My build thread - Project Oreo

[Magnum375 Jr.]

BEST UPDATE EVER!!!!!!

Yes, as Dante pointed out, it lives now. Last night, Keegan, Tom and I started off the weekend watching the drift bible. So I got really excited. We started on the car around 12pm today. Pushed it into the garage. Turned on the kerosene heater, and started work. I started off by fixing the MAF, installing the SR MAF and reinstalling the greddy/trust intake. I found that it was missing the screw that was holding the filter in place, so I fixed that at the same time. Keegan installed the bracket to hold it in place.



Keegan began work on the cleaning up the wiring, resoldering the starter interlock, which was the main reason the car didnt start before.



After fixing that, he began working on cleaning up my fuse box and getting it to fit like stock. He also made a custom relay for my fuel pump, reusing and depinning the stock relay. You can see that here.



Here is with fusebox cover on...



While Keegan was doing all that, I also went back over the stock fuel pump wiring in the back to make sure everything was good. I moved my ground to the outside of the fuel pump. I also unwrapped the fuel pump wiring to remove the excess poo wiring that one of the previous owners did. Tom resoldered it so it was stronger and then retaped it. Looks good now.



So at this point, all the wiring bugs were fixed and ready to go. So in goes the battery. I am proud to say this battery fits so perfectly snug its amazing. So here is a pic of the guys and then the battery getting terminals put on. The power wire was a toughy to get on, but 2 long flat head screw drivers, a rubber mallet and some power, its on.





So we tested all the systems, headlights dont work right, sooooooo....they are in permanent up....no sleepy eyes for me, but oh well. So I cranked it over....here is proof she started....LOL



So I let Keegan drive it, since I can't drive stick, and I believe that since Keegan took so much of his time to do this, and its fastttttttt. Keegans evil laugh and my man giggle proved it. It shoots fireballs, which I think is freaking awesome. I think I will need to recirculate the BOV someday, to fix the horrible drivability issue of the idle dropping to nothing, the decel settings are horrible. Oh and here is Dante's face after it fired up and ran. LOL



Keegan also ran the fan relay so that it uses the fuel relays power, so it only works when the car is on. Here is a pic of that.



So yeah, thats about it, oh and I continued waxing the roof.



Well there you go, I can't wait to drive it tomorrow. Lemme know what you thinks.

[mrgreeneyes]

mild correction, i wired the fan relay trigger wire to the trigger wire for the fuel relay, so that they only come on when the car is on, but only once the inline temp sensor tells it to turn on.

cheap thermostatic setup FTW. same one i did on toms and jeffs.

we did WORK today.

this car is freaking quuuuuick. runs SUPER smooth. just needs a recirc and lifes good.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

NO

It just needs NO BOV.

[brn-n-jpn]

dont recirculate and keep the bov, you can adjust the bov or get a better one but hey it at least runs now

[Magnum375 Jr.]

I dunno, I love the sound of this BOV, like what I always wanted....I'll deal with it for a while, but I'll prolly recirc eventually, once I get all the other bugs of the car worked out....like setting up the ebrake, bleeding brakes, setting in the temp sensor and having that setup....It's a work in progress like usual.

[240sxJoe91]

Glad to see that its up and running keep us informed lol cant wait for more updates

[Magnum375 Jr.]

Hehehehe, so I forgot to mention, in order to cheer Dante up, I bought him pizza and he requested grape drank....dunno why LOL..... He was pretty happy about it..



Thanks again Keegan for the pic....LOL.....Great time yesterday.

[Didderson]

Lol purple drank. I was installing the glove box in the other 'sad dante' pic. Don't get any ideas!Some of the time I was looking for tools and stuff to do aka when you took a pic of 3 of us lol..

Buut I'm glad I could help w/ the whole process. Glad I was there to assure you the fuel pump wasn't the noise when we hooked up the battery for the first time, it was the cd player lol.

Your TRUST intake tube has that inlet capped off for the pair valve(edit for non confusing ppl who read build threads). We'd just run a line across the engine bay from bov to the oem rubber intake turbo pipe where it is capped. It looked great driving around in the dark w/ the kouki tails man. You have 1 license plate bulb (passenger side) and 1 3rd brake light (passenger side) to fix lol. I prob have extras.s*** was fun, sorry I had to leave. I should have left sooner UGH but whatever. Cait's happy it runs and I think she's happier that I won't be obligated to help you out as much lol!

Also, nothing wrong with running rich between shifts. It's fun! You can also get a tune to remove that effect.
Modified by Didderson at 7:28 PM 12/13/2009

[mrgreeneyes]

The recirc has to be after the maf not before. The inlet will not work for that

[Didderson]

Bah I had a feeling I was wrong about that but I didn't remember. Lol the maf would read even more air = even more fuellllll!It shot a few random fireballs today at idle LOL.Driving was fun. Clutch is really low and I'd say we need to adjust it, but Joel didn't want to because he's used to it like that for now. He's not afraid to step out the rear in a rain drift/donuts lol... Some magnum skill put to good use!

