Project Stick: Redtop91's SR20DET Rebuild Thread

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

Mouse6933 wrote: i spoke to enjuku today and they told me to go to a forum, blaaaaaaaaaaaah soo hear i am.
Enjuku referred you to a forum? Call again and try to get a different person.
codyace wrote:500 whp would be a good 'limit' for 72lbers
Would you run 72lbers if you were shooting for 500 or step up for insurance?


User avatar
Mouse6933
Posts: 768
Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2006 12:08 pm

Post

yea it was super weird of enjuku cuz we deal with doug all the time, and hes a super good guy, but anyways yea i guess for safety ima get some larger injectors but im kinda in a bind, cuz i need my car finsihed in bout a week in a half , cuz its currently located at a dealership, my buddy works there but he is movin to cali soo i have to get my car outta there. anyways ima take some pics today , ill maybe make my own thread soo im not hijacking hyours, thanks for the info

User avatar
srdub-t
Posts: 644
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 4:59 pm
Car: white 91 SR22 powered coupe 240sx, 95 black c36 amg

Post

well enthalpy sais that 740's will be great for my setup and thats right around 500 wheel.... So i dunno why you would wanna run bigger than 850's?

User avatar
otterman
Posts: 3380
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 5:43 pm

Post

RyDog, go 810/850s. I'll be out of town until next week sometime so I dont know if I'll talk to you on AIM or not about it.

I'll be sure to get you that video too.

User avatar
srdub-t
Posts: 644
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 4:59 pm
Car: white 91 SR22 powered coupe 240sx, 95 black c36 amg

Post

I still think that 850's is too big, you wanna be at 80% duty cycle

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

otterman wrote:RyDog, go 810/850s. I'll be out of town until next week sometime so I dont know if I'll talk to you on AIM or not about it.

I'll be sure to get you that video too.
Cool beans. What happened to Black Bear BTW? I knew there was a reason I keep you around LOL.
srdub-t wrote:I still think that 850's is too big, you wanna be at 80% duty cycle
As far as I know the idea is that 80% duty cycle is the max, I don't think it's possible to have a problem because your duty cycle is too low.

User avatar
otterman
Posts: 3380
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 5:43 pm

Post

redtop91 wrote:
Cool beans. What happened to Black Bear BTW? I knew there was a reason I keep you around LOL.
Finally got my **** ready, PEACE OUUUTTT

User avatar
S3t0_S13
Posts: 4526
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 2:24 pm
Car: Of Nothing But FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL FAIL
Contact:

Post

wtf

User avatar
srdub-t
Posts: 644
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 4:59 pm
Car: white 91 SR22 powered coupe 240sx, 95 black c36 amg

Post

its not that 80% is max its that 80% is most efficeint

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
Contact:

Post

redtop91 wrote:Enjuku referred you to a forum? Call again and try to get a different person.
LOL, you can't blame them...they must get a milllion calls a day...
redtop91 wrote:Would you run 72lbers if you were shooting for 500 or step up for insurance?
If I knew I was going for 500 whp, and that was all the more it would ever be, I'd be happy with 72lbers.

With that said, boost is like crack, and we always want more....

I'm a response guy, I love the no bull**** small turbo get up and go, but I know if I was building a highway runner....you bet I'd be going at a 850ish CC to 1000 cc injector....
redtop91 wrote:As far as I know the idea is that 80% duty cycle is the max, I don't think it's possible to have a problem because your duty cycle is too low.
80% duty cycle was a oldschool standard someone said was safe. With new injector design, and new models out, putting them into the 90's is ok. There is alot more involved than simply 'duty cylce' when determing safe from not safe (lag time, latency whatever, all that smart guy stuff)....

FWIW: I would not run an MSD/Rochester (50lb/72lb/96lb) anywhere above 90 percent duty cycle.... they are known to stick under high load working conditions...

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

codyace wrote:If I knew I was going for 500 whp, and that was all the more it would ever be, I'd be happy with 72lbers.

With that said, boost is like crack, and we always want more....

