The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[MissMollyAnnax0]

Dunno if this is where I'm supposed to post but quick question! I own a 93 vert. When we bought the car, the seat belts weren't hooked up. My fiance installed them. They retract just fine but do not lock up like they're supposed to when you hit the brakes. I read somewhere on here that Nissan will fix your seatbelts for free, as long as they're not modified. Should I just replace the seat belts, attempt to fix them, or go to Nissan and pretend like we didn't mess with them?

Molly

[allenms240]

Molly,
I wasn't aware that verts have retractable seatbelts. From factory, mine came with manual seatbelts that were inside the door. If someone installed automatic ones, you're outta luck on getting free ones. They don;t like giving away free stuff, so they'll try to find any tampering with them to deny you, even if you weren't the one who did it. You should definitely replace them though if they aren't working properly, you might as well not be wearing them if they don't lock up. Try to tug on them really fast a few times to see if they lock up.
In that situation, I would replace them, or try to find out how you can get back to stock (they go in the door).

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong about the auto seatbelts in verts.

[allenms240]

Hmm finally got my car running and driving. At low rpm's it s very slow and hesitant, putts along and has no go. Took it to a 'shop' and the guy told me it was the maf. I originally had to sr20 maf on it and it wouldnt rev over 3k rpms at all just stopped like a governor, then i put a sohc maf on it and it revved fine so i thought it was fixed. He says i DO need an sr20 maf that the sohc maf will act up like mine (ive heard lots of people say itd work but mine is far from working). You think it really is the maf? I can find them all over but i cant find them with pigtails, and somehow i lost mine.

That sounds like a maf problem. You're best bet is to find an SR20 one like you've been trying.

[mechanicalmoron]

Molly,
I wasn't aware that verts have retractable seatbelts. From factory, mine came with manual seatbelts that were inside the door. If someone installed automatic ones, you're outta luck on getting free ones. They don;t like giving away free stuff, so they'll try to find any tampering with them to deny you, even if you weren't the one who did it. You should definitely replace them though if they aren't working properly, you might as well not be wearing them if they don't lock up. Try to tug on them really fast a few times to see if they lock up.
In that situation, I would replace them, or try to find out how you can get back to stock (they go in the door).

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong about the auto seatbelts in verts.

By retract, I think the poster meant retract back and coil up, not move like an auto seatbelt.

Technically, they're automatic, they consider the door opening to be the seatbelt moving, you're supposed to leave it latched. That's how they got around the federal law, at the time, that new cars came with automatic seatbelts. Of course, auto seatbelts are annoying, and they got rid of the rule. It's also, I think, why those years have the unlimited seatbelt warranty.

Anyways, check the FSM on the seatbelt, and make sure it's absolutely perfect and there's nothing that could hint at tampering, and then take it to a dealership. If you search you can find the warranty text that you need to show them, if they don't believe you. S13 seatbelts are warranted for the usable life of the car, so, as long as the thing rolls, and the seatbelt is original, you SHOULD be good, although they obviously might complain.

My questions: How exactly will modest lowering (1.5-2in) effect alignment (front or rear) and what would I need to change (or what adjustable things might I need) to keep it aligned right? And is there any particular reason that 3-400 dollars for tein basics (now discontinued, but apparently still servicable) with an alleged 20k on them, would be a bad deal or something I might not like on a daily? (I realize the damping is not adjustable, but I'm fine with stiff, just not rock solid).

[MissMollyAnnax0]

Molly,
I wasn't aware that verts have retractable seatbelts. From factory, mine came with manual seatbelts that were inside the door. If someone installed automatic ones, you're outta luck on getting free ones. They don;t like giving away free stuff, so they'll try to find any tampering with them to deny you, even if you weren't the one who did it. You should definitely replace them though if they aren't working properly, you might as well not be wearing them if they don't lock up. Try to tug on them really fast a few times to see if they lock up.
In that situation, I would replace them, or try to find out how you can get back to stock (they go in the door).

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong about the auto seatbelts in verts.

By retract, I think the poster meant retract back and coil up, not move like an auto seatbelt.

