The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[mikes13jonz]

i just instaled s14 sr20 in to my s13... spools nice and very quick! i just cant get past 118mph.. i was wondering why? was thinking my ecu but im stumped on thaat one. so essentially my question is why cant i get past 118mph?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Are you on the factory ECU? They have speed limiters in them.

[allenms240]

PapaSmurf, Just thought I'd update you on the problem I was having with my oil pressure. Turns out it was the pickup o-ring

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Good deal man! I had a feeling it was some sort of internal seal

[sunhawk]

led replacement bulbs for stock light fittings in a s14

yay or nay?

if yay where are the good ones?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

like, interior lights?
Try http://www.superbrightleds.com/

[allenms240]

Another problem, my oil squirters for the cams arent spitting out oil. I blew air through them and they aren't clogged. I pulled off the valve cover and had my buddy crank the motor while I watched them, oil spewed all over the back of the engine where the oil squirters bolt down too, but no oil THROUGH them.
My question is, is there some sort of banjo bolt you're supposed to use with these? Because if the squirter gets oil from that bolt, aren't we 'plugging' that hold up by bolting down the cam cap? I assume I have the right bolts because they are slighter taller than the rest to compensate for the size of the banjo on the squirters. I think this might have always been a problem, I just didn't notice it until now.

So, why is oil spewing out of the place where the oil squirter is bolted, and not letting oil through the actual feed?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

IIRC the oil passes through a channel, which goes up into the cam through one of the bearings. There should be a hole in the cam bearing somewhere and a notch type thing in the cam itself, and a hole within that notch that allows the cam to fill with oil and squirt everywhere.
At least that's how it worked on the KA anyway (and my Miata).

[gettinitslIdwys]

Ok, so I'm new here and I looked all over for the search bar and couldn't find it anyone give me a clue on that? Now the reason I'm here is I decided to turbo my Ka I've been on this project 3 years and the general consensus is wayy to much money, that aside I finally got my engine home and was about to drop it in when, I realised I didn't know how the heater hoses hook up and I think I lost one of them, but maybe not. Can anyone please help, or tell me where I can look for help because I really need my car back.... there are more issues but this is the current one, maybe someone in the Portland area that could help idk

[PapaSmurf2k3]

The search bar is to the far right, above all the forum links and user control panel, "view your posts", etc.

First off you're going to need to get a new hose for that heater core. Really you might want to pick up 2, they would be a bit of a pain to change out.

Now IIRC, one hose comes off a flange on the block, and the other goes to the head? I could be wrong on that second part.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Although there is probably a diagram in the FSM.

[gettinitslIdwys]

I have the shop manual and it does not quite say where they hook up just the flow of the water, so my next question to you would be does the block connect to the top one or the bottom one in the firewall

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I want to say the bottom one....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Start reading at LC-5 in the factory service manual.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/91-94/LC.pdf

[gettinitslIdwys]

Ok like say I have this as a pdf lc-6 is where it gives me any help but because it's a top down view it doesn't really answer any question I'm asking if I could show you the pics maybe that would clerify

[mikes13jonz]

Are you on the factory ECU? They have speed limiters in them.

yes its the factory s14 ECU. could i delete the limiter or do i need to get stand alone engine management?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You need an ECU reflash to get rid of all of them IIRC. There should be a speed limiter, 4th gear RPM limiter, and 5th gear RPM limiter.

[danshaz82]

nevermind, i answered my own question. couldnt delete the post tho

[jbreze]

Hi again.

Is it okay to reuse splash-fouled spark plugs? My new plugs look splash-fouled according to this guide http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html mine are not that bad though

If the gap on one spark plug is off, will it mess with the AFR? I'm running very rich. I smell gas in my oil and out the exhaust.
I will be testing the FPR and the valves

some info
-pulled fuel rail for pressurized test. no leaks
-cleaned MAFS with windex
-smooth 800 rpm idle
-tested TPS and coolant temp sensor. all within specs according to tutorial
-new o2 sensor, fuel filter, wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve
-cleaned IACV, PAIR valves
-good compression (180-180-180-160/170)

While the engine was running i unscrewed the oil cap and i felt pulsating air. Is this normal?

Thank you

[allenms240]

Papasmurf,
Thanks for all your help, this is why I come here with my problems. I had the wrong bearing cap on. I had swapped 1 and 5.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hi again.

