The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
mars13
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Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:59 pm
Car: 1990 240sx

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when i press the pedal halfway it feels like im letting it go it also feels like its kind of running on 3 cylinders so im also thinking maybe it could be dizzy cap and rotor


sunhawk
Posts: 27
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:58 pm
Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se unmodified well maintained garaged

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so i had been living in japan for the past 6 years driving skyline gts-t, terrano, impreza gt wagon, and a suzuki st250 bike. came back to the states got my 240sx from storage and took it to a dealership for a once over. they say the steering rack has a leak. the car does have this slight pull to the right and the steering wheel goes the right when i'm not holding it straight. could a slight leak in the rack cause this pull and odd steering? the wheel does feel a little softer turning clockwise then counterclockwise. is it time to get a reman rack installed? i have had the alignment the wheel balance and tire pressures checked several times by different people.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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It sounds like you have a toe/caster problem. I'd start by getting the alignment checked.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mars13 wrote:when i press the pedal halfway it feels like im letting it go it also feels like its kind of running on 3 cylinders so im also thinking maybe it could be dizzy cap and rotor
I'd start by checking your engine grounds and TPS. Definitely give it a tune-up if it hasn't had one yet.

mars13
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Car: 1990 240sx

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ok will do also where is the ground wire usually located ?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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There's a few. The most commonly bad one is on the driver's side going from the head to the firewall, above the exhaust. It tends to break the most due to the extreme temperature swings it experiences.

sunhawk
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Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se unmodified well maintained garaged

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what is a good muffler that looks like the s14 oem, doesn't sound like a pep boys boy racer special, and has better performance.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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BRM always has solid reviews. It's a bit louder than stock though.

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Toxsyl
Posts: 54
Joined: Thu May 24, 2012 9:20 pm
Car: 98 Nissan S14 Kouki 240SX SE 5-Speed BLK
Soon to be RB25DET swapped.
Location: Florida

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I have some questions:
What is a great place to get OEM JDM Bumpers, Spoilers, Side Skirts, etc for my Kouki?

Is there a difference between the automatic and manual rear ends on the Z32? I mean gear ratio. IE BMW has their automatic rear ends set to a lower gear ratio for more torque at the wheels.

If I do a rear end swap like j30 or Z32 will I need to redo my rear brakes? IE I need to use Z32 rear brakes and trailing arm magic?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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1. Japan... but seriously I'd check with some of our vendors. I've never bought any JDM anything, so I can't really give you a better answer.
2. AFAIK, the only difference in rear ends is between turbo and NA.
3. No. You might need new rear axles, but that would be it. I sourced my rear end from a 180sx, specifically because the axle pattern was the same (6 bolt as opposed to 5 bolt). The spline is the same, so it will go through the rear knuckle just fine.

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
Location: Orlando, Fl

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You would have to switch hubs and axles if you went with the rear end from a turbo z32. The R230 rear end from the z32 is bigger than the q45 or j30's R200 case, so modification is necessary. J30 or Q45 is your best bet, but the q45 would require different axles and hubs from either the turbo z32 or the q45. Confusing, i know.

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Toxsyl
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Car: 98 Nissan S14 Kouki 240SX SE 5-Speed BLK
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Apparently the Non Turbo Z32 is the same gear ratio as the stock rear end. Both are 4.083 apparently.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yup.

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speedeast
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The interesting thing about using a Q45 differential, is that you need the left side axle from the z32tt for the left side and the left side axle from the q45 for the right side. Hubs from the z32tt work best as you don't have that stupid drum e-brake.

mars13
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Car: 1990 240sx

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i got a quick question im wondering what kind of differential i have when i jack up the back and hit the gas both tires spin but on neutral when i spin one tire with my hand the other one does nothing

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Toxsyl
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Car: 98 Nissan S14 Kouki 240SX SE 5-Speed BLK
Soon to be RB25DET swapped.
Location: Florida

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Is 240sx suspension compatible with a NAz32 rear end?

@Mars13, sounds like an open differential.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mars13 wrote:i got a quick question im wondering what kind of differential i have when i jack up the back and hit the gas both tires spin but on neutral when i spin one tire with my hand the other one does nothing
Mine will sometimes do nothing, sometimes it will spin slower. Tough call, I haven't spun an open differential in forever.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Toxsyl wrote:Is 240sx suspension compatible with a NAz32 rear end?
You mean the rear diff? Yeah, it should bolt right in to the subframe.

