I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[Dmct90]

Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.

[AZ89two4Tsx]

No problem sir!

[omigulay]

can someone help me with the thread of car and driver and motor trend review of the 240?? ive seen it b4 but can't find it now...only found roadandtrack review...

[Gnarboy240]

another noob here. i bought a 89 hatch that was a auto but had the 5 speed conversion done and wired up but the guy i bought it from said everything worked but someone broke in and stole his head unit and then the gauges quit working. the fuel gage, speedo, tach, and temp gauge dont work. the temp gauge has power to the back of the gauge panaland i think the sendin unit is bad but i cant get anything else to do anything. ramdomly the rpms freak out and spasticly moves but the speedo doesnt ever work. the speed and rpm thing is in the side of the transmission and is plugged in and the wires disappear under the fuse box by the battery and into the harness. the auto mph thing is still wired in and a big gray metal thing with a black lever wich i think sent the auto into gear and some wires which most likly went to all the sensors. i cant figure this out and if anyone has had this happen or any ideas what i can do i greatly need it. thanks

[sr_240]

This may be a bit of a noob question but I've searched and couldn't find the specific answer. I have a s13 w/o abs, I want to do a j30/q45 brake swap, so does that mean I have to I have abs? can I just get use the j30/q45 brakes w/o abs? are abs brake lines different from non-abs lines?

[PyR0NiAk]

another noob here. i bought a 89 hatch that was a auto but had the 5 speed conversion done and wired up but the guy i bought it from said everything worked but someone broke in and stole his head unit and then the gauges quit working. the fuel gage, speedo, tach, and temp gauge dont work. the temp gauge has power to the back of the gauge panaland i think the sendin unit is bad but i cant get anything else to do anything. ramdomly the rpms freak out and spasticly moves but the speedo doesnt ever work. the speed and rpm thing is in the side of the transmission and is plugged in and the wires disappear under the fuse box by the battery and into the harness. the auto mph thing is still wired in and a big gray metal thing with a black lever wich i think sent the auto into gear and some wires which most likly went to all the sensors. i cant figure this out and if anyone has had this happen or any ideas what i can do i greatly need it. thanks

sounds to me like you purchased one hell of a headache... You may want to post an actual topic for this to gain some more attention.. This definitely rates it's own.. This section is mostly for questions from inexperience, not necessarily because of previous owners' stupidity. Either way, best of luck to you. I hope someone is able to assist you or at least figure it out. In all honesty, unless you're a wiring guru, you may want to have a shop look at it.

[PyR0NiAk]

I have a question if you don't mind PapaSmurf2k3 how much did it cost you to set up KA-T and did you have a shop do it or you did it yourself? Trying to get an idea of my project. Been talking with some people that did almost full package on they're 240 putting like over 20k and still ran like crap barely lasted a week for drifting.

If someone dumped 20k into a car and couldn't make it last a week, they're an idiot. Most people argue that you can build a mild powered ka-t for the same price it costs to drop in an sr swap. I'd estimate it to be anywhere between 3k and 6k.

[Ethien161]

I am here but i have a question which is how do you keep tabs on a topic that you want to be alerted when someone puts an entry in

[AZ89two4Tsx]

You subscribe to the thread. There should be a button somewhere.

[ViciousCesar]

I am here but i have a question which is how do you keep tabs on a topic that you want to be alerted when someone puts an entry in

to subscribe:click 'subscribe' in upper right of thread or post a reply and check 'watch this topic'

to check subscribed threads:click 'user profile' in upper left. then, go to 'watched topics'.

enjoi

[mastermindspr04]

If someone dumped 20k into a car and couldn't make it last a week, they're an idiot. Most people argue that you can build a mild powered ka-t for the same price it costs to drop in an sr swap. I'd estimate it to be anywhere between 3k and 6k.

The say said he ended up springing a bad only leak he's car started running rough after he only did practice runs for a drift competition and couldn't even run it in the meet because of the problem he had.

I figure 3k to 6K for a total rebuild and boost if you do everything yourself (except for the head work and other work that requires boring ect and you get a turbo kit from http://www.cxracing.com may run you around 3K). That seem right for ya estimate. I've found SR20 with transmission go for a low as 1300 but you don't even know how bad the internals are and may require a rebuild anyway.

