removing plenum update

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Q45tech
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1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl

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All that coolant corrosion if from not changing coolant and hoses at short enough intervals. Coolant turns acidic after using up all alkalinility [additives] reacts with oxygen between aluminum and hose amd erodoes and pits the aluminun.

Thanks for providing Pictorial evidence of machine abuse from incompetent operators/owners.

http://www.lytron.jp/support/corrosion_in_cs.htm

http://www.arrowheadradiator.c...s.htm


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unknown007
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Welcome I guess?

If anybody got's that part email me price shipped thanks.

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Q451990
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Wow... over 12 hours and no post in this thread! Are you taking a day off for your hands to heal?

Speaking of beating your hands all to crap doing a plenum job, I started using latex gloves a few years ago when working on these types of things. It makes a HUGE difference in the number of cuts and cleanup time after working on the car.

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they are pretty cheap there.

Heath

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unknown007
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Q451990 wrote:Wow... over 12 hours and no post in this thread! Are you taking a day off for your hands to heal?

Speaking of beating your hands all to crap doing a plenum job, I started using latex gloves a few years ago when working on these types of things. It makes a HUGE difference in the number of cuts and cleanup time after working on the car.

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they are pretty cheap there.

Heath
Sorry it started raining today. So i just decided to pull off the rail that hooks up the fuel lines,since i had some hose that were cut off still stuck on it.Started to clean that and made it all purrrtttyyyy. Got the IAC cut hose off too.I think there's one more hose i forgot. Oh well i called IOS and asked about pricing.But i need your guys help on identifying the hoses.Will take pictures tonight or tomorrow.Thanks.Hope tomorrow doesn't rain.I was suppose to take my driving test but my car gave up on me.My cousin bailed on me with some B.S. about his insurance not being able to cover me.I was like WTF? He said if i crash this and that i'm like i've driven you car and why would i go to crash?Dunno well canceled the appointment.Guess the test is meant to be done with my car.

Easier for me.I was double thinking about the water pump still fighting weather i wanna take it off or not. Since i have to jack up the car and to be honest i hate removing the black cover.While I'm there I'm gonna drain the Coolant from the block if i do it.

I don't know if i'm gonna be able to do a mechanical coolant flush unless it's a good price?

Well to close this post all i have to say is i enjoy working on the car. Also is annoying when the clamps and hoses don't come off.Still looking for that one part i need.Also any idea how to remove the EGR valve.It's like glued on there or something it won't even tickle thanks.

maxnix
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Need to dunk the plenum and lower runners in a chemical bath.

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Q451990
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Talk to Bill at IOS and have him pull my invoice from September for a list of hoses... you need all of them. There is one PCV hose on the right side that runs right below the oil fill port that you need to order twice. The corresponding hose on the other side has been superceded in their system with the 94-96 version, but it's too short. So buy the right side one twice and cut it to the size needed. Bill will probably remember the whole thing once you refresh his memory.

Heath

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unknown007
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Woah slow down cowboy!!! What was your price paid for all those?

maxnix
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unknown007 wrote:Woah slow down cowboy!!! What was your price paid for all those?
The point is, don't waste your time putting back together until you can afford to come out with new components. Imported Luxury V8 Sedan ownership and all that.

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unknown007
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I will try talking my parents into buying them all.$300 sounds the price of the mechanic and im saving them that so we'll see.I have to put it back it's the only way i can get to school my dad can't take my forever.He's only doing it because im fixing the car.

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Raxephon
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unknown007 wrote:....... any idea how to remove the EGR valve.It's like glued on there or something it won't even tickle thanks.
Torch and 2 wrench's or pb blaster and 2 wrench's.

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unknown007
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anlasak wrote:
Torch and 2 wrench's or pb blaster and 2 wrench's.
It's not gonna mess it up torching it?I can maybe broadcast tomorrow if it doesn't rain will update with that.But what size of wrenches i might need to buy them.

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goody90q45
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From what I see in this pic the EGR valve is floating on the end of the exhaust pipe feeding it and you're probably having a hard time getting any real torque on the large nut.

Try this: The lower runners are removed so prop the plenum back in position with a couple of 2 x 4's so you can put the 2 EGR bolts back in place. Get the solenoids out of the way before you start so nothing gets broken when the nut breaks. You may have to have someone hold down the plenum while you wrench the nut in the opposite direction (righty tighty, lefty loosey). A 10" crescent wrench has always worked for me. Maybe add a 12" long pipe as a breaker bar.


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unknown007
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Should i use a plumber wrench?