[Magnum375 Jr.]

I love this car.... im afraid im gunna want to daily this. I'm driving it to work. Tom told me to put the car in nuetral, vs holding the clutch in while coasting to a red light, doing this, I found that putting it in neutral and letting the clutch out stalls it, it just chokes out and dies. So for now I'm running it with clutch in to coast, but in the wet, it gets wheel spin through 1 and 2, and then a little in 3rd. I love it.....I can't wait to get out on dry roads so i can feel the power, versus feather to keep from spinning.

[brn-n-jpn]

if the car is dieing when you are coming stop, tighten the bov thats what i had to do

[mrgreeneyes]

dont hold the clutch.

unnecessary wear on throwout bearing, pressure plate, master, and slave.

we will recirc and problems go away. dont kill that clutch....

[Bumnah]

Recirculate it, riceboys vent to atmosphere on a MAF car.

Did you tap into the fuel pump for the 12v turn on? Another option (as I like to stay away from fuel pump stuff) is the ac compressor relay by the driver side headlight. It's what I use for my 12v for the fans.

[mrgreeneyes]

Recirculate it, riceboys vent to atmosphere on a MAF car.

Did you tap into the fuel pump for the 12v turn on? Another option (as I like to stay away from fuel pump stuff) is the ac compressor relay by the driver side headlight. It's what I use for my 12v for the fans.

amen to recirc.

and NO, i used the trigger wire for the fuel pump relay to trigger the one side fo the relay, not the fuel relay's output.

i made a standalone relay harness for it all, but located in oem style in the fuse/relay boxes. i used an oem BROWN relay which is a double relay. one terminal set per fan, and both run off one pair of triggers.

if you look at pics of the bay, you cant even tell the wires are in there. i hid it really well

here: (quote of ME from one of my other forums)

SUPER simple fix for rad fans. this setup will provide a bulletproof, simple thermostatically controlled (180*) fan driver. this turn the fans on ONLY when needed and will not drain the battery with the car "off".

THIS CAN ALSO BE USED ON MANY MANY OTHER CARS, NOT JUST 240SX'S.... TAKE NOTES PEOPLE

PARTS LIST:

- OEM temp switch from ANY 89-90 SOHC 240sx. located in lower rad hose, take the tube and switch and two-wire harness. (junkyard)

- One standard 4 or 5 pin relay, rated to 30/40A. Weatherproof is recommended (rallylights.com)

- Ring terminals in 12+g and 18+g (auto parts store)

- Small spool of 12g and 18g wire (auto parts store)

- Female spade terminals for connecting to relay **or harness provided with weatherproof relay** (12g and 18g) (auto parts store)

- Two high current rated ATC fuse holders (auto parts store)

-----------INSTALL----------

ON THE FAN:

Ground the NEG wire to CHASSIS via ring terminal (12g or bigger wire)Hook the POS wire to Pin 87 of Relay (12g or bigger wire)

ON THE RELAY:

Pin 87 - Fan POS wire (12g or bigger wire)Pin 87a - NothingPin 30 - Fused 12v wire straight from battery POS cable (12g or bigger wire, 20 amp fuse)Pin 85 - Coolant switch (pick one of the wires) (18g or bigger)Pin 86 - IGN switched power via a 5A fuse (18g or bigger)

ON THE TEMP SWITCH:

First wire - To pin 85 of relay (18g or bigger)Second wire - To chassis GND (18g or bigger)

Sounds a LOT more complicated than it is. its mega simple.

This is how i did joels, but utilizing the OEM relay instead of the 5 pin standard.

[Didderson]

dont hold the clutch.unnecessary wear on throwout bearing, pressure plate, master, and slave.

Thank you. Now if I could only get my girlfriend to stop doing this haha!

Keegan I think you should provide info to what pin numbers you mean. You mean for the ECU or what? The numbers are confusing to me even but I do need more hands on training with relays. Ugh too bad I left LOL.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

LOL

Tom that little smiley face is perfect. I could imagine you doing something like that.

[/threadjack]

[mrgreeneyes]

Thank you. Now if I could only get my girlfriend to stop doing this haha!

Keegan I think you should provide info to what pin numbers you mean. You mean for the ECU or what? The numbers are confusing to me even but I do need more hands on training with relays. Ugh too bad I left LOL.

thats why it says :

"ON THE RELAY" and then right below it is the pin numbers FOR THE RELAY lol.

but i adapted this to an oem relay with non standard pin numbering. this guide is for people using the standard ones.

[Magnum375 Jr.]

