Would that be diff or transmission?PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:75w90
ok look on ebay for the restrctor they are like 5 bucks typen in sr20 t25 restictor, an you can go to o'reillys an make the lines you need for the feed an on the drain just a 1/2 barb welded to the side of the oil pan an you can get a oil filter sandwitch to plug in the feed lined they are like 20 bucks on ebay.nismoracingsx wrote:Ok. Am currently making a go at KA-T. I have most of my parts minus some gaskets/couplers and my oil line plumbing..
I've searched plenty. I know about the JGS kit, though I'm not as impressed w/ their price and the fact that their extension for the bottom mount t25 ka-t is a straight piece of hard tubing..
Any other good alternative kits out there?
I found this write up oil-coolant-feed-return-line-for-ka24det-t312476.html
and found it really helpful and the parts actually add up to be a good bit cheaper for the feed line. My only problem is
that I can't find the oil restrictor fitting the write up lists from taka motorsports.
Can anybody help me find that 7/16-24 to -3AN, .060" oil restrictor?
Also, I'm a little new to the fitting sizes and such, I tried searching for a -3 in/out oil restrictor, but I always find 1/8" fittings, so are the -3an coupling hoses still 1/8" ID or something?
Thanks Guys
ok, when you tryed to push start it did the tires just slide? if so motor is locked up try turning it with a breaker bar from blance wheel an make sure ground to body an motor are hooked upangrypenguin182 wrote:Im having a problem getting my car to start, lately when i could turn the key i would only hear a single loud click, sounds like it was coming from the starter, and when i inspected underneath i noticed my ground for the alternator was not there, i regrounded it and no the battery reads 12.6 but the cables read only 10 volts, i tried jumpstarting it and nothing, push starting it is not working either. i replaced the starter, and i am now clueless,
Yeaa.... I've been asking for like 3 pages, and in other threads too :pallenms240 wrote:Also when I'm slowing down and coming to a stop (foot on the brake, car in neutral) my idle drops down to about 200-300, almost stalls, but recovers itself. I am about to go clean my IACV but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas before I go out in the 107degree weather.
allenms240 wrote:Ouch, looks like there is more rust hiding on the car elsewhere. That stuff in particular isn't too bad, just get a new bumper/bumper support. I'd be more concerned with the rust that's hiding.
No, the motor's stock, other than my JB weld holding the clutch fan together, and various botched wiring from the previous owner (causing my starter to be on a button) If I had the tools or ability to remove the guide on my own at this time, I would have replaced the chain anyway. You're saying nissan DOES reccomend to remove it? keep in mind this is my only car, not a track car or anything.OutToWinPAHC wrote:It should be but as they age the collect varnish and become in accurate. So who can tell without internal inspection, you can try cleaning it with seafoam.
Rattle, have you removed the timing guide? It is recommended by Nissan. The sound ehh it can be different, its a rubbing.