240SX VQ Swap - Project S13 V-Spec with VQ30DE from Maxima.

[Soravia]

Have you signed up for the castrol syntec engine challenge? Because you definately deserve to win sport compact car's cosworth built vq35de!@#

I just looked at the specs, the stroked engine isn't really my type. If I were to pick the design. I'd have swapped the crank with a lighter one, destroked the engine and put in stiffer valve springs to have higher RPM high compression 3.0L engine. That would meet the Horse Power per Liter requirement.

Personally, I'd pick the RENESIS for that kind of contest. Just change the intake and exhaust manifolds and Renesis can have really high power output at peak. The engine can also take up to 10,000 easily if build carefully. That would easily make around 300HP at the crank for an engine rated 2.6 liter.

[Soravia]

I didn't know I could do this trick with the Poly bushings!

After 5 hours, I finally got the transmission mount held up by 2 bolts. Notice how I had to butcher that mount. I'll be buying an auto trans mount again soon. Someone please email me if there's any for sale.



The VQ30DE engine and cross-member clearance.

Engine with the intake manifold on. The throttle body didn't clear on the engine, needs to be push up front by 2 inches.

[Soravia]

From the front.

Steering rod clearance.

[Soravia]

How do I get the U-Joint for the shifter off? This pin is not coming out and so far I can't even drill it out.

Starter clearance. My tape measure went AOWL so I had to improvise.

[RCA]

Personally, I'd pick the RENESIS for that kind of contest. Just change the intake and exhaust manifolds and Renesis can have really high power output at peak. The engine can also take up to 10,000 easily if build carefully. That would easily make around 300HP at the crank for an engine rated 2.6 liter.

Um boosted example in that contest gets a 2x displacement penalty. Rotarys get a 3x penaltyBut a all motor Renesis making 300hp is nice but a rb26 making 601hp will win the contest so I dont think using the Renesis is a good ideal.

Things are really comming together, seeing it in the engine bay looks amazing!

[Soravia]

Rotary are calculated as 2X of their capacity. So a 1.3L is counted as 2.6 liter. 3x is their burning in each housing to make a complete turn of the rotor.

Another pic from a 350Z with starter. Nice exhaust. That Z is super charged and intercooled to make 450HP at the wheels.

[meet07]

Mannn you have bigger balls than me to drive that thing rigged up like it is. I wouldnt trust that manifold nor the mounts.

[Soravia]

The manifold is a mock up. The mounts and bushing are a lot stronger than stock.The trans mount is going to get a new one later.

[mrgreeneyes]

Mannn you have bigger balls than me to drive that thing rigged up like it is. I wouldnt trust that manifold nor the mounts.

hahhaa...i just was about to say the same thing... those erector-set motor mounts scare the living **** outta me...

i have to give you at least mild credit for attempting fab work... but seriously, some things (like this outlandish project) are best left to the pros. seriously, your intake might as well be held together with silly putty and and elmers glue. but bro, those "mounts".... have someone make you some REAL ones...

but honestly, prove me wrong. finish this strange-*** endeavor and have it make good power, last 5 years, and you end up not suckling nissans teat for a "ZOMG new rwd turbo coupe". if all 3 of those happen, ill paypal you money to go out for a round of drinks.

but something tells me ill be drinking for ya...

[Soravia]

The engine mounts will probably get a redo later. They are a pain to fit in. I want them to be easily drop in by one hand with the other hand used for lowering the hoist. Now I need help from another person to mount them.

[Soravia]

I made some notes for the Maxima ECU diagram, what to replace and what to delete.

[Soravia]

Mannn you have bigger balls than me to drive that thing rigged up like it is. I wouldnt trust that manifold nor the mounts.

If you take a ride with my daily driving, you'll have 'Oh-****-Handles' in place of your balls.

[datsun2401972]

I just looked at the specs, the stroked engine isn't really my type. If I were to pick the design. I'd have swapped the crank with a lighter one, destroked the engine and put in stiffer valve springs to have higher RPM high compression 3.0L engine. That would meet the Horse Power per Liter requirement.

Yah, I feel ya on the high rpm responsiveness, but they are using cosworth ported heads, which I assure you will flow very well at high rpm. They really don't have any choice but to bore and stroke it because of all the turbocharged entrees that would blow away a stock block vq.

And I think the engine test is more about the area under the curve on the dyno, not just peak hp. It's gonna be a beast either way. They said they were shooting for well over 400hp, considering they had already acheived near 400hp with lower compression and no cam changes.

At this point in your build I would recommend you making a fixture with simple round stock and thick washers welded so that they line up with all the mounting points on your mounts. That's something you could use to get paid for if nothing else

[Soravia]

I'll probably make and sell a complete swap kit (including wiring harness) to pay for a welding unit and small engine hoist.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Okay just a question. All of your mounts are like steel plate welded to steel plate, welded to steel plate. How are those going to take the stress of day to day abuse?

Now that you have a set mocked up you should consider making something with less welds.

