anyone??PyR0NiAk wrote:My turn for a newb question. If you turn up your boost on an SR do you need to have your ecu re-tuned? I was just wondering if it would be safe to take my SR and turn it up to 10 lbs or would it cause issues?
you might be able to get away with a lb or so, but I'd get a re-tune or add some octane booster or something... I'm not 100% sure though, you might want to try asking in the SR forum.PyR0NiAk wrote:
anyone??
I'm pretty sure there is a thread dedicated to that (all 240's), but here is your basic breakdown for what you are asking about89-90 240: has KA24E (single overhead cam), also called "pignose".91-94 240 (INCLUDING 91!!): Has KA24DE (dual overhead cam). 94 model offered ONLY in convertible, and convertibles ONLY came with automatics. If you find one with a 5 speed, its been swapped in.1993240sxbuilder wrote:Okay, i recently got my license. I don't have a car yet but i'm looking. I know i want an s13 but i'm not sure about specs. I'm almost sure that there are 2 different engines in the s13s. The ka24e and the ka24de. Correct me if I'm wrong. I believe the de starts after 91. I definitely want the de because of the wider power curve. I plan on building a drift car so any advice on different trims and years would be great. Thanks
LOL Thanks. It went from the engine bay to the hoist, and straight to the metal scrap bin. The engine was pretty horrible. Someone didn't think it was necessary to dilute their antifreeze, and also thought that 1 tire burnouts were cool.Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:PyR0NiAk your sig is hilarious lol i hope my 24e doesnt conk out on me 4 laughin at that.
help please!justinedible4 wrote:Hello once again. 1) What is the difference between a hicas rear subframe and a non-hicas rear subframe? I know the hicas is on one but not the other but what are the other differences?2) Would it be worth the time and effort to swap a hicas s13 rear subframe with a non-hicas s13 rear subframe? Or it would be better to just buy the hicas eliminator kit from say tomei for $170?3) If anyone knows of anyone that has done a write-up for either of these processes then that would be greatly appreciated.Thank you guys for being patient and helpful.
:Johnnie wrote:the other day i was driving, just as i usually would, I stopped at a gas station and got a snack and shut the car off. the car remained off for under 3 minutes, then i came out and tried to turn it on, nothing. it would crank and crank and crank forever, but never started. I thought it was the fuel pump, as i could no longer hear it's high pitch whine...
the whole day I was stuck there trying to turn it over and nothing happened. I let it sit for about 4-5 hours and started it up again, nothing. still couldn't hear the pump
another 5 hours and it worked. I heard the pump, cranks 5 times and started. when it started there was a terrible ticking sound at or around the injectors (changed 2 weeks ago) i was able to drive it home and when i got back the tick was gone and it ran fine. that was saturday, today is tuesday and it's been running fine since...
any ideas as to what may have happened? should I change anything or be nervous about anything in the future?
I only smelled fuel when it started up again and made the ticking noise. it just happened again. I listened really closely for the pump, and can't hear a thing anymore. I saw some people said this happened and they found that their alternator had a bad connection, I am kinda leading toward it being the fuel pump... and the pump has a brand new fusePapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I'm guessing you couldn't smell fuel or anything when you were cranking it right?
I've pulled the fuse and put it back in, and the fuse was perfect, and didn't help starting it up. I'll check the connections in a little while and see what it looks like. also, what is "jumping the fuse?"PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:yeah you might have a crappy fuel pump or a bad connection somewhere. Have you tried pulling the fuse and putting it back in?
I'd say you can try jumping the fuse, but its kinda risky with a fuel system. Although if you aren't blowing the fuse, you shouldn't have a short anywhere...
Learning from my car it's never a bad idea in checking the wires over time those cars run into all kinds of problem over the years. Like I have a wire issue that makes my AC pulley turn with the ac off and shoots my timing up lolPapaSmurf2k3 wrote:yeah you might have a crappy fuel pump or a bad connection somewhere. Have you tried pulling the fuse and putting it back in?
I'd say you can try jumping the fuse, but its kinda risky with a fuel system. Although if you aren't blowing the fuse, you shouldn't have a short anywhere...
Good question... I'm not sure the exact spec, but 50-60 ft lbs sounds about right in my head. I usually just go til it stops... don't overdo it though.turbotofu wrote:hey guys...pickin up a 240 soon and I have a question. When changing spark plugs, how many lbs of torque should I tighten them down to? This is on a stock KA24DE