removing plenum update

[Q451990]

There are mechanical flushes... I'm not sure how they work, but this would be a good time to try one.

I don't think I would worry too much about the head gasket, unless something got warped during the overheat. The gasket is metallic (similar material to the EGR valve gasket) and rarely, if ever, fails. A greater concern for me would be a clogged or badly corroded radiator. In fact in this case I would absolutely remove it and flush the heck out of it.

Just be sure to plug the A/T hoses that go into the end tank.

Heath

[qship96]

Pull waterpump and check impeller for erosion, and also the sacrificial anode midpipe....with coolant as bad as yours was, both these parts are bound to be in extremely poor condition.

[maxnix]

Bet the radiator is toast too.

Keep going and don't shortcut anything. Build it back to as new specifications and it will last you for a decade.

[qship96]

Agree, replace the radiator-internal ATF heat exchanger may be soo rusted/eroded that if /when it develops a leak you would get coolant into transmission,destroying it quickly- even a cheapie $99 brand new radiator would be better than reinstalling the current one.

[unknown007]

Radiator seems fine as it has been working.I was thinking of removing water pump to replace the RTV gasket.I should look at what you guys suggest while im there sounds like a plan?

Mike said i should clean the thermostat but can i just replace with a used one?

wheres the impeller or what is it?same for the sacrificial anode midpipe?

A/T hoses where or what part can i find these?

what product should i buy to flush it?I was thinking of flushing it 2-3 times does that sound okay to clear the nastiness?

Shoudl i replace the Y part that connects the hoses?some of the rust ate the tip not away but if u look at the part with the rust it's there.It's just a little dent.

more to come hopefully tomorrow.Im also doing my driver side valve gasket guess i didn't do it right so i have to redo since it has a little leak i found. Just gotta remove the EGR.

Thanks Nico fam.

-Berner

[Infinitiguy19]

The impeller is on the water pump and its what moves the coolant around.

If you have an after market transmission cooler no need to worry about the A/T hoses since there routed to the aftermarket cooler.

Used thermostat is just as bad or possibly worse than your current thermostat.

If you can't replace the Y pipe then at least clean it.

I would do a mechanical flush if you can can or if not do as many standar flushes as you can.

[unknown007]

how's the mechanical flush done?what is used?

I will look into the thermostat and My dad said i should replace the Y.

I haven't got the money to get the aftermarket cooler.I should once i get the job.

[Infinitiguy19]

A dealer or a trusted shop should have a machine to do the coolant flush.

Replace the Y pipe then.

And the aftermarket transmission cooler is supposed to keep the transmission cooler and shifts smother and better, But I will be honest i haven't noticed a difference. But I have to do a lot of work to my car.

[goody90q45]

Mike said i should clean the thermostat but can i just replace with a used one?

There must be another Mike giving you advice. I've been known to take successful shortcuts using Ace Hardware parts but I would never suggest cleaning up a $20 thermostat and reusing it. Are you sure we weren't talking about the PCV valve?

[maxnix]

There must be another Mike giving you advice. I've been known to take successful shortcuts using Ace Hardware parts but I would never suggest cleaning up a $20 thermostat and reusing it. Are you sure we weren't talking about the PCV valve?

Yes! Pay very close attention! Confusion will cost you dearly!

One overlooked component will sabotage all your other good efforts.

[unknown007]

There must be another Mike giving you advice. I've been known to take successful shortcuts using Ace Hardware parts but I would never suggest cleaning up a $20 thermostat and reusing it. Are you sure we weren't talking about the PCV valve?

I don't know i keep confusing part names hahaha. A dub aint much so might as well.Do i get it a nissan/infiniti dealer or joe?

[silver2k2]

Joe is a dealer, Infiniti of Scottsdale. If you want it quickly a local dealer will be faster but more expensive.

My advice is to get it completely torn apart, inventory what you need and place one order to save shipping costs.

[unknown007]

Will do just need to look at the FSM to see what I need to take apart. Im getting annoying with all the black grease and stuff on the FSM hahaha.

