The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[PapaSmurf2k3]

That's odd... I've never heard of that before. Does it hit in the odd gears or even gears (basically, is shifter forward or aft when it wants to pop out)?

You MIGHT be able to move the console trim forward/aft a bit... sometimes the screw holes are slotted. I don't have much experience in S14s though. Worst case scenario, you trim the trim.

[Chief1402]

It only does it in odds, 1,3,5. Cant shift it around, guess ill have to trim the trim.
Another thing, no one responded to my other topic, my cars a base 1996 240. It had manual locks, I replaced the doors and they have power locks. Is there a way to get them to work?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I think you'd either have to replace the door harnesses at the very least, or just do your own stand-alone wiring.

[Laws]

Hi. I just bought an s14 and am in dire need of help. I'm trying to change the short u shaped hose that runs from the back of the thermostat up to the intake manifold. I can't get the fuel rail to separate from the intake to remove it. It's catching by the firewall, around the last injector somewhere. I've got the hose connected to the intake but can't get my hand far enough in the gap to connect it to the thermostat.. please help!!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah I know exactly the hose you're talking about, and it is a MOTHER.

If you want to remove the fuel rail, I think there's just a couple of screws holding it in, but the injectors themselves are quite the press fit. They'll come out eventually, but you'll have to really give it hell. Plan on replacing all the fuel injector O rings if you remove them.

If you can get any force on the hose at all, feel free to lubricate it with soapy water first. It should ease the install.

[Laws]

I finally got the fuel rail off. Thanks man. Now I'm in the process of taking the studs out of the intake to get the upper part off. Since my engine bay is stock and ridiculously factory (by that I mean EVERYTHING is the way it was from the factory, nothing has been removed, modified, or rigged) I can't use the 2 nut trick to remove the stud cuz I don't have enough room to turn a wrench on the bottom nut. I'm thinking of replacing the studs with regular bolts when I reassemble everything. Any thoughts or comments on that idea? And yes, this hose is a MOTHER as you so eloquently put it. I never imagined changing one hose could be such a time consuming process. Its kinda ridiculous. But I love the car so it'll be worth it in the end.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'd leave the studs. they tend to keep things in better alignment.

[Noh0nda]

Ok so about a week ago i bought a 1990 250sx hatch off craigslist it was overheating at the time so i got it for 1400 i fixed that problem new radiator/thermo but I have a few questions it is a manual ka and if i "hotrod" it when i shift it kinda i want to say grinds but it's more of like it just doesn't want to shift but when i drive normal nothing happens is it just because I'm pushing it so hard? Also my engine seems to shake a lot are my mounts out of is that just a 240 thing? And last of all its running rich you can smell it bad when you shut it off any ideas? I've wanted a 240 for years and want to make it nice, fast and reliable thanks

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Define "hot rod" when you shift...
you're using the clutch, right? If so, you might just have to change your gear oil. Redline MT-90 is what I've always used and had good luck with. If that doesn't fix it, your synchro is going out.

"shakes a lot" is sort of an opinion based observation... but no, I wouldn't say that is normal. You might have a leaky injector or something causing it to run rough/misfire on one cylinder, which would also explain the fuel smell.

[ffprz]

hey guys. I have a problem that I can't figure out. MY 92 240sx s13 won't start every now and then. I turn the key but nothing happens. I know I have power because the lights and the radio come on. I here the engine priming and there is no click ( like if the starter went out). I have changed the plugs, wires are good, distributor cap and rotor, starter, battery, and batter terminals are good. Does any one have any idea what may be wrong with my car? It hard to solve because like I said it does it every now and then. Thank you for you time and help

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Could be a starter relay or something. Try turning the key, and if nothing happens, flip it back to "ON" and quickly re-try the start. Sometimes that can get the relay to click (works it back and forth kinda).

[ffprz]

I will check that. I have tried flipping it to “on” and then try to restart it. Sometimes it will start up again other times it won’t start. When it doesn’t want to start I’ll try it again and again most of the time it will piss me off so I just walk away and take my wife’s car. Then when I come back a few hours later it will start.

Another problem I came across what that my fuel gauge does not read correctly. I switched out the gauge cluster because the odometer didn’t work but I seem to be having the same problem.
Thank you papa smurf for you time and advice.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The fuel gauge could be the fuel sending unit and/or wiring. You'd basically have to pull the fuel pump to check both. Sometimes the wires (outside of the tank) can get pinched by random crap.

[ffprz]

Ok so here is an update. I picked up an ignition relay at autozone but I couldn't figure out where it was. I looked it up online and it gave me different locations. I checked both location and the parts weren't the same.

As for the fuel problem, I'm still looking for a place that carries the fuel sending unit. Autozone and orileys don't carry it.

I have a new problem my left headlight motor went out. I tried replacing it but when I did the didn't work together. When the right one was up the left was down. When the left was up the right was down. Also the headlight went out. The right headlight turns on and off fine. I put the old motor back on and made sure the connection was on right but still no light. I check the fuses and they were fine. Do you have any idea on what can be the problem?? BTW both headlights worked before I started working on it. It was just the left motor that didn't work.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

For the headlights- it could just be a blown bulb. When you're changing the motor, they get jostled around a lot and can potentially break the inner filiment. Try either replacing the bulb, or swapping left and right side bulbs.