I just dont want to see them fail on you.

[Soravia]

Trust me, most things in your car are not even as strong as these welds. Welding is the best thing you can do to make a car strong. Only that it takes too much time or addes too much weight that most car makes just use glue between the seams and smack them together using press machines. Racing people weld their car from pieces to get the best strength.

The only thing that welds are not good for is rust issue and strength under stress to bend. They tend to break instead of bending. But I don't expect the engine to do that to my mounts.

[datsun2401972]

Really, the only thing I would do to put a finishing touch on your mounts are weld a longitudinal gusset with much smaller vertical gussets along it to support any of the side to side motion of the engine.

It would be alot NICER if it was made out of one solid peice along the side of the block, then welded to the "mount bracket" that bolts to the "urethane puck". But like you said, the welds are strong. As long as there's no cracks in it, the base metal will tear before the welds do.

[Soravia]

The back of the mounts are free space. I could use welding in some V shape plates to make it a lot stronger.

As for welding in multiple piece, the thing was a trial and error, plus it was such a pain to try and drill the 1/4" mild steel, let a lone get it done accurately. Machining stronger 1/8" steel would be a good idea.

[datsun2401972]

Hell, I was thinking 1/4 or 5/16ths. But yah, obviously no one understands these are your first mounts. Hell no they won't be perfect the first time. You've been doing what most shops charge thousands of dollars to R&D. By yourself no?

[gadget1382]

Great work so far bud!

I do agree that the mounts do need re-work though. Yes welds increase strength, but as you said cause them to be brittle. This will cause fatigue to the surrounding metal. The vibratons will take care of the rest in terms of cracking to catistrphic failure. = not cool

If you look at http://www.VQ240X.com have a look at his mounts. Thats the way i'll be going.

Teh flywheel was going to be an issue for me (VQ30det) but it seems i might just have to steel your idea. Thanks :p

I think i'll go the 2x4 Navara (Your Xterra i think) which has the shifter located further forward.

Not sure if you've come accross this in your research, but do you know the differences (electrically) the de and det had? I'm still trying to work out the best way of controlling my engine.

Props again dude.

[Soravia]

OK. So I hammered the pin out by sacrificing a screw driver. How do I get the thing off? I tried pulling and twisting. Nothing works!

[sbird1]

I searched SpecD Racing's thread to see if I could find anything to help you, but I came up dry. I'm just writing to subscribe and let you know that I want a ride when it's done! I think I can make a trip to Jacksonville. Haha.

[Soravia]

Be sure to fill up with your cheaper Gerogia gas, it's usually 10 cents more in Jacksonville.

As soon as McCain gets elected, we'll have oil here in Florida and gas will get cheaper for the entire nation. Backyard oil is cheaper than OPEC oil.

[datsun2401972]

There's no snap rings on the inside ears of the u joint?

[Soravia]

The whole thing is supposed to slide out after removing the pin. Not taking the u-joints apart.

[VQ30DET S13]

Did you remove both of the pins?

[VQ30DET S13]

BTW, you should really work on that when it's not in the car. It's ALOT easier.

[Soravia]

LoL, yeah. But I'm racing against time and need the car ready to move real soon. So everything thing else comes after that.

Both pins?? I saw only one pin. More like rolled plate.Here is the little bastard. cut up a bit by my grinder.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Trust me, most things in your car are not even as strong as these welds. Welding is the best thing you can do to make a car strong. Only that it takes too much time or adds too much weight that most car makes just use glue between the seams and smack them together using press machines. Racing people weld their car from pieces to get the best strength.

The only thing that welds are not good for is rust issue and strength under stress to bend. They tend to break instead of bending. But I don't expect the engine to do that to my mounts.

I dunno about all of what your saying. Your talking body welds and tubular race bodys with many pieces welded and reinforcements vs high stress motor mounts. But typically welds break before the metal, or the weld tears from the metal at its weak points.

For example if you take two pieces of metal and weld them int he center and then take a unwelded piece the same size and hit it with a hammer to stimulate stress, the weld will definitely break before that solid piece.

But hey its your prerogative, I just would hate to see one of those snap under heavy load.

[datsun2401972]

But typically welds break before the metal, or the weld tears from the metal at its weak points.

For example if you take two pieces of metal and weld them int he center and then take a unwelded piece the same size and hit it with a hammer to stimulate stress, the weld will definitely break before that solid piece.

I'm afraid you're only partially right there bud. A good quality weld will always be stronger then the base metal. When you see what you think is a weld tearing from the metal, it is actually imperfections in the base metal "around" the weld that is tearing. And in normal use for what a welded part is engineered, it's typically from an improper weld procedure.

You're right about the solid metal plate vs the welded metal plate simply because of the fusion that takes place on the welded plate. But that doesn't mean that he can't make it stronger by welding load supporting gussets.

No doubt the mounts would be stronger if they were primarily made from one single straight piece of flat bar, with gussets and the bushing supported bracket welded on. But hell, this is his first try...and I gotta give him credit for that.