[Q451990]

Im getting annoying with all the black grease and stuff on the FSM hahaha.

That's the beauty of the .pdf manuals... print what you need, then toss it when it's done. For the most part what you're dealing with is the same on the 94.

Heath

[sdkhalsa]

Here is a fun suggestion. The entire block holding the thermostat, including the large coolant pipe with the fill cap(that connects to the "Y" junction), including the small connector to the heater line is sealed using Form-a-gasket or something similar. I would pull this block and reseal it. Mine was recently leaking (120K). Also some random advice, There are two 8mm(ID) coolant lines coming in off of the heater hose pipes to the plenum and forward side of the throttle body. Aside from replacing them, I would make sure that you route them properly. 8mm line(fuel line is nice), and aside from your Infinity dealership, can be had at BMW dealerships as the 500 series cars use them. This is better than the 5/16, as the fit is somewhat better.

What I did to clean of the valley under the plenum was to mix dish soap with ammonia and pour it down there, scrub, and vacuum with a wet shop vac. Do this a few times then do the same with fresh water. If you have heavy oils, etc, mineral spirits, removed with paper towels works great.

[unknown007]

Will try that dish soap thing.Gotta get a hold of a vacuum small enough to fit there.About the resealing I was thinking about that too.If i remove that nothing bad will happen right?Then i can sandblast those to maybe and have the real clean.

[Raxephon]

...Gotta get a hold of a vacuum small enough to fit there.

Get a regular shop vac and get the adapter kit they sell for them at wal-mart/lowes/home depot/etc...

Or get a turkey baster .

[unknown007]

Oh yeah turkey blaster hahaha mike told me that.But since I couldn't get a hold of one when i was taking the fluid out i used my vacuum. I was also thinking something that can suck everything out hard like instead of my scrubbing?any idea?well thanks guys i did nothing to update today sorry.Im taking the parts to school tomorrow to sand blast. It's gonna be fun and im gonna remember to watch out for the o ring parts so i dont unlevel them.

[Infinitiguy19]

Use a ton of towels.

[unknown007]

Towels are for losers. Hahahaha I'll see what i come up with.Time to brain storm.

[Raxephon]

I was also thinking something that can suck everything out hard like instead of my scrubbing?any idea?.

Spray with greased lightning, let sit, scrub with brush, spray again, scrub with brush, spray again, let sit , vacuum out.

[unknown007]

So much work hahaha worth it i guess thanks.

[NightRiderQ45]

I commend you for your effort but after looking at your photos, this something that I definitely can't do. I don't have the time for it. What is your completion %-tage?

[unknown007]

Maybe 35% I dunno I'm still checking and cleaning things.Now that i have to do my valve cover again on top of it.

Well ohm'd my injectors again all read about 12.1-12 and one ohm'd 12.4-12.5 the other two bad ones were at like 34 or maybe 3.4 not sure but they were bad.Think the 12.5 one is going bad?

How can i clean them?Im taking them off the rail to clean that too.

[Q451990]

Think the 12.5 one is going bad?

How can i clean them?Im taking them off the rail to clean that too.

I wouldn't think that the 12.5 ohm one is bad... The best way I have found to remove them is using a 10mm (think that's the size) socket as a press on the bottom, and longer hex head screws in the threaded "ears" that hold the injector covers down on the top, with a big vice as a press. Another word of advice... use a rubber hammer to tap the screwdriver into the head of the screws that hold the cover in place before twisting them. They're notorious for stripping out, but it worked all 16 times I tried it. I think the socket I used was a 3/8" drive so that it flared out at the bottom to protect the pintile tip.

Anyhow, make sure you use all new o-rings if you remove the good ones... and for your replacements. Lubricate the o-rings with a smear of motor oil.

The injectors can't really be cleaned out of the rail unless you have an ultrasonic cleaner and test rig. That's a job best left for Deatchwerks, or for a pressurized rail flush after you reassemble. Look out for cracked or missing pintile caps. You will want to replace those (send to Deatschwerks or buy parts from them) before you reinstall the injectors. If you're going with remanufactured injectors, I would seriously consider just sending the entire rail assembly to Deatschwerks and let them install your replacements and clean them all at the same time.

