The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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92240sxin wrote:yeah they both stay up all the time. i just got a power probe so im going to push power to the motors and hopefully its just a fuse or relay. i also have a problem with my audio system. me headlights dim when my sub hits. i added a capacitor but the still dim. where should i add a better ground wire? straight from the negitive terminal to the frame?
I'd add grounds from your engine to firewall, and an extra from battery to chassis. Outside that, your alternator might be plain getting tired.
92240sxin wrote:i just pushed power to both headlight motors and the work fine. im guessing its the relay or fuse but im not quite sure where that is.
I'm not sure either. Poke around the fuse boxes, or check out the factory service manual:

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/


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speedeast
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Image
Image
There are 4 headlamp retraction relays.

Possible Fix:
how-to-fix-your-headlight-problems-t280461.html

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PapaSmurf2k3
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^That's some solid information right there. Thanks for posting.

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240sxcl50
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ok so im just curious is there a stronger replacement for 1995-98 wheel bearings?

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speedeast
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Not really.

92240sxin
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awesome info man. gonna go pull some relays from the junkyard and hope they workk. Thanks alot

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OutToWinPAHC
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240sxcl50 wrote:ok so im just curious is there a stronger replacement for 1995-98 wheel bearings?
OEM's last a long time.... as for stronger.... I dont see where your going

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PapaSmurf2k3
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5 lug > 4 lug?
If you consider the wheel studs as being part of the bearing.

92240sxin
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well i put new relays in and still nothing with the headlight motors. i also replaced the switch to the left of the steering wheel that is supposed to bring headlights up or down. i guess my next step is to remove my headlight switch and clean it like in the thread above.

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ZEB808
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I'm new here and I have a simple question??? I have a 1997 240SX USDM Kouki. I'm looking at buying a JDM front bumper. Will the JDM bumper mount to my USDM support brackets? Also how does the lighting get configured on the signal lights...

mechanicalmoron
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So, driving 70, in 5th. Car starts shaking VERY HARD, like being repeatedly hit, unless I let off the throttle, or go down a hill. I limp to town at higher RPM to help avoid shake, and go to auto zone, and once I'm going slow it seems apparent I have a miss. I notice that pulling the plug wire on cyl2 makes no change in idle, so I do all the plugs. No change. Car is hardly drivable, motor rocks hard on mounts, even idling or just turning over.

So, I lost all compression on 2? Having had to go 30 miles or so after that, is that motor still rebuildable? Or would that cylinder be f***? COULD it be an injector? I jiggled the wire to make sure it was on, and have periodically run seafoam, I wouldn't think it would be jammed, at 200k could it just fail? Or is that wishful thinking?

Unfortionatly the car isn't here, so I can't try anything at the moment, I had to leave it.

Also my valve cover breather isn't blowing more than usual, must be piston rings? Smoke SEEMS to have stopped, I guess my other 3 are fine and it's been him all along.

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240sxcl50
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Ok so iv researched the z32 brake swap but im having a mental block for the rear where it talks about using the z32 hubs if doing the 5 lug. i already have the 5 lug swap done to the car so do i need the z32 hub?

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240sxcl50
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:
240sxcl50 wrote:ok so im just curious is there a stronger replacement for 1995-98 wheel bearings?
OEM's last a long time.... as for stronger.... I dont see where your going
i like to drift and i know that doesn't help them but it seems like they're going out quick could it be something with the car?

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OutToWinPAHC
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mechanicalmoron wrote:So, driving 70, in 5th. Car starts shaking VERY HARD, like being repeatedly hit, unless I let off the throttle, or go down a hill. I limp to town at higher RPM to help avoid shake, and go to auto zone, and once I'm going slow it seems apparent I have a miss. I notice that pulling the plug wire on cyl2 makes no change in idle, so I do all the plugs. No change. Car is hardly drivable, motor rocks hard on mounts, even idling or just turning over.

So, I lost all compression on 2? Having had to go 30 miles or so after that, is that motor still rebuildable? Or would that cylinder be f***ed? COULD it be an injector? I jiggled the wire to make sure it was on, and have periodically run seafoam, I wouldn't think it would be jammed, at 200k could it just fail? Or is that wishful thinking?

