The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[danshaz82]

whats the little brass nipple looking thing? i remember reading it somewhere a few years ago

also, the new KA thats going in doesnt have that. is that a problem?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I've seen everything from a $100 aluminum overflow tank, to a $2.35 (minus energy high) Monster energy drink can.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

whats the little brass nipple looking thing? i remember reading it somewhere a few years ago

also, the new KA thats going in doesnt have that. is that a problem?

Pilot bushing? I remember mine being ON the crankshaft though.

[danshaz82]

naa, i know the pilot bushing.
razi said that its just a guide pin or something like that

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah that makes sense, guide/alignment pin.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Please post images correctly

[charat]

Hye guys, so i'm about to make some progress on my 240... I was just wondering, would it be possible to scrounge together a supercharger system for the KA24DE for about $500-$600 bucks? I'm not looking for crazy gains, I'm shooting for about 180-200 WHP...

[PapaSmurf2k3]

If you have killer fab skills, and access to cheap steel and machining work (as well as maybe a supercharger from a frontier or Xterra or something), then yeah, it's possible. Use basic RRFPR for fuel control or something.

[charat]

sweet thanks a bunch!

[sunhawk]

i have A 95 se model. shouldn't both doors unlock when i turn the key clockwise in the driver side door key lock cylinder?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hmm... My 240 doesn't have power locks, but typically every other car I've seen wont unlock ALL the doors when you do that. You usually have to turn it twice or something. I think its a security feature like if you're being harassed by someone you don't want it to unlock their door as well, so just you can get in and make a speedy getaway.

[mechanicalmoron]

i have A 95 se model. shouldn't both doors unlock when i turn the key clockwise in the driver side door key lock cylinder?

I have a 92 so it might well be different, but everything done to the driver lock, the passenger lock does, wether you turn they key or do it from the inside, the passenger lock follows. When you operate the passenger lock, the driver lock does nothing.

The motor on my passenger door is a little weak, and/or it's a little gummed up, it doesn't always move it far enough to lock/unlock it. See if you can hear anything on that side.

[danshaz82]

does this look fixable? theres a small piece of the wire sticking out from the plug. its the male end of the VSS

would i be able to put the stripped part of the wire into the plug if i pulled the broken part out? or would i be better of soldering?

[mechanicalmoron]

does this look fixable? theres a small piece of the wire sticking out from the plug. its the male end of the VSS

would i be able to put the stripped part of the wire into the plug if i pulled the broken part out? or would i be better of soldering?

Are you good at soldering?

I'd use a razor to carve out the plug around to the side to expose as much wire as possible, and then try to solder it. But that's just me, and I don't know what's inside the plug. I assume that the back end of the contact is soldered to the wire, and you would not be able to fix it by just putting the new wire in.

This isn't really a 240 question, but:

I'd like a short wave radio, but not just any short wave radio. I want to be able to hear and talk on CB channels, and I want to be able to scan/hear police, fire, EMS, weather, and anything else there is to hear. It needs to be able to scan trunked/complex networks, and ideally should have a proximity alert of some sort for law enforcement channels. It wouldn't hurt if it also incorperated some sort of radar detector, I suppose. And I need to be able (obviously) to select what I hear when. I'd like for it to have RCA connectors that I can T into my sterio before the amp to have it come over whatever I'm listening to, and I'd like it to fit a standard car radio bay, so that I can put it in my dash with my radio.

Also needs a safety system so I wouldn't be accidentally talking on (and getting in trouble for talking on) channels other than CB.

Out of curiosity, would I be able to use my FM antenna for this, and would I be able to T it so that it's also still on my normal sterio?


Anyways, any suggestions?

[danshaz82]

tried to solder. not enough wire on the back of the plug. looks like im gonna have to try and snag one from the junk yard

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You SHOULD be able to take the pin out of the connector and it will have a little wire left on the back. Then you can take them outside of the connector, solder them, and re-insert the pin.

