The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Should be able to replace just the wires (cut them before and after the damage, solder in or butt-connect new sections).
Hell, I'd try to still use the same ECU until after you did it too.

[Flashburning]

Thanks! I will try! Let you know the results!

[stevenlewis]

Cool. Im also gonna get the frame checked. If all thatch good I should have it by Tuesday.

Just the old and new(older).

[gamepro56]

I did some research and read that the Energy Suspension S14 subframe bushings (Part # 7.1117R) can fit on the S13 subframe as long as you retain the metal sleeves from old bushings. But from the looks of it, it looks like it won't fit or it will be a real tight fit. I'm assuming I have to cut the rest of the rubber off the sleeve and then I can fit it in? Just wanted to be sure before I start.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'm not totally sure, but it LOOKS like it should work.
You'll want to COMPLETELY clean and polish the old sleeve before attempting to press it in. Also be sure to lube it.

[gamepro56]

I'll try it later this week and see if it works

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Cool! Let us know how it works!

[danshaz82]

i took my oil pan off with the engine in the car still (kade) and we all know what a pain in the a** it is. im getting ready to put it back on, but its going to be impossible to get it on and keep the rtv intact.
im curious if i can use a cork gasket, but cover both sides in rtv? would that work?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I haven't heard good things about the cork gaskets. That's pretty impressive that you got the damn thing out of there!

Have you cleaned both surfaces really well and gotten all the old gasket out of the nooks and crannies?

If I were in your position, I'd probably put the whole thing back in dry (at first) just to position it. Get the engine jacked up as high as you can, and then try to put as much RTV on either the block or oil pan gasket surface as you can. Maybe fab yourself a right angle tool or something to spread it around, then give it hell.

You'll probably end up with a slow leak still
Oil pan gaskets can be a b****.

[danshaz82]

it wasnt easy. i had to jack the engine way up, take out my rad and maneuver the pan at an odd angle and it came out. i might just take out the sway bar to get it back in. id rather not, but it would make life easier.

yeah, i cleaned both the pan and block pretty well, but im gonna go over it again tomorrow to make sure i got it all.

but yeah, i was told on here the very first time i pulled the pan to avoid the cork gasket, but i never thought to coat it in rtv. ill do some digging around.

ill try putting it in first tho and see how much clearance i have, but i dont think ill have enough on the back side by the trans
and yeah, these are a total b**** haha. i dont wana have to do it again.

[sx moneypit]

When i changed my oil pan i just dropped the cross member,makes it easy.

[danshaz82]

ok, i take advantage of this thread too much.
anyways, im about to set time on my KA. but i did the 248/232 cam swap this time around and i want to be sure its correct so i dont introduce more valves and pistons.

intake side is supposed to be rotated 4 teeth CCW.




1st intake lobe


1st exhaust lobe


does this look correct? im not exactly sure how its supposed to look with the cam swap.
i feel like the intake cam should be moved clockwise a tooth?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Looks right to me.

[danshaz82]

awesome, thanks! and thanks for the super quick reply haha

[Pottsie]

Just acquired a Nissan 240sx s14 kouki and I have a few questions. The engine is clean with 120,000 miles and the interior is in decent shape. It is in a midnight blue color now but the pain has some small chips the paint job was professionally done. If I was going to get it re painted what colors look good on the car and how much would it roughly cost? Also the trunk looks like it had an after market spoiler and I think the trunk needs to be replaced. Also the exhaust doesn't sound very good so whats a good one to buy?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What colors look good are entirely opinion based. Can't go wrong with black or white, but I'm fond of the blue as well.
Figure about 1200 bucks for a paint job. Less if you do some of the work yourself.
Exhaust again depends on what you're looking for. If you like quiet, go stock. If you want some rumble, BRM is a popular choice.

[Pottsie]

Thank you for the advice! The car is currently a midnight blue but has some chips so I think I am going to get it redone in white. Also the rims are really nice aftermarket rims and they are dark gray so I think that would look good. Also at some point I want to turbo it but I have heard I should not turbo the stock engine? If anyone knows how to or what kind of engine I would need to turbo it that would be awesome

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You can turbo the stock engine... just make sure you install supporting modifications and don't really expect to crack more than 260whp without having issues.

[Pottsie]

I was wondering the best engine to put in a 95 s14 that could handle a turbo. Ive been told the stock engine shouldn't be turbo charged so I was wondering what I should be looking at. I heard the sr20 would be the best choice but I have no idea. Any suggestions?

