The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
hoodrich
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Car: 1990 nissan 240sx ka24et

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great ill definatly check them out looks exactly what i need. Thanks alot for the help!


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240man91
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Car: 1991 nissan 240sx se hicas

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:See if you can get a set of these from one of our sponsors (sparkplugs.com maybe?)
http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?dep ... r=04-56205

With a boosted engine, you're most likely want to go with a colder plug as opposed to stock.
you can use stock plugs just gap them to .32 they will work fine. thats what i run in my ka-t.

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240man91
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Car: 1991 nissan 240sx se hicas

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ok i have a friend with a sr he is running the stock maf for a ka24e car runs wrong an we caint find any thing wrong or out of place motor is fully rebulit by a pro. could it be the maf? i have read that they work fine an that they dont. whats the real deal?

koukiS13_rbpower
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2011 9:13 pm
Car: 89' s13 rb20det

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hi, i'm new to this website.
i love cooking, baking, hand sewing, knitting, and drifting!
i'm a loser and currently have no friends except my s13.....
I've been apart of ma240sx.net for awhile and have been getting some good info/tech stuff on here and wanted to see how the "community" is...
quick rundown on my car:
piece of s**t s13 with rb20det swap, wall-ewood brakes, ats 2-way diff, blah blah blah

just wanted to say hi to all you peoples and sorry if i posted on wrong thread, cuz i saw another thread about skylines but i wanted to start here cuz i like stock ka's better than rb25's any day XP

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Welcome! This is more of a question thread than an introduction thread. You can certainly make your own in 240 gen or gen chat.

koukiS13_rbpower
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Car: 89' s13 rb20det

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Welcome! This is more of a question thread than an introduction thread. You can certainly make your own in 240 gen or gen chat.
ahhh!! okay sorry bout that.

well i'm having a problem on my car and wanted to use my "noob lifeline."
have a major bogging problem right after i replaced my cracked vac hoses and increased the fuel pressure to about 42psi.
checked intercooler piping and all that and don't hear/see any leaks anywhere. if it helps my idle is a little funky too. cleaned my MAF and idle control valve thing recently and yesterday seafoamed my car and a lot of white smoke means a lot of carbon right?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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A lot of white smoke during seafoam? That's normal.

A lot of white smoke off the seafoam? That means you've probably blown a headgasket.

koukiS13_rbpower
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okay so i didn't blow a headgasket cuz my car doesn't blow white smoke at all anymore.
so what could be causing the bogging and rough idle?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Bad grounds, a bad sensor (MAF, coolant temp, etc), leaky injector, vacuum leak.

pella
Posts: 196
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 9:36 am
Car: 1995 240sx S14
Location: CA

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Does anyone know what the stock 240 fuel pump is rated at?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It depends. If you're running a rising rate fuel pressure regulator and stock fuel injectors, the pump wont flow as much (as pressure increases, flow decreases). If you upgrade to bigger injectors and keep the same fuel pressure, you can get away with about 200-210 at the wheels.

pella
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I replaced OEM pump with a walboro, was just curious as to the rating difference. 200-210 what? HP? Just from sizing up injectors? Also, im still running stock injectors and stock FPR. By "rising rate" do you mean as pressure goes up, so does flow?

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KC224
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Looking to finally get some coilovers, will I need anything else but coilovers? camber kit or anything like that? for s14, don't plan to lower it to much since it's my daily driver

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PapaSmurf2k3
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pella wrote:I replaced OEM pump with a walboro, was just curious as to the rating difference. 200-210 what? HP? Just from sizing up injectors? Also, im still running stock injectors and stock FPR. By "rising rate" do you mean as pressure goes up, so does flow?
I'm not sure what the factory fuel flow rate is, but the walbro pump is rated at 255 liters per hour. Flow is dependent on pressure as well. The higher your pressure is, the lower your maximum flow will be. Whether you reach this maximum flow or not is another story.
Example: At 38 psi, the pump will flow enough fuel for 500hp.
At 100psi, it will flow enough for 300.
Its sort of like a garden hose. If you hold your thumb over the end, the pressure increases, but you wont be flowing as much water.

