I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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mastermindspr04
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx (DD) 1989 gutted only has engine (project)

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AZ89two4Tsx wrote:Make sure you get the mounting bolts that attach the calipers to the car. They are VERY specific and even NISSAN didn't have them because they were backordered.

J30 bolts will work for the Q45 calipers too btw. Idk about the z32.
try this site out it may help http://www.car-parts.com great site for salvage yards in the US


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PapaSmurf2k3
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Z32 calipers bolt right on... all you need is the conversion stainless lines, but seeing as how they are 4 piston calipers, they stick out quite farther than stock 240 brakes... I have to run a 5mm spacer for my wheels so they don't hit the calipers.

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mastermindspr04
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Z32 calipers bolt right on... all you need is the conversion stainless lines, but seeing as how they are 4 piston calipers, they stick out quite farther than stock 240 brakes... I have to run a 5mm spacer for my wheels so they don't hit the calipers.
Ok Thanks Papa also would you have to cut out the splash guards or cut them back a little?

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mastermindspr04
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Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx (DD) 1989 gutted only has engine (project)

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also would anyone know where I could find another vent that I have one my hood

here's the link of my car (Yeah I know I need better pic)http://carphotos.cardomain.com...e.jpg

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PyR0NiAk
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not a big fan of those... but i'm pretty sure jc whitney sells those...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mastermindspr04 wrote:
Ok Thanks Papa also would you have to cut out the splash guards or cut them back a little?
Oh yeah those dust guard thingies... I forgot about those. One of mine was completely rotted through anyway... I removed both of mine.

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DriftTwin86
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I live at an apartment and no one I know is willing to let me take my engine out at their place or is chargin me amounts of cash I don't have to take my engine out so I can remove my intake to get to my egr and remove it. It's a dual cam 240sx.

My question is, is there a way to remove the intake to get to the egr without removing my engine from the bay?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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..yeah, you don't need to pull the engine to pull the intake...

nor do you have to remove the intake to take out the EGR. In fact, in order to pull the intake, you usually have to pull the EGR first, or unbolt the EGR tube from the exhaust.

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gameboy02123
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Ok i am very new to any thing that is not a GM or MOPAR so a Nissan is all new to me. So I just picked up a 1989 240 Hatchback and i wanted to know if it is worth my time and money to fix it up. I am from michigan so there is rust all over the bottom the frame is rusted in some spots and the body has like one or to holes in it. So I wont be to sad if it is not worth my time cuz i only paid 200 for the car and it runs and drives. So what do u guys think.

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DriftTwin86
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:..yeah, you don't need to pull the engine to pull the intake...

nor do you have to remove the intake to take out the EGR. In fact, in order to pull the intake, you usually have to pull the EGR first, or unbolt the EGR tube from the exhaust.
Thank you very much, I kept getting told I had to remove my engine but my looking at it I didn't think I had to. Thank you again!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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gameboy02123 wrote:Ok i am very new to any thing that is not a GM or MOPAR so a Nissan is all new to me. So I just picked up a 1989 240 Hatchback and i wanted to know if it is worth my time and money to fix it up. I am from michigan so there is rust all over the bottom the frame is rusted in some spots and the body has like one or to holes in it. So I wont be to sad if it is not worth my time cuz i only paid 200 for the car and it runs and drives. So what do u guys think.
well... what does it need besides metal work? You could buy a welder and make it your project car.

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PyR0NiAk
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gameboy02123 wrote:Ok i am very new to any thing that is not a GM or MOPAR so a Nissan is all new to me. So I just picked up a 1989 240 Hatchback and i wanted to know if it is worth my time and money to fix it up. I am from michigan so there is rust all over the bottom the frame is rusted in some spots and the body has like one or to holes in it. So I wont be to sad if it is not worth my time cuz i only paid 200 for the car and it runs and drives. So what do u guys think.
I'm from Ohio so I know what you mean by rust. The frame itself is straight so welding in U-beams to solidify it really wouldn't be that hard. The problem is if it's already rotted out so bad that it's not really even supporting the car that well anymore. You'll also find it's going to be a b**** to work on with rusted nuts and bolts. Bolts breaking off inside of parts and things of that nature will get very frustrating. Maybe you could upload some pics of the rust to a photobucket account and we could give you better opinions??

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Dire91
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I got a couple of random questions that are probably easy to answer. 1.) I hear talk about LSD's, welded diffs etc... But what came stock on a 240sx?2.) In comparison how does a welded diff and w.e. a stock 240sx has affect the handling of the car?

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PyR0NiAk
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Dire91 wrote:I got a couple of random questions that are probably easy to answer. 1.) I hear talk about LSD's, welded diffs etc... But what came stock on a 240sx?2.) In comparison how does a welded diff and w.e. a stock 240sx has affect the handling of the car?
LSDs came stock on some 240s... To my understanding they came as a package deal with the anti-lock brakes. Welding a differential is the cheap alternative to an lsd but it's problem is during cornering, the inside tire HAS to break traction, so, in turn, they're noisy. A welded diff makes both tires spin at the exact same speed, whereas a LSD allows the inside tire to turn slower than the outside tire. Welded diffs are usually preferred for drag cars and drifting. I wouldn't recommend it on a daily considering it's an easy way for a cop to pull you over if he happens to be sitting somewhere near where you're turning with his windows down.

If you've ever driven in snow/ice I'm sure you've been in a car that has one tire spinning like crazy while the other one that should be grabbing traction and moving the car is just sitting there doing nothing. Or during a drag race, you go to heat up your tires and only one tire spins. This is what happens without an lsd.