[gamepro56]

I've been meaning to post this but it always slipped my mind. So I burned the rest of the rubber off the sleeve and polished it, did a test fit and they went right in. Now my question would be which sleeves go into the front of the subframe and into the back since they are different?



Picture was taken before I polished it.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I was wondering the best engine to put in a 95 s14 that could handle a turbo. Ive been told the stock engine shouldn't be turbo charged so I was wondering what I should be looking at. I heard the sr20 would be the best choice but I have no idea. Any suggestions?

95 was an odd year... some of the 240s were OBD1, some were OBD2. If you're planning on going mild with a turbo (~6 psi), it shouldn't matter... you can handle everything without really getting into the ECU. If you're going mega wild (stand-alone), it wont matter either.
Personally, I'm a KA fan. Its what came in it from the factory, and parts are super easy to come by (plus, it has more displacement). If you don't know your way around the car, mechanics also don't freak the hell out when you bring the car to them.

At the end of the day though, it would come down to what you could get a better deal on... whatever's cheaper really.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I've been meaning to post this but it always slipped my mind. So I burned the rest of the rubber off the sleeve and polished it, did a test fit and they went right in. Now my question would be which sleeves go into the front of the subframe and into the back since they are different?



Picture was taken before I polished it.

I'm guessing you didn't keep track of which ones the came out of? Are the OD/IDs different between the 2?
You miiiight get lucky and find it in the FSM too...

[gamepro56]

No unfortunately but I'll take a look. Thanks.

[tr(o)picana]

hey all you beautiful people, so I removed the iacv from my car to clean it and when you remove the coolant hose that goes to it, it allows coolant to leak out of the engine, so is there anything special i need to do after I put it back on, but before i start the engine, i.e. add coolant or flush the system to remove air

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I don't recall there being a coolant line going into the IACV... just an air supply line.

iacv-aac-cleaning-and-testing-tutorial-t251133.html

[tr(o)picana]

thanks for the reply Papa, I have a sr not a ka though, and when I took one of the hoses off of the IACV to remove it a good amount of coolant leaked out, and the other end of the hose was attached to the engine, meaning coolant leaked out of the engine. Also some guy did a write up for removing and didn't mention needing a pan for leaking coolant

diy-sr20det-redtop-iacv-removal-pic-heavy-t369842.html

[rwlesher]

I did some research and read that the Energy Suspension S14 subframe bushings (Part # 7.1117R) can fit on the S13 subframe as long as you retain the metal sleeves from old bushings. But from the looks of it, it looks like it won't fit or it will be a real tight fit. I'm assuming I have to cut the rest of the rubber off the sleeve and then I can fit it in? Just wanted to be sure before I start.

I just did the same thing recently but what's concerning me is my kit came with new sleeves



If you haven't put it back together or figured out this problem I'd contact energy and let them know you didn't receive your sleeves, they will definitely work with you and make it right if your missing something.

[AORQO]

Hello kind Nissan folks, I am trying to fix a basket case with no basket. The vehicle in question is a 1989 240sx hatch mt no abs/ascd. I have two harnesses for it but they are both AT harnesses. The plug indicated in the FSM on my installed harness is E116 (AT with ABS) and it would plug into the Main harness at plug F5. My car has what appears to be plug F4, not F5. I was wondering if there is any info or possibility of converting E116/F5 plug to E115/F4, assuming I could find the E115 plug. Or cut/splice/solder. There are 11 wires in each plug. Am I biting my own back here, just buy a new harness? I live on the West Coast so most 240s have been drifted to death and jdm'ed out, plus all the junk yards think they are made from gold. Only so many truck parts will fit the bill, yahnameen? Any thoughts, or jeers out there?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

What are you trying to accomplish by changing the harness? It would help if you could post pics too

[AORQO]

Well Papa, as of now the car does not start. No fuel pump kick on. No relays clicking. I'd like it to start. I just hope to not have to locate another part for this car and was hoping I could make this harness work. There is a black plug unplugged in the passenger footwell area, above where the ecu goes. I am assuming it is engine room harness plug E115. When I refer to the FSM to try and trace the wires for a MT engine room harness, I cannot find the wiring schematic referring to the plug F4 to E115. I did find F3 to E114 and F5 to E116 on the FSM schematic. My car, being a MT has plug E115 with no F4 to plug in, because the EFI harness is for an AT with ABS and has an F5 plug. I traced the schematic back on the F5 plug and found that the wires go to sensor ground(pin 29), condenser/resistor(pin3), TPS power Output(pin37), and pin 33 which I think is 5th gear switch?? IDK really, like I say I got this car as a basket case missing it's basket. I did find a E116 plug to de-pin and put in place of E115 if that would work.