For the motor, you could try running it up by hand first so that it is equal with the other side (like the motor timing is just 180 out), then use the switch to close them.

Check rockauto.com for the fuel sending unit.

[ffprz]

I'll try switching them as soon as I get home.

I had them both fully opened and tried to close them but they didn't open and close together. The light did the went to the oposet position that the other light was in. I repeated this twice and made sure they were at equal height.

I tried rockauto.com but they just have the fuel sending unit gasket. I read on some form that no one carries them. If you want to buy on you have to get it from the dealer and will cost like 497$.

I'll keep researching and let you know what I come up with. Thank you for you time

[PapaSmurf2k3]

. If you want to buy on you have to get it from the dealer and will cost like 497$.

Holy crap that's nuts. At that rate you can just go to a junk yard and take out the entire fuel pump/bracket/sending unit assembly and swap them.

[ffprz]

ok so my car just got worse. I have been trying to find the ignition relay but have not been able to find it. I have researched it and keep coming up with different locations. Can you send me a picture of it or telling where I can find it. I really hope this relay does the trick. till them ill be trying to find it. FML

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I thought it was up around either the passenger or driver's side fender. Doesn't it have a blue cover?

[Monicadena]

Hi everyone, im in need of advise, i own a 90' nissan 240xs recently i changed the transmission oil and filter, i know this is silly, but my car wont start, i also changed the egr, o2 sensor and im about to change the idle contol unit, but my car wont start im in pieces anyone know what could be wrong? im thinking to change the fuel injerctos as well but if the car is not starting i really have no clue on what to do!! PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!

[ffprz]

I thought it was up around either the passenger or driver's side fender. Doesn't it have a blue cover?

I was told that was the clutch sensor. I did pull it out but it does not match the one they gave me at autozone. Which lead me to believe that that wasn't the right one. Today a buddy of my with be stopping by to check all the grounds so I will keep you updated.

Also about the head light issue it just started working. I didn't even do anything to it!!!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hi everyone, im in need of advise, i own a 90' nissan 240xs recently i changed the transmission oil and filter, i know this is silly, but my car wont start, i also changed the egr, o2 sensor and im about to change the idle contol unit, but my car wont start im in pieces anyone know what could be wrong? im thinking to change the fuel injerctos as well but if the car is not starting i really have no clue on what to do!! PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!

Does it crank over? Or does absolutely nothing happen when you turn the key?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I was told that was the clutch sensor.

Dafuq? Who told you that?! The only clutch sensor that exists is the one on the pedal. There's other sensors on the transmission too, but they aren't for the clutch.

Also about the head light issue it just started working. I didn't even do anything to it!!!

Rest assured, the issue will come back at some point haha.

[ffprz]

Some guy that claims to know a lot about 240s. They also said it might be the a bad switch behind the pedal. I'm so confused I don't know where to start or how to check it. I'm going to mess with it tonight I'll let you know what happens tomorrow.

[Monicadena]

It cranks....i unplugged the batterie last night.... just in case i needed the CPU to restart im actually going to plugg it now see if ti was that.. i was told it might be my Idle control.... but would that couse the car not to go? or the knock sensor.... is an automatic do i have one? i have never seen it!!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Nah idle control wouldn't cause it to not start at all... it would have poor idle and maybe stall, but it should still start. The knock sensor again shouldn't cause it to not start, just a CEL and crappy performance.

You need to narrow it down to a fuel or spark issue. Pull a plug and see if it is sparking while someone cranks the engine.

Things that can cause an engine to not start (either no fuel or no spark)- dead fuel pump or line not connected properly, bad crank angle sensor (or not connected), bad distributor (or not connected), plugs/wires installed in the incorrect order, broken or severely worn distributor cap/rotor.
Finally, there's anti-theft devices, but I wont really get in to those because they vary quite a bit.

[Monicadena]

well my plugs are fine, but im going to change them just in case, i have right now iridium and they are not too old, im picking today my ignition rotor and may sit the rotos and cap, i pugged the battery yesterday and.. nothing... im baffled.... i really dont want to spend money at the mechanic...but i guess if i change all he said i needed to change and the car wont start... im going to have to take it... and hear the lecture he will give me....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Its extremely rare that all of the plugs and/or wires would go bad all at once.
I could see that suggestion if you were maybe misfiring on one cylinder, but if its not starting at all, it most likely isn't plugs/wires.

I stand by my previous direction. First you need to determine if its a fuel or spark problem, and then base your actions on the results.

[jimmyjjohn]

Cool. Im also gonna get the frame checked. If all thatch good I should have it by Tuesday.

[Flashburning]

So the worst possible thing happened to me today. I finally got everything in order to legally drive my car. Turn the key then smoke. After the panic found a sensor ground wire that goes to the body harness and pin 47 ecu power shored together. My question is if I replace the wires back to where they get thicker and get a new ecu it might fix it or do I need a whole new wire harness. I've never repaired short wires before. Thanks in advance