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goody90q45
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Since you probably don't have a 31mm box wrench (I don't either) a 10" crescent fits well and is my second choice. There won't be much room to fit a large pipe wrench so smaller is better. Be prepared for a pipe wrench to chew up the nut a bit. No crescent wrench in your tool box?

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unknown007
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Yeah my dad has a big crescent wrench so use that then?

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goody90q45
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Yes. Use a crescent wrench if you have the right one. Anything larger than a 10" (stamped on the body) will probably be too big. Avoid using a pipe wrench.

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unknown007
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Okay will check on the size tomorrow.Well hope it comes off will update with that and then seal my valve cover and whooo PARTY!!!

Can't wait to get the car running like really i miss the rumble.

Modified by unknown007 at 5:57 AM 1/22/2009
Modified by unknown007 at 5:57 AM 1/22/2009

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unknown007
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It's raining again if i get in the mood to go outside i'll take pics of what i do.

maxnix
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goody94q45 wrote:From what I see in this pic the EGR valve is floating on the end of the exhaust pipe feeding it and you're probably having a hard time getting any real torque on the large nut.
Yeah, that nut is best broken before you start removing the plenum.

Oh well, live and learn!

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unknown007
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Yup.Wasn't gonna do my valve cove rin the first place until i saw the leak.

mniceguy18
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i did my plenom and lost the metal rings that hold the seals even i thought the new ones cames with it so i trashed them i had to glue them in place it sucked

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unknown007 wrote:Yup.Wasn't gonna do my valve cove rin the first place until i saw the leak.


Note in the 1995 FSM on EM-20 omits the driver's side rear valve cover nut in the Step 2 diagram. It should be labeled 13 and 31.

In all the years here and previous boards, I find it extremely strange that no one has ever mentioned replacing the rubber lined washers immediately below these nuts as they a very deformed and all elasticity is gone, which has to affect the final torque value and probably gasket life. Comparing old part to new is revelatory.

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Raxephon
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mniceguy18 wrote:i did my plenom and lost the metal rings that hold the seals even i thought the new ones cames with it so i trashed them i had to glue them in place it sucked
How did you manage to align them correctly and what did you use to "glue" them in place?

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unknown007
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I'll have to find a way to lie them up too. Well havent done anything since it was suppose to rain today.Will check in maybe tomorrow. Don't point at me.

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Q451990
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Maxnix wrote:In all the years here and previous boards, I find it extremely strange that no one has ever mentioned replacing the rubber lined washers immediately below these nuts as they a very deformed and all elasticity is gone, which has to affect the final torque value and probably gasket life. Comparing old part to new is revelatory
Are you referring to the rubber washers under the rocker cover? I have replaced them in the past... Byron at T3 puts RTV on them before the reseal.
unknown007 wrote:I'll have to find a way to lie them up too.
If you haven't tossed the metal rings, then you just need new seals... the rings serve to align everything.

Heath

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Q451990 wrote:Are you referring to the rubber washers under the rocker cover? I have replaced them in the past... Byron at T3 puts RTV on them before the reseal.

Heath
No, the ones between the nut and the rocker cover that have a galvanized washer facing the nut, rubber facing the cover.

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Q451990
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maxnix wrote:No, the ones between the nut and the rocker cover that have a galvanized washer facing the nut, rubber facing the cover.
Oh, OK. That would apply to the 94+ only... 90-93 used bolts instead. I guess the changeover happened with the swap from RTV to rubber gaskets.

Heath

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Q451990 wrote:
Oh, OK. That would apply to the 94+ only... 90-93 used bolts instead. I guess the changeover happened with the swap from RTV to rubber gaskets.

Heath
I thought they might be different. Perhaps why no one has mentioned them. Certainly Dennis would if he had personal experience with them.

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unknown007
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Heath i have everything still.I cleaned the inside of my plenum.One whole can of carburetor cleaner.Came out some what cleaner then before.I also cleaned the runners but I'm just gonna sand blast the plenum and exterior runners.Will post pics tomorrow too lazy right now.Have to order my hoses tomorrow.

edit:I also got the valve cover off YAY!!!Got the EGR off.Now problem it took forever to slip and wiggle out.Now since i can't rub the RTV when putting in any ideas how i can do it?

One i know is let the cover float and i put the RTV around then just push?

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Q451990
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You just have to be careful... I seem to remember removing the EGR tube to make it easier when I did it. Not sure if Byron did that at T3?

Don't forget to get new "half moons" that fit into the heads.

Heath


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