my 'not much of a build' build

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
danshaz82
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haha i took em out of the old engine. i figured they would be useable, but apparently not. ill pick some up tomorrow, and if that doesnt work, im gonna swallow my pride and take it to a shop


danshaz82
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mine just have a s*** ton of carbon on them haha buti think i have an idea. i reused the gasket on the iacv, and i did notice a break in it,ut didnt think anything of it. if there was a leak there, would it make sense that the maf wouldnt notice it, cause it to not throw the maf codek?

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Razi
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Yeah, I'd at least put some silicone on where it's torn for a temp fix.
Air is probably sneaking in through there.

danshaz82
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yeah, so the IACV gasket was totally shot. but while i had it off, i gave it a real thorough cleaning. new gasket is on its way
in the mean time, heres a s13 fuel rail compared to a s14
Image
and here it is on the car
Image
you can see that the only issues are the one tab on the left doesnt line up. and the the 2 tabs on top, which i believe were for the injector harness cover. i didnt bolt up mine up to it cause im not sure about how much clearance ill have when i install the strut bar.

danshaz82
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got the new IACV gasket on. and it worked! it doesnt stall out or die now. sweet. but there is a slight hiccup tho. like a small backfire almost. not sure what it is. but f*** it, ill take it cause it actually runs.

on the downside, theres a rather loud noise coming from what i think is the head. its the loudest around 2k. it sounds like its chain slapping or scratching something, but the upper guide is already gone, and the other one has oil pressure. i cant check the lower one cause everything is still on.
is it possible that its putting too much pressure on the chain?

edit:
i took a video while turning it over by hand. thoughts?
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsI5igQ20KQ&feature[/youtube]
is there supposed to be that much slack?

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Razi
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Nice. Good to hear it worked.
That's a s*** ton of slack in your chain, it shouldn't fall down that much.
With my new chain and tensioner, it's always stiff, like when your first pushed on it in the video.

danshaz82
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oh god damnit. its just one problem after another haha.
what the hell would cause that much slack? bad idler sprocket? and what would happen if i were to leave it like that?

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Razi
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If one side of the gears are worn a bit more than the other, that can cause the chain to have tension on one spot, and get very slack on another. Happens sometimes on single speed bicycles.
However since you have a tensioner, it shouldn't matter that much. I think once it gets oil pressure, it should take up the slack.
Is the tensioner old?

The noise can also be an out of spec shim on top of the cam buckets.

danshaz82
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i just checked it out. i put pressure on the back of the tensioner with a screw driver and turned it over and the slack went away. so bad tensioner then, right?

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Razi
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It's possible.
Can't find a way to check the tensioner in the FSM. Is the plastic shoe worn out at all?

danshaz82
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its hard to tell, because im not sure how its supposed to look when its new haha.

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Razi
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:rotfl

danshaz82
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i just took the front cover off to look at it, and it looks brand new.
but this doesnt seem right (watch in hd on full screen)
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaABDnefcBY&feature[/youtube]

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Razi
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Yeah, I'm not sure why it's suddenly losing tension and backing up.
Mine never does that.

danshaz82
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i think it was cause i let all the oil out of it when i took it off. but it was doing it before i took it off, just not as bad.
theres no side guide either. not sure if that matters or not. but s***, i can not figure this out :cry:
ill make a thread in the tech section to see if anyone has any input.

danshaz82
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i figured it out...
threads for the idler sprocket are stripped. f*** me, right? i have 2 options:
1.) repair the thread with a helicoil/thread repair stuff
2.) replace the head with the old one.
i found this thread on KA-T which addresses it. http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.ph ... 2c7ae5e593
i read that people just used a longer bolt too, cause the threads go way deep into the head i guess.

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Razi
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Damn that sucks.
I've heard of people using longer bolts, but I'm not sure how much more thread is left in the head.

danshaz82
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yeah, i checked the other head and its not much.
i ordered a helicoil kit. incase anyone comes across this, the size is M12x1.25 and the drill bit is 31/64

danshaz82
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fixed the stupid idler sprocket, got the front cover on today and just went to put the dizzy back in and it wouldnt go in. i was able to get it in by turning the engine over and pushing on it. but i could not turn it, at all. i turned it over some more and it seemed alot harder than before, and then i had to use a mallet to get that damn thing out. what did i f*** up this time? :rotfl :facepalm:

edit: so i think the idle sprocket isnt exactly lined up from when i helicoiled it. which would be putting pressure on the dizzy cause its not correctly lined up. so basically the idler sprocket gear is sitting very slightly lower than it should be :facepalm: awesome.
besides not being able to turn the dizzy by hand, is there anything that negative about this? besides more wear and tear from the extra pressure? cause i dont think i can fix this. maybe take a dremel to the inside of the front cover to free up some space for the dizzy?

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Razi
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My dizzy was a bit tough to poke in, cause when I decked the head, I didn't do the front cover with it, so things were a bit uneven.
Haven't noticed anything bad though.

danshaz82
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good! cause im sick of this s*** haha. depending on how lazy im feeling today, and if its not under 15 degrees, ill get it all finished.

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fiznowler
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Car: 97 240sx se, 5 speed, paint, tan leather interior. vg30dett swap in progress.
86 300zx NA Daily Driver
Too many other nissans and parts to list!
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I have had a hell of a time fitting a new distributer in and having to drive them out on several KA motors. Sometimes they slide right in though wierd. My s13 coupe was a super PITA and it had the same timing problems your car is having. I got it running right and sold it to a guy and told him it needed timing chain addressed. He bought it put and put on a timing kit and sheared that same bolt off from tension into the head. Wish I wouldn't have sold it, was a pretty car same color as Razi's car with bronze rota grids.

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fiznowler
Posts: 1492
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 4:34 am
Car: 97 240sx se, 5 speed, paint, tan leather interior. vg30dett swap in progress.
86 300zx NA Daily Driver
Too many other nissans and parts to list!
Location: Springfield, Mo

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damn triple post. :facepalm:

danshaz82
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well im glad to hear im not the only one this happened to. makes me feel better :rotfl

danshaz82
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so i think the head is fubar from trying to repair the idler sprocket. when i went to turn it over, it struggled, and then made a real bad whining/growling noise and wanted to die. i took the dizzy out and turned it over and everything went like it should have.

i really dont think its possible to fix the idler sprocket again, so im thinking of using the head from the other motor. now my question is, can i use the head studs and gasket that are on the current motor? its only seen about 15 minutes total run time, and none of which was under load.

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Razi
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You should be able to reuse the gasket.
Not sure about the studs though.

danshaz82
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i better be able to haha. theyre brand new ARP studs.

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Razi
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You could ask ARP.

danshaz82
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ill shoot em an email.
in the mean time, the other head. not bad for a DIY cleaning.
Image
Image

edit: just emaild ARP, and they said everything is perfectly fine to use again. that makes me happy!

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Razi
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Woot woot!


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