my 'not much of a build' build

[danshaz82]

in the process of putting the new head on, and im trying to decide which idler sprocket to use. as far as i can tell, theres no noticeable difference besides some wear on the teeth of the left one and the holes. thats also the one that was originally on the head im putting on. the one on the right is the one that was on the one i just took off. also, it looks much newer than the left one. does it matter which one i should use?

[Razi]

Looks like they're identical so it should be fine to use either.
You can put the gears back to back to make sure they have the same amount of teeth, which I think they do.
I wonder what year they switched the gears. My motor ('93) has the one with speedholes.

[danshaz82]

im guessing older DE's had the solid one. but i know the motor it came off was originally an automagic at one point. i think im just gonna put the old one back on. it came with it originally, so might as well keep it on. plus it has speedholes.

[danshaz82]

s*** a brick when i was torquing down the idler sprocket cause i thought the threads might rip out again.
but all is good! finishing up cleaning little stuff like the cam brackets and and stuff.

[Razi]

Lookin purdy!
I was super worried when I torqued mine down too, since a lot of people seemed to strip them.

[danshaz82]

does this look correct?

1st intake lobe

1st exhaust lobe

[Razi]

Looks about right.
Is the piston TDC too?

[danshaz82]

yeah it is.
not important, but i had to use the old exhaust cam, cause i noticed on the new one that on the 3rd journal it was getting stuck and wouldnt want to turn over. old one works fine tho

[danshaz82]

i never remember which is the right way. see how the end of the dizzy is slotted? which part lines up with #1 on the cap? is it the beginning of it, or is it the middle of it?
right now its lined up with the middle of it touching #1 on the cap. also the marks on the shaft are lined up as well

[Razi]

Looks good mang.

[danshaz82]

better look good!

[danshaz82]

now im getting code 11 which is the CAS. thats it. i quit.
anyone got an extra dizzy lying around?

[Razi]

Well that sucks.

[danshaz82]

i know. and i know exactly what i did to mess it up. took it apart to clean it and check it out, and im ,pretty sure i broke the sensor that reads the disk on the inside. i always do this

[Razi]

I know that feel. I've messed up stuff while trying to clean em.

[danshaz82]

got a new dizzy. it runs, but like s***.
gonna readjust the cams and that s***. can i take off the lower chain tensioner? the one thats like right at the top of the lower chain? cause i wana take the idler sprocket off and adjust it, but holy f*** is it impossible when that tensioner is on.

[Razi]

I think you can.
Just keep and eye on it to see if it tries to slack and jump teeth. I don't think it will though.

[danshaz82]

got it running finally, but not right. idles weird and stumbles/surges. almost like its a miss. throwing code 34 which is the knock sensor.
it actually runs tho, compared to when it wires for the knock sensor were broken. is there a way to test it? cause maybe when i fixed it, i didnt do it well enough

[Razi]

Dunno. You could check for continuity in the wires with a multimeter.
Our Q45's knock sensor harness was totally effed from all the heat and aging.

Were there any hairline cracks on the knock sensor?

[danshaz82]

there shouldnt be. i got it brand new when i started this headache. i did drop it once when i took it off last time tho.
and how exactly would i test that?

[Razi]

I think it needs to have like 550k ohms.
If it's new, it should be fine. Probably something with the harness.

[danshaz82]

i mean how do i actually test it? i dont know what the f*** im doing

[Razi]

You'll need a multimeter, I don't really know how to use one properly. LOL
Mine has a setting that beeps when there is continuity.

[danshaz82]

well theres continuity on the ground side of the main harness but not on the power side

[danshaz82]

i really suck at this.
fixed the knock sensor an its not throwing the code anymore. but its still running like its missing and its shaking alot. i pulled the plugs, which are brand new and correctly gaped, and 1&2 are black. 3&4 look normal. not sure what that means.

but what im thinking is another vac leak from when i took the head off.
could it be fuel related? i unplugged the injectors one by one when it was running, and theyre all working.

[Razi]

Weird.
Have you touched the injectors before? Sometimes the o-rings get pinched as you put them in.

[danshaz82]

yeah i have. i switched rails cause my old one was bent. ill pull it off and check em out.
you think t could be HG related?

[Razi]

Don't think so.
Everything was torqued properly right?

[danshaz82]

i believe it was.
but heres the injectors. the o rings look good form what i can tell. theyre in order 1-2-3-4
you can see the 4 is different than the others. and that its missing 2 of those little plastic prongs. is that a problem?

[Razi]

They look different but the pintle caps function the same.
I believe they don't do much for the spray pattern, and they're just on there to prevent excess fuel from accumulating on the tip, and just dripping off the pintle caps.

Do you have the tiny ground wires on the exhaust side of the head? I think there's a big one towards the front too, near the fuel rail. I don't know if that'd make such a huge difference, but I think a lot of electricals get grounded that way.