Sorry it started raining today. So i just decided to pull off the rail that hooks up the fuel lines,since i had some hose that were cut off still stuck on it.Started to clean that and made it all purrrtttyyyy. Got the IAC cut hose off too.I think there's one more hose i forgot. Oh well i called IOS and asked about pricing.But i need your guys help on identifying the hoses.Will take pictures tonight or tomorrow.Thanks.Hope tomorrow doesn't rain.I was suppose to take my driving test but my car gave up on me.My cousin bailed on me with some B.S. about his insurance not being able to cover me.I was like WTF? He said if i crash this and that i'm like i've driven you car and why would i go to crash?Dunno well canceled the appointment.Guess the test is meant to be done with my car.Q451990 wrote:Wow... over 12 hours and no post in this thread! Are you taking a day off for your hands to heal?
Speaking of beating your hands all to crap doing a plenum job, I started using latex gloves a few years ago when working on these types of things. It makes a HUGE difference in the number of cuts and cleanup time after working on the car.
If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they are pretty cheap there.
Heath
The point is, don't waste your time putting back together until you can afford to come out with new components. Imported Luxury V8 Sedan ownership and all that.unknown007 wrote:Woah slow down cowboy!!! What was your price paid for all those?
Torch and 2 wrench's or pb blaster and 2 wrench's.unknown007 wrote:....... any idea how to remove the EGR valve.It's like glued on there or something it won't even tickle thanks.
It's not gonna mess it up torching it?I can maybe broadcast tomorrow if it doesn't rain will update with that.But what size of wrenches i might need to buy them.anlasak wrote:
Torch and 2 wrench's or pb blaster and 2 wrench's.
Yeah, that nut is best broken before you start removing the plenum.goody94q45 wrote:From what I see in this pic the EGR valve is floating on the end of the exhaust pipe feeding it and you're probably having a hard time getting any real torque on the large nut.
unknown007 wrote:Yup.Wasn't gonna do my valve cove rin the first place until i saw the leak.
How did you manage to align them correctly and what did you use to "glue" them in place?mniceguy18 wrote:i did my plenom and lost the metal rings that hold the seals even i thought the new ones cames with it so i trashed them i had to glue them in place it sucked
Are you referring to the rubber washers under the rocker cover? I have replaced them in the past... Byron at T3 puts RTV on them before the reseal.Maxnix wrote:In all the years here and previous boards, I find it extremely strange that no one has ever mentioned replacing the rubber lined washers immediately below these nuts as they a very deformed and all elasticity is gone, which has to affect the final torque value and probably gasket life. Comparing old part to new is revelatory
If you haven't tossed the metal rings, then you just need new seals... the rings serve to align everything.unknown007 wrote:I'll have to find a way to lie them up too.
No, the ones between the nut and the rocker cover that have a galvanized washer facing the nut, rubber facing the cover.Q451990 wrote:Are you referring to the rubber washers under the rocker cover? I have replaced them in the past... Byron at T3 puts RTV on them before the reseal.
Heath
Oh, OK. That would apply to the 94+ only... 90-93 used bolts instead. I guess the changeover happened with the swap from RTV to rubber gaskets.maxnix wrote:No, the ones between the nut and the rocker cover that have a galvanized washer facing the nut, rubber facing the cover.
I thought they might be different. Perhaps why no one has mentioned them. Certainly Dennis would if he had personal experience with them.Q451990 wrote:
Oh, OK. That would apply to the 94+ only... 90-93 used bolts instead. I guess the changeover happened with the swap from RTV to rubber gaskets.
Heath