The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:What happened to your factory scissor jack?
why can't you just go buy a jack? I knew lots of people with jacks in college... myself included.
I never had the factory jack. You're just trying to make this complicated :p

Even if I had my jack here, I'd rather not use it, I have to drive onto 2x4's to get the car high enough. There's a proper lift I can use at home, I'd rather not raise the car again until I can use that.

Hopefully I'm getting help on IRC though, so all's well.I did realize, all I need is the overall length and the rotation of the flanges, I can just trace the new gaskets for the flange shape.


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GTR PrYdE
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX, 2003 Evolution VIII

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Sorry forgot about this til now

Total length including flanges 12 1/4"
Flange center to center 3 7/8" (although they have a wide oval hole, I guess to accommodate different exhaust widths.
Total flange with 5 1/4"

mechanicalmoron
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GTR PrYdE wrote:Sorry forgot about this til now

Total length including flanges 12 1/4"
Flange center to center 3 7/8" (although they have a wide oval hole, I guess to accommodate different exhaust widths.
Total flange with 5 1/4"
Sweet, thank you very much.

xGRIMx13
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Car: 1991 240sx with SR20DET JDM (black top) conversion project car

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Hi, I'm new to the 240sx world and I finally have my very own 1991 240sx with a Sr20det JDM engine swapped project car and it needs a lot of work. I was wonderinf if anyone knew the difference between kyb oem replacement strut and kyb oem performance replacement strut? Is the ride still comfortable with kyb performance replacement ones or does it get stiffer.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Do you have specific part numbers? Anything labeled "oem" wont be too stiff at all.

mechanicalmoron
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So, my motor's heavily worn, consumes an ungodly amount of oil and smokes as you'd expect.

But the are are no problems with the head gasket, or anything like that. No reason to suspect warping or anything.

If I was to have access to the space and tools to pull the motor out, but could NOT get anything machined (not a machine shop for hundreds of miles) would it be worth tearing it down, and re-sealing everything, lapping the valves, and getting new rings and bearings? Are the cylinder walls themselves going to be that worn, where they'll need to be bored, or is that just a formality for getting it really perfect for aftermarket pistons?

Compression is a bit over 120, it's been run lots with very thick oil so that it's actually drivable. I may have done some damage with seafoam in the oil, but I think that also might have just taken carbon off the seals and made some problems show themselves, everything was filthy. I think it may have been overheated a tad before I got it.

I'd been considering buying a long block, but jesus, those things cost nearly as much as a rebuilt motor, and I could do this for a few hundred dollars, if all went according to plan. Is it worth it, and would it work? Or would you have any suggestion on where to find a quality rebuild long block for a good price?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You always get the head checked/resurfaced when you pull it off.

Being that your car is worn so badly, your cylinders could actually be semi-oval, in which case you NEED to bore it.

At the very least you'd have to replace all your piston rings, re-hone the block, and replace all the seals, and PRAY that it all goes back together correctly. I've never had anywhere near that sort of luck. You're better off driving the hundreds or so miles to the machine shop... although I find it hard to believe there's nothing for hundreds of miles. If true, then you should look into opening one up ;)

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:You always get the head checked/resurfaced when you pull it off.

Being that your car is worn so badly, your cylinders could actually be semi-oval, in which case you NEED to bore it.

At the very least you'd have to replace all your piston rings, re-hone the block, and replace all the seals, and PRAY that it all goes back together correctly. I've never had anywhere near that sort of luck. You're better off driving the hundreds or so miles to the machine shop... although I find it hard to believe there's nothing for hundreds of miles. If true, then you should look into opening one up ;)
Well, there's a place in the classifieds.... I don't think it actually exists, that's what I've heard from frustrated (actual, as opposed to my type) gearheads. If it does, there's a very high probability that they survive simply because they're it, and related to everybody in town, and will mangle my motor and offer no compensation. That's the experience I've had with mechanics here.

I'd be more open to travel, but I don't have any proper way to move a motor so far. It's easy to find someone with a truck who will drive accross town, but going hours to a real city is another matter.



Proably too long, may not be worth the read, and you may recall this:

To give you an example of why I wouldn't really trust a shop here, my motor experienced a lot of totally unnecessary wear when an injector died, and I took it to a shop for what should have been a quick change, just because I couldn't get the screw out. (they used a vice grip and replaced it, anyways) It seemed fine, and a hundred miles later, started missing again. I couldn't figure it out, and did the fuel pump (thinking pressure had dropped and the worst injector had stopped working first), and when that did nothing, the computer, because neither I or anyone else could see how else the injector wouldn't fire. This was all in their parking lot, the whole time. Eventually it started leaking very gassy oil past the front seal, and I bought a compression testor (the shop wouldn't let me borrow one, to see if they wrecked my motor) to see if it was the rings. Turned out all the cylinders where fine (or at least, as fine as they had been while I've had the car), and I realized the ONLY thing was the repair that had just been done, which everyone had assumed was done right and could not be the problem. Turned out they'd left the TWO SCREWS that I paid them an hours labor to tighten, just a bit over hand tight, and the injector had been shifting and shredded the lower O-ring. It filled my oil with a quart or two of gas, and it came out very sparkly. They shrugged and said that it was good that I had fixed it and it was all fine now, when I told them. :bs: (I guess if I had had a good motor with full compression, it would have hydrolocked, having a combustion chamber full of liquid gas - I though even a stuck injector can do that. maybe if I tear this one apart, I'll find a slightly bent crank or other damage, anyways)

