Project Stick: Redtop91's SR20DET Rebuild Thread

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Hijacker
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The mainstuds contact the shallow side of the oil pan.


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srdub-t
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haha im in the same exact boat as you im attempting my very first engine build to! but the arp main studs dont clear the oilpan so you have to shave a few mm for clearence.

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redtop91
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Yeah I figured that's what you meant. I was planning on using a high capacity aftermarket pan. Do those not clear either?

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The upper oil pan. Not the lower

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srdub-t
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did you get a chance to whatch the sr build vid yet? if so what did you think?

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redtop91
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Hijacker wrote:The upper oil pan. Not the lower
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh. Well in that case I have no idea what to do. I guess I'd just shave it down since it's not subjected to major stress. Is it soft enough for a dremel or will I need like an angle grinder or something?
srdub-t wrote:did you get a chance to whatch the sr build vid yet? if so what did you think?
It won't play on my computer for some reason and my Xbox is broken so no. I'll get around to it after finals week probably.

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srdub-t
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karmakaze said he used an angle grinder on my thread

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redtop91
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Angle grinder it is then. Do you know how much it needs to clear?

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srdub-t
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no clue. think we have to get there and then eyeball it.

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redtop91
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Another quick question. Studs being studs, when torqued, the torque reading you take will be across the entire stud no? But what about bolts? Particularly rods bolts.

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redtop91 wrote:I guess I should have renamed the thread to my rebuild/question thread. I have no prior engine building experience. This is a first attempt for me.
i only built my head. but my thread was title sr build and questions thread. have a mod change it lol.

i used arp headstuds.Apexi headgasketBc 264 camsBc springsNew valve seals

but i wont be aiming for 500 horse. make sure you take alot of pics

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Tulsa_S-13
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Hey Ryon, if you need any tools feel free to ask. I have pretty much anything imaginable including things you probably won't need to use (bead blasting booth, MIG welder, etc.).

After I get back from Baton Rogue I'll give you a call.

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redtop91
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Baton Rogue? That's awesome. I probably won't be doing much until after finals are over.

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redtop91 wrote:Another quick question. Studs being studs, when torqued, the torque reading you take will be across the entire stud no? But what about bolts? Particularly rods bolts.
Here's some pages on bolt and stud torquing characteristics.

http://www.mondello.com/Pages/Articles/1/1.htm

http://www.carcraft.com/techar....html

I hadn't really thought too heavily on bolt stretch until I read those articles, and you can pretty much guarantee that I'll be using a stretch gauge on my motor build

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redtop91
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Bookmarked. Thanks for the good info again. Another issue that I have questions about is sleeving. How expensive really is the process? The sleeves themselves are dirt cheap but from what I gather getting them installed is a lot.

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i don't have any experience having a block sleeved. I've only seen one horror story about them not being installed properly. I would have the shop be extra careful. torque plate and everything bolted in properly you know. Precise, careful machine work is never cheap, but always worth it

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srdub-t
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mazworx.com has all the prices for them to do it but honestly with ur hp goals its not worth the money. you can just go stock bore stock compression and alota boost!
Modified by srdub-t at 12:45 PM 12/8/2007

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redtop91
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Yeah sleeving is one thing I hear huge variances in opinion over. Some say for 500 sleeving is good insurance, others don't. I haven't decided on it yet. I'm really going to let the block decide that one. If I have to do a massive overbore to correct scoring I'll probably sleeve.
Hijacker wrote:i don't have any experience having a block sleeved. I've only seen one horror story about them not being installed properly. I would have the shop be extra careful. torque plate and everything bolted in properly you know. Precise, careful machine work is never cheap, but always worth it
That is very true. How would you decide on a machine shop's trustworthiness? It's not like you can undo bad machine work in most cases. A one shot deal kida thing.

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Hijacker
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I inquire around about local shops and see their rep. I have a shop that I send my heads and blocks to on recommendation from more knowledgable people than me. They also used to be a NASCAR motor shop, so I know they're used to working on motors that see some high abuse. If you stay local, just ask questions.

Letting the block decide your course is always the best idea. For my rebuild, I was toying with staying with stock pistons or dropping aftermarket in. My power goals are well within the stock internals' capability, but once I found the block needed .020" overbore, my mind was made up. I'd say you could do a .030" overbore safely without resleeving, but a .040" would weaken the stock sleeves too much and require resleeving

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Odd question here but Redtop do you play TF2?

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Tulsa_S-13
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Hey Ryon, it might be hard to get a hold of me with finals and everything going on, but remind me to look up the names of the places that have done machine work for me.


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redtop91
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Quick question before I order my pistons this week, about to where will a 1.2MM Headgasket, with a CBN decked head and block (How much will they actually take off each? The amount of lateral runout from the highest to lowest point on the cylinder head/block?), put the compression ration of my engine if I use 9.0 CR pistons? I realize that will depend on how warped the two are, so no exact numbers needed just a ballpark using the average runout of an SR.

Oh yeah, JE or CP?

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otterman
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You'll have 13.0:1

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redtop91
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Glad I can always count on you for accurate info.

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sr20powerd
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Are you going to get a new crank or reuse the old one?
Modified by sr20powerd at 9:46 PM 12/16/2007

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sbird1
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I believe he said he was using the stock crank but modifying it.

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redtop91
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sr20powerd wrote:Are you going to get a new crank of reuse the old one?
I'm torn. I'm lazy a flip so buying a spec OEM crank would save me some time but cost some extra money. Probably reuse the old one.

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sr20powerd
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From experiences of other peoples cars, once a crank spins a bearing, it will all ways spin bearings. For some reason, they just never work right afterwards.

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As long as the crank is balance checked, and re machined by a quality machine shop it should be fine. Make sure you plastigauge everything as you are putting it back together, tolerances need to be perfect.

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s13_silvia_redtop
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hey redtop91 i am doin my build right now and i just bought my CP pistons, i heard they were better and i have a friend melt a JE piston awhile back. where do you live i live in tulsa. do you know jesse with the rb25 s13?


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