Inspiration comes with 505 wheel torque.http://www.leechvideo.com/video/view330977.html
A couple of small front mount turbos would be nice.
240SX VQ Swap - Project S13 V-Spec with VQ30DE from Maxima.
I did some work this morning. Took about an hour and a half just to get a stripped nut off the engine mount. I had to grind it out because the stripped bolt remover tool didn't work.
This is the Maxima A32 flywheel with 1/8" spacer under it.
With spacer under it.
350Z Flywheel with no spacer under it. I used engine oil to get it in smoothly.
Painted engine bay.
KA24DE mount on the Polyeurathane bushing.
This is the Maxima A32 flywheel with 1/8" spacer under it.
With spacer under it.
350Z Flywheel with no spacer under it. I used engine oil to get it in smoothly.
Painted engine bay.
KA24DE mount on the Polyeurathane bushing.
I just got back from test fitting the engine inside the S13 bay. My initial measurements were off by 2 to 4 inches! LoL. Good thing I only tack-welded the mounts.
This is the engine going into the bay.
Closeup of mounts.
Coolant pipe to heater core in the way.
Not anymore.
From the front
Distance from the firewall.
Passenger side. Off by 3 to 4 inches.
Driver side, off by 2 to 3 inches.
Pics were taken with this much clearance from steering. If I clear it better and move it 1 inch forward, the mount needs one inch back.
For the hood clearance.
Modified by Soravia at 7:36 PM 7/23/2008
This is the engine going into the bay.
Closeup of mounts.
Coolant pipe to heater core in the way.
Not anymore.
From the front
Distance from the firewall.
Passenger side. Off by 3 to 4 inches.
Driver side, off by 2 to 3 inches.
Pics were taken with this much clearance from steering. If I clear it better and move it 1 inch forward, the mount needs one inch back.
For the hood clearance.
Modified by Soravia at 7:36 PM 7/23/2008
Re: (Soravia)
Soravia wrote:
DUDE AWESOME JOB!If some one ever mentions a VQ30 wiring harrness I will definitly send this picture their way.
Once the engine is sitting, what is the plan of attack?
The wiring is label is not correct in the inhibitor switch, that should be a forward crank sensor and oil pressure sensor.
The engine mount is still in progress. I moved them backward today but I suspect that I'll have to lower the mounts one and a half inch from the plate and one inch cut back toward the plate. That way I can fit the bushings in between. Even then, I'll still have to cut the bushings short.
After the engine is mounted perfect, I'll put the car back together and try to strip out the interior to get access to wiring under the dash. Then I'll move it to my apartment and cover it or just tow it somewhere and pay storage fees.I'll work on the wiring before moving on to clutch kit and drive-shaft.After that, it's home run to interior swap and paint job.
The radiator will be a job since both pipings are on the driver side.I might have to use an SR aluminum radiator. Right now I have all metal KA radiator on both cars. They weight quite a bit. Using custom aluminum piping to KA radiator is an option. A replacement SR aluminum can run me up to $250, and still need piping.
The engine mount is still in progress. I moved them backward today but I suspect that I'll have to lower the mounts one and a half inch from the plate and one inch cut back toward the plate. That way I can fit the bushings in between. Even then, I'll still have to cut the bushings short.
After the engine is mounted perfect, I'll put the car back together and try to strip out the interior to get access to wiring under the dash. Then I'll move it to my apartment and cover it or just tow it somewhere and pay storage fees.I'll work on the wiring before moving on to clutch kit and drive-shaft.After that, it's home run to interior swap and paint job.
The radiator will be a job since both pipings are on the driver side.I might have to use an SR aluminum radiator. Right now I have all metal KA radiator on both cars. They weight quite a bit. Using custom aluminum piping to KA radiator is an option. A replacement SR aluminum can run me up to $250, and still need piping.
Re: (Soravia)
wow, very nice progress man. seems like you awfully work hard lol!can't wait to see this finished up.i just recently replaced my blown radiator although i didn't go all aluminum due to a budget. just went w/ a koyo rad but i sure would like a griffin or what not...