[PyR0NiAk]

Leaks happen with any car.. They're machines. Machines leak. Find the reason for the leak and fix it. I fly on C-130s but we have a CH-53 squadron beside us. If they're not leaking, the maintainers start worrying if it's out of said fluid that would normally be leaking.

[mastermindspr04]

Yeah I understand I always check and recheck my 240 to make sure everything is working properly before I do anything that I know is going to put stress on the car.

[rockstar57005]

I am new to the boards but have been stalking them for quite a while. I recently purchased a 1992 240sx LE from a friend in Las Vegas and have a couple of help me out kinda questions.

Does Anyone know a source to get parts from canada, I took out the auto seat belts and would really like to have the correct pieces to finish the job, I need the plastics for above the doors, and the rear piece that has the cutout for the seatbelt.

My second question is about swaps, I was going to do a sr20det, but a very reputable tuner in my area is willing to help me do a 5.3 from a chevy silverado into the car mainly based on price, I can get one around here for like 800 dollars, just thought I would get your guys opinion.

Thanks,

[240pr06]

hows it goingwill the key and lock from my stock 240sx taillights work on the 180sx kouki tails???

[SpecD_240sx]

So took apart my dash today to change the lights, and found this connection that wasn't connected. The car runs just fine, but i still would like to know what this is for. I'll probably just leave it disconnected, but just wanna know what it's for. Here's some pictures.





Also, i'm trying to get to Superior Nissan Motorsports website, but can't seem to find it. I read on a different thread that there site is down but does anyone know of a temporary site they have for now? tia


Modified by SpecD_240sx at 1:40 PM 8/9/2009

[PyR0NiAk]

no clue... i bought my car with a blown motor and i just now got my sr into it... haven't started it yet, but that plug was hanging out in my dash too....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Pretty sure that is the data link connector. Also known as Consult port.

[bman49]

I'm wanting to build a car that I can track, but also use on the streets. I was looking at different seat options and I came across a post that said that it was a bad idea to run a 4 or 5 point harness with only a harness bar because if you crash and roll over it will break your spine. Is this true? I always thought as long as you have a harness bar you're ok.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I think the idea is that if you are involved in a horrific crash (rollover) that the harness will hold you too securely, so if the roof collapses in on your head, there is no way for you to move out of its way, and you will be crushed.

[SpecD_240sx]

thanks for the help

[240pr06]

hows it goingwill the key and lock from my 240sx taillights work on the 180sx kouki taillights??thanks for any help

[PapaSmurf2k3]

As long as you don't change out the lock cylinder... I don't see why not.

[joker350gt]

im looking to build up a vert with an RB26 pushing around 350 hp for now but my question is

how much can the stock engine handle if it was going to be a DD? I figured at most i would need to swap out injectors and a tune along with the regular bolt ons (FMIC,downpipe, Exhuast)

Also before i swap in the engine i plan on doing an over haul of all the gaskets (head/turbo) n1 oil and water, nismo thermo, all the belts and pulleys.

Would that be enoungh to ensure a reliable DD for a while?

I guess for the price that the rb is going to cost me i COULD go Built SR i want bragging rights since i am in nebraska lol

Sorry for the noobessness but im New to RBs

[rzerob]

joker350gt RB's are known for their crank collar issues. So if you have the crank collar bored out you are going to need balance your crank. I was considering doing the RB at one point and the best way that I have seen to make an RB reliable is to do a full build top to bottom. But that is major $$$. As far as I know the R34 RB26DETT doesn't have the crank collar issue so you could go straight with that but they are the ones with the VVT which are even more expensive.

And the crank collar isn't the only thing you have to worry about (oil sump/ pan...) and the replacement parts for it are hard as hell to find and so expensive for simple things like the alternator. I was a couple of days from ordering my RB and talked to an aquantence who has done RB swaps before at his shop. And told him my plans and how much I had for my build and it was a lost cause.

I had 8k saved and I figured I would need another 5K if I cut out some of the none esentials that I wanted. That is a lot of money for a motor that is twin turbo and 700 plus pounds. And those prices I am throwing out there are prices if I did it myself with some free help. So I would really do my research before you seriously considered doing this swap. And you better have deep pockets or some serious sponsors because your money will not last long at all.

