Project Stick: Redtop91's SR20DET Rebuild Thread

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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otterman
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IanS
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Any more updates? More Pix.

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danstachet
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lol, what a thread. went from cool build stuff... to best thread fight ever... back to cool build stuff. just kidding.

I JUST tore my motor down for some head work to be done. seems like this is the winter for projects i guess. im prepping mine for a turbo and fuel system upgrade. i want to get everything out of that new turbo as soon as i put it on lol

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redtop91
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Nope. The only updates for awhiles are probably going to be parts being ordered. It's getting ready to start snowing. I'd like the get the engine out before then so I can at least be working on the motor instead of having my thumb up my as$.

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IanS
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PSHH, it doesnt snow in OK, get to work.

This is what my car looked like when I got home last wednesday.


Modified by SideWays=smiles at 12:03 AM 11/26/2007

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Tulsa_S-13
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I was going to drop by to give you the engine hoist leveler but came down with a pretty nasty cold.

Blah

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otterman
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You got a engine stand and **** Reddy?

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redtop91
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otterman wrote:You got a engine stand and **** Reddy?
Yeah I'm borrowing a friend of mines.
Tulsa_S-13 wrote:I was going to drop by to give you the engine hoist leveler but came down with a pretty nasty cold.

Blah
Weak immune system FTL.


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homeslicej2
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Super!


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redtop91
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SideWays=smiles wrote:PSHH, it doesnt snow in OK, get to work.
Hahahaha it does, I don't think it compares to Minnesota though. OK I'm torn on what rods I want. I'm shooting for 500whp with whatever turbo setup I choose so I need some rods that are good for close to 600 chp. I hear such huge variances in opinion for what Eagle Rods will hold I'm kind of scared to get them. So will the Eagle Rods hold up to 500whp and if not what 4340 billet steel rods are tried and true and won't break the bank?

Logan76
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homeslicej2 wrote:Super!
SUPER DUPER!

Ryon, just go with the Eagle rods, you'll be fine.

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redtop91
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Yeah. I trust yours and WD's opinions so Eagle it is. I'll be placing the order soon. Stay tuned for updates.

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otterman
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REDTOP, AIM****KKKKK

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guess what guys i am going to start working o nmy car. YAHOO.

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homeslicej2
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redtop91 wrote:Yeah. I trust yours and WD's opinions so Eagle it is. I'll be placing the order soon. Stay tuned for updates.
You don't trust my opinion I may not have done my work myself, but I know some things This relationship is over!!! You cut me deep man! ......lol, j/k

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redtop91
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Mini update:





Mmmmmm. Chromoly :

Question: Do they eagle rods only have ARP caps or are the bolts ARP too? Also should I use the assembly lube provided or is there better?

DVD for things I can't visualize:

I spoiled myself with this next one justifying because winter is rolling around:



That is all. Stay tuned. Updates biweekly.
Modified by redtop91 at 10:29 PM 12/6/2007

idahotuner
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send me sweat shirt now lol

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otterman
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redtop91 wrote:
I spoiled myself with this next one justifying because winter is rolling around:
Redtop buying stuff like this is why this build will take 4 years.

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Hijacker
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redtop91 wrote:Question: Do they eagle rods only have ARP caps or are the bolts ARP too? Also should I use the assembly lube provided or is there better?
Bolts and caps. There would be no point in putting only strengthened caps on, when problems occur over bolt stretch.

I would use the provided lube. ARP is anal about the type of lube to be used, so I trust them. IIRC, it's not so much an assembly lube, as it is an oil, much akin to motor oil, to help lubricate the bolt threads. Assembly lube tends to be thicker and heavier.

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homeslicej2
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^what he said. Your room is going to look like an engine supply store by the time you start the build.

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sbird1
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Lookin good Homie! You never answered the question about what compression you're going to run. After the build is done, don't let any family members drive your car. Especially is they don't check oil levels!

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otterman
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Hijacker wrote:I would use the provided lube. ARP is anal about the type of lube to be used, so I trust them.
Redtop is pretty anal about lube too... if you know what I mean (it's how he passes his classes )

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redtop91
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Hijacker wrote:
Bolts and caps. There would be no point in putting only strengthened caps on, when problems occur over bolt stretch.

I would use the provided lube. ARP is anal about the type of lube to be used, so I trust them. IIRC, it's not so much an assembly lube, as it is an oil, much akin to motor oil, to help lubricate the bolt threads. Assembly lube tends to be thicker and heavier.
Gotcha. Thanks. I'm gonna need you keeping an eye over this thread because I'm liable to do something stupid.
homeslicej2 wrote:^what he said. Your room is going to look like an engine supply store by the time you start the build.
Yeah I've already cleared away a space for my work table.
sbird1 wrote:Lookin good Homie! You never answered the question about what compression you're going to run. After the build is done, don't let any family members drive your car. Especially is they don't check oil levels!
LOL. Thanks. Compression ratio will be 8.5:1. This is going to be a pump gas machine. There will probably be methanol injection to prevent any detenation on race days. I want this to be a semi streetable machine and to me a street machine running race fuel, is not truly a street car.

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sounds like you are building one nasty machine

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redtop91
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500whp or bust

idahotuner
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HOLY SH*T i want 400 lol that will be enough

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srdub-t
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are you gonna go arp studs for the mains?

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redtop91
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Yep. All engine bolt/stud hardware will be ARP.

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srdub-t
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so are you going to send your oilpan out for the clearencing or do it your self cuz thats what im stuck at right now (even tho im not there yet) just thinking ahead.

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redtop91
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I guess I should have renamed the thread to my rebuild/question thread. I have no prior engine building experience. This is a first attempt for me. That being said, what do you mean? LOL.

Edit: Do you mean like redrilling the oil pan for clearance?


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