I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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AZ89two4Tsx
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Yes, but I hear the KA is geared slightly different.


g-via
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the difference in redline makes no difference?

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mastermindspr04
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Hello everyone

ok a couple of weeks ago I had my Mitsubishi distributor replaced by nissan since I didn't have the time to do it myself and needed it done quick before I moved from Ohio to South Carolina. Since the distributor was replaced the idle jumped from around 1100 to 1400/1500 rpm ( 1100 STILL WAS TOO HIGH FOR MY TASTE JUST DIDN'T HAVE THE TIME TO DIAGNOSE THAT ISSUE THINK TIMING WAS THROW OFF). On cold starts my ka24e tries to die or idles around 400 to 500 rpm before giving it some extra throttle then it's steady around 1500 rpm. ka24e has around 175,000 on the motor.

I was wondering if my air to fuel ratio is way off and could it be a dieing fuel pump? Any other possible ideas or ways to test to get a answer myself?

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AZ89two4Tsx
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Your idle is that high? Wow, my sohc idles at a constant 500rpm.

Idk what the problem could be, but that's definitely not normal.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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g-via wrote:the difference in redline makes no difference?
no

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JoseBronx
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My ac work but it blows out warm air and I dont see a r134 sticker.

and my stereo is aftermarket, the previous owner had replaced the OG speakers also and they are connected to a amp.

thanks

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mastermindspr04
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Since the distributor was replaced the idle jumped from around 1100 to 1400/1500 rpm ( 1100 STILL WAS TOO HIGH FOR MY TASTE JUST DIDN'T HAVE THE TIME TO DIAGNOSE THAT ISSUE THINK TIMING WAS THROW OFF). On cold starts my ka24e tries to die or idles around 400 to 500 rpm before giving it some extra throttle then it's steady around 1500 rpm. ka24e has around 175,000 on the motor.

I was wondering if my air to fuel ratio is way off and could it be a dieing fuel pump? Any other possible ideas or ways to test to get a answer myself?

Well does anyone know any other site to where I can discuss these issues besides being criticized about how my car and still get don't get any ideas of the problem.

I know that's not normal the stock idle is 750 rpm. Can some one help

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mastermindspr04 wrote:
Well does anyone know any other site to where I can discuss these issues besides being criticized about how my car and still get don't get any ideas of the problem.

I know that's not normal the stock idle is 750 rpm. Can some one help
If you are going to have an attitude about it, then no, I'm not going to help. Jesus man, its been 1 day... give it some time. Maybe if you did a SEARCH you would find some helpful answers... that is written on the very first page of this thread, with directions.

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mastermindspr04
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I'm sorry PapaSurf2k3 been alot going on and my 240 been my outlet

I do some research and wondering could it be my tps and was wondering if there are any pic to show where the idle screw is located because my dumb behind notice the tps sensor connector was knocked loose.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mastermindspr04 wrote:I'm sorry PapaSurf2k3 been alot going on and my 240 been my outlet

I do some research and wondering could it be my tps and was wondering if there are any pic to show where the idle screw is located because my dumb behind notice the tps sensor connector was knocked loose.
I'm not TOO familiar with the KA-E, but your TPS shouldn't have that much control over your idle. It will lower it maybe 100 RPM with it unplugged. I think there is an idle adjustment writeup on http://www.240sxtech.com if not, I know I saw someone that just did a writeup on it. You also might want to check out the factory service manual... there is surely a picture in there. A link to factory service manuals is in my sig. You can download it for free.


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mastermindspr04
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Actually when I disconnected the TPS fully it jumped my idle up to 1800 pretty weird and I notice that I can a wire almost stripped near my egr system (that disconnected) and when i taped it up and moved it clear my MAF started to suck more air since I have home made short ram intake it kicked my idle up as well. you can tell my MAF started to suck more because of the hissing sound through the metal piping in my short ram started to hiss even louder.

question what is an sig still a newbie to the terms ha ha.
Modified by mastermindspr04 at 7:55 PM 6/17/2009

MAF_ia
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Is there a thread with just pictures of modded/cleanest/best looking s13 coupes? Ive seen threads for cleanest s13s 14s and 15s but I was wondering if there was one for just COUPES?

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dahveed
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my rear passenger brake is all f***ed. it locked up completely on me a few days ago =-[i'll need to buy a rotor+pad, right? how easy is it to change the thing?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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mastermindspr04 wrote:
question what is an sig still a newbie to the terms ha ha.

