The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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TroubleBound
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Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:45 am
Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
Location: Richmond VA

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Wahhh i think my head gasket is blown or my head is cracked, just want some verificatiion before i start parting my sad lil shell out and try to finish my sr project. It started overheating last week, real quick like. Smoke rollin out the engine and such. I put coolant in it and let it cool down, drove it home. It was fine for a few days i thought i was lucky and just missing some coolant. Couple days later it did it again. So i bought a water pump and thermostat without diagnosing, like a fool, and threw them in. Before i went to start the car and bleed the cooling system, i decide to check the oil. Yay sludgy chocolate milk. All up under the oil filler cap and everything. It never had any white smoke from the exhaust, but perhaps because it was burning in the bay. I pulled the plugs and saw whitish brown tips. Any reason why it would have all of these symptoms and not be a blown head gasket or cracked head, or am i s.o.l? Preciate


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
Location: Merrimack, NH

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TunerPharm wrote:Heys guys I need a little help before I go and make the wrong decision. I currently have a s14 silvia with sr20DE with a ebay turbo kit installed. I want to swap that motor out for a sr20DET. Now I was told by a mechanic/friend that I should get the s13 sr20det, due to it being able to be modded more? And I wouldn't have to worry about the VCT hich is currently sounding like a marble in the can due to the tensioner.

Anyway my question to you guys is, aside from the motor what all do I need to complete this swap? The s13 redtop could bolt right up to my s14 transmission? Help and assistance is much appreciated.
It will bolt up to the transmission, but you might require a different wiring harness and engine management depending on what you're running now.

How did you get a silvia without a turbo? How do you like going through drive-Thrus backwards?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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TroubleBound wrote:Wahhh i think my head gasket is blown or my head is cracked, just want some verificatiion before i start parting my sad lil shell out and try to finish my sr project. It started overheating last week, real quick like. Smoke rollin out the engine and such. I put coolant in it and let it cool down, drove it home. It was fine for a few days i thought i was lucky and just missing some coolant. Couple days later it did it again. So i bought a water pump and thermostat without diagnosing, like a fool, and threw them in. Before i went to start the car and bleed the cooling system, i decide to check the oil. Yay sludgy chocolate milk. All up under the oil filler cap and everything. It never had any white smoke from the exhaust, but perhaps because it was burning in the bay. I pulled the plugs and saw whitish brown tips. Any reason why it would have all of these symptoms and not be a blown head gasket or cracked head, or am i s.o.l? Preciate

Well if you drove it with that much coolant in the oil, you very well could have done damage to the bearings and whatnot inside the engine.
It may be possible your timing chain wore through a wall of a water jacket or something and initiated the leak. Either way, you're going to have to do a lot of digging.

TunerPharm
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:26 pm
Car: Nissan Silvia S14 SR20DET

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:It will bolt up to the transmission, but you might require a different wiring harness and engine management depending on what you're running now.

How did you get a silvia without a turbo? How do you like going through drive-Thrus backwards?


Unfortunate story Lol but I have it nonetheless. And funny thing is I don't even do the drive Thrus unless someone is riding with me. If not im parking and heading inside lol. But do you think I should the s13 redtop or s14 blacktop
Last edited by TunerPharm on Tue Sep 04, 2012 4:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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TroubleBound
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Car: 1992 240SX Hatch
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Well if you drove it with that much coolant in the oil, you very well could have done damage to the bearings and whatnot inside the engine.
It may be possible your timing chain wore through a wall of a water jacket or something and initiated the leak. Either way, you're going to have to do a lot of digging.
So in addition to the head gasket or cylinder head, i've also done damage to the deep engine internals? Sounds like it will be easier and cheaper for me to part it out or sell it as is than try to fix it. I paid 1200 for it and drove it everyday for over 3 years so i'd hate to drop more on repairs than i did for the car.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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TunerPharm wrote:
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:It will bolt up to the transmission, but you might require a different wiring harness and engine management depending on what you're running now.

How did you get a silvia without a turbo? How do you like going through drive-Thrus backwards?


Unfortunate story Lol but I have it nonetheless. And funny thing is I don't even do the drive Thrus unless someone is riding with me. If not im parking and heading inside lol. But do you think I should the s13 redtop or s14 blacktop
If you are doing it yourself, then it sounds like you're going to have to do research on your unique situation. I don't know what harness your vehicle has, but I'd go with whatever is most compatible with that. If you are paying someone else (or a shop to do it) ask them what they'd prefer.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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TroubleBound wrote:
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Well if you drove it with that much coolant in the oil, you very well could have done damage to the bearings and whatnot inside the engine.
It may be possible your timing chain wore through a wall of a water jacket or something and initiated the leak. Either way, you're going to have to do a lot of digging.
So in addition to the head gasket or cylinder head, i've also done damage to the deep engine internals? Sounds like it will be easier and cheaper for me to part it out or sell it as is than try to fix it. I paid 1200 for it and drove it everyday for over 3 years so i'd hate to drop more on repairs than i did for the car.
Yeah it depends on how much you drove it, but yes, you could definitely have effed up a lot of stuff. Might be best to just swap in a fresh KA.

TunerPharm
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Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:26 pm
Car: Nissan Silvia S14 SR20DET

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:If you are doing it yourself, then it sounds like you're going to have to do research on your unique situation. I don't know what harness your vehicle has, but I'd go with whatever is most compatible with that. If you are paying someone else (or a shop to do it) ask them what they'd prefer.
I'm willing to buy a wire harness. I wanna do everything correct its just I was curious what would determine which motor to pick. S13 more likely to have more mileage but the s14 has the VCT

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speedeast
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Car: 1990 240sx VH45 FB & 1993 300zx
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If it were mine, I'd swing the S14 Blacktop.

mechanicalmoron
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WHY is there a coolant line through the TB? Threw me curve, I thought it was a vaccum line when I was taking it off...

