my 'not much of a build' build

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
danshaz82
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thats what ive been doing, but theres a hole on the back of the rail for the bolt on the mani. and that keeps getting in the way. and when i put it over the bolt, it still wont line up. i think im going to just cut that section off the rail.
in other news, im putting all the wiring back in place, and i got to the coolant temp sensor. realized i got the wrong one :|
i need this one: http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-OEM-ECU-T ... 27744.html
i got this one: http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-OEM-ECU-T ... 12663.html
luckly i kept the old one. it still works fine too.


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Razi
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I think I had issues lining up that hole too.
It took a while to get it all line up nicely.

danshaz82
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[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO1SNXF75V4&feature=plcp[/youtube]
:biggrin:
now i know the timing is off, cause i have it all the way advanced, so i have to adjust that.
and its running real rich cause the lack of o2 sensor.
now what i dont get, is when i start it, none of the interior lights work. cluster lights, nothing. until i give it gas. as you can see, the stuff just turns on once i touch the pedal, including the wipers.
its also running very hot. the exhaust all the way back to the canister was too hot to touch. is that cause its running so rich/advanced?
its also idling at 1k.

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Razi
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That's rad sounding lawnmower.

There could be a loose ground somewhere.

I think you're leaning out a ton and getting things crazy hot.
I wouldn't leave it on for long because it's bad for the motor.
All KA distributors I've seen, sit kinda in the middle of the adjustment range when they're timed properly.
Maybe that'll get it drivable so you can get it set at a shop or something.
After having some issues with my timing, I just bought a timing gun from O'reilly's. Only 40 bucks.

danshaz82
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lets see. i got the timing in the ballpark by moving the dizzy back a tooth. need to get a light to get it perfect.
i fixed the electrical issue. turns out the 75a somehow popped, but maybe bridged itself whenever i gave it throttle? not sure, but i replaced it and its perfect.
now heres where im at. i was bleeding the coolant today, and noticed the motor started to stumble and want to die. you can somewhat heat it
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39YOOLrQmHw&feature=plcp[/youtube]
it didnt do that the other day. it sounds like a miss or a vac leak. but i checked the plugs and they looked fouled. they were all black.

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Razi
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Do you have your MAF connected to a filter or the stock box?
I think the MAF needs a smooth and even flow of air. Probably not the reason though.

Do you still have the nest of vacuum lines behind the head and under the throttle body? Stuff could be leaking there.

danshaz82
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naa, maf is on a filter. seems to run better with it unplugged.
dont have the nest of stuff. took all that off.

danshaz82
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replaced the maf and its still doing it. still runs like s***. no idea what to do

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Razi
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Any codes on the ECU?
Back when my car ran like crap, I made a checklist on stuff I fixed/replaced, and a list of stuff I haven't looked at.

danshaz82
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dunno how to check for codes. i did find some of the wires on the knock sensor and the coolant temp sensor were broken right at the male end of the connectors tho

fixed the knock sensor one. but since nothing ever goes right, the coolant temp wire broke off right at the connector. awesome. gotta go back to the junkyard and grab another one. :rolleyes:

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Razi
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:spitout:
I know that feeling.
Same thing happened to me when I replaced my knock sensor.

ECU code checking guide:
http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/ecm_codes_doch.htm

I have a consult adapter + program on my laptop though, makes it much easier to check on things.

danshaz82
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why dont you send that fancy pants adapter to me so i can use it haha.

ok i just checked. i had a bunch. i saw the first two, 12 and 13 and then i missed the rest. i ended up clearing them, which idk if that was the best idea. but all i have left now is 13, which is the coolant temp sensor circuit. and that makes sense cause the plug decided to completely come off.

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Razi
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It's okay to clear them, then we'll know what problems are left.
Might've gotten the MAF code cause you had the MAF off once.

Do you have the upside down U shaped hose under the manifold removed and plugged?
Image
It hooks to a pipe that goes under the throttle body.
If you have all the hoses under the throttle body removed, that thing is gonna start leaking unless you have it plugged.

danshaz82
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ok cool. an yeah, i have that all plugged/blocked off

danshaz82
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finally got time to fix the coolant temp sensor. good news is it works. cleared the codes, got 55, started it and...same s***. nothing changed. getting code 12 which is MAF. And, to top it off, i have a f*** coolant leak somewhere under the manifold. im so close to pushing this hunk of s*** down the street and into the river.

