The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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allenms240
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One of the best things I like about these forums and your answers is I get a theory with it. So now I understand why its choking out. I will look into when I get the chance, thanks for the fast responses.


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, these are things you could probably do with some sophisticated equipment (like a wideband O2 sensor), but for someone that doesn't have that stuff, just knowing which way you need to go with it is often good enough haha.

If pulling a vacuum line HURTS it, then definitely look into cleaning the MAF (or trying to find other vacuum leaks).

If it HELPS, then an idle control valve adjustment may be in order, or one of your other "primary" sensors might be out of wack, like coolant temp sensor.

mechanicalmoron
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*edit* allow me to distill my question (I just pulled the widnow up):

Is it easy to remove the window motor? Like, five minute job? The FSM is worthless at showing this. I had the door panel off to move the window up, but couldn't find the motor or screws (it was dark) but it looked like they're held to the inside area of the door, or something like that?

So yeah: if I take the door panel off in the daylight, will I be able to remove the motor with no struggle?

Poll Element
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Car: Nissan 240SX SE
Location: NY, Queens/Elmont/Long Island

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How can I tell if my 93' 240 sx has an abs. Please email me at [email protected]

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PapaSmurf2k3
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We keep discussions on the board.
You can tell by looking under the hood for an ABS module, or ABS sensors/lines on your brakes themselves.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mechanicalmoron wrote:*edit* allow me to distill my question (I just pulled the widnow up):

Is it easy to remove the window motor? Like, five minute job? The FSM is worthless at showing this. I had the door panel off to move the window up, but couldn't find the motor or screws (it was dark) but it looked like they're held to the inside area of the door, or something like that?

So yeah: if I take the door panel off in the daylight, will I be able to remove the motor with no struggle?
I've never done it, and actually need to do it in the near future, but I can't imagine it being that difficult.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
mechanicalmoron wrote:*edit* allow me to distill my question (I just pulled the widnow up):

Is it easy to remove the window motor? Like, five minute job? The FSM is worthless at showing this. I had the door panel off to move the window up, but couldn't find the motor or screws (it was dark) but it looked like they're held to the inside area of the door, or something like that?

So yeah: if I take the door panel off in the daylight, will I be able to remove the motor with no struggle?
I've never done it, and actually need to do it in the near future, but I can't imagine it being that difficult.
Well I got back to it, in daylight.

It looks like it can't be hard, IF I was to take the whole window assembly out.... but I don't have the time or space or tools here. So it's a spring brake or later project. In the meantime, my window ALMOST stays closed....

I like auto on the passenger side for when I'm driving alone, but I also prefer manual windows, they don't leave you hanging like this....

daemonyk
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Car: '93 240SX

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Window regulator removal:

Roll window down if possible. Remove door trim.

Remove 2 stops at the bottom edge of glass, one bolt each - they're like a 2" dia metal cup thingy. There's a same-diameter metal plate on the "back" of the glass that the bolts thread into. You may have to hold them to keep them from spinning. They may fall out without the bolts holding them in. The lip in the center goes towards/into the glass.

Remove the 4 nuts holding the glass to the track. Carefully slide glass up and out. Disconnect power connector to motor. Remove 4 nuts, 2 at top and 2 at bottom of regulator. Lift regulator up and out. I think theyre all 10mm, but I forget. Should take like 5-10 min to remove. From there the motor is just a few phillips screws IIRC.

For an S13 anyways.
Last edited by daemonyk on Wed Feb 27, 2013 5:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.

mechanicalmoron
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And this is an S13 :yesnod

I appriciate it. But yeah, I'll have to wait to be with my tools.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Thanks for the step by step!!

daemonyk
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I was helpful! :woot: No prAHblem :bigthumb: I literally did mine the day before, so it was still fresh in my head. Broken power windows suck.

roofur
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hi
Welcome to this Forums site here u can
find lots of things i suggest you for your problem
you have to contact friends or any other expert.
i am not able to give you answers right now, sorry, for that!


2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS

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BigBoss
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Car: 1991 240sx Hatch RB20DET

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This may be a bit technical but cnn someone explain to me about resizing rods after getting new rod bolts? I ordered a set of arp bolts for my rb20 and as far as I've been told I have to get the big ends resized. How exactly do the distort with new bolts?

daemonyk
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To my understanding it's because the new fasteners may not hold the cap in exactly the same place as the previous ones. When the rods are initially made, the hole is machined with the fasteners that are used with it. Thats why you're supposed to re-use the same fasteners in the same place on the same rod. Same with things like cam caps and main caps. So when you switch the fasteners, they may make the cap sit slightly skewed from previously with the original fasteners. And uneven caps = bore is not perfectly rounded = uneven bearings = not good.

That's how I understand it anyways. Someone correct me if I don't have that quite right :bigthumb:

project240s
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Car: 1993 240sx coupe

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hello nico! im new to 240's my previous car was a 93 dodge stealth i recently purchased a very clean 93 coupe and hope to learn alot from all of you.

now for my question:
i have searched around for possible mods and projects to take on and i was interested on doing a s13 front end conversion maybe one day but in the process i wanted to rock the silvia hood 240 bumper and was looking for fog lights to wire in for looks

NOW I CANT SEEM TO FIND THESE...
Image

ive seen them before they are driving lights with a fog light built in sort of
they look like this -----> [_____]( )__________( )[_____]

mechanicalmoron
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I don't see that those are fogs, they might be, but it looks like seperate brights, and selective yellow dims, to me.

