The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Quick question guys. Answers are much appreciated. Where could I find engine parts for a pulsar gtir sr20det or can I just use parts off of a 240sx sr20det?

It probably depends on what you're looking for, but I would think most stuff could be transferred and be functional.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I am going to try to check for codes.

Is there a vacuum diagram that shows where all of the vacuum lines on a single cam KA are supposed to go?

Also, what are electrical shorts and bad grounds and how do I check for them? I really don't know anything about automotive wiring and electronics

Vacuum and electrical diagrams should be available through the factory service manual. There's a link to it in my signature.

Electrical shorts are when a wire is running from one thing to another (say from a sensor to the ECU), but the wire is maybe rubbing up another wire, or the chassis or something (and the insulation is worn through). That changes the signal that the ECU sees, and causes havoc.

Bad grounds are say if the ground wire is just completely broken, or corroded.

[TunerPharm]

Quick question guys. Answers are much appreciated. Where could I find engine parts for a pulsar gtir sr20det or can I just use parts off of a 240sx sr20det?

It probably depends on what you're looking for, but I would think most stuff could be transferred and be functional.

Thanks. I'm thinking of purchasing a pulsar to be used as my drag car but I don't wanna put myself in a situation where I cant find parts.

[Toxsyl]

I recently changed my Alternator and now my belts squeal quite loudly. Is it possible that I may have not tightened them proper or should I go ahead and replace them even though they are relatively fresh?

Also when driving the is a "thunk" sound from the rear and I cant figure what it is. I check the entire rear end and everything is set. Is it my shocks which are blown or something I missed?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah try tightening the belt a bit and see what it does. Don't go too far though, you can shorten the life of your pulley.

The thunk from the rear is most commonly caused by a bad subframe bushing. You should also check your U-joints in the driveshaft too.

[GTR PrYdE]

Having a decent belt will help with squealing too. I haven't had good luck with ecomony belts from autozone/oreilly/advace. Ended up buying their most expensive ones. I have Gatorback belts on my S13 and Gates on my D21, and it helped a ton with squealing

[PapaSmurf2k3]

^Absolutely correct. If you think of belts like tires, when they get old and dry rotted, their traction is reduced. You can compensate for that with extra tension in the belt, but you might wear your pulleys faster. Its always best to replace old s*** belts.

Thanks for chiming in man.

[Toxsyl]

Yeah try tightening the belt a bit and see what it does. Don't go too far though, you can shorten the life of your pulley.

The thunk from the rear is most commonly caused by a bad subframe bushing. You should also check your U-joints in the driveshaft too.

I'll tighten my belts this Thursday and see.

The thunk happens when I accelerate. So the driveshaft sounds like the source.

[GTR PrYdE]

Perhaps the rubber bushing between the driveshaft/transmission. Shaft masters!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'd probably jack it up and test it out before you go buying parts. Grab a wheel and spin it, or grab the driveshaft and spin it by hand.

[Toxsyl]

So what am I looking for?
How well it spins, noises, or stiffness?

Edit:

When I switch to the RB25DET transmission.
Will my gears be mirrored in their position?
531 or 135
R42....24R

[PapaSmurf2k3]

How well it spins, noises, free play, a bunch of grease slathered all over the bottom of your car in the U-joint area, etc.

Gate pattern should remain the same.

[Toxsyl]

So with the RB25 transmission my first gear will be in the same location as the KA24's 1st gear.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Up and to the left. I've never shifted one, but yeah. Its not a dogleg transmission or something.

[mechanicalmoron]

.....it's not reverse for RHD transmissions?

On the subject of free play and clunks from the rear:

if I twist the driveshaft by hand, i have like a quarter to half inch of free rotation, with the parking brake set. I can see the axle on the side that makes my funny noises and shaking move, between .5mm and 2mm, i'd say.

Is this excessive? I'm still thinking I have a bad axle, my rattling brake was setting it off but it still does it's shaking/thumping thing in some situations.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The gate pattern doesn't change based on what country you are in. It would be pretty silly to re-design entire transmissions and layouts because of that.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_stick

That driveshaft play doesn't sound too bad. No noises or other funky stuff going on right?

[mechanicalmoron]

The gate pattern doesn't change based on what country you are in. It would be pretty silly to re-design entire transmissions and layouts because of that.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_stick

That driveshaft play doesn't sound too bad. No noises or other funky stuff going on right?

Ahh, I honestly don't know how a shifter works, I figured something went in upside down or something.... cause that sucks for RHD people then, it's way more intuitive to have low gears on the drivers side, IMO.

As far as my driveshaft play, yes, horrible thumping and shaking when I hit a bump or accelerate while cornering, from one rear wheel. I THINK it's the axle, the other one looked like it didn't have as much play.

I'd thought it was my loose brake catching, and it was, to a degree... it was defnitley aggrevating the situation. But it's still not cured.

*edit* screw my longstanding CV joint BS.... sudden electrical problems.
*edit2*fixed, I was just being dumb... back to cv stuffs.