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Razi
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:rotfl :rotfl :rotfl
I guess something MAF related is effin up.
Wiring?

danshaz82
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most likely. im gonna have to dust off the multi meter and start testing stuff.
but this coolant leak really chaps my a**. im reeeeeeeaally hoping i can just take the intake tube off and fix it from there.
and did your Nismo mounts push everything more forward? cause the engine is sitting more forward in the bay than before

drz1ll3st
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hey dan i had the same problem with my car. it wasnt the MAF (2 new ones later), have your car running and spray carb cleaner. if your idle raises, you have a leak around there. its how i found my leak, and if u deleted emissions, then you probably have a leak somewhere. i logged in just to tell you cuz i drove myself crazy before i figured it was that lol.

Good Luck!
Eddy.

danshaz82
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drz1ll3st wrote:hey dan i had the same problem with my car. it wasnt the MAF (2 new ones later), have your car running and spray carb cleaner. if your idle raises, you have a leak around there. its how i found my leak, and if u deleted emissions, then you probably have a leak somewhere. i logged in just to tell you cuz i drove myself crazy before i figured it was that lol.

Good Luck!
Eddy.
well, i would check it, but i just ripped everything back out so i can fix the coolant leak that just developed haha. but i appreciate the replay and the help. ill give that a shot once i have everything back together.

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Razi
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I don't think my NISMO mounts moved my motor forward that much.

I got a small coolant leak under my manifold too.
I'm just letting it leak, cause it's annoying as hell to get there.

danshaz82
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weird, cause mines pushed more forward than before. had to modify the intake tube to fit
and the through crossed my mind haha. but its def a bad leak. its running down the side of the block and dripping off the drain part of the oil pan

danshaz82
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figured id post up some pics i didnt before since im making backwards progress haha
the diff after it was all finished. OEM hardware and Moonface drain bolts
Image
rear end all together
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trans all cleaned up
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new pivot ball
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i think i may have been a bit low
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blast pipes v hks
Image

danshaz82
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some progress.
Image
got the upper half of the manifold off. used the double nut technique to get all the studs out. is it a good idea to use bolts instead of the studs, or should i put the studs back in?

but i checked for the coolant leak, and i could find anything directly. but i think it may have been from the little fitting thats right next to the spot where the upper hose connects on the intake mani.

as for the vac lines, i checked them all and everything seems good. i couldnt find any leaks. i replaced all the vac caps on everything i blocked off too. i also cleaned the IACV and the one next to it, and redid the RTV on the EGR block off.

is there anything else i should go over since i have everything apart? is there a more efficient way of checking the vac lines besides plugging one end with my finger and blowing into the other end? :rotfl

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Razi
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If you can borrow a vacuum/boost gauge you can check to see if it's at -22 psi~ish at idle.
Are all your vacuum hoses new?
If all your emission stuff is removed and plugged, the only small vacuum hose should just be the hose going from the lower back of the manifold to the FPR.

I would reuse the studs, I heard bolts have a higher risk of stripping or something.

danshaz82
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besides the FPR, i have the one from the IACV and all that, and then the one form the PCV to these
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and i cant remember which ones are. i know i replaced most of them last time i had this all off, but that was about 2 years ago.

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Razi
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Mine were cracking when I took them off I think.
But they were there since the factory, yours is probably okay.

See if you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge and a vacuum gauge.

danshaz82
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lets see...
replaced the intake mani gaskets. checked all vac lines, replaced all vac caps, redid seal on EGR block off, cleaned IACV, cleaned throttle body, tried 2 different MAFS, replaced fuel rail. throwing code 55. runs even worse than before and shakes like a dog s******g razor blades.
it thew code 21 on the first start, but i took care of that.
ive run out of ideas and things i can think of to do.

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Razi
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I'm out of ideas too.
Only thing I can think of is if the timing chain jumped or something.
Your spark plugs are good right?

danshaz82
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Image
i dont think so.

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Razi
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:rotfl
The tips on my friend's RB were completely disintegrated, ran like yours.
Yours doesn't look too bad though. Unless they were the ones with pointy tips.


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