I have tried tugging on them, that's why I know they're not working. And yes, that's what I meant by retract. Dear God, I don't ever want my hatch's automatic seatbelts back again. Thank you, btw Will try this.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah there SHOULD be a section in your owner's manual that talks about seatbelt warranty.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

My questions: How exactly will modest lowering (1.5-2in) effect alignment (front or rear) and what would I need to change (or what adjustable things might I need) to keep it aligned right? And is there any particular reason that 3-400 dollars for tein basics (now discontinued, but apparently still servicable) with an alleged 20k on them, would be a bad deal or something I might not like on a daily? (I realize the damping is not adjustable, but I'm fine with stiff, just not rock solid).

Tein basics really aren't a bad street setup. They aren't overly stiff.

Lowering a car mainly affects camber. The lower you go, the more negative the camber will be. This is due to the suspension geometry where they control arms are mounted on the body/subrframe farther apart than they are on the knuckle (vertically speaking).
Most coilovers have adjustability in the front via the upper pillow ball mounts (basically where they bolt into the shock towers). Rear are a bit more complicated and usually require adjustable rear upper control arms to control the camber. Dropping 1.5" should really affect you TOO much... besides, a little extra camber can be a good thing anyway.

[mechanicalmoron]

My questions: How exactly will modest lowering (1.5-2in) effect alignment (front or rear) and what would I need to change (or what adjustable things might I need) to keep it aligned right? And is there any particular reason that 3-400 dollars for tein basics (now discontinued, but apparently still servicable) with an alleged 20k on them, would be a bad deal or something I might not like on a daily? (I realize the damping is not adjustable, but I'm fine with stiff, just not rock solid).

Tein basics really aren't a bad street setup. They aren't overly stiff.

Lowering a car mainly affects camber. The lower you go, the more negative the camber will be. This is due to the suspension geometry where they control arms are mounted on the body/subrframe farther apart than they are on the knuckle (vertically speaking).
Most coilovers have adjustability in the front via the upper pillow ball mounts (basically where they bolt into the shock towers). Rear are a bit more complicated and usually require adjustable rear upper control arms to control the camber. Dropping 1.5" should really affect you TOO much... besides, a little extra camber can be a good thing anyway.

Do you think that much camber change will have a big impact on tire wear? Also, is there somewhere I can find tein manuals online? Their website frustrated me, seems mostly translated and not that helpful.

Also, tell me about flywheel balancing: I see that it's reccomended with new fidanzas, for instance. So is it to get the pressure plate centered properly, so you'd need to provide a machinist with a full clutch kit and flywheel? How critical is it, really? How expensive is it? Would it generally be a part of resurfacing?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

New flywheels should really come in balanced. I don't see why they wouldn't do it at the factory (where they would have much more control over it). Where did you read that it is recommended?

Camber isn't really a huge deal for tire wear, to a point. If you have 0 toe in the front, it's not too bad at all, just don't cross more than like 3 degrees of negative camber and you should be ok. In the rear, I probably wouldn't go much more than 2 degrees of negative camber.

[mechanicalmoron]

I read that on fidanza's own website, when I was reading about replacing the friction surface, and how much it would cost (I saw a used one I was interested in). And I assume it needs to be balanced for that too, if they don't even think it can make it through UPS without needing it....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Or you can buy a flywheel from someone else.

[mechanicalmoron]

Or you can buy a flywheel from someone else.

Good plan

I'm not worried about it at the moment, have a full clutch kit in my trunk, and plans to do it when it needs it badly enough.

But in the long run, when I get a new motor I want it to go in with an aluminium flywheel and driveshaft, from the start. So I'm trying to stockpile parts. And if I can recondition used stuff and have the time to do it, so much the better.

*edit* emergency non-240/general question: Before my acquaintaince gets their exhaust welded for like 120 bucks (which I think is almost the cost of a harbor freight welder, if only I could use one) what can I do about a rotten/rusted cat flange? There's no gasket left, and the flange is shot. My answer would be to take a belt sander to it, throw a gasket in, torque it to spec and then some, and call it good, but I didn't see it with my own eyes, and I don't want to go jacking the car and tearing things out, and then find that I need a whole new flange. I don't think JB weld will take cat temps (though I could be wrong) and I get the idea that exhaust "putty" is for use with wrap type kits, and stays tacky. Is there something like JB weld that would take the heat and cure hard, that I could use to build up a mating surface if I need to?