Is it okay to reuse splash-fouled spark plugs? My new plugs look splash-fouled according to this guide http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html mine are not that bad though

If the gap on one spark plug is off, will it mess with the AFR? I'm running very rich. I smell gas in my oil and out the exhaust.
I will be testing the FPR and the valves

some info
-pulled fuel rail for pressurized test. no leaks
-cleaned MAFS with windex
-smooth 800 rpm idle
-tested TPS and coolant temp sensor. all within specs according to tutorial
-new o2 sensor, fuel filter, wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve
-cleaned IACV, PAIR valves
-good compression (180-180-180-160/170)

While the engine was running i unscrewed the oil cap and i felt pulsating air. Is this normal?

Thank you

You should be able to just clean the splash fouled plugs, or spend the ~$10 on new ones.
The gap will really only mess with the AFR if your gap is SO far off that you aren't getting any combustion (or partial combustion).
If you can smell gas in your oil, that is BAD. You should really change it as soon as possible to prevent permanent engine damage to your bearings and cylinder walls, etc.

Usually if you're running that rich, you won't have a smooth idle. Is it rich the entire time? Cold and hot?
I'd probably see if you can introduce an air intake/leak after your MAF just to get things in check while you try to figure it out. Maybe disconnect one of the resonators or something and let it suck in straight air. Check your fuel pressure. Check your ignition timing. If its far enough off, you might not be burning all your fuel.
Pulsing through the crankcase is normal, to a point. That's what the PCV is supposed to take care of. It usually doesn't overcome ALL of the pressure differential though.

Papasmurf,
Thanks for all your help, this is why I come here with my problems. I had the wrong bearing cap on. I had swapped 1 and 5.

[Toxsyl]

when I have my clutch in and the car will not go in gear means my Clutch is about to die?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Depends on the gear. Your synchros could be going bad. See if double clutching helps.
Your clutch hydraulics could also be going bad (master and slave cylinder). Check your fluid level. If its black, you might want to swap the master and slave. You could also adjust the throw (lengthen the stroke) via the master cylinder fork to get by for a while.

[Toxsyl]

So far it's reverse since I never checked the others.
I'll check fluids tomorrow.
So how much is a full clutch? Price ranges for something stock for now.

Edit: The S13 and S14 VLSD rear diffs are the exact same? I'm thinking of trying my luck on the classifieds if this is true.

[jbreze]

So i adjusted my idle and i had to turn the screw all the way in until it wouldn't turn anymore. With TPS back on the idle is about 750. Then i checked my timing with a light. It was off 1 notch. I also set my spark plug gaps to .044. The exhaust still smells like gas after all that.

It smells when engine both hot and cold.

When you say "disconnect one of the resonators", are you talking about one of the 2 visible hoses on the air box intake? between the throttle and the MAF sensor?

I bought a fuel pressure gauge kit and a vacuum pump, so i will be testing the pressure and the FPR

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So far it's reverse since I never checked the others.
I'll check fluids tomorrow.
So how much is a full clutch? Price ranges for something stock for now.

Edit: The S13 and S14 VLSD rear diffs are the exact same? I'm thinking of trying my luck on the classifieds if this is true.

I found diffs to vary even within chassis years (like halfshaft output/bolt pattern). Best to get a picture of one and compare it to your own for optimum ease of swappage.

Doing the clutch yourself shouldn't cost more than $200. Having a shop do it, figure about $600.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So i adjusted my idle and i had to turn the screw all the way in until it wouldn't turn anymore. With TPS back on the idle is about 750. Then i checked my timing with a light. It was off 1 notch. I also set my spark plug gaps to .044. The exhaust still smells like gas after all that.

It smells when engine both hot and cold.

When you say "disconnect one of the resonators", are you talking about one of the 2 visible hoses on the air box intake? between the throttle and the MAF sensor?

I bought a fuel pressure gauge kit and a vacuum pump, so i will be testing the pressure and the FPR

On the intake tube there should be a few "boxes" coming off of it (assuming it's stock). Those are resonators meant to quiet the intake down. You should be able to remove one of those, or you could try your luck with the hose that goes to the valve cover too.

[charat]

Just wondering, what is the maximum HP you can get out of a stock KA24DE with basic bolt ons and ECU tuning and still have a safe and reliable engine? freshly rebuilt engine built with stock internals.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Basic bolt ons meaning non forced induction, you're probably looking at about 165-170 at the wheels.

Basic bolt ons meaning forced induction, about 300whp.

[speakeasy]

Recommendations for a replacement for a cracked overflow tank? Finally got around to draining my radiator (just in time for winter...) so I figure I should replace the cracked original tank as well. I've read around and while some people are saying you should get the metal ones, others are saying those are pretty lousy, though there seem to be a bunch of different brands. Would appreciate being pointed in the right direction.