Your goal of 350hp is easily attainable with a KAT or SR. And the KAT or SR swap is alot cheaper. For as much as it would cost you to just get the RB ins your car and running you could fully bullet proof(it is a peice of machinery with moving parts so it will break one day)build a KAt or SR that would smoke a stock RB. My advice is do more research and go to the RB forums.

And before any body flames me to death the prices are what I personally came to, I am not saying that you can't build a reliable one for cheaper but you can't cut corners to much because it will sacrifice you build. And I know I can't spell so cease and desist with the spelling nazi's.

[joker350gt]

hey razerbro, thanx man ill look into that i figure i could always get then engine first and start a slow rebuild from top to bottom but my only concern is time not really the money but i'd like to get the car up an running to get some summer runs in so in winter its cosmetic work i can focus on and or more engine work

[joker350gt]

o s*** just relise im not even in the RB forum

[SR2ach]

Ok quick question, and I would LOVE to see if anyone could gather what is going on.

I have a ka24e, and all I am doing is replacing the Clutch.-transmission off-Drive shaft off-Pressure plate/Old Clutch/Flywheel/Throwout Baring OFF-I go to put in the Pilot Bearing removal tool, it takes that out, which is in several pieces and you could tell it had to be changed (durrr)

NOW, here is the issue, my new pilot baring should just go right in, with just a few good whacks without making the baring 'mushroom' in the hole.Now, what I ran into is, the baring with my clutch kit did not go in (great).So got another from Checkers, and brought the old ones to compare, all looked fine...oh wait, STILL WILL NOT FIT.And with these barings I do not mean "Oh your not hitting it hard enough" I mean like, it peels back a good chunk of the damn baring and it is measured so that there is NO WAY in hell it was ment to go in there.

All else failed, went to a garage that specialized in these kinda cars, have them order me a baring...STILL, no go.Finally measure the inside of the hole with a micrometer.The outside Diameter of the baring is .815the hole on the where my pilot baring should fit... is .779

WHAT IS GOING ON WITH MY KA24E?!Why must I have the only problem child in the Single Cam Clan lol, honestly someone give me some insight.Was it possible that this part was sourced from another engine? and somehow keeps the Ka24e still running fine with no problems till now?!idk just doesn't add up, it is way off.

If you could give me some insight as to wtf is going on, I will forever be in debt lol

thank you

[SD Nismo]

quick question.......... as i was searching for "5lug conversion" threads............ i wondered why there is no 5 lug conversion sticky on the top of the forum page with someone who knows exactly what is needed listing off the parts needed?

all these new people asking "what do i need for 5 lug conversion" and making new threads about it with people responding "there's a billion of these threads, use search" has rendered a billion of useless threads in the search.

so i ask...... can someone please make a good sticky with this info so people like myself dont have to make another useless thread like all te other ones ive run into?

sorry...... end rant.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Ok quick question, and I would LOVE to see if anyone could gather what is going on.

I have a ka24e, and all I am doing is replacing the Clutch.-transmission off-Drive shaft off-Pressure plate/Old Clutch/Flywheel/Throwout Baring OFF-I go to put in the Pilot Bearing removal tool, it takes that out, which is in several pieces and you could tell it had to be changed (durrr)

NOW, here is the issue, my new pilot baring should just go right in, with just a few good whacks without making the baring 'mushroom' in the hole.Now, what I ran into is, the baring with my clutch kit did not go in (great).So got another from Checkers, and brought the old ones to compare, all looked fine...oh wait, STILL WILL NOT FIT.And with these barings I do not mean "Oh your not hitting it hard enough" I mean like, it peels back a good chunk of the damn baring and it is measured so that there is NO WAY in hell it was ment to go in there.

All else failed, went to a garage that specialized in these kinda cars, have them order me a baring...STILL, no go.Finally measure the inside of the hole with a micrometer.The outside Diameter of the baring is .815the hole on the where my pilot baring should fit... is .779

WHAT IS GOING ON WITH MY KA24E?!Why must I have the only problem child in the Single Cam Clan lol, honestly someone give me some insight.Was it possible that this part was sourced from another engine? and somehow keeps the Ka24e still running fine with no problems till now?!idk just doesn't add up, it is way off.

If you could give me some insight as to wtf is going on, I will forever be in debt lol

thank you

Maybe you are hitting it wrong? Are you just slamming it with a hammer? I think I used a hammer and a block of wood so I wouldn't mess up the bearing.