The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
Location: Orlando, Fl

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I got my micrometer from harbor freight and I just tested it's accuracy and it was good. I check it before I use it. If you have an expensive one, you're still supposed to test it before you use it.


mechanicalmoron
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When you take off the lower radiator hose mount thing to change thermostats, does ALL the coolant drain? I saw a how-to where it looked more like a dribble, but I would expect more, it's down there and all. Should I just take the chance to flush and change coolant?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Why would you pull the lower hose off the radiator to change the thermostat? Just pull the hose off the gooseneck.

Yes, you should change the coolant at that time anyway.

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speedeast
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+1

Only the coolant at a higher elevation to the gooseneck is going to pour out.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Why would you pull the lower hose off the radiator to change the thermostat? Just pull the hose off the gooseneck.

Yes, you should change the coolant at that time anyway.
I thought the gooseneck that the hose fits over itself bolts over the thermostat?

Anyways, I'll just flush n' whatnot at that time I guess.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah it does... you can even leave it on the goosneck and unbolt everything I suppose.

bobdallama85
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Joined: Sat Dec 10, 2011 6:47 pm
Car: 1991 240sx fastback manual ka24de

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Ok, So I'm new here...

not a total noob, but my father (who is a mechanic) and I have run out of ideas, and my local repair shop is stumped also.

THE CAR:1991 240sx ka24de manual trans. everything is stock

THE PROBLEM:The engine has been running extremely rough. At idle, it is enough to shake the entire car. At speed, it is less pronounced, but has a noticeable power deficiency. When coasting, it smooths out quite nicely, but as soon as throttle is applied it runs ragged and underpowered. To date, I have replaced the following - fuel injectors, plugs and wires on all cylinders, distributor cap and rotor. None of these had any effect. Each injector has been tested for resistance, and they all tested the same. Compression test came back 140 psi on each cylinder (i believe. it may have been 130, it's hard to remember. Whatever it was, I know it was consistent on all 4). Timing is good, and even though the upper guide for the chain did break off and was bouncing around before I got around to pulling it, it didn't seem to do any damage. Each plug is getting the fire signal, and the injectors are working, but I have nothing happening in the last cylinder against the firewall. I think I have covered all my bases so far, but if there is anything I have missed, please let me know and I'll see if I can find that out.

my next step from here is either going for the ECU, or maybe the coil pack, but I cannot afford to keep throwing money and hoping I'll hit the problem.

I have owned this car for 7 years, and although I had a few other cars before it, i consider this to be my *first* car. Got it for $1400 and have put 80k miles on it, but I don't want to give up on her yet. It was running great just before this, and then it just started one day after a fill up. It was so out of the blue, I figured it HAD to be bad gas...the rest, as they say, is history...

any and all suggestions are appreciated!

oh, and her name is Natalie, if that helps :naughty:

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speedeast
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Start a thread here with your problem:
240sx-technical-forum.html

You mentioned that you're getting nothing in the #4 cylinder? What do you mean exactly? Also, compression is way low on all cylinders. It is supposed to be right around 180 psi.

You can get some of these problems with a bad MAF, a bad TPS, a bad CTS, etc. Whatever is causing the compression to be low is definitely also capable of these symptoms. Warped head, damaged piston rings, failed head gasket, incorrect timing, and damaged valves are all possible. A piece of that chain guide could have lodge in a cam sprocket and made it jump a tooth. Stranger things have happened.

Good luck.

bobdallama85
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Car: 1991 240sx fastback manual ka24de

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thanks for the quick response. will go ahead and post in the appropriate forum. i should mention that when i first start the car, the engine runs fine for about 30 seconds or so, then begins to deteriorate. should that give me reason to think maybe it isn't a mechanical issue, i.e. head, rings or gasket? also, when i pulled the chain guide, all pieces are accounted for. it was a clean break, and i pulled it out in tact. Timing is good, I verified that. A little stumped as to the low compression. I may run it again to make sure it was done correctly.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah I'd check compression again.

There isn't any check engine light on? You might want to put the ECM in diagnostic mode just to make sure your bulb isn't blown out or anything, and pull any codes that are in there.

