving a bit so i can fit a die on it. or using that Permatex thread repair stuff.

[Chartung]

Wow, that really sucks. I hope you get everything figured out soon, I really like where you're going with the car.

[Razi]

One of my worst fears.

[danshaz82]

Wow, that really sucks. I hope you get everything figured out soon, I really like where you're going with the car.

thanks

One of my worst fears.

yeah. i was lucky that they didnt snap.
but! i was able to fix it. i ended up cutting off the part of the stud with some of the stripped part left and then threw some dies on there. i wasnt able to actually fix that thread, but i was able to make it so i can thread the nut on.

in other news, i was bored, so i decided to take the head off the old motor. i think i have an idea as to why it seized. still dont actually know why tho. just an idea


it was like that on all of them except the ones on cylinder 4
without the HG

the head

[Razi]

The blocked areas are normal.
It's there so the coolant goes to the back of the head and loops around.

[danshaz82]

seriously? wow, i had no idea. well im an idiot

[Razi]

No worries, I thought the same thing when I took mine off.

[danshaz82]

finally got my hands on a lift

ever wonder whats inside your mounts?

the nut on the backside is stripped, so i need to figure out how to get that off.

and the solid steering bushing. im pretty excited to see how much better the steering feels with it. also, those metal sleeves were such a pain in the a** to get in. i messed up my vice trying to press them in.
but i should have the new motor in within the next week.
bonus:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40ULkUADRYw[/youtube]
thats how bad my mounts were
also one of my bleeder screws is stripped on one of the calipers. yay.

[Razi]

Legit mounts bro.
When I was at the junkyard, I had to use a big a** chisel to destroy a nut off of one of the driveshaft nuts. It's a pain in the a**, but that might get your mount off.

That new aluminum bushings isn't gonna be dramatic, but my steering felt a bit sharper and it sends more road vibration up the column.

[danshaz82]

super legit haha
im taking the front cross member out to clean it, so it shouldnt be that bad. might just take the sawzall to it.
i know it wont be dramatic, but my old bushing was pretty beat.

[Hijacker]

Legit mounts bro.
When I was at the junkyard, I had to use a big a** chisel to destroy a nut off of one of the driveshaft nuts. It's a pain in the a**, but that might get your mount off.

That new aluminum bushings isn't gonna be dramatic, but my steering felt a bit sharper and it sends more road vibration up the column.

Tie rod ends and stiffer rack bushings will give better steering response than replacing that bushing. However, there's nothing wrong with getting the bushing while you got stuff apart. I just don't see the need to do that job as a stand alone. When I replaced my rack last year, steering response was much tighter from new moog outer rods and ES poly rack bushings.

[danshaz82]

i recently put in a brand new rack with Touge Factory s14 ends and the ES rack bushings. so everything is pretty much new down there. but chances are though, im not going to notice it at all cause i havnt driven the thing in over 4 months

[Hijacker]

I didn't notice the difference in mine until I got the PS pump hooked back up after I replaced my rack. It's quick and steering is tight.

[danshaz82]

seriously such a pain in the a**. may have been cause it was my first time doing anything like this, but nothing went how it should have. it kept getting stuck, the mounts would line up, kept hitting the firewall. even the straps i was using didnt wana cooperate

[Razi]

It's always a pain in the a** to maneuver a motor in there.

[danshaz82]

i know. i had to take off the PS rack and lower the crossmember and s***.

[danshaz82]

having a real hard time getting the fuel rail back on. i cant get it to line up, and only #4 goes in. when it is in, #1 is a good 3 inches above the hole. i dont want to force it down and bend the rail or anything. any suggestions?

[Razi]

I think you gotta try and slide all 4 in at the same time or it tilts everything.
I think I put the fat rubber seals in first, then lined the rail up and pushed them in.