I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Most stock 240s have an open diff... so the power just goes to whichever wheel will spin easier... leading to 1 legged burnouts, but it has no problem in turns.

Some 240s (240s with HICAS and anti-lock brakes) came with viscous limited slip differentials. This allows SOME difference in the speed between the 2 drive wheels, but only so much. This allows you to turn crisply, and also accelerate well because you have traction for both wheels (instead of sending all the power to 1 wheel, and burning tire).

Then you have your locked differentials. Detroit lockers, welded diffs, and even some hardcore 2 way LSDs will NOT let the wheels spin at rates different enough to allow for smooth cornering. Lockers and welded diffs are made to have both wheels spin at the same rate, no matter what. This is used for drifting (easier to initiate wheel spin), and drag racing (so the car will track straight).

Get it?

You just basically have to understand that the outside wheel of the car in a turn spins faster than the inside wheel... its a basic physics principle (Vt=wr meaning tangential velocity is the sum of angular velocity times the radius of the circle). Seeing as how one wheel is closer to the inside of the turning circle, the tangential velocity will be lower than that of the outside wheel (because your angular velocity AKA RPM stays the same).


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Dire91
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Alright now I get it, thank you.

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mastermindspr04
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Thank everyone for bringing up the differential topic and the links I've been searching for that info for a while and couldn't get info on the output shaft. SO I looked at my output shaft this morning and noticed I have a 5 star flange most likely a j30 differential or a 300z TT (hope not). Would that explain why I wouldn't get into 4 gear in the quarter miles and had times in mid 16's with ok launches? By some chance it's a 300z TT diff would turbo balance out the issue. I bought this car with the diff conversion like this.

Modified by mastermindspr04 at 5:07 AM 7/21/2009
Modified by mastermindspr04 at 5:08 AM 7/21/2009

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PapaSmurf2k3
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spin your driveshaft 1 full rotation and have someone count how many rotations your wheel makes... that will tell you your gear ratio. If its 3 and change then yeah, it might be why you are kinda slow. If its juuuust slightly over 4, then you have a stock gear ratio.

IKGamex
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Hey guys, I got one that's extremely dumb. Could someone take a picture of a ka24e and point out the location of the idle adjustment screw and TPS?

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DriftTwin86
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IKGamex wrote:Hey guys, I got one that's extremely dumb. Could someone take a picture of a ka24e and point out the location of the idle adjustment screw and TPS?
Nico has a write up about it for the dual cams. Here is said thread. Thank you come again.

zerothread/254123

I do hope this helps, it seemed somewhat difficult for me to find one on the single, searched the web and ones I found didn't seem of much help.
Modified by DriftTwin86 at 7:59 AM 7/23/2009

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DriftTwin86
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Note: This is on a 93 dual cam 240. Ive searched to high heaven and gotten so many different answers none ever the same. Sorry if this is long, I figured I'd get it all out instead of stretchin it on over time.

I can get in my car for the very first time of the day or if it's cool outside at night she will drive like there is no tomorrow. But when you turn her off, get out of her, then get back in, and start her up she has a loss of power. She kind of sputters and rolls off very slow even when the Rpms are going up she just gets up to speed very slowly and she seems to always back fire when I change gears, I use to blame it off on my rustyness at the clutch but I don't think thats a problem anymore. If you go to the engine bay and rev her slowly she'll rev up great, she'll have no issue. If you try to do it quickly she'll bog and sputter then end up back firing through the intake and out the air filter, if you sit in the car and try to rev like some idoit who wants to race then she sputters then too. I had a friend come over and manually open my butterfly valves and I didn't have my intake backfiring or sputterin problem.

I would like your opinions on this as to if removing my emissions will help my car, seeing as how the hoses for it are most likely deteroiated on the vaccum and not letting the butterfly valves open like they should is mine and a few friends guesses as to why it was havin the intake backfirin and sputterin problem. Do you agree? Will riddin my 240 of my emissions like the write here on nico says help me any? What is your suggestions as to why my car has its loss of HP after it warms up? Do you think once I get rid of my vaccum line for the emissions my car will run normal with no loss in power?