And those guys are considered one of the best shops in town. The alignment shop doesn't align stuff and charges. All that sort of thing.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Just get another motor to swap in. Don't mess with yours if all that has been done. For all you know, all your bearings are shot, the crank will need to be resurfaced, the cam bearing surfaces are shot, the head is too worn, etc.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Just get another motor to swap in. Don't mess with yours if all that has been done. For all you know, all your bearings are shot, the crank will need to be resurfaced, the cam bearing surfaces are shot, the head is too worn, etc.
hah, I know.

Problem is getting it. Being in the middle of nowhere, it's as hard to get a motor as it is to get machine work. It would be a matter of driving hundreds of miles for some ripoff artists with overpriced junk on craigslist. I'm like a few hundred miles from el paso, and I'm afraid to even drive into that city with money, all the motors there seem to be people's barrio chop shops, and other nearby cities are small and ignorant, but oil rich, and I don't have a chance of getting a good deal on a motor that's worth more than it's scrap content.

This is the west texas kind of middle of nowhere, I'm right by big bend. I could drive far enough to get accross like 5 states in some parts of the country, and not even be half way to a motor. I don't have a truck, even if I could find someone going on a trip I couldn't drag them around on what would probably be CL dead ends, and then maybe come home empty handed anyway.

If a car or motor doesn't drive on it's own volition here, it's very hard to move it.

CAL240
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Can I get a price check on an S13 JDM front clip with an SR20 in decent condition?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mechanicalmoron wrote:
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Just get another motor to swap in. Don't mess with yours if all that has been done. For all you know, all your bearings are shot, the crank will need to be resurfaced, the cam bearing surfaces are shot, the head is too worn, etc.
hah, I know.

Problem is getting it. Being in the middle of nowhere, it's as hard to get a motor as it is to get machine work. It would be a matter of driving hundreds of miles for some ripoff artists with overpriced junk on craigslist. I'm like a few hundred miles from el paso, and I'm afraid to even drive into that city with money, all the motors there seem to be people's barrio chop shops, and other nearby cities are small and ignorant, but oil rich, and I don't have a chance of getting a good deal on a motor that's worth more than it's scrap content.

This is the west texas kind of middle of nowhere, I'm right by big bend. I could drive far enough to get accross like 5 states in some parts of the country, and not even be half way to a motor. I don't have a truck, even if I could find someone going on a trip I couldn't drag them around on what would probably be CL dead ends, and then maybe come home empty handed anyway.

If a car or motor doesn't drive on it's own volition here, it's very hard to move it.
What kind of 240 do you have? You know you can fit a KA in the back of an S13 hatch right?

...or just buy another car until you have the means to fix the one you have.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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CAL240 wrote:Can I get a price check on an S13 JDM front clip with an SR20 in decent condition?
Typically they go for about 2 grand with motor and trans.

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
mechanicalmoron wrote:
What kind of 240 do you have? You know you can fit a KA in the back of an S13 hatch right?

...or just buy another car until you have the means to fix the one you have.
I did not know that. I'd considered it, but decided it probably couldn't be done safely and without damaging anything.

You mean in one piece?

Very good to know.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah I've seen people just use blocks of wood to accommodate the different height in oil pan. If you remove the oil pan, it's even easier. Just lay down some tarps haha.
I fit one of my KAs in my prelude's trunk :)
...the oil pan and head were removed... but still.

It seems like the majority of your problems stem around the fact that you have no tools and live too far away from anyone that has tools, or parts, or other automotive services.

I suggest you move and buy some tools haha.

mechanicalmoron
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Well, I'm happy to buy tools, I love any excuse to do so, in fact.... but the location is a real problem.

I wonder if the hatch opens very much higher without unbolting, with the struts removed....

CAL240
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
CAL240 wrote:Can I get a price check on an S13 JDM front clip with an SR20 in decent condition?
Typically they go for about 2 grand with motor and trans.

Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mechanicalmoron wrote:Well, I'm happy to buy tools, I love any excuse to do so, in fact.... but the location is a real problem.

I wonder if the hatch opens very much higher without unbolting, with the struts removed....
It does... but why would you need that?

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
mechanicalmoron wrote:Well, I'm happy to buy tools, I love any excuse to do so, in fact.... but the location is a real problem.

I wonder if the hatch opens very much higher without unbolting, with the struts removed....
It does... but why would you need that?
to make it easier to hoist a motor in, without smashing the rear trim.

darien87
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Hey dudes,

My wife is selling her 1991 240SX that she's had since it was new. It has 330,000 miles on it and needs some work, (oil leak, power steering leak, etc) but runs good and is in pretty good shape. Should be a great platform for setting up a track car. One of her friends says he can get $5,000 for it but that seems crazy. I didn't realize this car was so desirable. We're not looking to screw anybody over just get a fair market price for the car.