...not to mention, you won't get a ticket for having functional selective yellow lights, I don't think..... but fogs at oncoming traffic will TOTALLY get you a ticket, and for good reason.

Also, that's not a silvia hood, it looks like non-popup inserts for the stock hood.

You could just go find the lights you want, and fabricate your own inserts, pretty easily I think. Maybe even lexan them in so they look good, instead of like those....

(edit) no offence or anything, but those are totally hideous, just by the way. What I'm trying to describe with lexan would look more like z32 lights, which I think I actually remember seeing someone (online) put in an s13, though they had to do some serious cutting. Very few fixed lights look good with non-silvia bumpers, imo.
Last edited by mechanicalmoron on Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.

danshaz82
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those are Supermade lights
Image
i think this is what youre looking for
180-240sx-bumper-with-silvia-hood-t481835.html

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allenms240
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Yeah, these are things you could probably do with some sophisticated equipment (like a wideband O2 sensor), but for someone that doesn't have that stuff, just knowing which way you need to go with it is often good enough haha.

If pulling a vacuum line HURTS it, then definitely look into cleaning the MAF (or trying to find other vacuum leaks).

If it HELPS, then an idle control valve adjustment may be in order, or one of your other "primary" sensors might be out of wack, like coolant temp sensor.
For future purposes, it seems the problem is gone.

I had replaced air filter, cleaned MAF, and cleaned out the IACV (which was gunky). No more start then die problem!!

mechanicalmoron
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General car question, as it applies to an s13, but still, general:

Best cheap, versitile welder for car stuff? I'd rather something that runs on 110, as it's SO much easier to get a place to use it, but I hear they're all crap. But as long as it works as it's meant to for at least a reasonable amount of time, crap's fine with me, if the price is right.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Elec ... Tp8khwp_HQ
That's the one I have. It's flux core wire so you never have to worry about running out of gas... it just doesn't make the prettiest welds on the planet, but they'll hold.
You can also weld outside with it and not worry about the wind blowing away your shielding gas.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Elec ... Tp8khwp_HQ
That's the one I have. It's flux core wire so you never have to worry about running out of gas... it just doesn't make the prettiest welds on the planet, but they'll hold.
You can also weld outside with it and not worry about the wind blowing away your shielding gas.
Is it good on thin things? Can you weld stuff like body panels without worrying about burning through?

It's maximum power would worry me a bit.

And can it be set up for stick? I've only ever done gas and stick welding, though of course stick is awful on thin things.... I assume that's similar, only with a self-fed much longer stick? (I mean, the flux being the core is only so that the wire is flexible, right? shouldn't make much difference in the weld)

Although, yes, lincoln is my preferred company.... I could settle for harbor freight type crap, but I don't know that it would pay for itself before frying.
Last edited by mechanicalmoron on Mon Mar 25, 2013 10:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It's decent on thin things. I burn through every now and then, but then I just change up the weld method. Just stitch it instead of running a bead (or weld down instead of up).

No, it can't be set up for stick. It's strictly a MIG welder. You can choose different thickness wires, so thin wire would be good on thinner stuff. I'm running medium to thick wire right now though.

The flux core is so that during welding, it sort of outgasses a shielding gas as opposed to using a pure wire with a gas tank to supply the shielding gas.

millermi33
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Anyone here help me with a fair asking price for a 1971 240z? Is anyone interested in one?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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The price REALLY depends on it's condition, how much rust, etc.

Have you posted it for sale in the classifieds section?
The more pictures, the better.

mechanicalmoron
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Would someone with a stock cat lieing around measure it for me?

I need to know the flange width in the direction with bolts, the width in the direction perpendicular to that (wondering if I could make a 3-inch pipe, so that I could upgrade the exhaust however I felt like without making a new pipe, without either having it not fit, or causing flow/turbulance problems?), the bolt spacing center to center, the bolt hole size, the overall (flange-to-flange) length, and if there's anything else, like hangar hooks, on it.

Or just photos with a ruler would be great, too.

I'd really appreciate it. I have the ability to use some metalwork stuff, but not the ability to get under my car until after the metalwork oppertunity has passed.

If anyone has 1-piece strut tower bars (from a reputable company that has the geometry exactly right) I'd also really appreciate measurements of those.

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GTR PrYdE
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Wouldn't it be easier and cheaper to just buy one off eBay? I recently bought a stainless 3" test pipe for 30 shipped. I have a cat, but it'll be this afternoon before I can measure.

mechanicalmoron
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Well, it's entirely free, this way..... and I'd rather make something for my own car, than just buy it from china. Of course I understand it from someone with no other option, but I do have another option. It's fast and free and fun.

I would very much appreciate that, if you don't mind (and if it's a stock one, or one that would bold into a stock exhaust system).

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PapaSmurf2k3
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...and why can't you get under your own car and do it?

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:...and why can't you get under your own car and do it?
Because I'm at college. All I have here is a socket set and scredwriver, no where and no way to lift my car. But I do have access to all manner of welding, grinding, cutting, sandblasting, and various other tools.

Seems a shame to not take advantage of them, simply because I don't have a jack.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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What happened to your factory scissor jack?
why can't you just go buy a jack? I knew lots of people with jacks in college... myself included.


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