Here is a list of things I've already replaced. Note: I have already seafoamed my intake twice, and very little smoke came out at all.

Things replaced: Plugs, plug wires, Ignition Coil, O2 sensor, tempature coolant sensor (old one was busted), Dizz cap, plastic piece underneath dizzy cap. Fuel filter and pump, dumped tank cleaned it, replaced fuel pump filter, fuel hoses, maf.

Now I recently found out I have no cat...yeah seriously no cat at all, it just goes exhaust mani, long pipe, and finally exhaust. You'd think this would be loud as crap but it's not. Any suggestions on this? I don't mind it not being loud but I don't want it messin with my engine and not givin me enough back pressure. And a friend suggested this could be because the engine is full of carbon build up. What do you think?

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OutToWinPAHC
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Injector(s). Backfiring with the no cat can be normal, but the hard start sounds like a leaky injector thats causing fuel pooling in the CC. Remove thr rail, clean it up, and try replacing the O rings first. If you do replace the injectors beware of the aftermarket ones.

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justinedible4
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I'm fixing to change the oil in my s13 that i just bought and I was wondering what the best viscosity oil to use? My dad has always used Pennzoil HD-30W and thats what we have used in my previous car but I was just wondering what you guys thought.Thanks in advance

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Only what the owners manual says. They engineering bearing clearances and recommend oil specific to those clearances.

As far as oil, we all have our preferences, but I say use a known brand syntheic like castrol, Mobile 1, Pennsoil, Quakerstate. Just no cheap stuff.

If money is tight GTX isn't bad.

ice_man152
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hey guys, i made a post on here but not really gettin much response on it. it was in the tech part of the forum, figured id ask on here. I just gottta wiring ?

Gotta 89 sohc put into a 91 but i think the 91 had a dohc, used sohc engine harness, but the harness in the 91 was already in so we just plugged into it. My question is that i have two gauge clusters from my 89 (long story...bought it off of a redneck who put CDM cluster thats in khm in it and kept the usdm one)

ANyways.. I plug the cluster in and my clock works, and the high beams light works n thats it. i put 20 bucks of gas in it the other day n after half hr of driving the gauge barely moved so i dunno if its gonna work either. But speedo, tach, oil n temp dont work at all. THe little two foot harness going from the cluster to the main harness that u can interchange, i have two of em and tried em both but neither did nething different. JUstt needing put in the right direction :-/ love my car to death but this is killing me.

Also another stupid problem is that i think my fuel injector clips have dry rotted wires lol i touch n injector and it runs on three cyls and sounds like a F-ing subaru... is that just the wires or could it be somethin related? ive done bout all i know to do. New with my 240 been working on dsm's for bout four years.

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OutToWinPAHC
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ice_man152 wrote:hey guys, i made a post on here but not really gettin much response on it. it was in the tech part of the forum, figured id ask on here. I just gottta wiring ?

Gotta 89 sohc put into a 91 but i think the 91 had a dohc, used sohc engine harness, but the harness in the 91 was already in so we just plugged into it. My question is that i have two gauge clusters from my 89 (long story...bought it off of a redneck who put CDM cluster thats in khm in it and kept the usdm one)

ANyways.. I plug the cluster in and my clock works, and the high beams light works n thats it. i put 20 bucks of gas in it the other day n after half hr of driving the gauge barely moved so i dunno if its gonna work either. But speedo, tach, oil n temp dont work at all. THe little two foot harness going from the cluster to the main harness that u can interchange, i have two of em and tried em both but neither did nething different. JUstt needing put in the right direction :-/ love my car to death but this is killing me.