[charat]

So i'm in the process of what is basically rebuilding my 240sx... I'm trying to get some numbers. I want to go from a brown interior to a black one. Minus the seats, how much would it cost me for a full black interior?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Assuming you can live with a cracked dash, you can probably get it all done for under $500 via junkyard or NICO classifieds.

[sunhawk]

i have a 95 se manual for my daily driver and wondering. if i replace bushings should i go with an oem type product or urethane?

[rb20dethelp]

Hello, im looking at buying a nissan harbody pickup truck, but it actually has an rb20det in it, but the transmission wont physically go into fifth... can anybody help me?

[mechanicalmoron]

To remove the transmission, does one have to move or drain any clutch hard lines? Or is there a soft section to the little squishy-izing block assembly, and then another to the slave?

And, when doing a clutch job, how much farther out of the way is it to get the rear engine oil seal? I'm not finding the picture I need in the FSM, but the flywheel needs to come off? And how much else? How much extra time, assuming I have compitent help and have already found all the info and FSM stuff I need?

And are there any torque to yield bolds or gaskets or anything else I should know about, that won't come in a standard oem-type (auto-zone) clutch kit?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

i have a 95 se manual for my daily driver and wondering. if i replace bushings should i go with an oem type product or urethane?

Either or would be fine. If it's strictly a daily driver, I'd probably go with OEM. If you drive it at all spirited, do either. If you track it at all, go with urethane.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hello, im looking at buying a nissan harbody pickup truck, but it actually has an rb20det in it, but the transmission wont physically go into fifth... can anybody help me?

Will it do it with the car off/not running? Is there anything stopping the actual lever itself from going into 5th?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

To remove the transmission, does one have to move or drain any clutch hard lines? Or is there a soft section to the little squishy-izing block assembly, and then another to the slave?

And, when doing a clutch job, how much farther out of the way is it to get the rear engine oil seal? I'm not finding the picture I need in the FSM, but the flywheel needs to come off? And how much else? How much extra time, assuming I have compitent help and have already found all the info and FSM stuff I need?

And are there any torque to yield bolds or gaskets or anything else I should know about, that won't come in a standard oem-type (auto-zone) clutch kit?

Just unbolt the slave from the trans. You don't need to open the hydraulic system at all.

To do the rear main seal, you have to pull the flywheel, which you should do anyway to get it resurfaced or replaced. After that, its about a 10 minute job.

When doing a clutch, the things you should have/replace are:
Clutch disk
pressure plate
flywheel (either resurface or replace)
Throw out bearing
inspect pivot fork bolt
Rear main seal is a great idea
you'll also need fresh gear oil... as I'm sure yours will leak out when you pull the drive shaft.

[SoCal-S13]

So i'm in the process of what is basically rebuilding my 240sx... I'm trying to get some numbers. I want to go from a brown interior to a black one. Minus the seats, how much would it cost me for a full black interior?

not much. i used patience and a rattle can.

Before:



After:

[mechanicalmoron]

To remove the transmission, does one have to move or drain any clutch hard lines? Or is there a soft section to the little squishy-izing block assembly, and then another to the slave?

And, when doing a clutch job, how much farther out of the way is it to get the rear engine oil seal? I'm not finding the picture I need in the FSM, but the flywheel needs to come off? And how much else? How much extra time, assuming I have compitent help and have already found all the info and FSM stuff I need?

And are there any torque to yield bolds or gaskets or anything else I should know about, that won't come in a standard oem-type (auto-zone) clutch kit?

Just unbolt the slave from the trans. You don't need to open the hydraulic system at all.

To do the rear main seal, you have to pull the flywheel, which you should do anyway to get it resurfaced or replaced. After that, its about a 10 minute job.

When doing a clutch, the things you should have/replace are:
Clutch disk
pressure plate
flywheel (either resurface or replace)
Throw out bearing
inspect pivot fork bolt
Rear main seal is a great idea
you'll also need fresh gear oil... as I'm sure yours will leak out when you pull the drive shaft.