I'm a response guy, I love the no bull**** small turbo get up and go, but I know if I was building a highway runner....you bet I'd be going at a 850ish CC to 1000 cc injector....

80% duty cycle was a oldschool standard someone said was safe. With new injector design, and new models out, putting them into the 90's is ok. There is alot more involved than simply 'duty cylce' when determing safe from not safe (lag time, latency whatever, all that smart guy stuff)....

FWIW: I would not run an MSD/Rochester (50lb/72lb/96lb) anywhere above 90 percent duty cycle.... they are known to stick under high load working conditions...
Good info.
srdub-t wrote:its not that 80% is max its that 80% is most efficeint
Ohhhh ok gotcha.

Question: A friend of mine boosted his Z and he had a really huge problem with the OEM bearings. Apparently after the teardown, he found that the OEM bearings in his Z weren't Tri Metal, but rather some weird alloy that changed state when high temp oil hit it and really weakened the bearings permanently. I've never heard of this problem before. Don't older Nissans use the lead based F770? If so is an aftermarket bearing really necessary? And also what other purpose does an oil cooler serve besides bearing longevity?

User avatar
IanS
Posts: 9757
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 3:07 pm
Car: 2002 Subaru WRX, 2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2004 Infiniti G35 Coupe.
Location: Esko, MN
Contact:

Post

redtop91 wrote:what other purpose does an oil cooler serve besides bearing longevity?
It helps regulate the oil temperature which takes a load off the cooling system, it also prevents oil breakdown do to overheated oil, though this is not as big of a problem with todays synthetic oils. I would consider an oil cooler cheap insurance, especially if you plan on running an oil cooled turbo. One thing to remember when installing an oil cooler, always use an oil thermostat to avoid overcooling the oil. My 2 cents.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

our turbos are water cooled. so the oil cooler isnt as important i think. i might do one later on but i dont think it is super important

User avatar
srdub-t
Posts: 644
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 4:59 pm
Car: white 91 SR22 powered coupe 240sx, 95 black c36 amg

Post

our turbos are oil and water cooled

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

i believe the oil is only for lubricant purposes. becasue it has a restrictor in it. so it doesnt get enough really to make a diffence.

User avatar
otterman
Posts: 3380
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 5:43 pm

Post

idahotuner wrote:our turbos are water cooled. so the oil cooler isnt as important i think. i might do one later on but i dont think it is super important
srdub-t wrote:our turbos are oil and water cooled
That's great and all but he's not going to run a T25 or 8. Is whatever turbo hes going to get water cooled? Ohhh snaps more peices to the puzzle.

User avatar
srdub-t
Posts: 644
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2006 4:59 pm
Car: white 91 SR22 powered coupe 240sx, 95 black c36 amg

Post

im not running a t28 eather im running a gt3071r and thats oil and watercooled and hes gonna run a gt3076r whitch is also oil and watercooled.... snap son

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

lol miss understanding there. i am going run a t28 so yea. cleared that one up.

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

redtop91 wrote:Question: A friend of mine boosted his Z and he had a really huge problem with the OEM bearings. Apparently after the teardown, he found that the OEM bearings in his Z weren't Tri Metal, but rather some weird alloy that changed state when high temp oil hit it and really weakened the bearings permanently. I've never heard of this problem before. Don't older Nissans use the lead based F770? If so is an aftermarket bearing really necessary?

User avatar
homeslicej2
Posts: 5446
Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:46 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX S13 SR'd hatch

Post

^

codyace
Posts: 1195
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:22 am
Car: S14 w/redtop
Contact:

Post

redtop91 wrote:Question: A friend of mine boosted his Z and he had a really huge problem with the OEM bearings. Apparently after the teardown, he found that the OEM bearings in his Z weren't Tri Metal, but rather some weird alloy that changed state when high temp oil hit it and really weakened the bearings permanently. I've never heard of this problem before. Don't older Nissans use the lead based F770? If so is an aftermarket bearing really necessary?
I actually have never really dablled with Z cars, namely because there aren't many in the area, nor people that I know that own them...I wish thoughm, as a Z32 is one of my favorite cars of all time