Modified by mastermindspr04 at 7:55 PM 6/17/2009
sig=signatureIf you go to my first post on this page (86), you'll see that there is a picture and a link under my post. That's the signature!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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MAF_ia wrote: Is there a thread with just pictures of modded/cleanest/best looking s13 coupes? Ive seen threads for cleanest s13s 14s and 15s but I was wondering if there was one for just COUPES?
Yeah, there is a "coupes check-in" thread in 240sx gen... should turn up with a simple search.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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dahveed wrote:my rear passenger brake is all f***ed. it locked up completely on me a few days ago =-[i'll need to buy a rotor+pad, right? how easy is it to change the thing?
You are going to definitely need a caliper. You will also PROBABLY need a rotor. Chances are it heated up, warped, or wore way down.

If it were me, I'd buy a loaded caliper (comes with pads), and a rotor. Brakes are pretty easy, and straightforward, although you may have to use a hammer

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mastermindspr04
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ok from my understanding on a ka24e the idle adjustment screw is on the left side of the intake and you would be facing it if you stand facing the engine on the passenger side fender that has a slit for a screw driver.

another question since I have a shot ram intake on my ka24e is there anything that would make my MAF spike to suck in more air because I ran into a issue while wiggling some wire in the egr system area and it made it make a louder hissing sound I believe it was sucking in more air because of the increased sound but in the process made my idle jump up as well. hard out here for a college grad my KA need some wire work and maybe some new vacc line. But hay I ended up doing a 17.5 3 months ago in the quarter is that bad or good fora stock KA.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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That is kinda high for a stock KA... you should be lower 16s, upper 15s.

And for the other stuff... remember, the MAF doesn't "Suck" the air in... the engine does. The MAF just meters it. What could have happened is you wiggled a wire, which could have either changed your air fuel ratio, or timing, which caused the car to idle up... wiring problems are a b**** man, I have a bunch of my own. You can check for vac leaks by spraying starting fluid around suspect areas... if the car idles up, you have a vacuum leak there.

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mastermindspr04
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Ok and the question about the position of the idle adjust screw is correct if your facing the passenger side fender you should be able to look right at it.

Ok about the quarter mile time in the 17.5 I was wondering why I would only top out in third. I have a serious lack of power. Yea wiring is an issues unless your making big bucks and can rewire the whole car.

I have another 240shell with just a ka in it. I'm trying to get settled down here where I moved to so I can do a complete chassis swap( well learn how to with some help ain't a mechanic yet) since my current shell has cancer issues from front to back on the rails and my truck is rusting out. I love 240sx got the shell for 360bucks.

honan
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Hey guys I need a little help. I live in California and I am getting a 1990 240sx this weekend. This will be my 1st project car and i'd like to start drifting, and currently it just has KA24E. I'd like to get around 250hp out of it however living in cali the smog check presents a problem. I would like to just do an SR20DET swap and go from there, but if I cant then what can I do with the stock motor? should I just have it rebuilt and install turbo? What can i expect from either build? I'm also thinking about getting smog checked then swapping and not worrying about it till next smog.thx for the help in advance

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PyR0NiAk
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honan wrote:Hey guys I need a little help. I live in California and I am getting a 1990 240sx this weekend. This will be my 1st project car and i'd like to start drifting, and currently it just has KA24E. I'd like to get around 250hp out of it however living in cali the smog check presents a problem. I would like to just do an SR20DET swap and go from there, but if I cant then what can I do with the stock motor? should I just have it rebuilt and install turbo? What can i expect from either build? I'm also thinking about getting smog checked then swapping and not worrying about it till next smog.thx for the help in advance
SR20 would be my route, which is what I'm doing right NOW in my 90 hb... Some people like to turbo KAs but that will require a complete rebuild, and of course, the turbo... Read around on the forums, specifically the KA and the SR RWD forums. You should find most info you need there. 250 hp from an SR isn't hard to reach though

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mastermindspr04
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Well you better take care of that aluminum block on that sr ha ha ha I plan on doing a ka-t setup myself and I live in columbia sc. Plus you can turbo a KA on stock internals and possibly have around a 250+ hp with around 7 to 10 pounds of boost if I'm correct (if I'm wrong please correct me ha ha). It's all on you because you have the option of a sr20 setup an CA18 setup and if your lucky and have alot of money a RB20 I've researched that its a pain.

Well I found the idle screw on my KA and dropped my idle down its between 900-1200 rpm still high but runs alittle smoother in 90+ degree weather. I believe when I had Nissan install my distributor before I moved to SC I think they didn't time my distributor and that maybe my idle problem. I would try and re-time it but my engine bay is way to hot out here to mess around with and I can't handle this heat yet. I also sprayed my short ram intake vacuum lines with starter fluid and no idle jumping issues any other vacuum lines I should check. I wonder what else could be the culprit of my idle issues I'm kinda stuck at what else I should check.

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PyR0NiAk
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mastermindspr04 wrote:Well you better take care of that aluminum block on that sr ha ha ha I plan on doing a ka-t setup myself and I live in columbia sc. Plus you can turbo a KA on stock internals and possibly have around a 250+ hp with around 7 to 10 pounds of boost if I'm correct (if I'm wrong please correct me ha ha). It's all on you because you have the option of a sr20 setup an CA18 setup and if your lucky and have alot of money a RB20 I've researched that its a pain.

