I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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240pr06
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well the guy is selling the whole thing so i thought i would switch them out completely, why will that not work??? i just dont like the whole long antenna look and since i rarely use the radio it wont be up often, thanks


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PapaSmurf2k3
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yeah, it should work just fine. You know you can manually raise your antenna up if the power is broken right? Just pull it up by hand... that's what I do on the off occasion (maybe 1x a year?) that I use the radio.

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PyR0NiAk
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My turn for a newb question. If you turn up your boost on an SR do you need to have your ecu re-tuned? I was just wondering if it would be safe to take my SR and turn it up to 10 lbs or would it cause issues?

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justinedible4
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Hello once again. 1) What is the difference between a hicas rear subframe and a non-hicas rear subframe? I know the hicas is on one but not the other but what are the other differences?2) Would it be worth the time and effort to swap a hicas s13 rear subframe with a non-hicas s13 rear subframe? Or it would be better to just buy the hicas eliminator kit from say tomei for $170?3) If anyone knows of anyone that has done a write-up for either of these processes then that would be greatly appreciated.Thank you guys for being patient and helpful.

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PyR0NiAk
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PyR0NiAk wrote:My turn for a newb question. If you turn up your boost on an SR do you need to have your ecu re-tuned? I was just wondering if it would be safe to take my SR and turn it up to 10 lbs or would it cause issues?
anyone??

1993240sxbuilder
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Okay, i recently got my license. I don't have a car yet but i'm looking. I know i want an s13 but i'm not sure about specs. I'm almost sure that there are 2 different engines in the s13s. The ka24e and the ka24de. Correct me if I'm wrong. I believe the de starts after 91. I definitely want the de because of the wider power curve. I plan on building a drift car so any advice on different trims and years would be great. Thanks

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PapaSmurf2k3
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PyR0NiAk wrote:
anyone??
you might be able to get away with a lb or so, but I'd get a re-tune or add some octane booster or something... I'm not 100% sure though, you might want to try asking in the SR forum.

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PyR0NiAk
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aside from the engines, your choice is between hatchback and coupe. You also have a choice between bumpers. The 89s and 90s had the pignose bumper with the ka24e. The 91-94 had the chouki bumper with the . Your other big option, (which really isn't so big) is the SE and the non-SE. SE's generally had the rubber spoiler which seems to cause the trunk to rust up, along with different wheels.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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1993240sxbuilder wrote:Okay, i recently got my license. I don't have a car yet but i'm looking. I know i want an s13 but i'm not sure about specs. I'm almost sure that there are 2 different engines in the s13s. The ka24e and the ka24de. Correct me if I'm wrong. I believe the de starts after 91. I definitely want the de because of the wider power curve. I plan on building a drift car so any advice on different trims and years would be great. Thanks
I'm pretty sure there is a thread dedicated to that (all 240's), but here is your basic breakdown for what you are asking about89-90 240: has KA24E (single overhead cam), also called "pignose".91-94 240 (INCLUDING 91!!): Has KA24DE (dual overhead cam). 94 model offered ONLY in convertible, and convertibles ONLY came with automatics. If you find one with a 5 speed, its been swapped in.

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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quick question about conical lug nuts... are those usually the kind oem's go with? because im looking at a set of wheel that are requiring conical lugs; just wanted to kno if i can use regular aftermarket lugs like titek or muteki because it dosent state if they are conical or not. Im looking at a set of conical nuts on ebay and the picture looks like a regular lug to me...

i kind of searched and got the answer myself, anyone with the same question read this from tirerack Proper Lug Nuts or Lug Bolts: http://www.tirerack.com/wheels...d=102
Modified by Scuffed_ChukiCoupe at 2:39 AM 6/23/2009

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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PyR0NiAk your sig is hilarious lol i hope my 24e doesnt conk out on me 4 laughin at that.

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PyR0NiAk
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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe wrote:PyR0NiAk your sig is hilarious lol i hope my 24e doesnt conk out on me 4 laughin at that.
LOL Thanks. It went from the engine bay to the hoist, and straight to the metal scrap bin. The engine was pretty horrible. Someone didn't think it was necessary to dilute their antifreeze, and also thought that 1 tire burnouts were cool.

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justinedible4
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justinedible4 wrote:Hello once again. 1) What is the difference between a hicas rear subframe and a non-hicas rear subframe? I know the hicas is on one but not the other but what are the other differences?2) Would it be worth the time and effort to swap a hicas s13 rear subframe with a non-hicas s13 rear subframe? Or it would be better to just buy the hicas eliminator kit from say tomei for $170?3) If anyone knows of anyone that has done a write-up for either of these processes then that would be greatly appreciated.Thank you guys for being patient and helpful.
help please!

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PyR0NiAk
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Johnnie
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the other day i was driving, just as i usually would, I stopped at a gas station and got a snack and shut the car off. the car remained off for under 3 minutes, then i came out and tried to turn it on, nothing. it would crank and crank and crank forever, but never started. I thought it was the fuel pump, as i could no longer hear it's high pitch whine...

the whole day I was stuck there trying to turn it over and nothing happened. I let it sit for about 4-5 hours and started it up again, nothing. still couldn't hear the pump

another 5 hours and it worked. I heard the pump, cranks 5 times and started. when it started there was a terrible ticking sound at or around the injectors (changed 2 weeks ago) i was able to drive it home and when i got back the tick was gone and it ran fine. that was saturday, today is tuesday and it's been running fine since...

any ideas as to what may have happened? should I change anything or be nervous about anything in the future?