As far as OEM bearings in the SR, that is what I swear by, unless you're looking at doing the main cap oil modification (mazworx), where they prefer to use the multidrilled ACL (iirc) bearings. Clevite ones may work, but if you're building the bottom end for some revs, a slight bit 'looser' than normal is the ticket...which you can do with the OEM bearings :D
SideWays=smiles wrote:It helps regulate the oil temperature which takes a load off the cooling system, it also prevents oil breakdown do to overheated oil, though this is not as big of a problem with todays synthetic oils. I would consider an oil cooler cheap insurance, especially if you plan on running an oil cooled turbo. One thing to remember when installing an oil cooler, always use an oil thermostat to avoid overcooling the oil. My 2 cents.
For those not doing track duty, a better alternative may be a greddy oil pan instead. The extra capacity and cooling fins should do a good job of keeping a street car happy...

BUT any real track car and or drift car should certainly use the oil cooler setup. Between bearing life extension, cam lubircation, and generally 'happier' oil, it's something that just makes sense.

FWIW: I will be installing one over the winter on my car, LONG overdue....

User avatar
s13_silvia_redtop
Posts: 126
Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:10 am
Car: 240sx

Post

hey redtop91 i think i have met you before.... did you ever meet two other guys at a quicktrip at 91st and yale. this guy i meet had a 240sx with an sr basically stock though. im not sure if it was you or not?

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

That was definitely me :D Did you have the red S13 or the Greyish tannish one?

User avatar
s13_silvia_redtop
Posts: 126
Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:10 am
Car: 240sx

Post

i have the gray one. but that one got wrecked too many times and is now for sale all fixed up. i now drive a white one with a pearl paintjob the paint from the factory just nicer lol. but its down until my motor gets finshed. how close are you to getting yours done?

User avatar
Tulsa_S-13
Posts: 1953
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 2:14 pm
Car: 1991 SR 240sx

Post

Awesome! Another Tulsa member!

User avatar
otterman
Posts: 3380
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 5:43 pm

Post

s13_silvia_redtop wrote:hey redtop91 i think i have met you before.... did you ever meet two other guys at a quicktrip at 91st and yale. this guy i meet was sucking off another dude in a 240sx with an sr basically stock though. he smelled like sweaty *** and chips. im not sure if it was you or not?
redtop91 wrote:That was definitely me :D Did you have the red S13 or the Greyish tannish one?

ZL-Auto
Posts: 953
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:32 am
Car: Zerolift Autolab - 513-874-2508 - [email protected]

Post

redtop91 wrote:
Enjuku referred you to a forum? Call again and try to get a different person.

Would you run 72lbers if you were shooting for 500 or step up for insurance?
If you need help with your build give me a call.Thanks,Robert

469rwhp SR -Bored & Built - 3071R -

User avatar
otterman
Posts: 3380
Joined: Tue Feb 21, 2006 5:43 pm

Post

ZL-Auto wrote:
If you need help with your build give me a call.Thanks,Robert

469rwhp SR -Bored & Built - 3071R -
Very nice! There you go BlackBear. Got your self a pro!

Is your motor even out of your freakin car yet? You posted pics of you getting the engine ready to be pulled in November. It's been really nice outside too so you're out of excuses.

User avatar
redtop91
Posts: 16325
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 9:05 am
Car: ↑ ↑ ↓ ↓ ← → ← → B A Start

Post

Not so. School has begun so I am now penniless and timeless. If I can get some miscellaneous crap sold from around the house sold soon I'll be placing the order for my turbo soon.
ZL-Auto wrote:
If you need help with your build give me a call.Thanks,Robert

469rwhp SR -Bored & Built - 3071R -
100% for sure. Any input you have is much appreciated.

ZL-Auto
Posts: 953
Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:32 am
Car: Zerolift Autolab - 513-874-2508 - [email protected]

Post

you have email


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”