Taking the 240 to a whole new level of sacrilege...

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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killernoodle
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Car: My daily: 2005 Cadillac CTS-V - pretty much stock
Brother's S13 project car: SR20det, wilwoods, suspension, q45 diff/axles, 315s out back
Location: Charlotte NC

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Another quick question: 300zx TT rear subframe and S13 rear subframe... swappable?

300zx:

S13:

They look remarkably similar... I might be able to fabricate it into place, weld it solid to the frame, etc. I know its probably wider than stock, but we plan on fender flares and wide tires anyways so thats no biggie... I'm just curious if anyone has tried it before? It would solve both my 5 lug and my power delivery problems in one fell swoop if it is truly possible.

EDIT: Does anyone know the track width of the 300zx?
Modified by killernoodle at 12:39 PM 4/7/2009


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glitched
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This is also on my watched topic list

crash n burn
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z32 sub frame is physically wider; but all of the control arms are the same, z32 knuckles have different lower shock mounts.

TT rear end is higher gearing meant for highway the pinion is about 2 1/2 inches longer on the nose. i'd say build up the s13 rear end with a tomei 1.5 if you're going to drag this car. shorter gearing will get you down the 1/4 with a quickness.

and regards to what transmission you're running? you COULD make a t-5 work, but the shifter will be all the way up under your din pockets. just something to think about, because i know a t-5 will bolts right up to that block.

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killernoodle
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Car: My daily: 2005 Cadillac CTS-V - pretty much stock
Brother's S13 project car: SR20det, wilwoods, suspension, q45 diff/axles, 315s out back
Location: Charlotte NC

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crash n’ burn wrote:z32 sub frame is physically wider; but all of the control arms are the same, z32 knuckles have different lower shock mounts.

TT rear end is higher gearing meant for highway the pinion is about 2 1/2 inches longer on the nose. i'd say build up the s13 rear end with a tomei 1.5 if you're going to drag this car. shorter gearing will get you down the 1/4 with a quickness.

and regards to what transmission you're running? you COULD make a t-5 work, but the shifter will be all the way up under your din pockets. just something to think about, because i know a t-5 will bolts right up to that block.
Physically wider doesn't bother me, I'm probably going to weld the subframe to the chassis anyways. What about the Q45 subframe? Is it about the same? One just got into the local pull a part today, thats why I'm asking.

I'm ordering a TR-3650 transmission out of an 05-08 mustang GT with 10 miles on it today. I don't want a T5 because they're weak sauce and will probably break instantly with this motor in it. A T5 is rated for 300ft lbs whereas a 3650 is rated for 360 ft lbs and can take a whole lot more with a 26 spline input shaft and some other tweaks.

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Shift_Alabama
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Did you consider a TKO? That would probably have been your best bet for reliability. The shift forks in the 3650s are garbage. Make sure you have a short throw on there if you're gonna drive it hard. I put a 3650 in my '96 GT and it wasn't worth the 600 bucks I spent on it...

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Ghast
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DriftBoy07 wrote:Something new & different, NICOs been begging for a build like this for some time now..
If this thread had a DvD cover, this quote would be on the front.

Haha it sounds like that kinda quote.

Or something the narrator would say during a really entense movie preview hahaha.

Good times,

Ghasty

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COLD DARK NORTH
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I think that is just swell. LOL

Seriously though, Ford did some amazing design work with that motor. You're going to have lots of fun when you're done.

Just get some really good tires if you want to go in a straight-ish line at all. I have that problem with my Stang.

keep'er going!

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OutToWinPAHC
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People have modded the Z32 subframes to work. jdmwill knows a shop who offers the service. But you seem handy where you can do it yourself.

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Ken Park
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The lower end internals for that modular v8 look great.

l2edken
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watching this!

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kouki munster
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The eaiest thing to do would be to to snag a diff out of a 90-96 Q45.(3.54 ratio) It is a rv200 diff so it will bolt into the s13 sub frame, but the Q diff has the same stronger axle stubs as the rv230 found in the tt z32. Here is a link with some more info on swaping in the Q diff:

http://www.ka24development.com/vlsd.html

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killernoodle
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Brother's S13 project car: SR20det, wilwoods, suspension, q45 diff/axles, 315s out back
Location: Charlotte NC

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The TKO is in the pipeline, cant afford the $2300 price tag right now though. We aren't going to be power shifting it like idiots, so the only thing that is likely to break is the input shaft. Apparently, once the trans is in gear its pretty much bullet proof minus the 10 spline input. A 26 spline shaft is about $380. Rebuilding with carbon synchros and tougher shift forks only make it less likely to break.

From what I've read, people that break these transmissions do so on the drag strip launching on slicks. I don't think we have any plans of doing that just yet.

s14_sport
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excellent stuff!

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killernoodle
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Car: My daily: 2005 Cadillac CTS-V - pretty much stock
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Location: Charlotte NC

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Before:



After:



Giggity!