Its slightly more complicated than that, but its a good mindset to have.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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KC224 wrote:Looking to finally get some coilovers, will I need anything else but coilovers? camber kit or anything like that? for s14, don't plan to lower it to much since it's my daily driver
You can get coilovers and not lower it too much, and be fine. They probably come with camber plates for the front, so you can adjust your camber there, but at a certain point of going low, you'll need adjustable rear upper control arms.

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KC224
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cool, thanks a lot!

mechanicalmoron
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what's this plug, and should it be plugged in? for location reference, the bar accross the bottom of the picture is the fuel line, and the filter is directly to the right.

Image

Seemed to do nothing when plugged in, I bit the bullet and risked it, since it was so obviously made to plug in... Related to the starter, perhaps?

I had an irational hope that it would fix my idle problem, which it, predictably, did not.

Is it okay if I have my car idling at 850+RPM? it's a band-aid, not a fix, but it means the lowest I can get it to dip is about 420RPM, cornering, braking, clutch in, in neutral, which is a lot better than killing the engine. All a high idle will hurt is fuel economy, right?

mechanicalmoron
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I read what their site SAYS, but is seafoam really okay to leave in for as long as you want? was going to add to my oil, and run it down a quart, and then change.... sound okay? (and do my gas at the same time)

Also, for a pathetically ignorant question, is it okay to use 2 jackstands on the rear, with the front wheels chocked, to get at the differential oil? I only have 2. Is there anything I can safely put them on, that goes crossways accross the car so it doesn't knock them over( if that makes sense)?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mechanicalmoron wrote: Is it okay if I have my car idling at 850+RPM? it's a band-aid, not a fix, but it means the lowest I can get it to dip is about 420RPM, cornering, braking, clutch in, in neutral, which is a lot better than killing the engine. All a high idle will hurt is fuel economy, right?
Correct. The high idle shouldn't hurt anything.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mechanicalmoron wrote:I read what their site SAYS, but is seafoam really okay to leave in for as long as you want? was going to add to my oil, and run it down a quart, and then change.... sound okay? (and do my gas at the same time)

Also, for a pathetically ignorant question, is it okay to use 2 jackstands on the rear, with the front wheels chocked, to get at the differential oil? I only have 2. Is there anything I can safely put them on, that goes crossways accross the car so it doesn't knock them over( if that makes sense)?
I wouldn't leave it in the oil much longer than 20-30 minutes. You can always do it again and add more if you need to.

Putting 2 in the rear with the front low will make your diff oil pool towards the front. Try driving the car up on ramps, or maybe a small incline if you need to get the car up. If it isn't lowered, you might even be able to change the fluid without jacking the car up.

...or just buy 2 more jackstands you cheapskate! :gapteeth:

Eion
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Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 10:28 pm
Car: zenki s14

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if i'm on a tight budget for a five speed swap, can i just flip my auto trans xmember around and have the two bolts bolted up? how safe is that to do until i can get a manual xmember?

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allenms240
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I wouldn't cheap out on anything, even if it's temporary. I;m sure full 5 spd swaps will come with a crossmember.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
mechanicalmoron wrote:I read what their site SAYS, but is seafoam really okay to leave in for as long as you want? was going to add to my oil, and run it down a quart, and then change.... sound okay? (and do my gas at the same time)

Also, for a pathetically ignorant question, is it okay to use 2 jackstands on the rear, with the front wheels chocked, to get at the differential oil? I only have 2. Is there anything I can safely put them on, that goes crossways accross the car so it doesn't knock them over( if that makes sense)?
I wouldn't leave it in the oil much longer than 20-30 minutes. You can always do it again and add more if you need to.

Putting 2 in the rear with the front low will make your diff oil pool towards the front. Try driving the car up on ramps, or maybe a small incline if you need to get the car up. If it isn't lowered, you might even be able to change the fluid without jacking the car up.

...or just buy 2 more jackstands you cheapskate! :gapteeth:
Yeah, I think im getting more today.... just had money issues. (on that note, ALL my lift and jack points are mushed up, especially the lift points, enough that you can see the dent it puts in my side panel behind the door.... Which is another reason I'm learning to do this stuff myself, instead of use local garages.....)

