my 'not much of a build' build

[Razi]

I'd replace the seal.
They're pretty cheap I think. Lube the seal and crank up with engine oil before putting it in, mine went in easy.

im so dumb
no idea why i didnt think of that. well, there goes my perfect RTV bead on the oil pan haha.

LOL
sux4u

[danshaz82]

no u!
i keep buying more stuff. just got new coolant temp sensors. im looking at an Apexi power filter cause id really like to replace my K&N. this is the one im looking at
http://www.frsport.com/APEXi-500-A025-D ... _1237.html
i know id have to get a silicon coupler to connect it to the maf. im just wondering if this would fit? i havnt done much research at all on filters cause i havnt had to replace mine.

also, i should probably add at this point, that i have no O2 sensor. its there, but not wired into anything. i cant figure out where its supposed to wire into. i would like to fix that before i put the new motor in. ill have a picture or 2 of it tomorrow or sunday to show.
with the motor in there now, it runs really rich. i have the emissions deleted too. so no emissions and no o2 sensor and it runs super rich. just a little background info on it.

[danshaz82]

got my knock sensor in the mail today. gonna put that on tonight.
but i was out driving today, and its been pretty hot here recently. and i noticed that the speedo was acting up again. (i have the digital speedo and HUD. both work) first time i noticed it, i was doing 50 and it would flash random numbers. then today it just didnt read the speed at all. just stayed at 0. not sure if its related to the heat or not. im assuming its the VSS because both the HUD and the speedo stay on, but dont read out a speed.

[danshaz82]

well, the motor thats currently in the car finally called it quits. died 3 times on the way to work, and then died on the way home.
i tried jumping it and pushing starting it. i tried letting the clutch out easy, i tried dumping the clutch, and i tried while in gear. and each time the rear wheels would lock up. so im pretty sure the motors seized

[danshaz82]

figured id post a few pictures from the other day. probably the last time itll be seen with the hellaflush mad tyte hype y0 camber.
oh well, on to the pics


and when it finally died

[Razi]

When do you think you can get the engine in?

[danshaz82]

whenever i have time/space. my sister has a ton of furniture for her house next semester in the garage, so theres no room. and i only have 2 days off work. which is enough to do it. but i need a hoist first haha

[danshaz82]

ok! been a bit since an update. was busy with work, an then had surgery, so i wasnt able to do anything until these last few days.
i decided it was probably a good idea to change the HG. glad i did. so today i tackled the head removal.
here it is after the cams were out


alot dirtier than i previously though.
on to the pistons and cylinders...


yeah
heres the valves



so after about 2 or so hours, this is how things looked


(ignore the marks on the valves. i didnt get all the build up off)
this worried me. looks like the valves tapped. had this on all 4

then i had a question about my timing. as you can see here, where i marked it was TDC. now is this fine? cause it looks like its off a few teeth. hopefully someone knows

then everything is going to be held together by these


another question, i got a new OEM head gasket. i also got that copper gasket spray. is it recommended to spray the HG with it? this is my first time doing this, so i just want to make sure i wont have to do it again for a while.

but i hope to get everything cleaned up more and get everything back together tomorrow.
i also got a few goodies coming in the mail, so im excited about that.

[Razi]

What'd you get surgery for? New man sausage?

Some people spray copper gasket stuff on the headgasket, but I don't think you'll need it. OEM doesn't require it, so I didn't use it.
If it can take the heat, I guess it can't hurt.

Dunno about the chain, just redo everything with the FSM.
Clean up the chain and you'll see a few links that are a different color. Set everything by following the FSM by starting on EM Page #16.
Since the head is out, you can check the shims out by following EM Page #28. I think the KAs are so noisy cause our bucket shims are all worn out.

[danshaz82]

What'd you get surgery for? New man sausage?

yes i did

Some people spray copper gasket stuff on the headgasket, but I don't think you'll need it. OEM doesn't require it, so I didn't use it.
If it can take the heat, I guess it can't hurt.

well i figured i would use it to give it a better seal, since i didnt get the head/block resurfaced.

Dunno about the chain, just redo everything with the FSM.
Clean up the chain and you'll see a few links that are a different color. Set everything by following the FSM by starting on EM Page #16.
Since the head is out, you can check the shims out by following EM Page #28. I think the KAs are so noisy cause our bucket shims are all worn out.

well i dont think it matters where its at now since the cams are out. so i could just put it back to the links it should be at.
as for the buckets, idk what the shims are supposed to look like haha. ill check them all out today and see what they look like. how would i go about replacing the shims? or would i have to get all new buckets?

[Razi]

I think Greg used the copper stuff on his headgasket with no issue, so you should be fine too.

For the buckets you just use a gauge and poke em between the cam and the shim to measure.
If they're too worn out, you pop em out and buy thicker ones from Nissan. FSM has all the steps layed out.
I should do mine, I think it's gotten even noisier recently.

