KA-T Plans, any advice?

[Razi]

I've been planning to go KA-T for a while, and I have made a list of parts I need, and I wondered if I was missing anything.

So far my list looks like this (minus the turbo)I'm only planning to run low boost. Just a little more power over stock.

-Megan Turbo manifold-Turbo elbow + downpipe-Intercooler + Piping (probably eBay)-BOV (I already got one)-Fuel Pressure Regulator, probably a Megan one (I have a question about this)-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump-Autometer gauges-Turbo timer

I already got the JGS oil lines and a T25 (I know I know, puny, but low boost for now then probably a t28 or t3 later down the road)I will possibly get a SAFC or ECU tune to dial things in so it runs nicely.Also will get some colder spark plugs and possibly new wires, but I'm not sure if I would need larger injectors for this since I don't plan to make much power.

My list seems pretty tiny, so I feel like I'm missing something.

I also had a question about the FPR.To confirm I have the correct FPR setting, I would need a A/F gauge to make sure I am running the proper setting right?

Any comments are welcome, thanks.

[zerepdivad]

I've been planning to go KA-T for a while, and I have made a list of parts I need, and I wondered if I was missing anything.

So far my list looks like this (minus the turbo)I'm only planning to run low boost. Just a little more power over stock.

-Megan Turbo manifold-Turbo elbow + downpipe-Intercooler + Piping (probably eBay)-BOV (I already got one)-Fuel Pressure Regulator, probably a Megan one (I have a question about this)-Walbro 255 Fuel Pump-Autometer gauges-Turbo timer

I already got the JGS oil lines and a T25 (I know I know, puny, but low boost for now then probably a t28 or t3 later down the road)I will possibly get a SAFC or ECU tune to dial things in so it runs nicely.Also will get some colder spark plugs and possibly new wires, but I'm not sure if I would need larger injectors for this since I don't plan to make much power.

My list seems pretty tiny, so I feel like I'm missing something.

I also had a question about the FPR.To confirm I have the correct FPR setting, I would need a A/F gauge to make sure I am running the proper setting right?

Any comments are welcome, thanks.

For the fuel you can either get an fmu *8:1* Or get sr injectors since they're so cheap and a nismo adjustable fpr, also pretty cheap online. But of course with the sr's you'll have to get some type of tune unlike the fmu route.For as cheap as sr 370's go for you may as well. But if you want you could just knock off like 2* of tiiming or so and run an fmu on stock injectors. and run no more than like 7-8 psi.

You'll probably need electric fans as well most likely, and a fuel pressure gauge is always helpful, as well as a wideband, i recommend the aem uego since it fits ina regualr pillar pod. Bkr7e ngk spark plugs, z32 fuel filter, definitely going to want a better clutch if you run more than 5 psi. I was slipping on a brand new oem one on 5psi, then when i went to 9 psi i went nowhere when boost kicked in. So keep that in mind as well.

[Razi]

Awesome reply thank you.Yes I was thinking about just going with a 8:1 fmu + stock injectors but had a difficult time finding once since the search engine doesn't like to keep my "8:1" keyword the way it is.

I don't want to get a tune as of yet, any idea which companies sell reliable 8:1 FMUs?

If I understand this correctly, I get a 8:1 FMU + a Nismo Adjustable FPR and I adjust the FPR as I see fit until the car runs well?

Already have electrical fans + Z32 fuel filter, and had the 2* timing + those colder NGK sparkplugs in mind. Also maybe a Spec clutch?

Thank you for an informative reply.

[neverlift]

the spec disc is fine, however IMHO the pp fails...

anyway, go to vortec, and get the super tuner rrfpr, it is fully adjustable form base pressure diff rates of increase that you tune to your needs, pretty bad ***, and still less than injectors and a tune. Although a standard 8:1 will work fine. A local guy ran 10psi on a t3 with an fmu and dynoed it upto 13 or 14 psi made nice power safely.... so going to a bigger turbo wotn be that bad till you want over 10psi daily, and you will

the only weak link after that is the pump is taking a beating, injectors are pretty tough but are seeing upwards of 100psi after 6psi or so...

WIDEBAND!