Also, whoever decided to make it so that you must remove the TB to change the TPS should be summarially shot.... Seriously, could have JUST made an extra half inch clearance....

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PapaSmurf2k3
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ok that's just a rant :p

mechanicalmoron
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:ok that's just a rant :p
well.... that too, but sort of a question.

I mean, if I looped the line would it matter? Does it actually need to be there, or did they just feel like it?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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You can loop it. Coolant passing through the throttle body is not integral to the engine's operation.

TunerPharm
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Hey another question guys, when purchasing a Apexi Power Fc they ask for the engine model I assume. How do I determine whether mine is amc. Or bmc ?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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amc? bmc? wtf?

mechanicalmoron
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I can't see correctly, but, is the fuel rail bolted to one of the intake manifold studs at the back? Good god, why? I spent 20 minutes wiggling the thing, wondering how that last isolator could be stuck THAT hard.... and then just pushed it back in, when I was obviously not going to succeed. I hope that I didn't bend it, or damage an isolator, so much as to have a problem.

But, I think I found what I needed. Am I correct that when an injector is closed, it should make NO noise? Because my front one was making a very faint hissing gurgling noise.... so I think that's my problem. O-ring this weekend.

Is there any real reason that they decided to run coolant through the tb, though? the best I could come up with was so that in cold weather it wouldn't shrink more than the butterfly and jam it....

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PapaSmurf2k3
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yeah injectors shouldn't leak/hiss/bubble/whatever when they are closed
AFAIK, the coolant through the throttle body was to help the intake charge warm up in cold weather and help with combustion/emissions. Who knows though. It's a design that still carries on today.

TunerPharm
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Nevermind.....

sunhawk
Posts: 27
Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2012 8:58 pm
Car: 1995 nissan 240sx se unmodified well maintained garaged

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i have a 1995 240sx se red black leather sunroof 5 speed and that little red blink light that says security and makes the horn honk every time a squirrel farts in it's direction. my question is, should this car have a remote fob? i bought it from carmax back in 2005 and it just had two nissan keys on a plain keyring.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Good question. I've never seen a fob for a '95 240. If it is an aftermarket alarm, it probably has a separate horn under the hood somewhere that you could just disconnect to stop it from beeping.

sunhawk
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i think the alarm is a nissan part, it arms and disarms with the doors locking and unlocking and is in the center console stack next to the four ways hazard light button. i guess i could just go ask the parts counter guy at my local nissan dealership. but then again it is like asking for parts for a model t at this point.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah, if he answers you with "what the heck is a 240sx?", run.

speakeasy
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Car: 1991 240sx Coupe RB20DET

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So, how do I go about fixing the fuel door/trunk cable release? From what I gathered from some searches, you need to install a nut, which I bought, but I can't figure out where it's supposed to go or how it would help...

Also, any idea where the horn is located? I wanna verify that the horn itself is missing/broken before I spend the $20 for a new one. When I push the horn button, I hear a *click* coming from somewhere which I figure is a relay, but no honk.

danshaz82
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trying to replace the inner cv boots on the rear axles and i just cant figure out how the heck im supposed to get them off.
this is where im at. any suggestions?
Image

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PapaSmurf2k3
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speakeasy wrote:So, how do I go about fixing the fuel door/trunk cable release? From what I gathered from some searches, you need to install a nut, which I bought, but I can't figure out where it's supposed to go or how it would help...

Also, any idea where the horn is located? I wanna verify that the horn itself is missing/broken before I spend the $20 for a new one. When I push the horn button, I hear a *click* coming from somewhere which I figure is a relay, but no honk.
I've never actually messed with that lever, but there might be some sort of adjustment procedure outlined in the FSM.

The horn should be located up front, bolted to the radiator support (in front of the radiator)

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PapaSmurf2k3
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danshaz82 wrote:trying to replace the inner cv boots on the rear axles and i just cant figure out how the heck im supposed to get them off.
this is where im at. any suggestions?
Image
Did you pull the axle nut off? They might just slide off the end after you remove the hub.

danshaz82
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thats probably the best option. cause i read in the fsm that you need to pound off that end cap on the joint housing. and judging by how things have been going my build, thats gonna be the farthest thing from easy haha. ill give that a try tomorrow and see what happens.

speakeasy
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Car: 1991 240sx Coupe RB20DET

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
speakeasy wrote:So, how do I go about fixing the fuel door/trunk cable release? From what I gathered from some searches, you need to install a nut, which I bought, but I can't figure out where it's supposed to go or how it would help...

Also, any idea where the horn is located? I wanna verify that the horn itself is missing/broken before I spend the $20 for a new one. When I push the horn button, I hear a *click* coming from somewhere which I figure is a relay, but no honk.
I've never actually messed with that lever, but there might be some sort of adjustment procedure outlined in the FSM.

The horn should be located up front, bolted to the radiator support (in front of the radiator)
Hmmm, I'll take a look again, but the first time I checked all I could find were some diagrams that weren't of much help.

As for the horn, as I suspected it's been removed. Oh well. Thanks pops.

mars13
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Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 12:59 pm
Car: 1990 240sx

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hey first post, im having bogging troubles and my cel came on i ran the ecu codes it was a 43 and a 32 i cleaned the egr and the 32 dissapeared then i cleaned my throttle body and it was also gone but the bogging never stopped then 2 days later both codes came up again can anyone help? also its a ka single cam

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Welcome to NICO!

Is the bogging happening under specific throttle conditions, or at certain rpm? How bad is it? When was the last time the vehicle had a good tune-up?

You could try giving your engine the ol seafoam treatment.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to ... t-way.html


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