[BigBoss]

i know most autoparts stores carry this type of "inferno paste" that i used on my exhaust manifold. held out for about 6 months until i got a new one. maybe not the same as your problem but maybe it will help!

[danshaz82]

can i use the buckets from one ka head on another? cause i ended up tossing all the ones from the head im using in a box, and i have the head i just took off with all of them still in it.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I believe you can swap buckets around, but you'll also either have to swap shims or grind down on the ends of the valve stems :/

[Winter180]

I found a used door from a s13 coupe, will it fit my hatch? Are the fenders interchangeable also?

[mechanicalmoron]

I found a used door from a s13 coupe, will it fit my hatch? Are the fenders interchangeable also?

Convertables have something funny with seatbelts in the door, I think. Normal coupes should have normal doors and fenders, as long as it's not a silvia fender.

But behind the doors, nothing from the visible body will fit, other than junk like antennas. I'm pretty sure. Maybe rear side markers.

[Winter180]

Its just USDM 240sx parts so the fenders and doors are good? thank you

[mechanicalmoron]

Well if I'm wrong don't hunt me down or anything..... but I wouldn't even think about it, if it was me and my money and all. They should be fine.

If you're getting your color, be mindful that they changed between the pig and shark noses. Like red DOHC cars are aztec red, but SOHC are something like super red, or something like that.

[Winter180]

The color is completely different, it is fine because i will get a paint job in the future. I just need parts that will fit because I am tight on money. Thanks. I think I will get the door and fender, unless someone states they don't fit.

[ToomuchBoost12]

Should I stay oem kouki sideskirts with usdm front and jdm valances or should I go Navan sides and valences with usdm front ??

[mechanicalmoron]

Should I stay oem kouki sideskirts with usdm front and jdm valances or should I go Navan sides and valences with usdm front ??

You should keep it like that.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You can do whatever you want, but holy crap that thing is low man. Do your wheels ever scrape the insides of your wheel wells?

[danshaz82]

i had to replace the plug on my harness for the knock sensor. i ended up having to use one from an Altima ka.
you can see that the small wire on the right is gray

but on my harness that wire is black. do you think that makes a difference? should i try and find one thats from a 240?

[moss500berg]

I've been searching and searching for a way to remove the piston retainer from my P/S rack so I can completely tear down the rack. I have no idea what size it is or if they're is a special way to remove it, I assume it just threads out, but I got it to come out about 2mm and then it got very tough to turn. Anyone have input on this?

This is what I'm trying to do
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/howtoo ... grack.html

It simply says 'remove end cap' but doesn't tell how, this is my first attempt at tearing down a rack and don't wanna f**k anything up

Thanks,

EDIT: I got it. It does just thread out

[PapaSmurf2k3]

i had to replace the plug on my harness for the knock sensor. i ended up having to use one from an Altima ka.
you can see that the small wire on the right is gray

but on my harness that wire is black. do you think that makes a difference? should i try and find one thats from a 240?

If the connector is the same, you'll be fine.

[danshaz82]

ok cool. thanks

[allenms240]

Just thought I'd try and get some ideas on a problem a friend is having. S13 Vert with KA24DE.

The starter is going out, I know that much and I need to replace it because sometimes it will click and nothing will happen, but after a few attempts it will begin to crank. The more puzzling problem is that sometimes it will crank, fire up, and almost immediately die without even reaching idle RPM. Any ideas on that. It happens moreso on cold starts than anything, and after a few tries of cranking and dying, it will idle and run fine. But this starting problem is getting annoying. The ignition system is fairly new (probably a year) as well as the fuel pump and fuel filter. Let me know what you guys think please.

[mechanicalmoron]

Clean IACV, MAFS, check TPS, make sure idle is in spec, make sure there's no fuel leaks around hose clamps or in old dry hoses.

I mean, once it's going, it runs fine? Or if you give it a bit of throttle? I'd think IACV, so before the motor's got the momentium and full vaccum, it gets choked out.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah I'd look for vacuum leaks. If you don't find any, try and induce one (pull a small hose from the intake manifold or something) and see if that fixes it. If it does, your IACV is probably not where it should be.

Basically, we have to determine if the vehicle is too rich or too lean during startup. You can also try to fiddle with the ignition timing to see if it helps. It might not be the root cause, but you might be able to adjust it to help it in the mean time.