The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So I am gonna be getting a 240sx with a sr20det engine, and will have about 5k after to spend towards it, what can i get with that much money to increase horsepower by at least 50horses?

5 large is quite the chunk of money to play with. I'd start by getting into reliable running condition. After that, bigger injectors, bigger turbo, front mount intercooler (if it doesn't have it already), boost controller and a tune will get you nice gains. Even after that you'll have money to burn on clutch/flywheel and rear diff if you need it. Get good tires too.

[Drifting10]

Smurf yea it goes back to the firewall up and over to the pass side with the break lines down the pass side then straight back to the rear along the pass frame rail then up again over the rear end then I lose it.....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Really?! The only thing that goes down there (that I know of) are brake lines and fuel lines. I guess it could be a vapor return to the tank...

[Drifting10]

Smurf you sir were right. Searched threw a bunch of pages on google images tweeked the search and this came up.
http://www.sfl240sx.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8229

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Good deal. You don't have to call me sir... it makes me feel old. I'm only 26 haha.

[JdmFc_90]

Hello everyone, not really that new here but I never got to post my simple question so here it is...I need to drill out the spot welds on my car. What size spot weld bit remover should I use ? Thank you in advance !

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I've always just used either a step bit drill, or held one up to the spot weld to see if its big enough.

[speedeast]

^+1

[mechanicalmoron]

What's the line from the intake, before the mafs? Would it be worth the ten bucks (and flow enough) to put a lil' valve cover breather filter on it?

Also, cruise works fine when it comes on, which is becomming quite rare. It turns on but won't set coast. Where do the clutch and shift switch wires plug into, so I can diagnose there, instead of cutting and making a mess at the switch?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Not sure what line you're talking about. Before the MAF meaning closer to the throttle body, or closer to the air filter?

I'm also not sure about the wires you're talking about, but I'm sure they'd be in the FSM.

[mechanicalmoron]

Not sure what line you're talking about. Before the MAF meaning closer to the throttle body, or closer to the air filter?

I'm also not sure about the wires you're talking about, but I'm sure they'd be in the FSM.

Between the filter and mafs. It looks like it joins near the exhaust, after going through a plastic box and a few bends?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Ah, the famed AIV valve or PAIR valve as some call it.
Yeah, that f*** is useless. The hose goes into the airbox before the air filter, so you can remove ALL of it and not worry about putting a filter on the air box.
If you choose to disconnect the pipe from your exhaust, you'll have to plug it somehow. Word has it you can cut the pipe, keep the fastener, and jam a nickel or 2 into the hole and re-tighten the fastener on it to kill the leak.

[charat]

Hello everyone.

I have a quick question. What is a reasonable price to get a block/engine machined? I'm planning to hone and overbore to .020 over. i'm wondering what a reasonable price is. I'm in NorCal Bay Area if that helps any. thanks!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well, if you drop off a short block, and expect a short block back that has been refreshed (new bearings, piston rings, bore, hone, hot tanked, etc), expect to pay about $1200.

[charat]

Oh i'm planning on doing this on a stock KA24DE btw. i'll be doing the rebuild myself... so basically bore, hone, and hot tank i guess.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Ok... I think the bore is what cost the most when I got everything done... I want to say it was around $300-$400. So figure with everything else, around $500-600?

[speedeast]

^Depends on where you are...

I took my engine to a machine shop upstate in New York where they specialize in V8 racing engines. I had all 32 valves done, resurfacing, hot tank on the block and both heads, had everything checked for spec, cylinders honed (very slightly, they were close to perfect), and they put a set of new hastings piston rings, rod bearings, and thrust washers on the ticket. They did a flawless job, and my bill was $560.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

^Hey do you happen to know of any good mechanics in Orlando?
a guy in this thread is looking for one:
help-with-2004-senta-t537468.html

[speedeast]

Me, duh.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Oh I didn't know you ran a repair shop... hopefully this guy brings some business to you and you bring some fixed car back to him
Thanks!

[Hellion240sx]

looking to fit 225/50/15 on s14 with 15x8 +20 or +0 stock height. tried looking for pics, found some. but not enough info as in what tires were used, suspension mods, fender mods etc. looked on other forums as well as google

[mechanicalmoron]

When accelerating, I get acceleration in waves, this is more pronounced at high throttle settings, but with careful attention, can be noticed at any, even sometimes while maintaining speed, though it's subtle.

I think this would be my egr, but all i even know is the name. I know I have some vaccum issues, with a pinched and probably cracked hose ( the one that enters right before the TB, and not the valve cover, i have that capped and vented to atmosphere) and the smallest hose on the carbon can is broken off, capped the hose and couldn't get anything to stay on the broken nipple on the canister.

So, should I start going after lines? I don't mind removing or modifying it, but must be able to swiftly restore full emissions gear. Also, I hear that I'll run rich(er) without it, though I wouldn't think much, since exhaust gas should have little oxygen in it anyways.

[speedeast]

Hellion240sx: try rimtuck.com

mechanicalmoron: Your EGR only actually does anything at a certain point on the RPM band, not going to affect you all throughout. Vacuum leaks can cause some problems, especially if you're using air that's not metered. It'll lean out and you'll get some detonation and probably even misfires. Plugs could be fouled and missing at times. I would definitely start with fixing your vacuum though.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yup, running lean tends to give you "lean surge".

Definitely fix the vacuum leaks. The one right next to the throttle body is the idle air control valve inlet. Without sucking in metered air there, you most likely have a massive vacuum leak causing the car to run like poop all the time. I'm surprised it even idles. I bet your gas mileage is fantastic though.

[mechanicalmoron]

Yup, running lean tends to give you "lean surge".

Definitely fix the vacuum leaks. The one right next to the throttle body is the idle air control valve inlet. Without sucking in metered air there, you most likely have a massive vacuum leak causing the car to run like poop all the time. I'm surprised it even idles. I bet your gas mileage is fantastic though.

Ehh it idles well, I think. Other than the timing guide and an occasional tap.

Milage is actually pretty good, which is fine with me, I drive 90+ miles in the thing every weekday. I've heard it do what I (being a moron at this) think is miss maybe once ever.

Anyways, I'll go after that vaccum hose and see what happens. This motor only has a limited time left anyways. I'm using thick oil and plenty of lucas oil conditioner, which used to help the smoke, but it's getting worse again, and I have to start 20w50 in 25 degrees every morning, can't be good.

[92240sxin]

hey i have a question about my some electrical problems in my car. my headlights they used to go up and down all the time but now they both stay up and wont go down. ive replaced with switch with a couple from the junk yard but that hasnt worked. whats my nexxt step? ive also had some trouble recentally with my driver side seatbelt. it used to work all the time but now it works at random. could all this be caused by a bad ground?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Do both lights stay up all the time? It could be a fuse or something. I've never messed with them, but I guess you could try powering the motors directly to see if they still work. If not, replace the motors. You can always turn them up and down manually too if you'd like (although that would be a pain if you do it daily).

The seatbelts are under a lifetime warranty. The dealer should be able to take care of that for you.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/are-yo ... -free.html

[speedeast]

There is a relay for your headlight motors, check that.

[92240sxin]

yeah they both stay up all the time. i just got a power probe so im going to push power to the motors and hopefully its just a fuse or relay. i also have a problem with my audio system. me headlights dim when my sub hits. i added a capacitor but the still dim. where should i add a better ground wire? straight from the negitive terminal to the frame?

[92240sxin]

i just pushed power to both headlight motors and the work fine. im guessing its the relay or fuse but im not quite sure where that is.