Well I found the idle screw on my KA and dropped my idle down its between 900-1200 rpm still high but runs alittle smoother in 90+ degree weather. I believe when I had Nissan install my distributor before I moved to SC I think they didn't time my distributor and that maybe my idle problem. I would try and re-time it but my engine bay is way to hot out here to mess around with and I can't handle this heat yet. I also sprayed my short ram intake vacuum lines with starter fluid and no idle jumping issues any other vacuum lines I should check. I wonder what else could be the culprit of my idle issues I'm kinda stuck at what else I should check.
UMM WTF?!?!? Dude, a KA is not designed to handle a turbo on stock internals... Take your horrible advice elsewhere.. You also left out the RB25 which comes stock with approx 250 hp

Also, are you seriously looking at an aluminum block as a bad thing? Most performance engines have aluminum blocks... Cast iron = heavy as s***...

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lonely_coupe
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can anyone tell me where is the cheapest place to buy new valve stems for my sportmax 002s? not sure if there are certain specs I should be looking for a what??...

/n00b

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PyR0NiAk
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never heard of anything having "special" valve stems... Go to about any tire shop and they should change them for about $6-$8 a piece...

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mastermindspr04
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Well not trying to argue with you at all but there is a write on here about a ka-t on stock internals doing 285 soooo..... maybe you should read more and open ya mind before you call advice horrible. plus I'm not about to list all the possible engines that can be used its called examples

Instead of being all SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20

here is one link take the time and read a write up that's what I do

http://www.240sx.org/links/ins...x.htm

so say sorry

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mastermindspr04
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Anyways another issue I wanted to address I'm hearing a whine coming from my fuel pump while driving could this be a sign of it dying? I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet either.*************************************************************side note cast iron maybe heavy but strong like a tank and I've also checked out KA-T.org because myself was debating over an sr20. Off that site there's a guy featured having a heavy cast iron block that's boosting 700+ hp aluminum is subject to blow easier that my opinion.
Modified by mastermindspr04 at 9:01 PM 6/18/2009

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PyR0NiAk
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mastermindspr04 wrote:Well not trying to argue with you at all but there is a write on here about a ka-t on stock internals doing 285 soooo..... maybe you should read more and open ya mind before you call advice horrible. plus I'm not about to list all the possible engines that can be used its called examples

Instead of being all SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20 SR20

here is one link take the time and read a write up that's what I do

http://www.240sx.org/links/ins...x.htm

so say sorry
First, I'm not going to say sorry to you. Just because an engine can make that horsepower on stock internals, doesn't mean you should do it. That article says nothing about months of driving it around with those modifications, so there is no reliability testing. Friend of mine had a civic pushing 320hp to the front wheels on stock internals... He, obviously, blew it up after about 3 months. And the reason that I recommended an SR20 is it's an easy swap. The rb25 was mentioned because it creates a stock 250hp... Instantly has his hp goal and plenty of people around with knowledge to share on how to do the swap.
mastermindspr04 wrote:Anyways another issue I wanted to address I'm hearing a whine coming from my fuel pump while driving could this be a sign of it dying? I haven't replaced the fuel filter yet either.*************************************************************side note cast iron maybe heavy but strong like a tank and I've also checked out KA-T.org because myself was debating over an sr20. Off that site there's a guy featured having a heavy cast iron block that's boosting 700+ hp aluminum is subject to blow easier that my opinion.

Modified by mastermindspr04 at 9:01 PM 6/18/2009
Sounds like your fuel pump is trying to give up on you. Drive it on a low tank much? Also, why would you not change your fuel filter? Should be one of the first things you do when you start having fuel delivery issues. It's located front passenger side near the firewall.

As far as cast iron making 700hp. How about the LS1s making 1000+ hp?

I bet you're one of these guys that thinks carbon fiber turns a car into a death trap too right?

Modified by PyR0NiAk at 12:17 AM 6/19/2009
Modified by PyR0NiAk at 12:19 AM 6/19/2009

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PapaSmurf2k3
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There are many documented cases of boosted stock KA's making 230-250hp for years. The weak point is the pistons- they can't handle any detonation. If your tune is good and you don't push it too much, you're fine.

Guys- lets not make this into an SR vs KA thread.

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PyR0NiAk
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:There are many documented cases of boosted stock KA's making 230-250hp for years. The weak point is the pistons- they can't handle any detonation. If your tune is good and you don't push it too much, you're fine.

Guys- lets not make this into an SR vs KA thread.
Wasn't trying to down the KA as much as I was trying to say that it's bad advice to try to tell someone to just bolt on a turbo and go with it.


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