You did mean 30 mins, not 30 miles? their site says a minimum of 30 miles before a change, and as long as you want.... It's gone aboue 2 miles, and sat overnight, and I was going to run it to town and back at least before another change, so around a hundred miles (today). Should this cause any particular probblems? I'm just doing oil and gas, not dumping it in a vaccum hose, I have no idea how to do that and I'm sure I'd break things.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I'd be more worried about having it in the oil that long than I would be about putting it through the vacuum line.

I did mean 30 mins. Dump it in, drive it a bit, or let it idle, but yes, I meant 30 minutes running.

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240sxcl50
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Ok i have a 96 5spd motor and transmission. The motor is poopy and going to break soon. I have an auto motor that i would like to swap in,is there any wiring that needs done or is it just drop plug in and go.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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As long as you get the motor from a 96 or later vehicle (and some 95s), it should just drop right in. You will of course need the manual trans flywheel, clutch, and pilot bushing though.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I'd be more worried about having it in the oil that long than I would be about putting it through the vacuum line.

I did mean 30 mins. Dump it in, drive it a bit, or let it idle, but yes, I meant 30 minutes running.
Ahh, wish I'd seen this before going through with my hundred mile round trip.

Bit of a burnt smell on the way back, but I always have that from the PS fluid, and my nose is messed up because I'm sick, so I couldn't be sure.

I guess if my oil's all sitting under my car in the morning, I'll know I screwed up..... Will change tomorrow and see how it goes I guess.

*edit* well I got it changed out, finially got my full high milage stuff in, seems to have gotten a lot dirtier just since I put the seafoam in, was totally filthy after only 1500 miles (but I'd meant to change at that anyway, first change since putting my stuff in after getting it and the last oil looked like it'd been going on 10k) still chatters in a way that doesn't sound like youtube videos of the timing chain outright slapping the cover, might be the guides, nothing alarming.... so.... here's to seafoam NOT destroying my engine? :woot:

Any tips on filling the transmission through the shifter? There's NO way this oil is going thru the pump dealie I've got, it's utter junk and doesn't even seal to the bottle right, the threads arn't the right size and before oil even makes it up to the fill hole, it's filling my shirt and garage floor. I read you need some special tool or something? cause it seems to be my only option.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I just used the gear oil jug and a long line. Cut the needle nozzle to fit inside the line, and run the bottle to wherever you can to fill it. Could be engine bay, wheel well, outside the car... whatever.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I just used the gear oil jug and a long line. Cut the needle nozzle to fit inside the line, and run the bottle to wherever you can to fill it. Could be engine bay, wheel well, outside the car... whatever.
Well, with OUT any tools, I pulled off the cover around the shifter, put it in second to give me some room to work from the passenger seat, and just slowly poured it in.... was rather slow, but it worked.

The stuff before was RATHER sludgy, and the plug was covered in shavings. Ehh....

I used royal purple, because despite costing almost 60 bucks to fill, it was all that autozone had that was GL-4 compatable. 75w90 royal purple sound okay?v (I have very limited auto store choices)

Also, I got my diff valvoline 90w145 (or whatever the next gear oil weight up from 75w90 is.... I forget) but due to stupid conversion mistakes, only got one quart. Would it be okay to mix my last half quart of royal purple with the valvoline, for the diff?

And do those weights sound good, for transmission/diff?

One thing I know is I'm using a bike inner tube to fill the diff from the side of the car. Ain't monkeying around with this useless pump.
Last edited by mechanicalmoron on Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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allenms240
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I buy my stuff from PEZi, an amsoil vendor. He has great stuff on the GL-4 line. As far as transmission oil, that's great, I'm not sure about diff though, it's been a while since I changed that.
Also, seafoam through the vacuum is really easy, you just need a helping hand to hold the throttle so it doesn't choke out and die. Just use the brake booster line, take it off on the divers side (That was you don't get seafoam into the check valve that just to the left.) And BARELY suck some seafoam, little at a time. Your exhaust will pour out white smoke for a while, but it will go away.


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