1) no clue. Id check in the RB forum for more answers.240sx_rb20det wrote:I have 2 questions1. What turbos are the best upgrade for the rb20det im currently looking at the gt2530, gt35r, and the gt3076r2. My car starts shaking at around 70 mph and I can't seem to find the problem
Intermittant problems are the worst. Are you positive you aren't getting fuel?aameaa wrote:1st time posting but have found all my info for previous trouble here w/ excellent results
1990 240sx w 190k mi. all stock no mods. owned for 4yrs. (have mantein. records for last 10yr)
BOTTOM LINE: i replaced the fuel pump relay (due to not starting), Now, there is a knocking under the head that doesn't let up (timing chain guide?)
I have been knocking my head against the wall w/ it not starting, now i have an entirely new problem! I need help connecting the dots!
Please please please help this damsel in distress!
Heres the run-down as best as i remember:
1st incident of bad behavior: 8mo ago on fwy idle dropped way down, gas pedal no response; clutch in and came back after 30 sec. this happened maybe 3 more times in 2mo. period)
2nd incident- 1 mo ago: car wouldn't start after driving 2 miles home, (20 min tops) (hot weather & parked on incline driveway for 3 days) Engine would crank, but not turn over.. checked ecu (shows fine 55 ) checked coil wires (visually), fuses good, pulled fp relay (looked fine) switched egi relay w/ eccs , back again. disconnected fp harness above fuel pump, lots of white lithium grease thru out, cleaned that up a bit, back together. car starts after 2 days.
3rd incident- runs like before for about 10 days. then same thing happens-not starting (symptoms same) i remove relays again disconnect harness, put back. smack gas tank little ..car starts runs as before ..(hmmmm scratch head...research...read..read..read) (ecu shows fine 55)
4th incident- runs for another week w no noticable changes- (then 1130 at night run into pizza joint and back in 3 min & parked on slight incline) no start! do all the things mentioned above..still no so next day she gets towed home into garage. test the relay terminals (the socket the actual plug goes into right?..the 'female' end thing that is stationary) w multimeter and 2 show 12v one nothing and one weak (like 2-3) (compare it to nextdoor terminal (shows 12 12 nothing and 12) so figure its the relay? so I put in new fp relay and starts up 1st time. but instantly is running rough.. .. turn off...on (3x maybe) leave it alone.Next day starts up and has loud rattle under head, its consistent after starting. no matter the idle, the rattling doesn't let up :-(
was just trying to diagnose the starting problem, thought I had it figured out with the relay when it started right up, but NO, now i have my hands full! Im convinced they are related somehow, but I cannot connect the dots. I've read the knocking noise is most likely timing chain guide but why now that ive put in a new relay? is my car is mad at the new boyfriend? (im only driving his car because you're acting up honey, i swear...) "its not you, its me"....... actually it is you.
thanks a ton for any input/help/advice anyone can give me!
Modified by aameaa at 10:53 PM 7/13/2009
Modified by aameaa at 11:03 PM 7/13/2009
All you should need to do is purchase the led bulbs, and just switch them with the stock lights. I did this like a week ago and everything is working fine, the led's are way brighter. If you want to know how to take the dash apart to get to the bulbs, it's simple. If you need help i can go in more detail.240pr06 wrote:hows it goingdoes anyone know of an how to on changing the cluster bulbs to leds?? thanks for any help
Why didn't you just go ahead and include it? Drop the steering column and remove the bolts holding the gauge cluster. Unplug plugs from gauge cluster. Self explanatory after that.SpecD_240sx wrote:
All you should need to do is purchase the led bulbs, and just switch them with the stock lights. I did this like a week ago and everything is working fine, the led's are way brighter. If you want to know how to take the dash apart to get to the bulbs, it's simple. If you need help i can go in more detail.
Like Pyroniak said if you have patients I managed to change mines to blue LED and didn't have to drop the steering column.PyR0NiAk wrote:
Why didn't you just go ahead and include it? Drop the steering column and remove the bolts holding the gauge cluster. Unplug plugs from gauge cluster. Self explanatory after that.
Z32 TT diffs have a taller gear ratio than our 240 diffs, but a Z32NA diff is about the same. So if you get the one with the taller gear ratio, yes, it will slow your 1/4 time.mastermindspr04 wrote:
Like Pyroniak said if you have patients I managed to change mines to blue LED and didn't have to drop the steering column.
Well anyone knows if having a z32 diff would slow your 1/4 mile time on a ka24e ?
yeah I think the upper radiator hose goes to the middle of the radiator instead of one of the ends or something.AZ89two4Tsx wrote:What is the difference between an aftermarket KA and SR radiator? Just the location of the ports I'm assuming?
ok I was once told that the Z32NA had slower acceleration but greater top speed when its put in a 240 and was just double checkingPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Z32 TT diffs have a taller gear ratio than our 240 diffs, but a Z32NA diff is about the same. So if you get the one with the taller gear ratio, yes, it will slow your 1/4 time.
Yeah, whoever told you that had it backwards... the TT has the gears for higher top end, but slower acceleration, but because the TT has so much more power than the NA, it can overcome the difference in gear ratios, and is actually much faster all around.mastermindspr04 wrote:
ok I was once told that the Z32NA had slower acceleration but greater top speed when its put in a 240 and was just double checking
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Good question. I'd probably just put it up on a lift and look at all your bushings/ball joints and sway bar end links.
??alfsnissan wrote:
Ball joints in the rears look fine, rubber is still looking good. What bushing should I look at first? Now, for the end link, there are only the ones in the front, right. How would that cause the noice in the rear? How do I know if I have a bad or going bad diff? Thanks.
Go to photobucket.com Make an account and upload your pitures to the site. You can put marks or what have you in paint before you upload. You'll be able to resize and do all sorts of things to the pictures on photobucket also. Then the site will give you a url code and an img code and I think one more. Just copy the IMG code and paste it into a post on here and that should take care of it. Hopefully I was correct on all that.MikeyKaVert wrote:Hey can anyone help me with posting pictures? i have a few questions about my 92 240Vert and people would be able to help me way more if i could inclde pictures. do i have to add them from a site, like myspace, or can i just get them from "my computer"? (which im hoping i can get them from "my computer")-thanks
stupid...MikeyKaVert wrote:No, it does not still have the kit on it. i got the piggy front and the OEM rear. as of now the transmission, exhaust, and driveshaft are dropped cause im changing my clutch out for a stage 2. oh and give me some opinions on my exhaust...does it look stupid or should i leave it alone?
Nope, 2 completely different engine families.240sx_rb20det wrote:Oh alright thank you I always thought the sr parts could fit in the rb