Is $3,000 a fair price?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/3778675736.html

Thanks for the help.

mechanicalmoron
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Your ad says rare.... that's reaching a bit.

But that does look to be, in general, a very nice specimen, other than the milage.

I think your friend's on crack, and 4k would be seriously pushing it, 3k might be, just because it's got a third more milage than most. But it does look like a nice body.

See what happens? if you're happy with 3k, then that's fine even if it sells fast, right?, if a lot of people whine, then there's your answer. It's regianally variable. I'll tell you that my (probably lowball) offer would be 1700, pending a good compression test and everything else checking out. I guess you also live in a high cost of living, and as such, generally inflated area, so maybe it's worth more than that.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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With the automatic and that many miles, I wouldn't be surprised if you had a tough time hitting 3 grand, then again it is California. Nothing wrong with asking high and testing the waters.

5,000 seems outrageous.

darien87
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Thanks for the info guys. The "friend" of my wife that used to sell cars is the one that said it was rare. But I had it up at $2,000 and got 10 e-mails the first day. And I saw other people selling theirs for 4 to 5k. So that's why I was thinking it was worth $3,000. It is quite expensive to live here in California.

So I'll leave it at 3k and if I don't get any bites I'll drop the price back down.

Thanks again for the help.

nickbequick
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I have a question concerning the angle of the motor when it's sitting in the car. This might not even matter but I just want to make sure that my SR is positioned properly. So if there is a right and wrong way to have an SR positioned in an S13, can someone please tell me the proper way the motor is supposed to be leaning? It's on nismo mounts if that makes a difference. Thanks
Nick

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You might have better luck posting that in the SR forum. I don't think they are exactly vertical... I could be wrong though.

nickbequick
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Ok. Thank you.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You could always just google "SR20DET" and I'm sure you'll get plenty of pics of one in the engine bay, and compare yours. Good luck man!

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allenms240
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Allen here again,

I have decided to replace my rear knuckle bushing with the ES kit since I found out they were blown last night. I looked around, and couldn't find a nice writeup for the rear knuckle bushings. I know that I can burn the old ones out, but what do I do about the inner metal race. Can I leave that piece there and install the new bushings, or does it need to come out? I plan to take off the knuckle, torch all bushings, and replace with the ES kit.

Also, I recently got new wheels. I paid Discount tire to mount and balance the tires on the rims (all brand new). After I got them fitting on the car, I took it to get an alignment. They set everything to spec except for the camber as I requested. However, my wheel shakes at about 45-55 MPH. I took a look around the front suspension and didn't find anything loose/ out of the norm. Then I looked at the back and that's when I saw the worn bushings. I also saw the camber arms were still loose from adjustments.
Mu question is, would those rear bushings/loose adjustment screws on my adjustable arms cause the steering wheel to shake at 45-55 MPH. Or should I take my rims back to discount and tell them to double check??


Thanks for the help and sorry for the book,
Allen

mechanicalmoron
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If the bolts are physically loose, you should look up the torque spec and torque it so it's safe to drive, drive it right back there, and demand that they check, and if necessary, re-align it....given that they gave you a car with loose suspension bolts.

That sounds like a front balancing issue that's causing the shaking, to me. But I know a car that does that, and has through several tire mountings and balancings, and the tire guys say it's because it can't be aligned right because of a bent frame... I don't believe it, the only way I can see that causing a shimmy is if the toe was so horribly off it was bouncing the wheel. But I could be slow.

Overall, if it worked before and now it doesn't, they did SOMETHING wrong. If they deny it, find a reputable shop that will agree to check out their work, and write up what they have to fix.... then take that bill to the first shop. Of course they won't pay it, but you should still do so, and then run it by the chamber of commerce, that discount tire screwed up your car in a dangerous way and wouldn't fix it. But I'm getting ahead of myself, first try to get them to fix it.

I think the inner collar of the bushings is usually sawsalled out. Or dremeled, if you don't have a sawsall but have all day. Maybe some bolt cutter type tools could do it, too.

My own question: is there anything I should know about brands before I try to replace my front lower control arms (for new bushings and ball joints) and tie rod ends? And before I get sway bar bushings (one of which is made of an old rag)? I get all sorts of horrible creaky noises when turning or on bumps, and I believe it to mostly be the ball joint, from my observations with the wheel off and a jack under the knuckle. I just want OEM stuff, are the $30 dorman arms on amazon okay? Or should I be shelling out for moog, which I think also makes the full assembly? Any other parts I should do at the same time, prefferably parts that I can buy whole with fresh bushings already in them?

Also, what exactly is an inner tie rod, and where does it end? is at actually part of the rack, or more of a middle tie rod? Is it something I should worry about?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah discount tire probably didn't balance it very well. Just tell them its for a sports car with super sensitive steering, and to get them as balanced as possible on a road force balancer.

I replaced my lower control arms with Moog. They weren't that much more expensive but bolted right in nicely. I used OE tie rod ends. I bought MOOGs for one of my 240s and they didn't last worth a s***.
The inner tie rod threads into the rack. You should only have to replace it if you've been in an accident and it got bent.


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