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DriftTwin86
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Dire91 wrote:I got a couple of random questions that are probably easy to answer. 1.) I hear talk about LSD's, welded diffs etc... But what came stock on a 240sx?2.) In comparison how does a welded diff and w.e. a stock 240sx has affect the handling of the car?
Not to mention, a welded diff eats up your rear tires alot quicker since the rear end slides at times you don't want it to and makes both tires turn all the time like the guy above me stated.

If you're interested in an lsd I'd suggest goin with an s13 vlsd that should still have the stock gear ratio. Or you can go with a skyline diff, or infinity j30 or q45 diff which ever you end up perfering. The infinity has taller gear ratio but I'm not sure about the skyline. There is a webpage here on Nico about it that explains more into Lsds.

zerothread/168561

Or

http://www.ka24development.com/vlsd.html

I went with the J30 because I didn't hear about the s13 lsds till after I bought it. Now i can't get rid of it to buy one lol

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PyR0NiAk
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DriftTwin86 wrote:Not to mention, a welded diff eats up your rear tires alot quicker since the rear end slides at times you don't want it to and makes both tires turn all the time like the guy above me stated.

If you're interested in an lsd I'd suggest goin with an s13 vlsd that should still have the stock gear ratio. Or you can go with a skyline diff, or infinity j30 or q45 diff which ever you end up perfering. The infinity has taller gear ratio but I'm not sure about the skyline. There is a webpage here on Nico about it that explains more into Lsds.

zerothread/168561

nice to see a new guy that knows how to use the search function... also 240sxmotoring.com sells vlsds AND THEY ARE A NICO SPONSOR. Or

http://www.ka24development.com/vlsd.html

I went with the J30 because I didn't hear about the s13 lsds till after I bought it. Now i can't get rid of it to buy one lol

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gameboy02123
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Idk it dosent look to bad but its rusty. I well go out and take pics of it to give u guys a better clue on what it looks like.

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gameboy02123
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here r the pics of the bottom of the car. The top of the car is not that bad at all just the bottom.


Modified by gameboy02123 at 2:55 PM 7/20/2009

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mycocobean
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Owwwwwww that hurts.

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Dire91
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PyR0NiAk wrote:LSDs came stock on some 240s...
What about my 1997 SE?
PyR0NiAk wrote:Welding a differential is the cheap alternative to an lsd but it's problem is during cornering, the inside tire HAS to break traction, so, in turn, they're noisy. I wouldn't recommend it on a daily considering it's an easy way for a cop to pull you over if he happens to be sitting somewhere near where you're turning with his windows down.
Now the noise that would be coming from the welded diff would be different then tire squeal when taking a corner pretty fast?

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DriftTwin86
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Oh wow Gameboy! I've never seen a 240 in such shape as that. If you go through with it you'll be doing quite a bit of cutting, replacing metal, bondo work and all over restoration in my opinion.

I can see why you only paid 200 for it.

Thank you PyR0NiAk. I'll look into that site.

Dire if I remember correctly s14s did not come with stock lsds. I've only heard of some s13s having stock lsds, and to my knowledge they were only on s13s that had Hicas or Super Hicas. Though do not quote me on that I hadn't heard nor found any information that showed that about s14s, anyone who knows otherwise by all means correct me if I am wrong.

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gameboy02123
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lol i know that is Michigan for ya. I really dont want to get rid of it but i dont think i have the skills to fix all this stuff but the car runs and drive fine.

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PyR0NiAk
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Dire91 wrote:What about my 1997 SE?

Now the noise that would be coming from the welded diff would be different then tire squeal when taking a corner pretty fast?
It will be tire squeal.When turning, the outside tire takes a longer path than the inside tire, so the outside one has to travel faster. A welded differential forces everything to move at the same speed. So when turning, the inside tire will have to break traction to keep up with the outside tire. Make sense?

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PyR0NiAk
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Dire91 wrote:What about my 1997 SE?
Do a burnout. Then get out and check your black marks. If you have 2, you have an lsd. If you have one, you don't.

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PyR0NiAk
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gameboy02123 wrote:lol i know that is Michigan for ya. I really dont want to get rid of it but i dont think i have the skills to fix all this stuff but the car runs and drive fine.
I've driven cars in worse condition. ONLY AS A DAILY THOUGH. I would NEVER want to try and build a car with that much frame rot.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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gameboy02123 wrote:Idk it dosent look to bad but its rusty. I well go out and take pics of it to give u guys a better clue on what it looks like.
I'm no stranger to rust:zerothread?id=395424

zerothread?id=280618

Thought I had another thread with a step by step how to... but I guess not.

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gameboy02123
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
I'm no stranger to rust:zerothread?id=395424

zerothread?id=280618

Thought I had another thread with a step by step how to... but I guess not.
YAAAAA i have some one that knows the pain lol. Was it hard to get rid of all that rust. Also today i went out and bought some rust stuff and see if that stuff will help. I really hope it dose i have a lot i want to do to this car. I know it is going to be a long and hard journey but i think it well be well worth it in the end.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Buy a welder, a vise, a hammer, and some vise grips, and go to town. Putting "rust converter" on it does nothing. You have to cut it out, weld in fresh stuff, seal it up and paint over it.

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gameboy02123
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Buy a welder, a vise, a hammer, and some vise grips, and go to town. Putting "rust converter" on it does nothing. You have to cut it out, weld in fresh stuff, seal it up and paint over it.
well i guess i have every thing to get started lol. This is going to be fun.

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Dire91
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
It will be tire squeal.When turning, the outside tire takes a longer path than the inside tire, so the outside one has to travel faster. A welded differential forces everything to move at the same speed. So when turning, the inside tire will have to break traction to keep up with the outside tire. Make sense?
So the inside tire breaks traction because the outside tire is moving faster and the inside tire needs to keep up, correct? This is caused by either not having a LSD or a welded diff, correct? I think I'm getting this.


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