[240man91]

Check the rubber bushing inbetween the front shaft and back shaf it will make it do that if its wore out or losse.

[Toxsyl]

I actually have blown shocks so that could be a factor, cause my dad and his friend recently put the car on a lift to inspect it and seem to think everything else is good.

[allenms240]

Hey there guys,
I am having a little t rouble with some oil pressure on a rebuilt sr20det.
I rebuilt it and got about 400miles on it currently. After initial warm up, the oil was changed, and again after 50miles. The oil in there now has 350miles on it. The other day I went ahead a installed my manual boost controller and have finally been boosting the motor. The other night I noticed that after boosting hard, the oil pressure was pretty low. I was running about 20psi at 2krpm and about 9psi at idle. This was the first time it has run this low, up until now I had acceptable values. The gauge sender is an electric GReddy unit so I don't think that is the problem. The next morning I started the car and was reading the usual 80ish psi for cold start.
The oil pump was replaced (bought of a user who has about 500miles on it from new), the oil sump o ring was replaced in the rebuild, and an ISIS oil pan is on the motor, so I don't think it is a problem with the sump.

Could it be this conventional oil is breaking down early because of the heat the motor is causing? I am using 10w-30 valvoline conventional. In a few days the amsoil 10w-30 will be here and that is the synthetic I will be using.

Any ideas?

EDIT:
I changed the oil today to Amsoil 10w-30 and slapped on a new oil filter. I went to get some food, the car warmed up, all pressures looked good. After I left the food joint, the oil pressure was as it was before, it's low and it's worrying me. I got to school and shut the car off and waited for ten minutes. I then started the car and the oil pressure was fine. I was reading acceptable oil pressures. I'm sure that if I leave the car on for over a minute though, the pressure will drop. So, what could be causing this low oil pressure? Need some ideas fast because it's my daily driver.

Allen

[Toxsyl]

Have you tried 5w-30?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Sounds like you have a seal somewhere that isn't leaking until it gets warm and/or creates the initial "burst" to initiate the leak.

Either that or there is a solenoid somewhere that is shorting out and staying open, causing a large internal oil leak or something.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Also check your oil level, if you're starving the pump, that could cause low pressure.

Does it still run and drive fine?

[allenms240]

The car drive fine, no exterior oil leaks. I'm scared to go above 3k though. And wouldn't thinner oil make it run even less pressure?

As for interior seals or solenioids, where are they? I know there is the oil sump o ring, an o ring on the oil pump to block, and 2 gaskets on the filter assembly. Are there any others?

Thanks for the suggestions.

EDIT: The gauge is functional. I tested it with an analog gauge and getting the same results.
I plan to order all new gaskets/o rings, I just need to know what all there is int he oil system.
So far I have oil strainer o-ring, the 2 o ring/washers on the filter assembly, and the o ring between the block and the timing chain cover. What else is there?

Also, it sounds like a seal, not the actual pump, right?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yes, thinner oil would result in less pressure normally.

Inner seals you're looking at the pickup tube to oil pump, a few channels in the oil pump, and uhh... that's about it really haha. Internal bleeding could be from a cracked channel or tube as well, not just a seal. It could also be caused by a bunch of s*** stuck to the face of your pickup screen. That happend in my Prelude when the doooshbags at Dobbs Honda simply scraped all gasket surfaces into the oil galleys.

Did you pull the engine and rebuild it? Did you have the pan off when you did it?

[allenms240]

So most of these seals are in the actual pump?
When you mention a cracked channel, are you referring to the oil galleys in the block?
When I take of the front cover and oil pan I will inspect everything of course.

Yes this was an actual rebuild on a stand. I had everything off and sent the block in for honing and the head for decking. The oil pickup looked fine when I installed it.
Would you happen to know any alternative Nissan part numbers for the oil pickup o-ring? I found some numbers for the other seals. I want to try and buy them fron the dealership so I can do it soon and get the car back on the road. Would the O ring be the same as a KA? (IIRC, the KA oil pickup uses a gasket, not an O-ring).

Papa, I appreciate your help on this, you are quite knowledgeable

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Unfortunately I've never spent an extended period of time inside an SR, so I really can't answer the questions about its intricate oiling system.

Realistically, this is far beyond the scope of "I'm new here and I have a simple question" haha. You might want to just make your own thread about it.

And yes, by cracked channel, I'm referring to a leak present in any part of the plumbing of the oiling system.

[allenms240]

Hahaha thanks for the help anyways I just didn't want to open a new thread for it.

Also,how would I perform a leak down test on just the oil system? Is this an option?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I certainly don't know of any off the shelf method.
I mean, if the engine were out of the vehicle you could try submerging the pickup in some oil and spinning the engine by hand, checking for random leaks.

[Toxsyl]

I found out why my alternator would squeal.
The bolt that holds the other bolt to add tension to the belt was stripped from age and came loose, and would cause the belt to lose tension and come off the alternator partially and ground the tread off.