If thats was your only error then damn still a good job. I would edit it so it is correct.Soravia wrote:The wiring is label is not correct in the inhibitor switch, that should be a forward crank sensor and oil pressure sensor.
Interms of the radiator...I was thinking of cutting the ratiator "inlet" that is near the passangers side and relocating it to the drivers side?
But then I figured you would need each neck to be as opposite of each other inorder to acheve maximum cooling.
But then again some universal radiator hoses and maybe some cuplings should do the job?For the record I would opt to spend the extra $ and get the Koyo...
Awesome job so far! I could imagine how excited you are getting seeing it come together more and more each day!
Re: (G4nismo)
lol i love the grass growing on the floor haha
I've been trying to get the engine mount done but the engine wouldn't stay fixed properly and couldn't really take good measurement by myself. Took a couple of hours of trial and error and got the KA24DE mount grinded down to a tiny piece.It seems like only the tip of the 240sx mount is useful when used with a busing. If I didn't use any bushing, I could have used all of the KA24DE mount.I'll try fitting it in tomorrow.
Here are some pics. The engine bay's width between two support rails is exactly 27.5" If the engine is to be mounted straight. The crank pulley must be at 13.75" from both sides.
The mounts had to be extended to the bottom. This is the only way to work with bushings, stock or poly. If the bushings were to by pass, you can be assured to feel a LOT of viberation. Viberations to the chassis is also bad for the frame.
The mounts had to be extended to the bottom. This is the only way to work with bushings, stock or poly. If the bushings were to by pass, you can be assured to feel a LOT of viberation. Viberations to the chassis is also bad for the frame.
I got some work done today thanks to Jimmy who let me into the warehouse.
I have Super HICAS on my 1991 240sx SE coupe.
WTF is this fuse for? Looks stock.
I have LED Head lights just like an Audi R8. Very useful to work under dash.
Check out the passenger side mount. It's a little off but I'm going to redo it.
Driver side mount. I don't know why the mounts have different lengths, don't ask.
I have Super HICAS on my 1991 240sx SE coupe.
WTF is this fuse for? Looks stock.
I have LED Head lights just like an Audi R8. Very useful to work under dash.
Check out the passenger side mount. It's a little off but I'm going to redo it.
Driver side mount. I don't know why the mounts have different lengths, don't ask.
Re: (Soravia)
^ You need gas and with those lights on your head you will most likely look like a miner of some sort
Once you perfect the mounting hardware I would make a new set to the same exact spec. This way each weld is made only once and you could decied if you want to bend or weld some areas. I am guessing it will make the hardware stronger?(Just a thought I came up with)
Once you perfect the mounting hardware I would make a new set to the same exact spec. This way each weld is made only once and you could decied if you want to bend or weld some areas. I am guessing it will make the hardware stronger?(Just a thought I came up with)
Re:
Very much very interesting project, I wish good luck! Continue to write further, very interestingly! =)
I just test fitted the mounts and they came out near perfect!The reason that passenger side mount is narrower than driver side is because the base of passenger side the mount is half an inch further from the crank.To have the mounts fitted. I had to put the bushings as high as possible, place the passenger side first, set the driver side bushing up-right instead of tilted angle and drop the engine onto it.
Driver side
The center of the crank is a quarter inch off. But attaching the trans will fix it.
Right now. I had the mounts grinded smooth and painted black.
Driver side
The center of the crank is a quarter inch off. But attaching the trans will fix it.
Right now. I had the mounts grinded smooth and painted black.
The mounts painted black.
Driver side measurements.
Passenger side measurements.
Transmission mount before drilling.
Front and rear holes are 2.5" apart from the center.
When you bolt in the transmission with taller bolts, remember to use crush washers to not blow a hole in the engine block.
Key studs between the transmission and engine block.
Attached!
Inside the engine bay. Mounted on the crossmember but the transmission mount needs work. It got late so I'll work on it tomorrow.
Driver side measurements.
Passenger side measurements.
Transmission mount before drilling.
Front and rear holes are 2.5" apart from the center.
When you bolt in the transmission with taller bolts, remember to use crush washers to not blow a hole in the engine block.