Unfortionatly the car isn't here, so I can't try anything at the moment, I had to leave it.

Also my valve cover breather isn't blowing more than usual, must be piston rings? Smoke SEEMS to have stopped, I guess my other 3 are fine and it's been him all along.
Id check to see if your getting spark here, pull the plug rest it against the block and look for spark as you crank it. Also check to make sure your getting fuel too. Find the issue and then see what it does. Also try a compression test if you think you have issues.

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OutToWinPAHC
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240sxcl50 wrote:Ok so iv researched the z32 brake swap but im having a mental block for the rear where it talks about using the z32 hubs if doing the 5 lug. i already have the 5 lug swap done to the car so do i need the z32 hub?
Nope your good

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OutToWinPAHC
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240sxcl50 wrote:i like to drift and i know that doesn't help them but it seems like they're going out quick could it be something with the car?
Sure if they are old and worn and replaced by used or cheap ebay hubs. The Hubs are fine on these cars, they last 100-150K under normal driving. Just rebuild them with quality bearings, OEM if you can.

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Speckid4
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I'm in the middle of swap and was curious about the amps on the alternator I'm going to need. Most small block chevy alternators operate with 100-120 amps. So I guess my question is how many amps do I put out now/need? My car was originally a 95 auto w/ security system (doesn't work anymore). I plan on using all of the stock electronics. I'm just getting into wiring, so I don't know much.

danshaz82
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can i use a 300zx slave cylinder on the KADE trans?
if so, are there any benefits from it or does it not matter

FiftyPlusSXer
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Hi guys and girls. Yes, I'm new here..... and I'm not a car guy so please excuse my ignorance. My question: I want to change the rims on my 1995 240sx se however, I actually like seeing the Nissan logo on my rims. I want to put 2008 Nissan Altima 17", 7.5" width,(62485) rims on my car. Will they fit without any modifications? Any suggestion for other 17" nissan rims (don't wanna go any larger) would be appreciated. Thanks.

Greg

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biggie
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Almost any Nissan 5 lug rim will work. Its just the matter of how it looks to you. Most FWD cars have very high offsets (especially newer cars) and the wheel/tire will look sunken in on the 240sx.

I would search google and see if you can find examples of the wheels you want on a S14, to see if you like it. And find out the offset of those wheels to be sure they wouldn't hit the shock (doubt you would have this issue).

FiftyPlusSXer
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biggie, thanks! I forgot about the FWD/RWD difference. I will have to take that into consideration.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Speckid4 wrote:I'm in the middle of swap and was curious about the amps on the alternator I'm going to need. Most small block chevy alternators operate with 100-120 amps. So I guess my question is how many amps do I put out now/need? My car was originally a 95 auto w/ security system (doesn't work anymore). I plan on using all of the stock electronics. I'm just getting into wiring, so I don't know much.
Generally a stock replacement will be fine. I think they are only like 60-90 amps. If you beef up the audio system with amps and subs, then you're going to want more (100+).

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PapaSmurf2k3
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danshaz82 wrote:can i use a 300zx slave cylinder on the KADE trans?
if so, are there any benefits from it or does it not matter
I want to say you can... in fact it might even be the same part number. I'm not entirely sure on that though.

danshaz82
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
danshaz82 wrote:can i use a 300zx slave cylinder on the KADE trans?
if so, are there any benefits from it or does it not matter
I want to say you can... in fact it might even be the same part number. I'm not entirely sure on that though.
i was doing some poking around but didnt really find a definite answer.
but from what i saw, the z31 fits.
i believe that the z32 fits the KAE because they have the same cylinder bore.

benman88
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I have a 93 S13 Auto trans and want to do the manual swap without cutting wires and all that. Is my ecu interchangable with the manual trans harness, or would i need to get a manual trans ecu?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You can keep the auto ECU. As a bonus, you will no longer have a speed limiter!

benman88
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Sweet, thanks for the info. Now to find a manual harness....

benman88
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I guess I should also ask if an s14 manual trans will work with an s13 harness?

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OutToWinPAHC
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yes

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biggie
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Would need the sensors to match the harness/cluster though (like S13 5spd speed sensor in the S14 transmission).


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