I would just redo the whole timing since there are marks on the pistons.

[danshaz82]

ill just ask greg about that haha
ill have to do that when i reinstall the cams. probably should have done it prior. oh well.
im just hoping i can get everything back together the correct way. im starting to second guess myself now

[danshaz82]

discovered this today...

wasnt too pleased by that.
but anyways, got the head studs in and HG and head on. wasnt able to torque them down cause i didnt have the proper tools

every things coming together. should be only 2 weeks or so till i can get it in
and as for the marks on the pistons, i believe thats the reason the PO rebuild the head. cause the intake valves look pretty new, and theres no marks on them that would show that they tapped. idk, just thinkin out loud.

[danshaz82]

ok, so i got the head on and everything torqued. nearly had a panic attack when i was torquing down then nuts on the head studs. i used a 13mm 6 point socket to torque them to 20 lbs, so i figured it was the right size. lolnope. when i tried 55 lbs, i nearly rounded off one of the nuts haha. totally stupid on my part for not using the right socket.
but now im trying to get the timing down. does this look right?

i have it set up to what i believe is exactly how the JWT diagram looks. and the white marks are where i marked it when i took it off. and why is there so much slack in the top there? when i took it off it was really tight

[Hijacker]

You look proper. I would have lined the links up in the middle of the link instead of in between. It makes counting links easier. There should be 6 links in between, which you have if you shift the chain half a link.

As for the slack, that's typical. Most times when you pull the chain off, there's less slack between the cams. You'd have slack like that even if you used a brand new chain. It'll tighten up once you turn the motor over a few times with the tensioner installed.

[danshaz82]

You look proper. I would have lined the links up in the middle of the link instead of in between. It makes counting links easier. There should be 6 links in between, which you have if you shift the chain half a link.

As for the slack, that's typical. Most times when you pull the chain off, there's less slack between the cams. You'd have slack like that even if you used a brand new chain. It'll tighten up once you turn the motor over a few times with the tensioner installed.

sweet, thanks!
yeah, i only lined the chain up like that cause it was easiest for me at that time. ill move it over tonight.

[danshaz82]

16x9 +0
need to get them refinished tho. then theyre going on the rear and the 8s on front.

[Razi]

<333

[danshaz82]

so im basically done with the new motor. i was thinking about cycling some oil trough it while its on the stand and turing it over by hand for a while to flush it all out and what not. would that work?

[Razi]

Yeah that should work.
It'll probably take a lot of turns though.

[danshaz82]

cool. i can do the same for the cooling system right? just put a hose in the upper hose or whatever?

[Razi]

Yeah you could probably do that to flush out any crap that fell in the galleys.

[danshaz82]

ok! mad updates. i finally decided to stop being a lazy ***hole and to get to wrenching.
here we go.
took nearly everything off the motor to get it ready to pull.

nearly had an aneurism trying to get the exhaust mani out, cause its a 1 piece and the drivers side motor mount is so bad that the motor was leaning over a few inches. so it was near impossible to get out. had to unbolt the mount form the block.
hover mode!

my parts pile. added even more to it today haha

how it sat for the last few days

then i dropped this bad boy

much easier than i was expecting. also, this thing hasnt been touched since it was put in at the factory. so there was corrosion on the nuts and studs. so i soaked them that mixture of ATF and acetone. that made things sooo much easier. i really recommend that stuff.

you can see the corrosion on the studs. you can also see the grease streaks from when the axle boots ripped haha.
thats it for now. may not seem like much, but its a huge accomplishment for me. i still got a lot left to do.
i plan to clean and paint the subframe and all that
install the MAX subframe risers
install rucas
weld diff
and put it all back together. ill have more updates fairly soon. i have some more goodies coming in the mail as well

[Razi]

Hot hot.

[danshaz82]

ill take a picture of it tomorrow, but on the spot where the frame rails meet each other, one part got somehow really pinched in. no idea how. no idea how to fix it either.

[Razi]

Hammers
or something

[danshaz82]

Clarkson style.
idk, youll see when i post a pic. im too tired to go back out there and get under it haha

[danshaz82]

ugh

i thought i could just pound them out. lolnope. tool the trusty sazall to em. still a pain in the a**.
and then im trying to replace the inner axle boots, and i have no idea how the hell to get the old ones off. anyone have any ideas?

thats where i am as of now.
waiting on the subframe to dry off, then im gonna clean/paint it and put in the risers

[Razi]

Do my subframe when you come here.

I think there's a snap ring that disconnects the axle from the fat ends.
There should be a diagram or step-by-step in the 91-94 FSM.

[danshaz82]

yours would probably be so much easier to do. i might haha
and according to the fsm, i need to pound the end cap off and then remove the snap ring that way. damnit, i was really hoping this would be easy.