Key studs between the transmission and engine block.
Attached!
Inside the engine bay. Mounted on the crossmember but the transmission mount needs work. It got late so I'll work on it tomorrow.
OK I made some progress today in an hour or so.
The Trans mount DOES NOT WORK! Everyone says the thing has to move and extend but IT DOES NOT HAVE TO EXTEND!
Once the engine is placed properly over the cross member and steering rack. The 350Z trans will NEARLY bolt on with stock 240sx trans mount. The only thing would be a centimeter or so difference depending on how far forward or backward the engine is mounted. (Provided that the engine is seated well with the steering rack.)
Here is how far the trans is mounted. The u-joint connector rod is not yet cut.
The trans mount bushing from the 240sx bolts on perfect. I'm using a poly urethane bushing.
The Trans mount DOES NOT WORK! Everyone says the thing has to move and extend but IT DOES NOT HAVE TO EXTEND!
Once the engine is placed properly over the cross member and steering rack. The 350Z trans will NEARLY bolt on with stock 240sx trans mount. The only thing would be a centimeter or so difference depending on how far forward or backward the engine is mounted. (Provided that the engine is seated well with the steering rack.)
Here is how far the trans is mounted. The u-joint connector rod is not yet cut.
The trans mount bushing from the 240sx bolts on perfect. I'm using a poly urethane bushing.
Re: (Soravia)
The easiest way to do the trans mount is to weld in a 1/4" or 1/8" steel plate on the middel of the KA trans mount and Drill two holes in it to fit with the transmission, where ever it is.
Parts needed to complete the project.
Aluminum Drive Shaft350Z Clutch Kit350Z Starter350Z Stock Exhaust ManifoldAlternator BracketAC Compressor BracketAluminum Pulley KitAir Intake Box with temp sensor350Z ShifterCustom Aluminum Coolant Pipes350Z Clutch Slave Cylinder240SX Clutch Master Cylinder & PedalSteel Braided Clutch lines
Aluminum Drive Shaft350Z Clutch Kit350Z Starter350Z Stock Exhaust ManifoldAlternator BracketAC Compressor BracketAluminum Pulley KitAir Intake Box with temp sensor350Z ShifterCustom Aluminum Coolant Pipes350Z Clutch Slave Cylinder240SX Clutch Master Cylinder & PedalSteel Braided Clutch lines
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datsun2401972
- Posts: 540
- Joined: Sun May 21, 2006 10:04 am
- Car: 90 Nissan 240SX XE coupe
Re: (Soravia)
Have you signed up for the castrol syntec engine challenge? Because you definately deserve to win sport compact car's cosworth built vq35de!@#
What's that? My worn engine is not that much of a reliable one at peak power though.
A few bottles of seafoam would change that though. LoL
Actually, I plan to grab a VQ30DE block later on and make a full rebuilt out of it using destroker crank and rods. But thats for much later on, like at least 2 years from now.
A few bottles of seafoam would change that though. LoL
Actually, I plan to grab a VQ30DE block later on and make a full rebuilt out of it using destroker crank and rods. But thats for much later on, like at least 2 years from now.
Re: (Soravia)
just awesome all the job u are doing =)
So I looked under the other S13 I have and sure enough, the Manual KA trans mount has the tips facing the back of the car while the auto transmount has the tips facing the front of the car.
If you're gonna do the swap, save some time and money by buying an auto trans mount cross bar. I know there are plenty of them in classified section.
If you're gonna do the swap, save some time and money by buying an auto trans mount cross bar. I know there are plenty of them in classified section.
I want this 2002 Skyline V35 engine.Quote »Engine Engine Code VQ30DD (NEO Di) Displacement (cc) 2987 Aspiration Naturally Aspirated Max Power 260 ps (191.23 kw) @ 6400 rpm Max Torque 33.0 kg*m (323.62 N*m) @ 4800 rpm Power to Weight Ration 129.20 Engine Type V-6 cylinder DOHC Engine Info (NEO Di) Compression Ratio 11.00 Bore 93.00 Stroke 73.30 [/quote]