Heath

[unknown007]

My teacher said to just toss the rails in the parts washer.I did followed by the injector metal tops and plenum with most runners the rest oculdn't fit.Then im going to tape up the holes and sand blast it.He said if i leave anything after sandblasting inside it'll mess up my engine and also is hard to clean out form inside.So i guess brake cleaner comes in for the inside.

The injectors I cleaned just took then all out and re ohm'd them then wiped off all the dirt,grease,and carbon with a rag.I got the little thing that looks like a BOV that goes on the rail,pulled it off and tape the end so i can clean the thing and make it look purrrtttyyyy. If not then it'll look ooogggglllyyy.

Anyways that's all I'm doing today so far.Will take pics of how injectors look now when i get home and If i can finish the Plenum today i'll be taking that home to.Wish me the best of luck.One more thing you mean replace all rubber O rings?The ones that go on the end of the rail where the injectors are inserted?

Also on two of them i found a little metal plate under the rubber that goes on the top cap.The rest dont have them any idea?

I think so far so good thanks to you guys.

[Q451990]

One more thing you mean replace all rubber O rings?The ones that go on the end of the rail where the injectors are inserted?

Each injector has two o-rings, top and bottom... some of the o-rings stick in the rail when you remove them, but they actually fit on the injector. Yes, replace all of them... this is critically important, especially the lower one... if it's damaged or fails, fuel will squirt out and rapidly fill the cylinder with fuel causing hydrolocking.

Heath

[unknown007]

Each injector has two o-rings, top and bottom... some of the o-rings stick in the rail when you remove them, but they actually fit on the injector. Yes, replace all of them... this is critically important, especially the lower one... if it's damaged or fails, fuel will squirt out and rapidly fill the cylinder with fuel causing hydrolocking.

Heath

These O-rings?





Where the point finger is but there's two on the injectors is the top on removable?Not sure.

and i need the name of all these?



Anybody know what this is?I only got two the rest are missing.



Only the long runners look like this.But it's no as clean as it seems need to brush it up now.Think once i do the inside of plenum and runners i will tape the holes then sand blast them.









Couldn't get inside that much gotta do by hand now.Lucky me my hand fits inside.



Looks dirtier then you think.











Clean rails and the thing that hooks up to it.





Here's the injector before i cleaned it by the way this ones a bad one.







After i cleaned them ohhhhhh ahhhhhhhh.... They all look like this now.



This goes to the coolant hose look how clean it is inside though.

Any suggestions.As of what i've done so far?Tomorrow i get out at 12:30 from finals will come home an disassemble my water pump i think it is.But you guys know what im talking about.

I was thinking broadcasting it live while i take it apart so you guys can help me while i do it?

***IMPORTANT***I need this part email me price shipped to 94531.Rust is eating it up.

[email protected]

[Q451990]

The lopsided washer looking deal fits under the cap that holds the injector down... Should be able to order them and the rubber spacer from IOS. The upper injector o-ring is replaceable. Plenum looks good so far! A few cans of brake parts cleaner and a bottle brush from Walmart will make short work of it. Make sure to get the EGR port clean... it's the hardest part of the job.

Remember that the pipe that you're wanting to replace is made of aluminum, so it can't rust - but it can corrode I would think. I would try cleaning it up with a sanding sponge or some sand paper - just to see how it turns out.

I think a live webcast would be a NICO first!

Heath

[unknown007]

I'll try and set up the webcam tomorrow 12:30 pacific time on justin.tv/unknown007 not for sure but will try.

Well it looks like rust it's dented inwards too.My teacher said it's best to replace asap.

So what rubber o-rings to replace upper injector and lower one?and the rubber that goes under the cap too right?Two of them had the rubber and metal tops dunno if u saw that.

Well hope it all works out tomorrow.Sign up on justin.tv too so you can chat with me on the chat room that's if your wanting to help.

edit:to remove water pump i have to take the fan and belt off right?
Modified by unknown007 at 1:32 AM 1/21/2009