its pretty damn tough to put brakes on wrong... so chances are you need some spacers... don't forget longer wheel studs while you are at it.odmoht wrote:i am in need of some help.i just finished putting my j30 front calipers on and i put my rims on then i noticed that my rims and calipers were touching literally...i thought the j30 calipers could clear stock oem rims...i would assume they would clear my rims which are ssr reverse mesh 15x6.5 +8.do i need spacers? or did i put them in wrong o.0any help is appreciated!
What color smoke? What does it smell like? What is the idle at? Does it jump around, or is it low and just stay there?Johnnie wrote:in addition to my last question, i just changed the injectors, it runs better, smoked a bit at first out the exhaust, then ran better...still a low idle, and stinks like crazyanyone have any ideas?
white smoke, smells like intense carbon (nothing like exhaust regularly does), idles at around 600, then jumps up to 900, then down around 400, then when i tap the accelerator it goes down further, then up again depending on how much pressure i put to the pedal.it's never consistent, but it never idles more than 900rpm.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:What color smoke? What does it smell like? What is the idle at? Does it jump around, or is it low and just stay there?
i seafoamed it today, changed the oil, and cleaned out the carbon gunk in the idle air control valve. that thing was stuck for sure and definitely causing problems with the idle. so that's better, but it still stinks like carbon...PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:are you consuming any coolant? You should pull your plugs and see what they look like. Look for vacuum leaks... if everything checks out, pull your Idle Air Control valve and give it a good cleaning.
Honestly... there is someone here that will say "either way, you will be more or less better off"Chrisq0904 wrote:I tried searching but couldnt find anything on my question... Im getting ready to do a swap and i was planning on doing an rb20 swap and someone told me to just go for the sr20 since the 240 was built around the sr20. So i was wondering which one would be the better swap and would give me less of a hassle all around?
-Chris
check your plugs, clean them if they are fouled...Johnnie wrote:
i seafoamed it today, changed the oil, and cleaned out the carbon gunk in the idle air control valve. that thing was stuck for sure and definitely causing problems with the idle. so that's better, but it still stinks like carbon...
i'm gonna have it sniffed again monday and see if he can hook it to the computer too.anything else i should do?
Ok thanks just needed a second opinion, i guess ill just you the money to get a fast spooling turbo.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Honestly... there is someone here that will say "either way, you will be more or less better off"
...but honestly, you are better off with the SR... I can't count how many times someone has asked me some obscure RB question to which I have NO anwser..
most likely... it will also be WAY hotter than your other brakes.dahveed wrote:so, my passenger side right brake smells like burning after driving, and a weird noise occurs only when i'm in motion. does this mean that the caliper is seizing up? and my rim is extremely dirty, lol.
yarrr. i can feel the heat just by standing next to it lol.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
most likely... it will also be WAY hotter than your other brakes.
if they have built in studs, you don't need to extend your stock ones... so what if your wheels only have 4 holes?odmoht wrote:ok soo...im gettin 15mm spacers and they have built in studs.my wheels only have 4 holes , would i need the replace my original studs for extended ones? 50mm or 60mm ?im
If everything stated there is correct, especially the mileage, and all the parts are in good condition, yeah, that's a good deal. Most pay much more than that.chris 91 wrote: Is this a fair price? Just checking before i make a mistake from the beginning lol.Thanks!
k thanks. my original motor right now has like 178,xxx miles on it. So i was thinking it wont last much longer so why not get it before its too late lol. My friends are all like motor heads and could help me. And also my father-in-law had a 240 that did this swap and if i ran into any problems he could also help me.AZ89two4Tsx wrote:
If everything stated there is correct, especially the mileage, and all the parts are in good condition, yeah, that's a good deal. Most pay much more than that.
Ask them if its worth it when you are taking down cars that cost 3-6x as much.chris 91 wrote:
My sis and mom are saying it is not worth it
nah not too smart when it comes to mechanic stuff lol. but i got several friends that are very familiar with mechanic stuff. and if all else fails my father-in-law could always help me (of course at a price, but i got some extra money.)AZ89two4Tsx wrote:I wish I had an esssssarrrrr in my first/current car (one in my sig). Your lucky, but hopefully you know how to put it in. Good luck.
Yeah they are saying just to sell my car and get a car that is already manual and has a better motor. but its just not that easy for me. i like my car A LOT lol. i mean i got like 8 grand right now and got a job that pays $10 an hour so i def can afford it. just easier said then done i guess.PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Ask them if its worth it when you are taking down cars that cost 3-6x as much.
I would say... it depends on what shape the engine really is in. Compression testing included. I got my SR swap for $3000, $2000 for the engine and transmission (like yours as far as milage) and it compression tested just fine. then $1000 for a BUNCH of extra stuff, (FMIC, ECU, BOV, Garrett turbo, Downpipe, Turbo timer, boost controller, etc). Basically it sounds like a realistic in-the-ball-park price for a decent engine. You should have an intercooler of some sort in there though, perhaps a stock side-mount?chris 91 wrote:WANTING to do a engine swap lol. Really big newbie here so just checking before i even think about buying this thing.This is what he is advertising:
90-93 JDM SR20DET S13 RED TOP ENGINE for a price tag of $1,900.00
SPECS:
Donor Vehicle: JDM 1991-1993 S13 Silvia, 180SXMileage: 25k-45k milesDisplacement: 1998ccValve train: DOHC, 16 Valves, Chain driven cam sprocketsHorsepower: 205 HP @ 6000 RPMTorque: 203 LBS-FT @ 4000 RPMTurbo: Yes, T25Ignition: DirectCompression: 8.5:1Bore: 86.0 mmStroke: 86.0 mmInjectors: 370ccCompressor: 0.80A/R Compressor, Garrett T25 Turbo, 0.64A/R ExhaustOther Features: High-port head
INCLUDED PARTS:
Computer (ECU)5spd RWD Transmission100% Complete Engine- Complete Block- Complete Head- Intake Manifold- T25 Garrett Turbocharger- UNCUT Engine Wiring Harness- Sensors- Cam Angle Sensor- Turbo Manifold- Fuel Rail- Injectors- Throttle Body- Alternator- Starter- Coil Pack
Is this a fair price? Just checking before i make a mistake from the beginning lol.Thanks!