the reason for stretched tires.....pics n stuff

Forum for Nissan wheel fitment, tire selection, suspension setup and brake discussions.
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ArticDragon192
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yokota180sx wrote:Man STFUyou have no clue

about to fall apart, you make me laugh
Lol, it's ok Grant. I like it and in my eyes, you are VIP, lol.


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chitownguy
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Badass man the Cedric looks great.

I was about to get me a 95 LS400 and put bags on it and an exhaust like that. But then I realized I only had enough money for the car haha.

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AZhitman
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LS400 is a chump car. Better buy some Grecian Formula and some plaid pants to drive one of those toads around.

Cedric - Whoops, my bad.

But seriously G, lose the hose clamps. That's ghetto as hell, like someone I know who used washers for spacers.

yokota180sx
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ill fix it eventually, just gotta find the time and ideas. it worls for nowi put 2 more on there for security, and .40 safety wire double stranded, its not commming off

What i prolly will do, is cut the pipe at the back so it can move over about an inch or two, add pipe, weld on, then make hangers

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AZhitman
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Makes sense.

I'd love to see that car stateside - You'd cause a shatstorm of disruption rollin' through rural SC in that thing, LOL.

yokota180sx
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**** that MB all the way

RB20DETodd
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yokota180sx wrote: .40 safety wire double stranded, its not commming off
BLING!

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hannibal
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ddgsxr504 wrote:Shouldn't you want to run the widest tires possible? Better grip, better look. I will say that there is a point where it gets to be too much like putting 19's on a 240/Silvia ect.
Yes, you'd want the widest grippiest tire possible. But yokota puts more emphasis on the wheel at the expense of the tire. IMO, thats where this wheel thing goes overboard. For instance, reducing the wheel's width or using a slightly higher offset would allow less-stretched tires, but he seems to NEED that extra half inch of width and every last mm of offset.

Like a 240 with R34 tails, I can appreciate the work involved in fitting those wheels, but I just dont agree with the final result.

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AmoebAssassin
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hannibal wrote:Yes, you'd want the widest grippiest tire possible. But yokota puts more emphasis on the wheel at the expense of the tire. IMO, thats where this wheel thing goes overboard. For instance, reducing the wheel's width or using a slightly higher offset would allow less-stretched tires, but he seems to NEED that extra half inch of width and every last mm of offset.

Like a 240 with R34 tails, I can appreciate the work involved in fitting those wheels, but I just dont agree with the final result.
Wider tires don't mean more grip.

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keith0486
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i dont think thats going to fall apart anytime soon them straps hold wicked good

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hannibal
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AmoebAssassin wrote:Wider tires don't mean more grip.

TrunkMonkey
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the same way wider wheels doesn't mean better fitment.

-demetrius

yokota180sx
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yeah beacause a 8 inch wide wheel makes PERFECT fitment

what a horrible attempt to make a witty comeback

Fitment is all about the widest, lowest offset.

TrunkMonkey
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yokota180sx wrote:Fitment is all about the widest, lowest offset.
and after reading through some of the more recent threads in this forum, i'm starting to believe that fitment is just like being flush...it's just a matter of opinion.

-demetrius
Modified by TrunkMonkey at 6:16 PM 7/8/2007

datsun2401972
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I'm just gonna qoute a book of mine called "How to make your car handle", by Fred Puhn.

"For best traction and cornering power you want the widest possible tread."
yokota180sx wrote:what you cant see, cant hurt you
Did I read somewhere this guy is an aircraft mechanic?....scary......

yokota180sx
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yeah, does it make you scared that im an aircraft mechanic?Truth is, everything i do i know is secure, and will work

Can you say for a 100% certanty when you do something, yuo KNOW it will work the first time?I can with damn near everything i doIf i say i can fit a 215/40 on a 10 inch wide wheel, i canIf i say XXX will workIt will because i have done it on my own car, or helped on another

say what you want, but the truth is, ive dont more diverse automotive things than most people on this forum (not a smash, or a putdown, just the truth)Ive built show cars that were featured in online mags, local mags, calendars Autocross cars that have won at every Meet i drove them atDrag cars that ran low 12sdrift cars i tracked, and got 2nd place inand now VIP

Ive had my hand in almost every aspect of automotive tuning except dedicated circuit, which will most liekly be my next endeavour, where No, there iwll not be 18x10 negative offset wheels onDifferent things require different applications, i understand this

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AZhitman
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datsun2401972 wrote:I'm just gonna qoute a book of mine called "How to make your car handle", by Fred Puhn.

"For best traction and cornering power you want the widest possible tread."
I'm gonna quote the teacher from The Waterboy:

"Folks, Mama's (or Fred's) wrong again!"

Not true.

There's SO much more that goes into handling, straight-line traction, and cornering grip.

Compound is a TON more important than tread width.

Internal construction is a TON more important than tread width.

Suspension setup is a TON more important than tread width.

I won't go into all the physics here, but think about this:

With the weight of a car remaining constant, and a tire being 185mm wide or 295mm wide, which do you think has the larger overall contact patch?

Answer?

Neither. They're just differently-shaped.

BTW, that book sucks. It was written in the bias-ply tire era.

Here's a review:

The book has two major flaws.

First, it's horribly outdated. The copyright date is 1981, and the I have the 32nd printing; but it seems like the book was never revised since its publication. I began amusing myself by guessing which companies and suppliers mentioned in the book were no longer in business, and finding which products were no longer manufactured.

The book mentions some specific measurements and values, but discusses no car newer than 1979 or 1980. Some tables (such as the list of wheel bolt patterns) don't mention a car newer than 1975! While the hard statistics and tables which discuss specific models might be interesting to someone doing restorations or who is a vintage racer, they're of no use to anyone who's racing modern cars. Even if an older model of your car is listed, it's probably been redesigned enough to make dimensions (if not the advice itself) obsolete.