Well, today now that its not rainy, i noticed something I do not like. When I leave at stop lights, I get a cloud of blue smoke. There is oil residue inside the bov.....I really am not a happy person right now. I do not want to replace rings on a 38k mile motor..... Especially when other things are needed. Thank god I dont depend on this car. Initial thoughts from other people are turbo seal, or blown turbo. If it is a turbo, I'll either rebuild or replace with a used t28. I just wish I wasn't so lacking on tools and knowledge, so i could do all these projects myself, without needing people's help all the time...ughhh. So there are many projects still on the board and now I have to add another to the list. FML.
Modified by Magnum375 Jr. at 1:04 PM 12/14/2009

[brn-n-jpn]

yes no clutch holding and if you get the car tuned there is no need to recir plus you will need to relocate bov to hot side, but new ic and piping would be good

[mrgreeneyes]

Well, today now that its not rainy, i noticed something I do not like. When I leave at stop lights, I get a cloud of blue smoke. There is oil residue inside the bov.....I really am not a happy person right now. I do not want to replace rings on a 38k mile motor..... Especially when other things are needed. Thank god I dont depend on this car.

chill dude. its probably just an oil seal on the turbo. not uncommon on these things. cheap/easy fix.

the car doesnt feel like compression is lost, so dont jump to the worst conclusions.

and 38K?! lol. classic importer mileage bulls***. "less than 40K miles" my a**... lol still probably lower miles tho.

now my KA that puffs blue smoke and doesnt feel like great compression... thats most likely my rings.

take a minute. breathe.

( i have two spare t25 snails laying around.... youre more than welcome to dibs one)

[Magnum375 Jr.]

Ok, that sounds good Keegan, If its just seal, no need for a t25, but its good to know you have one laying around. I'm thinking I need to step away from it for a few days, get a game plan down, get all the other crap working, and somewhere in between get the turbo checked. I just feel like a nub cause I don't know what I'm looking for, and I hate having to ask questions constantly. Ugh, the list for parts and labor keeps growing, and I dont wanna put a whole lotta money in.....I guess its time to do some deep research, find out what I need to look for, take a whole weekend, jack the car up, fix all my issues, like the ebrake, fans and once all of it is fixed, then go on to repairing the motor issues. Sorry if this sounds like I'm panicing, just more then I bargained for, shoulda researched a little more before I jumped into a project car....just mad at myself.

[brn-n-jpn]

replace with T28

[Magnum375 Jr.]

Only problem is money and time, on the plus side, I may have someone to do the rust fix for freeeeeeeeeee. He does car stuff on the side, I'd have to talk with him, so once I talk to my neighbor about it, we'll see about that too. I am going to state college this weekend, but next weekend I think I'm going to drain the rad fluid, and cut the lower hose, insert the ka temp sensor, and refill with fluid. After that, some weekend after christmas, I'll do the hydro brake install, which I will need help, cause I dont know jack about brakes. Then once that sucker is in and functional, then its time to fix turbo issues, I'll start it up once or twice a week, check the oil, but other then that, the car is grounded for a while.....Just sucks to know it runs, just seeing it sit for a while again sucks.

[Didderson]

I feel your pain. My KA developed rod knock immediately after my re-assembly lol... fail.I'll be avail for said installs over the holidays yo. Just lmk. Good priority list though man, you have to get some things in order before driving it a lot.

[mrgreeneyes]

you can still drive it without many ill side effects. its just a small leak.

no need to panic. you bought a 20 year old car with a turbo-motor swap.

its not all duckies and bunnies and sunshine. but its a blast when things work harmoniously.

now my ka doesnt feel cool anymore... i was happy with my car til this weekend lol. and my SR comes home with me this weekend for sure... so yeah... ill be more than glad to show you the ins and outs.

[brn-n-jpn]

i will alsobe available to help

[Didderson]

I'm just throwin this out there for you guys... You could argue the turbo is designed to have axial loads due to pressurization of the intake charge pipes, but maybe it wasn't designed to withstand compressor surge. "Surge can eventually lead to thrust bearing failure due to the high loads associated with it."-source: the freakin' manufacturer: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/....html Probably why people get away with it is the compressor wheel size could be too small (versus other turbos) inside the compressor housing. If you had a more aggressive wheel/ closer tolerances, maybe the bearings would die faster.

Maybe the heavy backfiring contributed to it as well?lol idk. Run and say what you want, it just has to work and be fun.It's probably an ongoing argument for all turbo heads, but I'm not a turbo engineer so Idk.

sorry joel, hoping this is useful to ppl tho

I should add that ppl in forums (not turbo designers) suggest compressor surge is ok to have under 15 psi. Word of mouth.
Modified by Didderson at 9:10 PM 12/14/2009

[Magnum375 Jr.]

It's fine Tom, So I guess I'll take it to work every now and then just to keep seals lubed up and keep the motor from going into hibernation. But its def on the list, looking forward to learning more about owning a turbo car.

[brn-n-jpn]

Yes Tom is right compressor surge is bad but depends on the design of the turbo. I have done a lot research on turbo go and bad cheap and expensive. On sr stock turbos compression surge happens often mostly due to vaccum errors ie bov too tight. But they are very easy to fix. Buy ball bearing turbos, run the proper bov, shortest length for vaccum lines and so on. Not trying to threadjack just trying to share some knowledge but I can get you a good t28 new for cheap price if you want to go that route