The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[Chief1402]

From what ive read u gotta splice everything into original harness. Idk if jdm would be different though.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I mean, if the connectors are different then yeah, you'll have to cut them out and use your own butt-connectors or something. But other than that, voltage is voltage. Just wire them up. I would think they'd only be 2 wires each.

[Chief1402]

Ok, heres pictures of the cylinders.



AND a new question on top of that one.. I got a rear set of 300zx calipers with ok pads. I know I'll need rotors, brake cables, ebrake cables, and "ebrake setup"... Are the following pictures the entire "ebrake setup"? or are they missing something?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah those cylinders do look quite different. I wonder if you can just pop that E-clip off and swap that engagement arm from one cylinder to the other though.

I've never done a 300zx rear swap, so I'm not sure what "complete" would be.

I would think the rear drum assembly, plus cables and rotors would essentially be it.

[Chief1402]

Ok, ill see what I can do about the cylinders. Thanks for the help

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Good luck! Let us know how you make out!

[Essence]

Hey everyone. Obviously, I'm new.. and I have a simple question. So I'm about to turn 20 and looking to get a 240 for myself. Currently driving a hand me down 98 honda civic dx.

I'm relatively new to cars. I have some knowledge of what some things are and how they work, but I have no hands on experience and I've seen multiple sources saying 240s are a good place to start. I came across an individual seller offering a 97 240sx le with 99k miles, a clean title, no accidents and the seller says it runs great with no problems but may need some tuning. However, it's got a lot of mods.

It has an SR20DET swap, Garrett GT2871R Turbo, Remote Starter, Turbo Timer, Tanabe Super Racing Medallion Exhaust, Hybrid Front Mount Intercooler, Greddy Rocker Arm Stoppers, HKS SSQ BOV, Front Z32 Calipers, Koyo Radiator, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, Stage 3 Clutch, Viscous Limited Slip Differential, S15 OEM Rims, S15 Steering Wheel, S14 Oem Front Lip, S14 Kouki Mesh Grill, S14 Rear Valances, S14 Kouki Wing.....

I've always heard it's better to buy an unmodded car BUT since I'm a full time college student, this will save me time and money. Though it would be nice to learn to mod cars on my own.

The asking price is $13,500. I feel like this is overpriced, but I'm not sure considering the amount of work done to the car. My car budget is around $20k so it's really not that bad, though I don't want to over pay if I have to. My main questions are, is this worth considering and is this a fair price?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I don't recommend buying highly modified cars if you don't know anything about working on them (especially ones that "could use a tune"), unless you have extremely deep pockets and can pay a specialty shop to work on it for you (and you live close to them).

[sdlocal]

PapaSmurf, thanks again for the help. The issue ended up being the connection at the positive terminal of the battery. A metal piece in OEM clip that is attached to the positive cable had broken so current wasn't getting to all the connections.

I cut the clip and soldered on the ring connectors and connected it directly to the positive cable which worked.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well done! Usually corroded battery terminals first result in the car not starting (not enough current can get to the starter).

[30K]

Hi there! Pretty new S13 hatch owner here. I have a question regarding a new wheels that I am planning to get. So my car is '91 with 4 studs. The wheels I mentioned are "17, 7J and ET40. My question is if they will bolt on straight? I don't want to mess with spacers atm so I need to know if rims with such specs are plug n play. Thanks in advance!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Do you have a link to the wheels?

Technically, all that is needed for "plug and play" is that they are 4x114.3 lug pattern. Offset plays a factor for looks too.

[30K]

Yes they are 4x114.3 just like the car but I am afraid that they will touch the suspension when I try to mount them. I can't give you a link because its a local site so you won't be able to see it but I'll tell you that the rims are OZ Superleggera. I am wondering about the 40ET and the 7J width mostly because I don't know if the S13 can fit rims with such dimensions. Whats maximum possible ET by default for the S13 without the need of using spacers?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

ET?


Do you mean offset?
Usually for a 7" wide wheel, you'll want +35 or under for offset. You can probably run a +40 without hitting the suspension, but it'll look sunken in the wheel wells.

[Flashburning]

Hi I'm new. So I'm super stumped did the shock to dohc ka swap and everything works except check engine light on ignition or at all. I need this to pass visual on smog. When I did the dash wires I connected it via rep in. I did all necessary and the check engine (red, pin 24) please help been stumped for a week!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So from what I gathered from that post, your check engine light isn't working?
Have you checked the bulb? Can you put a multi-meter at the wire before the connection and see if it gets voltage at key-on?

[Flashburning]

I haven't checked the bulb yet because I knew it worked before the swap, but I'm going to pull the cluster tomorrow, it's still the sohc cluster also. I tried to multimeter it no signal on ignition. Also I test light it and at the plug where body plug meets dohc harness. I did it at the pin. No power and ground idk how to put power to a single wire to see if the light will come on.
Thanks I been stressing for a week!

[30K]

ET?


Do you mean offset?
Usually for a 7" wide wheel, you'll want +35 or under for offset. You can probably run a +40 without hitting the suspension, but it'll look sunken in the wheel wells.

Yeah, on the inner side of the rim it says ET40, which is the offset

[rpholz]

Hey guys,

It was suggested that I link my question to this thread. Any suggestions would be usefull. Thanks

newb-with-an-interesting-block-purchase-t589307.html

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Thanks I been stressing for a week!

No problem. Sometimes it just helps to talk it out.

I'd also suggest looking at the factory service manual wiring diagrams (www.nicoclub.com/FSM) and make sure you are connected to the right pinout based on whatever ECU you've got. If you aren't seeing any voltage with the multimeter or test light, then I'd hold off on going through the trouble of pulling the bulb.

[Flashburning]

No problem. Sometimes it just helps to talk it out.

Thanks, I usually get flamed on other sites. That's why I tried this one now. I check the fsm and see. But it's good to know on a swapped de with a sohc body harness it can work. I'll get back to you

[PapaSmurf2k3]

[Flashburning]

So crash course on wire diagrams and I pulled the cluster. The check light gets power from the ignition but is not grounding to circuit "alb" which turns out to be the check engine light pin 24 red wire on the ecu. For some reason my ecu isn't grounding this pin. Unless the ecu itself needs to be bolted back to the chassis? Idk I'm lost. Do I need a new ecu?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Try bolting it back to the chassis (or jumping it to the chassis), and also look for loose grounds somewhere.

If you ground that wire (maybe jump it to ground), with IGN ON, does the light come on?

[danshaz82]

i finally got around to piecing together another KADE. my main questions were:
1. i replaced the head gasket for the KA i was rebuilding, but only torqued it down once and it was for about 12 hours. never saw any load or anything. would i be able to reuse it?
2. im replacing the pistons with the ones from my old KA because the valves kissed the ones in there currently. how can i tell if the rings are good or not on the old ones with them out of the block? i know when that KA was running, there were never any signs or symptoms of bad rings.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

1. Torquing it down is the load (clamp load), so you'll have to replace it.
2. Just replace the rings. They are super cheap.

[danshaz82]

sounds good. thanks.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

you're totally not new here by the way!!!

[danshaz82]

you're totally not new here by the way!!!

i know. i just like use the 'simple question' portion instead

[Chief1402]

Hey smurf, ended up having to get the locks done by a guy locally, doors and trunk for $125.. I have a new problem now lol. I just replaced all the bulbs in interior, got a manual shifter trim and new radio bezel (5 speed converted car, megan short shifter) and the car drove fine before I did the interior, now that the trim is in the shifter hits the plastic piece which causes it to pop out of gear.. did I get the wrong interior trim or what? Also the cars a s14, using a s13 trans.