There are some innovations that the book doesn't even mention. For example, the section on tires doesn't discuss metric tire sizes (where the section width and aspect ratio are explicitly given, like 255-50R15) and instead includes tables that show the depricated tire size codes (where the section width is designated by a letter, as B50-15).

The book includes between zero and little advice on modern suspension tuning techniques. There's no mention of corner-balancing and cross-weighting in the book. The section on pyrometer use for diagnosing a car's handling is less than half a page long and includes a couple of flaws. One of them is suggesting that the "ideal" setting results in equal temperatures across the surface of the tire; modern directional tires are built to let the inside edge to more work, so the tire will run hotter towards the inside.

Most of these issues are forgivable in a book that's old. But they're somewhat compounded by the author's shallow treatment of other handling issues. There are impressive graphs and some simple formulae throughout, but the shallow treatment of the book is too tightly applied to the outdated parts and designs. You can read this book and learn about ride height and center of gravity, but the explanation is tied to double-link suspensions. How can you apply the author's advice to your modern car, with its MacPhereson strut system, or an independent suspension?

In some areas, the tuning advice is laughable. The book says that "the method for arriving at the best shock setting is a matter of trial-and-error". The author suggests setting the bump and rebound of shock absorbers to "the softest settings". Then, "drive the car and note the amount of wheel hop over the bumps ... increasing the bump setting until wheel hop is reduced to a minimum." And that's where the advice ends. How can a driver measure wheel hop? Should the driver really leave the rebound setting at its softest possible setting? If so, then what's the point of using a double-adjustable shock? What about using bump and rebound to cure mid-corner and corner-exit handling problems?

I think that it's easy to find more modern books on suspension tuning, and to get better advice for your car's modifications. This book is inexpensive, and might earn a place on your reference shelf just because it's half the price of some other books on the same subject. And someone resotring an older car might find the dated information useful (though little advice contained here is appropriate for the drag racer) as might someone who is restoring an older car. But the book isn't interesting for a modern road-course racer or street tuner.

RB20DETodd
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AZhitman wrote:Makes sense.

I'd love to see that car stateside - You'd cause a shatstorm of disruption rollin' through rural SC in that thing, LOL.

Grant, if you lived near me I'd weld that thing up right.

Get those damn clamps off there or your Baller Card is revoked.

p.s. The Cima is looking SICK.
dude whens it my turn to swing on his sack again? quit hogin all the sack swinging time!!!!

WidebodyZ
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why is there so many clueless people in here?

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AZhitman
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Trust me, Grant and I disagree on enough stuff that there's no sack-swinging here.

Besides, I hear you use teeth!

RB20DETodd
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AZhitman wrote:Trust me, Grant and I disagree on enough stuff that there's no sack-swinging here.

Besides, I hear you use teeth!
damn right you bettah recognize IM welding his exhaust on! not you!

yokota180sx
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i liek teeth

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Beancooker
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datsun2401972 wrote:I'm just gonna qoute a book of mine called "How to make your car handle", by Fred Puhn.

"For best traction and cornering power you want the widest possible tread."
If you have a 2000 lb car, and put on 325 wide tires, you will slide out of control a lot easier than if that same 2000 lb car had 235's on it.

A lot has to do with the proper amount of weight being put to the proper sized contact patch, and all that is also relavant to what the tire compound is made of.

yokota180sx
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iT ALSO has alot to do with people that haev no clue, going to their public library, or reading superstreet, lerning from outdated, or other people that have no clue.

Me, i learn from firsthand. I dont read books, magazines and ****. I just go do it.

datsun2401972
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AmoebAssassin wrote:Wider tires don't mean more grip.
I guess I shouldn't send a simple reply for a simple statement.

There's no question that more goes into the gripping capacity of a car than just the size of the contact patch. I assure you I realize that.

I do know however, that increasing the width of a tire while using the appropriate sized wheel will increase the contact patch(all other factors remaining constant). If that doesn't change the coefficient of friction I must be loosing my sense of logic.

I read that review and many others before I purchased that book. I also knew it was dated literature, but some priciples are timeless.

And thanks for qouting The Waterboy, it helps me visualize piledriving yokota everytime he opens his mouth lol.....I love that movie....
Modified by datsun2401972 at 11:49 PM 7/8/2007

datsun2401972
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Not really I guess...I know alot of aircraft mechanics that know everything's right the first time they do it.

I also know alot of retired aircraft mechanics that know better. Everybody makes mistakes...so get over yourself.

datsun2401972
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Are you saying that wider tires have less progressive breakaway characteristics or that a wider tire with an appropriately sized wheel will infact decrease grip?

datsun2401972
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yokota180sx wrote:I dont read books, magazines and ****. I just go do it.
You just earned my Redneck Rigger in Japan award....wow...it's amazing isn't it.

WidebodyZ
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datsun2401972 wrote:You just earned my Redneck Rigger in Japan award....wow...it's amazing isn't it. :
You just earned my I'm an eccentric poser who drives one of my favorite cars award. I'm sorry for your S30 and its' well being (or is it just a creative screen name?). Don't take it personally, you seem to like excessively grammatical retorts.
datsun2401972 wrote:But 9 seconds straight gets old faster than getting sideways does
uhm, yah sure....so why should we listen to you again?

datsun2401972
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Don't feel sorry for my s30, it's caged.

And you might listen to me because I drive a 9 second nova occasionally.

Just because others need excessive grammar to retort doesn't mean I like it lol...

But seriously, I find the intricacies of a road course so much more stimulating than going in a straight line, tryin' to "keep it in the groove". Of course that in no way diminishes my love for drag racing or my respect for the professionals and hobbyists!


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