ka24de vs. ka24det - Round II

[Razi]

I say 5!

[WDRacing]

I say 5!

That's what she said

[homeslicej2]

Casey, how many cars have you owned in your short driving life? How many S-chassis now? You remind me of a friend growing up who had over a dozen cars in a couple of years. I give it 8 weeks max before he sells this one.

[Chris28]

8 weeks max, but not before he puts r34 gt-r wheels on it.


OH, I got a daily. 2010 5sp m/t base model, baller status.

[Razi]

Sweeeeeet!

[homeslicej2]

It's definitely nice to have a DD with these cars, esp. since we mod them so much. Never know when something will need fixed.

[Kckouki]

Do you guys remember the red risky devil hatch? Do you all remember what kit and wing was on that?

[Razi]

I don't remember them having a red hatch.

Btw, if you rebuild with lower comp pistons, will the tune have to be adjust to compensate?

[WDRacing]

Nah, you'll just lose power until boost kicks in. Similar to retarding your timing when you don't have to. The plus side is that boost makes much more power then raising static compression. You don't HAVE to retune it, but it wouldn't hurt to have some more timing while off boost.

[Razi]

Cool.
Thanks WD!

Also, I finally found a heatshield!

[Chris28]

Niceee! OEM sleeper look ftw!

My top mount setup should be done relatively soon, I'll be sure to post some pictures of when it's all together

[Chris28]

Also...anyone happen to know what wheels these are?

[Razi]

My top mount setup should be done relatively soon, I'll be sure to post some pictures of when it's all together

Excellent!

No idea on the wheels.

[Chris28]

I found out, they're Forgeline. They are also around $900 dollars a wheel...no thanks!

Is anyone running an oil temp gauge? The sender on the one I just bought bottoms out inside the port before the threads start engaging, and even if I could thread it in the sender itself would be a huge hindrance to the oil flow. I'm going to stop by the fittings store tomorrow to see if they can think of anything, but until then I don't have any place to put my temp sender.

[Razi]

I think people usually put them on the oil pan.

[biggie]

Yep, my oil temp is under my oil return bung in the pan.

[homeslicej2]

I'll have one soon Chris. I just got some goodies in today and am waiting on more. Bought a Greddy oil pan (temp port in pan) and Splitfire coilpacks. I was going to just go with OEM coilpacks, but no one has any in stock and with Japan behind on manufacturing bc of the Tsunami, I wasn't willing to wait 3+ months for them (esp since two of the stock coils have numerous cracks in the casing). I am looking to buy all new gauges and was wondering about the Sgear ones? I imagine they are similiar to Autometer. I just like their simplicity of design, shallow mounting, full sweep face, etc. at a decent price. Do any of you have exp/stories about them?

[Razi]

Never heard of Sgear, if I had to buy new gauges, I'd try some STRi guages.


Or if I were baller, DEFI.

[homeslicej2]

Sgear are sold through Phase2. They are made in Taiwan and seem on par with Autometers. STRi are sold through ATI (auto-tech interiors). The website for STRi in the US redirects to ATI's page. STRi's are made by At Yitron Technology in Taiwan. So, I'd wager they are similiar as well. I just wanted a decent, lower priced, full-sweep gauge. The Sgears are simplier to install and I've been lazy here lately lol. I know DEFI's are good, but so are AEM's and several others. I should probably just stick with Autometer. They work fine (esp. their higher priced gauges) and I can get them at just about any parts store in the US.

[Chris28]

I was thinking people might have them in the pan. I'll most likely just get a 1/8th male to female adapter, hopefully it will be deep enough to let me put the sensor in there. I have another port in my oil cooler thermostat, but it's on the cooler side meaning it won't see any oil until the thermostat is fully open. Thanks for the replies.

[DubsSuck]

anyone know where i can get a set of oem replacement fuel lines?

[Chris28]

Stealership? Advance/Autozone sell fuel line by the foot, you're better off getting it there.

Unless you're talking about the hardlines that go near the rail on the intake manifold.

[biggie]

Yep, the rubber hoses are good at parts store.

Chris, hope you can make this:
annual-cn-com-cookout-sat-aug-20-2011-t536838.html

[SiDwAyZ240]

I know its a dumb question but does anybody know the tell tale sign of a spun bearing? After 1 year of piecing my car together it ran multiple times in the garage, drove it illegally a couple times to put fresh gas in it, and had tags on it for about 28hrs when a loud knocking started coming from the motor even though it ran fine. Drained the oil and there is copper dust flakes all in it and I pulled the valve cover and the flakes are everywhere.

Man, just realized that's 1 hell of a 200th post.

[Chris28]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNe-YrUny8M[/youtube]

That's rod knock.

Biggie, I'll probably be able to make it, won't be in the s13 though. I'll make Spen go with me haha.

[SiDwAyZ240]

Yeah, that's it. That's the most accurate video I've seen as I tried looking for it and every poorly filmed video sounds the same between valve tapping, chain rattle, or chain hitting valve cover.

Thanks Chris, so I'm assuming a full rebuild is in order? It's like a kick in the nuts considering I had the entire motor in pieces; new seals and gaskets; checked valve lash and what not, the only thing I didn't do was the bearings cause I thought I would have to get machine work to accept new bearings. I've had people tell me how I could have just swapped new bearings and rolled with it.

[Chris28]

You're definitely going to want to get the crank checked out. Whether or not there is damage to the rods depends on how badly the bearing spun. You can get to the rods and crank without taking the head off, if you just did a gasket refresh up there I'd just put the engine upside down on an engine stand and tackle it like that.

Funny thing is I took that video right after I did a full rebuild on my KA. Looking back on it I'm kind of astonished that it ran seeing as I didn't really use the FSM, but it was a stupid mistake that made me spin a bearing.

[SiDwAyZ240]

I actually have another block, I was just worried about the copper dust in my head and oil system cause those are new valve seals and there was a little scoring on the cam journals. Just was trying to figure out if I should change the bearings in my spare block and then rock on. I don't know if the little scoring hurts anything but it sure would be nice to salvage my head with my 248 cams. By the way, what was your mistake that caused the bearing failure?

Just trying to make good use of my money. I kinda feel that if I'm going to spend $$ for a machine shop to tighten everything up I might as well take them some forged internals and then have them do it. The first time around was supposed to be a quick set up to just get boosted, then down the road I was going to build.

[Chris28]

I didn't pay attention and put the rod caps on backwards haha.

[WDRacing]

Ouch...that's one you'll never do again...lol.