[Razi]

Does anyone know where I could find a reliable 8:1 FMU?

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Can someone tell me what you mean by fmu and 8:1?

FMU - Fuel Management Unit?

8:1 - air/fuel ratio?

[Razi]

Yes I believe it stands for Fuel Management Unit.And 8:1 means 8 psi increase towards the injectors for every 1 psi of boost.

Well OBS sells 8:1 FMUs but I heard they are crap, and Vortech ones are 180, maybe I should just save up for a ROM tune.

Edit: Would I need a boost controller for this setup? If I remember correctly the stock wastegate (which I still need to purchase) opens at 7 psi, so wouldn't my boost stay at 7 psi? Please excuse my ignorance.
Modified by Razi at 1:56 AM 11/1/2008

[neverlift]

a cheap ebay mbc is just fine or make one from mccastercar... google diy boost controller

a boost controller can raise boost and decrease spool time but may creat spikes.

jacksonville craigslist has a vortech fmu like 60bux IIRC. I see used vortech fmus all the time on ebay/cl... and you are correct it increases fuel pressure 8psi per psi of boost(or 1:1/3:1/6:1/10:1/12:1) stock pressure is 43psi so pressure is gonna be extreme with an 8:1 at ten pounds boost 123psi

[WDRacing]

FMU = Fuel Management Unit The 8:1 refers to the ratio of fuel pressure added for every 1 psi of boost. So in this case, it's 8psi of fuel pressure for every 1 psi of boost. Works great for a low boost setup as there is no need for any tuning. I recommend, like suggested already, a small retard in the base timing. This is done via distributor. Real easy and a proven setup.

Most T25's have a internal wastegate, usually set to 7-8 psi, so no, you don't need a boost controller. You don't need a BOV either for that matter, but it makes a cool noise and does help a little, but it's more for guys running a decent amount of boost. The reason I say you don't need one is that they almost always lead to stalling issues and or idle problems.

FMU + Base timing retard = reliable daily driver and years of fun.

No need for an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator either, the stock one will work fine, if anything it will run a tad rich because the 255lph pump puts out a buttload of volume. But the stock unit has been used for years. So upgrade if you want to, but make sure you get a reliable FPR and a good gauge to go with.

Vortech 8:1 FMU

WD

[AZ89two4Tsx]

^ Thanks WD that's a big help.

So, if I'm getting this right, if you have a good FMU and retard the timing a little, there's no need for any kind of rom tune or afc? Will this get the same kind of gas mileage as opposed to with a tune/afc? If it's really close, that's great news.

[abc123omg]

an FMU will run a little richer or a litter leaner since its really not a "true" tune, just insurance that you have enough fuel so you wont blow.

and on your list, you wont need a tune if youre going to run an FMU.and with stock t25 wastegate, you dont really need the gauges either..unless you really want to

[Razi]

KA-T section is godly.

So WD, just confirming to make sure I understood everything correctly.

I just run the stock wastegate, no need for boost controller, and if I have a BOV I might stall? I was planning to recirc it.

Also, just a 8:1 FMU + stock FPR + base timing retard and no need for tune correct?

Thank you everyone that contributed!!

[WDRacing]

KA-T section is godly.

So WD, just confirming to make sure I understood everything correctly.

I just run the stock wastegate, no need for boost controller, and if I have a BOV I might stall? I was planning to recirc it.

Also, just a 8:1 FMU + stock FPR + base timing retard and no need for tune correct?

Thank you everyone that contributed!!

Thats exactly correct.

[Razi]

Alright thank you.So the BOV would still cause a stall even when it's recirc'd?

[WDRacing]

Should be all good if it's recirc'd

[Razi]

Alright thanks for answering all of my questions.

I don't feel lost anymore

[AZ89two4Tsx]

And this is all on stock injectors right?

[WDRacing]

Yes

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Cool. My turbo kit is becoming less $! Not having to get injectors and a rom tune saves me at least $400. I'll probably be running an almost identical setup to Razi for my sil40. Thanks again WD, I'll probably getting alot of info from you in the near future.

Btw everyone, watch out, I get my permit in December!