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killernoodle
Posts: 206
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Car: My daily: 2005 Cadillac CTS-V - pretty much stock
Brother's S13 project car: SR20det, wilwoods, suspension, q45 diff/axles, 315s out back
Location: Charlotte NC

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YAYAYA

Crash cage from SW is ordered, 10 point through the dash version, ERW steel (DOM is $150 more and not really any safer...)

Also doing final assembly on the heads tonight hopefully. I'm cleaning out any remaining carbon/oil buildup and doing the final seating of the valves. I got some valve springs out of the terminator to replace the weak ones from the mark viii, so 7000 rpms should now be possible.

Also, I found my memory card so further pics will be taken with an actual camera instead of my crappy phone

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addisonblck
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this thread is full of win.....

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Koshin
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subscribed....win win win win win

those valves were nasty...

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Shift_Alabama
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killernoodle wrote:The TKO is in the pipeline, cant afford the $2300 price tag right now though. We aren't going to be power shifting it like idiots, so the only thing that is likely to break is the input shaft. Apparently, once the trans is in gear its pretty much bullet proof minus the 10 spline input. A 26 spline shaft is about $380. Rebuilding with carbon synchros and tougher shift forks only make it less likely to break.

From what I've read, people that break these transmissions do so on the drag strip launching on slicks. I don't think we have any plans of doing that just yet.
Yeah my 3650 was already kinda limping when I put it in. It came out of a '01 Cobra that had been driven like they stole it. After a few hard launches my trans wouldn't take 2nd hardly at all. My friend's got a T-5 with 170,xxx miles on it with a short throw and he's not had a problem out of if yet so go figure...

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killernoodle
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Joined: Sat Mar 21, 2009 1:08 pm
Car: My daily: 2005 Cadillac CTS-V - pretty much stock
Brother's S13 project car: SR20det, wilwoods, suspension, q45 diff/axles, 315s out back
Location: Charlotte NC

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The cage came in and we won the auction for the transmission. I test fit the cage today and it looks pretty good.



Windshield removal, PITA!!!!

One of the workbenches and the fuel

Kinda messy right now.

Yeahhhhhh

Tube fitment is pretty good, I'll only need to trim a couple of pieces, I won't have to notch much of anything hopefully.

I'm probably not going to use the dash bar as is, the existing dash bar is pretty beefy and will be much beefier when I weld and gusset it in place. I'll re-purpose the dash bar as some kind of diagonal brace somewhere.

We have also been working on re-assembling the heads, there are a lot of parts in a 32 valve engine


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supreamS14
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I would usually someone that used any ford parts in our beloved Nissan's, but I'm in a great mood tonight so I actually feel like commending you and wish you the best of luck in this endeavor! I would use all new fuel injectors seeing those intake valves .

j-z
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i cant wait to see this thing moving under its own power!!!

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r34 gtr
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This car is going to rape apes. That's one hell of an engine you've got.

SR24DET
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Wow this is a sick build. I love seeing people do there own work.

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ca18detgabby
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looks like lots of awesomeness.........

think that I might wait on welding anything in just yet as your transmission hasnt been mounted yet.

there really enough room for a HX50? what are you doing for manifolds? diddnt hardly look like there was enough room for even a radiator.

gl on the build.

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killernoodle
Posts: 206
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Car: My daily: 2005 Cadillac CTS-V - pretty much stock
Brother's S13 project car: SR20det, wilwoods, suspension, q45 diff/axles, 315s out back
Location: Charlotte NC

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The transmission and random engine parts are on their way, we should finally be able to start reassembling the motor in the next week.

I already welded the main hoop into the car, the rest will go in tonight and probably this weekend some time. The cage is fitting great so far and should look really nice when we're done.

Also, my brother found a nice alternative to a stock sail window to replace the busted one. It'll be all kinds of nascar redneck awesomeness, but for now its a secret

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IanS
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I heart this build.

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sbird1
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Subscribed.

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Bumnah
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The sub frame is not easily swappable. I don't know the specifics of what needs to done, and what clearance issues there are. I'd def. use the 300zx diff with those 6 bolt axles in your application. They are more beefy than the non turbo version, and the s13 axles. You've already got the proper hubs for the axles as well (looking at your sub frame picture).

The input flange maybe need some working. Again I don't remember exactly what all the issues are.

Here's a link with the info: http://www.club240.com/forums/...28500

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killernoodle
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Car: My daily: 2005 Cadillac CTS-V - pretty much stock
Brother's S13 project car: SR20det, wilwoods, suspension, q45 diff/axles, 315s out back
Location: Charlotte NC

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Soooooo, transmission came in so here are the pics!



We also built the bottom end. We still need a ton of parts to get this thing going, but engine mounts should get in as soon as I get a oil pan to test fit.



I still have to final torque all the bolts down with my friend's really nice torque wrench, but thats not too important now.

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hvp014
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wow this thread is epic... looks great!!


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