my 'not much of a build' build

[danshaz82]

yeah, i figured it wouldnt have had an effect on it.
but i did figure this out. the rubber insulator on #4 only goes on this far, compared to the others.

so im thinking that its not seating all the way in the rail, causing it to not be fully spraying into the combustion chamber, but more so dripping/leaking in. i have another injector thats the same as the other 3, but a piece of that plastic lip on the top where that rubber insulator goes for the cap is cracked off. so i wasnt sure if i could use that one or not.

and im gonna have to clean this thread up once i finish this. its like 6 of the 8 pages are filled with me being a complete idiot

[Razi]

That injector is fat down there, so that's a possibility.
I guess, replace that injector and ground everything.

[danshaz82]

yeah it is. the fat black part in the middle goes down way farther down than the other ones. no idea how i missed that before.
and everything should be grounded. got the one on the back of the head on the exhaust side. got the one infront of the fuel rail, and the one on the intake mani.

[Razi]

Aww yiss.
I hope that works...

[danshaz82]

it better f*** work haha. if not, im gonna leave it on the train tracks and keep the hhr

[Razi]

[alms24sebring]

Double check timing. Use a good injector. If it is still acting up, listen for a vacuum leak and spray around with brake clean to listen for an idle change. A bad knock sensor I dont think would matter. Get a multimeter and set it to I think 200k Ohms (the symbol that looks like a horseshoe if it doesnt say). Touch one pin with the red wire, and the other with the black wire, on the sensor. Should be relatively high. If theres no power from the connector at the harness, follow the wire for breaks.

And lol, you break alot of things.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/240sx- ... iming.html

[danshaz82]

well i know the timings correct now. i messed with it for hours to make sure it was. im gonna see if the other injectors fix it. hopefully it does. and i dont think the knock sensor is a problem anymore cause it isnt throwing the code. but ill check anyways.
and i know! all this old wiring hasnt been moved much from its original resting places, so when i move it out of the way and stuff, the wires break. plus it doesnt help that i like to take everything completely apart which ends up with me breaking atleast one thing.

[alms24sebring]

It may also be something simple like leaving something unplugged. I hate that, I do it too.

[danshaz82]

chances are its something real simple. every problem has been so far except one

[danshaz82]

well changing the injector didnt work. so since im once again at a stand still, i figured id ask.
when i replaced the plug for the knock sensor, i used one form an Altma KA. looks like this

you can see the the smaller wire is gray. however, on my harness, that wire is black. does that matter?

[Razi]

Nah. As long as they're about the same thickness, it shouldn't really matter.

[danshaz82]

well im completely f*** stumped.
but i did notice that plugs 3 and 4 were wet and smelled of gas. 1 and 2 were totally black.
im thinking it might be the plug wires. do you know what the ohms should be for them?

[Razi]

Dunno.
I guess you could see if all the wires have the same amount of resistance.

[alms24sebring]

Sounds like your just running too rich or timing is too retarded. No vacuum leaks?

[danshaz82]

not sure. im gonna check for vac leaks tomorrow. ill see if moving the dizzy a tooth makes a difference too.
but i just checked the resistance of the plug wires
1 was 8.1k ohms
2 was 8.7k
3 was 10.9k
4 was 11.7k
and the ground wire was 9.7k
i have no idea how old they are either. they were on the car when i got it.

[alms24sebring]

I mean if it wasnt there before, skip it. But shouldnt the ground wire be low in ohms?

[danshaz82]

well i think i figured it out...

that delicious milkshake

[Razi]

Your car is the gift that keeps on giving.

[danshaz82]

i know. and im just sitting here, grinning like a jackass. not even mad anymore.
luckly i can get the head off in like an hour now.

[Razi]

[danshaz82]

now i just gotta figure out how to clean that stuff out.

[danshaz82]

and thus concludes this "build".
the car will be pushed to the side of the garage like all forgotten projects till most likely end of spring/sometime in the summer
also probably gonna be parting out what i can from the combo of the 2 KA's cause the plan now is to go SR/RB when i can afford to.
so if anyone needs anything, let me know an ill see what i can do.

[alms24sebring]

Wow. I wont be the a$$hole but how the fudge did that happen!? Trying really hard not to laugh at your luck mixed with catastrophic damage right now, but thats funny to me. Dam dude I thought I had it bad. So... it looks like timing was off after all...

[danshaz82]

haha laugh away. i have been. that KA was cursed from the get go
well, i replaced the HG and thought i had it timed right. lobes were in the right places and it was on TDC. but i think what happened was i may have bent the valve when i was timing it, trying to turn the cam. i turned it over by hand tho a few times and all seemed good.
so i cant really give a definite answer as to what exactly happened, but i can only assume it was user error.

[alms24sebring]

Any idea of how all the coolant got in there? You can always buy a used ka for ~$100 and just drop that in so you can atleast drive it.

[danshaz82]

the coolant was from when i took the head off. didnt drain enough from the block.
and i thought about it, but ive pretty much run out of time/funds. plus ill have a DD in the next few days so its all good haha