[WDRacing]

Watch out for the cactus

[TK_Encore]

Should be all good if it's recirc'd

recirc'd = re-circled?

[AZ89two4Tsx]

^ Recirculated. Finally, one I do know.

^^ To WD, too late!!! Haha

[abc123omg]

hehe, funny thing was, i was asking the same exact question a few months ago... and now my ka-t is complete... just fixing a few dings (power window, tinting, little tings)

let us see ur setup when your done!

[Razi]

Yep! I will post back in KA-T if I have any other questions, the I will post my setup.

I'm also smoothing things out with my car, new mounts and better rotors, etc...

I think I need a way to ground things better though, or a bigger alternator, my idle drops to 600 when my e-fan kicks in.

[GTR PrYdE]

If you have to pull the motor for ANY reason, do the oil pump. Timing chain too if you can afford it... in the long run you'll be very very thankful you did.

[Razi]

Yep, I'll make sure to. What do you guys recommend that I do with the EGR tube? I must pass California SMOG crap, so I would imagine plugging up the tube would make it less likely to pass. I've seen people just block off the place where the tube comes from, I'm guessing by making their own plate to block it off?

I saw a post by WD, stating that using denatured alcohol in the gas tank would help pass inspection. So blocking off the EGR might not matter?

Also, the O2 sensor that is by the transmission is required, correct? I need to have a bung welded onto my downpipe for my car is run correctly, right?
Modified by Razi at 1:31 AM 11/5/2008

[Razi]

bump!

[1unar3clipse]

Yep, I'll make sure to. What do you guys recommend that I do with the EGR tube? I must pass California SMOG crap, so I would imagine plugging up the tube would make it less likely to pass. I've seen people just block off the place where the tube comes from, I'm guessing by making their own plate to block it off?

Remove and block up EGR ports, keep all OEM smog and exhaust components to swap back to stock come smog time?I've seen people Cut it, weld pennies into the bung's, and put a block off plate where the EGR used to sit.

The same oem plugs that fit the AIV bungs also fit the EGR bungs in case you didn't know... I can't remember the part # off the top of my head but slappy covered it IIRC.

I saw a post by WD, stating that using denatured alcohol in the gas tank would help pass inspection. So blocking off the EGR might not matter?

CA has visual inspection, and unless your in good with your smog techs they might notice the AIV/EGR removed (at least they noticed mine)BUT if your in good with your smog techs the denatured alcohol trick works wonders.

Also, the O2 sensor that is by the transmission is required, correct? I need to have a bung welded onto my downpipe for my car is run correctly, right?

the O2 sensor in your exhaust manifold?

[Razi]

Thanks for the good response!

The O2 sensors, isn't there one up on the manifold and one on the downpipe on the stock exhaust parts?

[spooled240]

Yep, I'll make sure to. What do you guys recommend that I do with the EGR tube? I must pass California SMOG crap, so I would imagine plugging up the tube would make it less likely to pass. I've seen people just block off the place where the tube comes from, I'm guessing by making their own plate to block it off?

I saw a post by WD, stating that using denatured alcohol in the gas tank would help pass inspection. So blocking off the EGR might not matter?

Also, the O2 sensor that is by the transmission is required, correct? I need to have a bung welded onto my downpipe for my car is run correctly, right?

Modified by Razi at 1:31 AM 11/5/2008

A ka-t will not pass visual at all, unless your engine looks bone stock. As far as the EGR, I just removed the vacuum lines from the intake manifold to the diaphram that opened the EGR valve and plugged the vacuum ports from the intake manifold.

All this is doing is keeping the EGR valve closed all the time because there is no vacuum to open it. Then all you have to do is hook up the vacuum lines to the EGR for it to work again. I try to keep a lot of the smog controls intact just in case a switch to N/A is needed for any reason

I too live in CA and I took ALL of my turbo parts off, converted it back to stock, passed smog, then converted back to ka-t within 2 weeks

Here's the thread if you wanna check it out:zerothread?id=300025

everything sounds good so far with the low boost and the fmu setup, i too was gonna go this route but I ended up getting a expensive *** tune (JWT, great mileage and runs awesome but not necessary for low boost)