Also another stupid problem is that i think my fuel injector clips have dry rotted wires lol i touch n injector and it runs on three cyls and sounds like a F-ing subaru... is that just the wires or could it be somethin related? ive done bout all i know to do. New with my 240 been working on dsm's for bout four years.
Sounds like you have corrosion on the injector connectors. Get some CRC quick dry contact cleaner and a wire bush, clean up the connections and see if it helps. As far as the cluster, I haven't messed with them

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DriftTwin86
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:Injector(s). Backfiring with the no cat can be normal, but the hard start sounds like a leaky injector thats causing fuel pooling in the CC. Remove thr rail, clean it up, and try replacing the O rings first. If you do replace the injectors beware of the aftermarket ones.
Sorry I left out I replaced my injectors and had my fuel rail cleaned also and new O rings. But I don't have a hard starting issue, I just have a loss of power after the first drive of the day and a light boggin down and sputterin issue when drivin off in 1st gear. Backfiring from the intake with no cat is normal? Or are you sayin back firing from the exhaust with no cat is normal, I'd assume from the exhaust is kinda normal, but mine back fires from the intake which I don't find normal, I can recreate this intake backfire easily and when my butterfly valves are opened manually it no longer does this. So would removing my emissions which contains the butterfly valves completely fix this problem, and do you think it'd give me back my power that I loss once the 240 has warmed up?

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Oh its an intake backfire. Sounds like you need to find TDC and re-time her, don drive it if it keeps backfiring thought the intake, its gonna damage things like intake temp sensor, IAC, and the MAF.

Were the cams pulled at all?

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DriftTwin86
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ice_man152 wrote:hey guys, i made a post on here but not really gettin much response on it. it was in the tech part of the forum, figured id ask on here. I just gottta wiring ?

Gotta 89 sohc put into a 91 but i think the 91 had a dohc, used sohc engine harness, but the harness in the 91 was already in so we just plugged into it. My question is that i have two gauge clusters from my 89 (long story...bought it off of a redneck who put CDM cluster thats in khm in it and kept the usdm one)

ANyways.. I plug the cluster in and my clock works, and the high beams light works n thats it. i put 20 bucks of gas in it the other day n after half hr of driving the gauge barely moved so i dunno if its gonna work either. But speedo, tach, oil n temp dont work at all. THe little two foot harness going from the cluster to the main harness that u can interchange, i have two of em and tried em both but neither did nething different. JUstt needing put in the right direction :-/ love my car to death but this is killing me.

Also another stupid problem is that i think my fuel injector clips have dry rotted wires lol i touch n injector and it runs on three cyls and sounds like a F-ing subaru... is that just the wires or could it be somethin related? ive done bout all i know to do. New with my 240 been working on dsm's for bout four years.
You should most likely make sure every harness on the 240 is a single cam harness, if you are running a single cam. If you know each harness is a single then it could be a faulty cluster or just bad connecter or connection on the plug ins, you'll see on the back of the cluster a blue cover with copper in it, look over it all and look for any broken areas. My coupe had two completely broken through and i had to soder replacements in. Make sure your gauge cluster is a single cam cluster as well, you can tell this by the top speed being 115 and not 110. OR WORST CASE SCENARIO, you unwrap your entire wiring harness and check for broken wires

This is just my two cents, I've never messed with a single, I'm a dual man myself.

If we can't help you try the search function on here and google, or other 240 sites, there is normally someone who can help somewhere where others can not.

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DriftTwin86
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OutToWinPAHC wrote:Oh its an intake backfire. Sounds like you need to find TDC and re-time her, don drive it if it keeps backfiring thought the intake, its gonna damage things like intake temp sensor, IAC, and the MAF.

Were the cams pulled at all?
No idea, I bought the car 3 years ago and it was being parted out, so as i think about it now it most likely could have been cause why would anyone part out a perfectly good car if it ran unless they were having issues with it? Right?