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Toxsyl
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Car: 98 Nissan S14 Kouki 240SX SE 5-Speed BLK
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So it is fine to buy a new set of s14 240sx coil overs, and they will bolt to a Z32 Rear Diff.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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...coilovers don't bolt to the diff.

mars13
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when i peel out it only leaves one line, the right one, so im pretty sure its not lsd would u recommend welding it? cuz im kinda on a budget

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Toxsyl
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Car: 98 Nissan S14 Kouki 240SX SE 5-Speed BLK
Soon to be RB25DET swapped.
Location: Florida

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:...coilovers don't bolt to the diff.
Worded that wrong. So it's fine to buy a coil over kit for a 240sx and a z32 rear diff wont have any effect to my current suspension.

I'm trying to make sure so I don't mess up, and end up having to buy a completely different suspension.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah as long as you have the same knuckles, control arms, etc, you're fine.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mars13 wrote:when i peel out it only leaves one line, the right one, so im pretty sure its not lsd would u recommend welding it? cuz im kinda on a budget
I don't recommend anyone welds their diff on anything they intend on driving on the street.

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Toxsyl
Posts: 54
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Car: 98 Nissan S14 Kouki 240SX SE 5-Speed BLK
Soon to be RB25DET swapped.
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mars13 wrote:when i peel out it only leaves one line, the right one, so im pretty sure its not lsd would u recommend welding it? cuz im kinda on a budget
You would make your diff a no slip diff, and you will hop around turns making the car only practical on a drag strip.

Apex Eight
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Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:08 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX

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I have an '89 240SX with a single cam KA. Stock.

Even though the CEL is not illuminated on the gauge cluster, is it possible there are codes on the ECU that I could retrieve?

And when I press on my brake pedal with a lot of force, I can hear a faint hissing noise. Could this be the brake booster check valve?

Also, when I pump my brakes rapidly with a lot of force, my idle will drop a coupe hundred RPMs. What could cause this?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Apex Eight wrote:I have an '89 240SX with a single cam KA. Stock.

Even though the CEL is not illuminated on the gauge cluster, is it possible there are codes on the ECU that I could retrieve?

And when I press on my brake pedal with a lot of force, I can hear a faint hissing noise. Could this be the brake booster check valve?

Also, when I pump my brakes rapidly with a lot of force, my idle will drop a coupe hundred RPMs. What could cause this?
CEL- its possible, but I've only seen it on OBDII cars. They are usually "pending trouble codes".

The hissing is probably a vacuum leak somewhere. The check valve typically doesn't make noise, especially hissing. It may "click" open but its really quiet.

Pumping the brakes rapidly consumes a lot of vacuum from the engine. Couple that with a possible vacuum leak as mentioned earlier and an added strain on the alternator (brake lights), and you could get what you are seeing.

TunerPharm
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:26 pm
Car: Nissan Silvia S14 SR20DET

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Quick question guys. Answers are much appreciated. Where could I find engine parts for a pulsar gtir sr20det or can I just use parts off of a 240sx sr20det?

Apex Eight
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Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:08 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Apex Eight wrote:I have an '89 240SX with a single cam KA. Stock.

Even though the CEL is not illuminated on the gauge cluster, is it possible there are codes on the ECU that I could retrieve?

And when I press on my brake pedal with a lot of force, I can hear a faint hissing noise. Could this be the brake booster check valve?

Also, when I pump my brakes rapidly with a lot of force, my idle will drop a coupe hundred RPMs. What could cause this?
CEL- its possible, but I've only seen it on OBDII cars. They are usually "pending trouble codes".

The hissing is probably a vacuum leak somewhere. The check valve typically doesn't make noise, especially hissing. It may "click" open but its really quiet.

Pumping the brakes rapidly consumes a lot of vacuum from the engine. Couple that with a possible vacuum leak as mentioned earlier and an added strain on the alternator (brake lights), and you could get what you are seeing.
I am going to try to check for codes.

Is there a vacuum diagram that shows where all of the vacuum lines on a single cam KA are supposed to go?

Also, what are electrical shorts and bad grounds and how do I check for them? I really don't know anything about automotive wiring and electronics

Apex Eight
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Joined: Tue Jul 17, 2012 11:08 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX

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Bump?


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