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needfaster240
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Johnnie wrote:the other day i was driving, just as i usually would, I stopped at a gas station and got a snack and shut the car off. the car remained off for under 3 minutes, then i came out and tried to turn it on, nothing. it would crank and crank and crank forever, but never started. I thought it was the fuel pump, as i could no longer hear it's high pitch whine...

the whole day I was stuck there trying to turn it over and nothing happened. I let it sit for about 4-5 hours and started it up again, nothing. still couldn't hear the pump

another 5 hours and it worked. I heard the pump, cranks 5 times and started. when it started there was a terrible ticking sound at or around the injectors (changed 2 weeks ago) i was able to drive it home and when i got back the tick was gone and it ran fine. that was saturday, today is tuesday and it's been running fine since...

any ideas as to what may have happened? should I change anything or be nervous about anything in the future?
:

i had the same problem in mine in december. it happened once. hasnt happened since. i was having alternator issues at the same time. found no codes in ecu and everything checkout ok. towed it home and checked it out the next morning and started fine. and has ever since. i did a q &a around pages 58-68. you might wanna check into it. i have put around 10,000 miles since. some of the diagnostic guys were leaning towards the alternator though. hope this helps
Modified by needfaster240 at 9:00 PM 6/23/2009

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I'm guessing you couldn't smell fuel or anything when you were cranking it right?

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mycocobean
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Anyone ever deal with theese guys?

http://jdmconnection.ca

Scam or not?

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PyR0NiAk
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You trying to buy an entire car? What are you trying to import?

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Johnnie
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I'm guessing you couldn't smell fuel or anything when you were cranking it right?
I only smelled fuel when it started up again and made the ticking noise. it just happened again. I listened really closely for the pump, and can't hear a thing anymore. I saw some people said this happened and they found that their alternator had a bad connection, I am kinda leading toward it being the fuel pump... and the pump has a brand new fuse
Modified by Johnnie at 10:44 PM 6/23/2009

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PapaSmurf2k3
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yeah you might have a crappy fuel pump or a bad connection somewhere. Have you tried pulling the fuse and putting it back in?

I'd say you can try jumping the fuse, but its kinda risky with a fuel system. Although if you aren't blowing the fuse, you shouldn't have a short anywhere...

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Sushibandito
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Any help from other s13 owners with the Type X wing? Mine is legit (I can tell the difference) and was previously installed on my old hatch which was a little rusty and is now replaced with a rust free one. The old one didn't quite seem to have a clean looking seal when it was bolted down and I'm wondering if it was where the old bolt holes were... The very back edge of the supports was about 1/2 inch away from the edge of the hatch. Does it need to be totally flush with the back edge to fit perfectly?Anyone have pictures they can share of theirs to show me where it needs to be mounted for a show-quality fitment?

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Johnnie
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:yeah you might have a crappy fuel pump or a bad connection somewhere. Have you tried pulling the fuse and putting it back in?

I'd say you can try jumping the fuse, but its kinda risky with a fuel system. Although if you aren't blowing the fuse, you shouldn't have a short anywhere...
I've pulled the fuse and put it back in, and the fuse was perfect, and didn't help starting it up. I'll check the connections in a little while and see what it looks like. also, what is "jumping the fuse?"

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mastermindspr04
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:yeah you might have a crappy fuel pump or a bad connection somewhere. Have you tried pulling the fuse and putting it back in?

I'd say you can try jumping the fuse, but its kinda risky with a fuel system. Although if you aren't blowing the fuse, you shouldn't have a short anywhere...
Learning from my car it's never a bad idea in checking the wires over time those cars run into all kinds of problem over the years. Like I have a wire issue that makes my AC pulley turn with the ac off and shoots my timing up lol

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mycocobean
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Yeah, entire car. Just wanted to know if their reliable.

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PyR0NiAk
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no clue... most people just convert their american car... import costs are usually quite a bit... If you want a Silvia, buy a 240sx and convert the front-end.

turbotofu
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hey guys...pickin up a 240 soon and I have a question. When changing spark plugs, how many lbs of torque should I tighten them down to? This is on a stock KA24DE

chris 91
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okay so i recently got some 18's to put on my car with some low profile tires. but when i went to put them on in the front the tire was pretty much touching the suspension.

so my question is what to do in order to fix this?

i have heard a lot about the coilovers and not too familiar with these so i am wondering if this would help solve the problem?

Thanks!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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turbotofu wrote:hey guys...pickin up a 240 soon and I have a question. When changing spark plugs, how many lbs of torque should I tighten them down to? This is on a stock KA24DE
Good question... I'm not sure the exact spec, but 50-60 ft lbs sounds about right in my head. I usually just go til it stops... don't overdo it though.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Soo, is it too big vertically? Or is it hitting the actual shank on the suspension? If its hitting the shank part (not the spring perch or anything), then you probably have either obnoxiously wide wheels, or horrible, horrible offsets.


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