Retime? From the distributor or am I going to have to go more indepth with it?

ice_man152
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see i had both clusters working in my 89 sohc and i took em out, set em on a shelf n then put em in the new car. yea i like dohc better too but i got a sohc for cheap n its good enough for now. ok basically i took everything outta my 89 and put into a rolling shell. motor, trans, engine harness and my friend is the one who plugged it in, he has a 240 also. but he said that the engine harness plugged into the harness inside the car. vin plate says my 91 is a dohc car so is the interior harness on a dohc diff than a sohc? REAAAALLY appreciate the help though guys

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DriftTwin86
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ice_man152 wrote:see i had both clusters working in my 89 sohc and i took em out, set em on a shelf n then put em in the new car. yea i like dohc better too but i got a sohc for cheap n its good enough for now. ok basically i took everything outta my 89 and put into a rolling shell. motor, trans, engine harness and my friend is the one who plugged it in, he has a 240 also. but he said that the engine harness plugged into the harness inside the car. vin plate says my 91 is a dohc car so is the interior harness on a dohc diff than a sohc? REAAAALLY appreciate the help though guys
Have him double check his work just to make sure, uh I have no idea if the interior harness is different on a single or if its the same as a dual. I wanna say its different cause nissan made changes when they changed engines and with the 240s each year.

The best help I can give you on this is to go to courtesynissanparts.com you will see on the left the list of nissan vechiles, click the 89-94 240 and then clock genuine parts, and start searchin for the harnesses it will show you first diagrams of both the single will be shown on top and as you scroll down it will show the dual.

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Any difficulty in pulling the stater out of an s13? I have to pull mine tomorrow.

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Well, nevermind. I pulled it today. It was pretty simple. I could see the top bolt being hard to get off if you don't have the right tools though.

rb25det250sx
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
Do a burnout. Then get out and check your black marks. If you have 2, you have an lsd. If you have one, you don't.
^^^lol thats funny. sometimes i spin 2 and sometimes i only spin 1.

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JoseBronx
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another noob needing help,...

1st off big thanks too everyone taking time to answer question in this thread.

I have a single cam that is giving me trouble so instead of even dealing with that Im just going to get a twin cam and plan to swap it in my pignose. I found a twin cam for $200 with 165K + miles on it. Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for when I go check it out tomorrow?

The guy said that it has just been sitting there because the previous owner abandon it. Its in a garage so they said theyll take it out the car.

Me being a noob I think it sound too good to be true but Im not too sure.

My question is should I go take a look at it or not waste my time. 165K+ miles on it. Engine and transmission for $200

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PyR0NiAk
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JoseBronx wrote:another noob needing help,...

1st off big thanks too everyone taking time to answer question in this thread.

I have a single cam that is giving me trouble so instead of even dealing with that Im just going to get a twin cam and plan to swap it in my pignose. I found a twin cam for $200 with 165K + miles on it. Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for when I go check it out tomorrow?

The guy said that it has just been sitting there because the previous owner abandon it. Its in a garage so they said theyll take it out the car.

Me being a noob I think it sound too good to be true but Im not too sure.

My question is should I go take a look at it or not waste my time. 165K+ miles on it. Engine and transmission for $200
I've seen 5 spd trannies go for $200... so if it's a 5 spd.. it's def worth it for parts if nothing else... 165k+ it's looking at needing a rebuild though... You'll also need the computer and wiring harness to install it...

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Take someone knowledgeable and that knows what they're doing so you don't get ripped off.


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JoseBronx
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thanks guys, Im taking a friend whos a mechanic to go check out the car

another question can someone point me to a thread or can tell me how much in total would go into the rebuild and swap. I see the swap thread but no rebuild one.

Thanks

azndragon669
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I am about to do the 5 lug swap and i am wondering for the front i am about to get the ichiba 5 lug hub and is that all i need to do the swap for the front? Also the rear i got the z32 e-brake and z32 non turbo hubs. Is that all i need for the rear?

Oh and this is for a S13 coupe

azndragon669
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Also which e-brake cable should i use for the 300zx rear e-brake? This is for a S13 coupe

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mycocobean
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http://montreal.kijiji.ca/c-ca...66560

Yes/no?

I know not to buy other people's projects but still.

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PyR0NiAk
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eh... buying a car someone has already built kind of kills the fun in it for me...

rootS13
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Im 90 percent done through my swap.. just working on some troubleshooting...

Which is the correct MAF to use when putting a 98 Dohc into a 90 chasis?Is it an S13 dohc maf, a S13 sohc maf or a S14 dohc maf?


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