I was hoping to get away without resurfacing the flywheel, given the condition of the motor and the fact that I'm putting a 100 dollar clutch in. I'm only doing the clutch because the current one is very bad, and at this rate, will fail before the motor -- but it's a stop-gap measure to squeeze life out of the current drivetrain, and I don't want to spend money on a flywheel, and won't have time to get it resurfaced, I'll be using a lift/shop that I really only have access to for a day, wanted to do it all in one session.

Knowing this, would you say it's a must to resurface the flywheel?

There's the kit: (but adding a flywheel costs another 100 from auto-zone, and I think that's re-manufactured in the first place)


I mean, I'm foggy on how this works.... would it potentially be possible to re-gap the current clutch and use it for much longer? At the present, once it's engagued, it doesn't slip... but last time I had to roll-start it, I had to go almost 20mph, dumping the clutch doesn't really work.

....I don't suppose both sides of the flywheel are the same? That would be way too easy.

*edit* another related thing, does the driveshaft, if you remove the center support/bearing, make some sort of mess? Or come apart? Do you remove both parts to get the transmission out? And are there any special tools or anything that I need? The FSM is NOT helpful on the driveshaft, all it says about removal is to "draw out from transmission" or something.... Is the center support just mated to a sealed bearing, so that I can take out the support and let the shaft hang on it's universal joint, without removing it from the diff?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah, just unbolt that carrier bearing and unbolt it from the rear diff to remove the whole thing.

I've never done a clutch job without doing the flywheel. The clutch sort of wears a big ring into the flywheel, and if either the disk is a slightly different size than the old one, or there is any misalignment whatsoever, you'll end up clipping the outside of that ring and your clutch would probably last all of about 5 minutes.

...and what do you mean re-gap the current clutch?
If the clutch isn't slipping, why would you replace it? What symptoms is the car showing that makes you think you need to replace the clutch?
The only special tools you'll need are a torque wrench and the alignment tool, which comes in the kit.

[Toxsyl]

If you have a S14 you may also want to change the clutch fork itself.

[mechanicalmoron]

yeah, just unbolt that carrier bearing and unbolt it from the rear diff to remove the whole thing.

I've never done a clutch job without doing the flywheel. The clutch sort of wears a big ring into the flywheel, and if either the disk is a slightly different size than the old one, or there is any misalignment whatsoever, you'll end up clipping the outside of that ring and your clutch would probably last all of about 5 minutes.

...and what do you mean re-gap the current clutch?
If the clutch isn't slipping, why would you replace it? What symptoms is the car showing that makes you think you need to replace the clutch?
The only special tools you'll need are a torque wrench and the alignment tool, which comes in the kit.

It hardly grabs, it bites almost at the top of the pedal travel, which is a dramatic change.

It WAS doing what I think is referred to as "chatter", where when I would start in a normal way, at like 1200rpm, it would shake the car pretty hard, which I think was each powerstroke slipping it. It no longer does that, but has a much gentler engaguement in general.

I hope to nurse this motor for many thousands of more miles (when I replace it, I want to have the time and money to do it right, instead of half-assing it and still spending a bunch of money), but it doesn't seem like the clutch is going to make it more than a handful more miles. I can't sit stopped in gear or anything, but it feels like it's getting worse fast.

I guess not having the flywheel done would also possibly make the new clutch slip, if it's sitting too far in?

Would a cheap ebay flywheel (like http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NISSAN-240S ... 02&vxp=mtr ) be a horrible idea?

And what's the proper rear main seal? Auto-zone seems to have different looking things listed.... is this it? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 3_124554_0_

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The rear main seal is a circle. And, I wouldn't trust anything off Ebay that is being sold with no warranty or reviews, and is THAT deep inside your drivetrain.
This is probably the part you're looking for:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/12279-seal ... cPath=1418&

Have you tried adjusting your clutch pedal? Maybe for some reason your jam nut loosened up and your pedal has been stroking down little by little.