I wonder why your upper timing chain guide broke off...
How are you verifying timing? Both Ignition and valve.

bobdallama85
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Car: 1991 240sx fastback manual ka24de

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used this guide to check timing: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/adjust ... 240sx.html

don't know why the guide broke off, but it loked like the chain was rubbing against it somehow...i will take a pic of what it looked like after i pulled it. hopefully I'll get a chance to check compression again this weekend, but it's been a bit cold outside recently and i dont have a garage :frown:

no engine light either. would it typically light up when you start the car, to let you know it works? i can't remember ever seeing it...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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yeah if you key-on without starting the car, it should light up.

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speedeast
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Might be time to check for trouble codes...

http://www.240sx.org/faq/articles/ecm_codes_doch.htm

I love how the link has "doch" instead of "dohc."

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KABO5e
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Car: 1991 hatch-rebuilding to stock

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I’ve got two transmissions for a KA24de. Both of the input shafts spin freely, but one has a noticeable amount of endplay, where the other doesn’t. Is the endplay supposed to be there, or is this a sign of a worn transmission?

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speedeast
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excessive play is a sign of a wearing transmission

qbano12
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 5:26 pm
Car: 240sx s13

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Hey im new to the tunning world and was wondering what would be the best types of brands for a full engine build. I have a sr20det motor in my 240sx s13 hatch already has aftermarket cams but i want to finish the motor. i bout the car from a guy who is in love with 240 and he did the work that is done to it now but now i would like to complete what he started so some pointers would be very helpful sense this is my first 240. its somthing that cuaght my eye and now i would love to become a huge nissan gear head thankyou.

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speedeast
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Brands? The best builds are different brands pieced together depending on function, budget, and goals. Everybody has different favorites. You can browse through the "240sx General Discussion" section and you can see others' builds/projects and what parts they're using. People are usually pretty good about mentioning their upgrades.

240sx-180sx-silvia-forum.html

epik1
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Car: 1996 240SX

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new here and I have no idea why I waited so long to register, I've always found myself ending up here whenever I'm googling things for my S14 lol!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Well welcome to NICO then!

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S14Kouki10
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Car: 1997 240sx
Location: TX

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Could you tell if this is a helical lsd by these?
Image
Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I can't... I've never cracked a helical pumpkin open. Sorry mang.

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allenms240
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:All my calipers are from harbor freight. :(
Do they have the accuracy to .0001 like we need for blueprinting motors?


Also another question, the girly's car was misfiring. I figured out it was misfiring on cylinder four. There was oil in all the spark plug wells, (next day off the valve cover gasket and spark wells gaskets are going to be replaced). But I tried to take out the spark plug, and it was very, very rough. I didn't want to keep turning it because I was afraid of snapping the plug inside the head. So it turns, but very slowly, and I need a breaker bar to get enough torque on it. I don't ever remember tightening a sucker on that tight. What do you suggest I do. I was thinking of one day just spraying some wd-40 in there and let it soak down, then give it another go. I don't know any other option, so I wanted to get your opinions.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, try a penetrating oil of some kind. If that doesn't work, try it with the engine hot and pray you don't strip the threads.

The harbor freight caliper is accurate to .01mm.

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240sxcl50
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im looking for an sr20det and i was wondering where one of the most reputable and cheeper places to get one is? I did see the thread for where to buy your motor but alot of the links dont work anymore so thats why i am asking here.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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http://www.phase2motortrend.com/motors.html

^That's a NICO sponsor that has been with us for a LONG time. I've never heard anything bad about them.

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240sxcl50
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they only sell front clips though?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Not sure. Contact them and ask them :)

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Drifting10
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Location: St.Joseph Illinois
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Hey guys I have a simple question. Searched both here and tootle for a while with no real luck. But basically all I wanna know is 1 what this line is? Its a hard line into a soft line I believe I followed it back to around the gas tank but idk. 2 why is it blocked off and 3 can it be removed for cleaning up the bay? Thanks to who ever can help me.
Image

MichaelOverbaugh
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:04 pm
Car: Hoping to get 240sx soon

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So I am gonna be getting a 240sx with a sr20det engine, and will have about 5k after to spend towards it, what can i get with that much money to increase horsepower by at least 50horses?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Drifting10 wrote:Hey guys I have a simple question. Searched both here and tootle for a while with no real luck. But basically all I wanna know is 1 what this line is? Its a hard line into a soft line I believe I followed it back to around the gas tank but idk. 2 why is it blocked off and 3 can it be removed for cleaning up the bay? Thanks to who ever can help me.
Image
It LOOKS like the vent tube from the charcoal canister. Does it just sort of go into the frame rail/outside the engine bay? You can remove it.


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